Triple Thimble Necklace Tutorial

Well, I couldn't fool you with what was nobigdill in the video.  Every single person guessed right!  I love that. Melissa Allen is the winner of the Neck Adornment!

We've got a busy week ahead of us here at Magnolia Manor.  I'm switching out a couple of my kids with a couple of my sister's kids, and everyone is thrilled about it.  I'm grateful they've got cousins their age and that they actually know each other.  We also have a 3-day scriptural reenactment that is taking place and I've got costumes I'm madly sewing.  I keep telling myself that they're going to be worn for 10 minutes and they don't have to be perfect, but I'm also really good at ignoring myself ;).

Meanwhile, I have been meaning to do this tutorial for over a year!  I even went back through my thousands of photos and I already had the photos taken.  I saw this idea on Modcloth, but couldn't bring myself to pay what they were charging for ho-hum thimbles (plus, they're no longer sold anymore). 

Photo credit: Modcloth

So what do we do?  We make it ourselves! 

I knew I could find some neat, vintage, all silver thimbles, so I went to town on ebay.  I usually try to stay away from ebay, because I get suckered into bidding more than I would really want to pay, but I was also making them for my little sister and my mom.  I still got suckered, and ended up with a whole bunch.  

Perhaps I'll put some in my poor, stagnant etsy shop for those that just want to buy them already made ;).  A few times I had to buy the whole lot for just one thimble I wanted, but I put a budget on how much I wanted to spend for each one, so I didn't really overpay.  Too much.  You just have to be patient and trust that even though the thimble you wanted got away, there will always be another thimble.  There's an analogy in that somewhere.  

Something to note as you're buying your thimbles (or rummaging through thrift shops or your mom's stash) is the size of each thimble, because you'll want three different sizes.  Buy one and then decide what size you'd like for your others.  I just used my Dremel tool to make each hole, and instead of doing just one hole in the top like the ones on Modcloth, I did two holes so the thimble hangs straight.  Each thimble is different and some were so thin and soft that I almost drilled through the counter (not really) and others took several minutes to make one hole.  So, be patient in drilling the holes.

What I found works best is to make a small hole first, and then move the Dremel around the hole to enlarge it to the size of your chain.  I put the entire chain through, but you could also use jewelry making supplies to put a small rod (is that what they're called?) and bend loops on each side.

I used a sterling silver ball chain in a 1.5mm diameter size.  I bought it in one continuous strand on Etsy (the shop I used is no longer in business, but there are lots out there) and made three separate necklaces, but you may want to attach them all together using a link chain and just one clasp.  I will frequently wear just one thimble, so I don't mind that they're three separate necklaces.  You just cut the chain with some wire cutters to the desired length.  Make sure your chain comes with the clasp pieces to link them together.

There you have it!  It's one of my favorite pieces of jewelry because it's classic and represents one of my passions.  

Have a happy weekend!

Abbey Road Top Tutorial

I've had some emails about this tutorial I thought I re-posted after I made a guest appearance, but couldn't find it either, so here she be!  This shirt has been one of Divine's favorites and it's so simple that I feel like I could whip up a few for all the girls around here in no time.  Another option is to do the waistband a contrasting color, or a v-neck, or even a slight scoop neck in the back (just widen the neckline in the back). Oh, the fun you can have! ;)

✂ ✂ ✂

I'm so pleased to be here at Family Ever After and honored that Rach considers me a "sewlebrity".  I was originally going to make this for myself, but then I thought it would waste less fabric if I made it for one of my baby dills and it didn't turn out, but now I'm jealous of her top!  This is a simple, flowy top that works nicely with stripes because of the tie around the waist that goes the opposite direction, but you can really use any knit, or even contrasting colors or patterns.  

⚉I started with a t-shirt that fits Divine pretty closely, so I had a good idea of how each feature was going to fit.  I cut it a bit wider in the neck to create a boat-neck, slanted down for the sleeves, and folded the t-shirt up a bit to crop it since I knew I would be adding a tie at the waist for more length.

⚉ Stitch along shoulder and side seams (1/2") with right sides together, leaving about 2 inches open on one side for the vent.  If you don't have a serger, just use a slight zig-zag stitch.  
⚉Cut the tie out as pictured (it looks like a giant, open faced hotdog bun when you lay it out), making it as long as you prefer.  I cut mine about 8" wide which translates to being about 3 1/2 inches since you fold it in half and take off another inch for seam allowance.

