Victoria Beckham x Estee Lauder Makeup Collection - London Look

Fashion maven Victoria Beckham has teamed up with Estee Lauder to release a capsule collection of limited edition products that allow you to recreate her signature look; bronzed gleaming skin, smoky eyes and nude lips.

The collection comes in super-sleek black and gold Art Deco style packaging and I have to say it reminds me very much of Lauder's ultra-luxe Tom Ford beauty line, not just in appearance but also formula, as well as pricing. Be prepared to fork out S$70 for a single shadow and $102 for the Morning Aura Illuminating Creme, but you can also expect very smooth textures and great quality.

The "London Look" is probably the most wearable and universally flattering of the entire collection, and features a sparkly brown smoky eye, soft caramel nude lips, and her famed dewy, "sweaty" skin. I really liked the super smooth dual-ended eye kajal in Vanille and Black Saffron, but I have to say the formula is so soft that the beige pencil tip broke right off the first time I tried to use it. 

I do still love how easily they glide right on and smudge out, but just be aware this is a kajal, and it is meant for smudging. This formula will not set and become budge-proof. Also, if you're on a tighter budget and just looking for key items to get from the collection, this is the thing I would skip since you can more easily replicate this using cheaper alternatives.

As for the Eye Shadows and Eye Ink, I have to say I loved what I tried. Bitter Clove is that gorgeous brown with bronze-gold flecks, and it has a semi-creamy texture that almost has a bit of bounce to it when I run my brush back and forth across the surface with some pressure.

I did get a few questions from people saying they were not able to get a very opaque coverage with this, but I did not have problems building color up with a synthetic pencil brush. I just buff it on in a windscreen wiper motion and keep building until I get the intensity I want. It's partly the type of brush, and also taking a little time to layer the color. This type of creamy-glittery pigments don't always play nice with all types of brush bristles.

A couple more tips:

• Apply this with your finger to get more pay-off, then buff out the edges with a brush
• To bring out maximum sparkle as a final step, mist a soft buffing brush slightly with water and gently buff over the surface of your finished eye look to "polish" and bring out the shine even more

The Eye Ink in Black Myrrh looks like a shadow and can be used as such, but it's really meant to be a wet/dry eyeliner. It's not completely black; more a soft charcoal shade with a slight sheen. I used it dry to deepen the outer corners of my eyes in the look below, but also dampened my brush to apply it along my lash line as smoky liner.

Another fun thing to check out are the Eye Foils.This are liquid sparklers that smooth on and then set to a budge proof texture-less finish. You can apply it a bit more concentrated the way I did, or just sheer it out and pat it over your entire lid as a last step after eye shadow.

The shade I got to test is the paler shade, Blonde Gold. I have not seen the other shade but I would definitely suggest the paler one over the deeper if you want one shade that works well with any eye look, dark or light.

Eye look done with Bitter Clove, Black Myrrh, and Eye Foil in Blonde Gold (inner corners)

As for the lipstick, I'll say it's a great shade and a beautiful semi-sheer formula that feels and looks really pretty on the lips, but maybe not mind-blowing enough to justify $76 if that's way out of your comfort zone. If you don't usually go for lipsticks from lines like Tom Ford or Cle de Peau Beaute, this might feel like a bit too much.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery PowerFoil Mask

I've been a long-time user of Estee Lauder's Advanced Night Repair Serum (I bought my first bottle in college about 15 years ago) and to this day it is still one of the best "work-horse" antioxidant serums I have ever used.

I am one of those weird people who will use this both at night and also in the day, under sunblock for extra free-radical protection. I even apply it over my arms and decolletage if I know I am going to be out in the sun and I'm worried that sunblock will not be enough. And I believe my skin's better off for it.

When I heard Lauder had come up with a mask that is infused with nearly half a bottle's worth of ChronoluxCB™, Advanced Night Repair Serum's key complex, my first thought was not about whether it was going to be good. I seldom say this of many brands but I have rarely ever been disappointed by Lauder skincare. My first thought was - good lord, how much is it going to cost? 

Well it's actually not TOO bad. If you consider the amount you would pay for a single facial session, this is quite reasonable. A 4-pack which will give you a month of once-weekly uses, will cost you SG$120, which is $30 per treatment. The 8 pack is $216 ($27 per treatment). Not your typical drugstore dollar-mask price, but then this mask isn't exactly the typical drugstore mask either.