⚉Turn the shirt right side out and pin tie around waist, right sides together, with the tie center lined up with the side seam without the vent.  Fold the vent seam allowances in toward the opposite side of the shirt.  Stitch around the hem of the shirt.

⚉Pull tie away from the shirt and then fold it up, in half, again right sides together.  Stitch just around the tie ends.

⚉Turn tie right side out and pin the open edge along the bottom of the shirt and stitch in place, making sure you catch the tie on the other side. Stitch around the vent as well.

Here's a closer look at the vent.  

⚉Next fold under neck 1/2" and stitch in place.  I used my double needle to give it more of a professional look.  If you've never sewn with one, go here for more details.  To create the hem of the sleeve you will need to fold down the corner tip first followed by the sides.  Continue around the entire sleeve and stitch in place.  *Optional: I also sewed around the perimeter of the tie, but it's not necessary, it just keeps everything in place a little bit better.

As I was fitting this on Divine, she didn't want to take it off.  She said it was the most comfortable thing she has ever worn.

I believe her.

I think I need to make one for myself now!

Thanks for having me, Rach!

OUT Chapter 4: Me!

What amazing guests I've had! I feel like I should be extending OUT another month with all the inspiration instead of shutting the b●ok.  Also, I feel like I need to start quilting now, an urge that has never had fruits before (thank you very much, Astrid!) I was just going through the Flickr group and was so impressed with what you guys have been doing!  There's even another version of Stuck!  Load your photos if you haven't yet so I can close this out with your projects on Monday.

I had so many books I wanted to do, but as usual, my ambitiousness was cut short.  I settled on ●ne Red Dot, a pop-up book that I keep under lock and key with the rest of my pop-up books.  Just kidding.  Sort of.  

Divine was the recipient since the other 4 girls just had something made for them.  Each page of the book has some elaborate p●p-up structure with one red dot somewhere hidden.  So we put a dot on her toes.

and of course one GIANT red ● dot on her dress!

The fabric is Prince Charming Snail Scallop and I just used the fabric upside down (don't tell the snails!●) and followed the scallops along the bottom, adding baby piping.

★Tip: H●w to put piping around scallops ★

 ① Trace and cut scallops along outer edge of hem or neckline. 

② Cut piping down to seam allowance size, so you can just line it up along the edge of the fabric and clip every 1/2" or so. 

③ Pin along edge of scallops.

④ It's easiest to use a foot that has a ● groove for the piping to follow, or a zipper foot that allows you to sew right along the cord of the piping. 

⑤ Once your piping is sewn on, sew on the facing (right sides together) but have the garment side facing up so you can follow the stitching line you've already created. 

⑥ I find it's easiest to adjust the thread length to 2mm or even 1.5mm which allows to you turn curves more easily.  Also, keep your needle in down position so you can pivot at the points of the scallops.

It's a self drafted pattern that took some adjusting along the neckline ● to get the front and back scallops lined up just how I wanted them.

The dots?  Just covered buttons!  I love those giant ones.  I show you how t● use them here.

And yes, that thread hanging from ● the hem is driving me crazy.

Such a fun book that we like to pull out every once in a while to ● enjoy!  You can see someone else who wanted to get in on the action.

Pop-up books are a bit magical, don't you think●?  Do you have any favorites?

Don't forget to add your ●nce Upon a Thread photos to the Flickr group this weekend!

Happy weekend and we'll see YOU on Monday! ●

Friday Feet: Machine Blind Hem

Have I told you lately how much I love my sewing machine feet?  It's kind of like a closet full of shoes.  You wear different ones depending on what you plan to do that day, and it makes the job so much easier.  Of course you could run on the treadmill in high heels and you could go play on the beach in knee high boots, but having the right footwear really does make a difference.  If you do a fair amount of sewing, I would recommend investing in a few of the basic feet.  Today I'm going to share with you one of my absolute favorites.  I probably use it more than my zipper foot or my buttonhole foot: my beloved blindstitch foot.

I use it a lot for edgestitching, but I wanted to show you the intended use today: a machine blind hem.  When would you use this type of hemming?  It works best on a straight hem (a circle skirt or an A-line skirt would be difficult).  Especially when it's a gathered skirt and you don't want to take the time to hand stitch it, but you also don't want the stitches to show.

Start by pressing the hem up 1/2"

Fold again for the completed hem length and press.

Fold the hem back towards the front, leaving 1/4" hanging over the crease and pin in place.

All sewing machines have the blindstitch under the basic stitches, regardless of how fancy your machine is.  It's a solid, basic stitch that looks like this:

Now lets take a look at the blindhem foot.  What makes it different is the guiding bar the goes right down the center like a knife cutting a slice of cake (see how I worked that in there?)  The needle is going to be jumping back and forth over it, taking little bites out of the fabric, so do not adjust the needle position (left or right).

What you can adjust is the stitch width.  The running stitch will be on the inner hem fold on the right.  The little "bites" of the zig zag will jump over the center bar and grab just a tiny bit of fabric from the right side of the hem that runs along the bar.  This should be a small amount that it's biting into.  If you do a sample (which I recommend), make it on the same fabric because a thicker fabric will need a wider length to make sure it grabs enough fabric, while something thin will need a narrower stitch to avoid too much thread showing through on the right side.

You can do this with a regular foot, but it's left up to you where you feed the fabric through instead of guiding it along the plate of the foot.  This is what it will look like when you finish (on the inside of the hem):

Unfold the hem and you can see it a bit better on the wrong side.

Turn over and press the crease out and....what....where are your stitches?  Are you blind?  Sorry, couldn't resist that one.  They should be pretty much invisible, as they ought to.  Look at you now, getting all professional!

Have a wonderful weekend!

ps I don't normally post on weekends, but I'm loving this instagram thing!  (Maybe too much?)

pps it's the last week to put your name in the hat for the Tinkerbell DVD set.

Stamp Your Own Pattern Tutorial

Once I got an email from a reader asking where to find boy fabric, as they were only able to find solids and stripes.  I was kind of at a loss of what to tell her because I really like solids and stripes.  Details of your sewing are more easily displayed with something simple, but recently I got a steal on a bunch of factory remnant solid, white knit.  I had plans of dying it different colors, since it's a really great quality knit.  But then I saw a couple of really cool stamps at Hobby Lobby and I when I remembered the fabric ink I had for my tags...well, the rest, as they say, is history.

Using the ink pad instead of just fabric paint provides the option of using stamps because it will show off all the fine detail of a rubber stamp instead of filling all the crevices with paint and making a blob of paint instead of an image.  I never got into making scrapbooks (I can't even bring myself to using it as it's own verb), but I feel like I'm breaking and entering into that world with the possibilities this opens up.

Growing up my dad had a big box of stamps that we all loved to play with.  He'd break them out for our homemade Valentine's that we would spend hours making.  It was like a treasure box, not neatly organized and categorized, just a bunch of wood mounted stamps all jumbled up, that we'd riffle through to find what we wanted.

Now I feel like my 5 yards of plain white knit won't be enough for all the ideas in my head!

Some tips:
★ Make sure your ink is for fabric.  You don't want to go to all this trouble only to find out it will wash out or fade.  VersaCraft is widely available online and in craft stores.
★ If your pattern pieces are really big, you may want to draw the outline of each piece so you don't over-stamp and waste ink (and energy!)  Don't cut out your pieces, because some of your images will be half on the piece and half off which would be harder to do if it's already cut out.
★ Go random or go precise.  On this project I spaced the image evenly, but I've started another project that is completely random and both are fun.
★ Don't rock the stamp.  Press down firmly, but evenly.  If you rock it (in the literal sense ;) you'll get the edges of the wood or get a blurry image.
★ Let the ink dry and then press (just up and down motion, no side to side) with a hot dry iron.
★ This will work on an natural, evenly woven or knit fabric, but you could get different effects using a rougher weave like some linen.  If you're unsure, just try a sample and run it through the wash before committing to an entire cut of beloved fabric.

Admit it, you're already thinking of fabric you have that will work, aren't you?

You can bet your ink pad that there will be more stamping to come.  What about you, are your wheels turning?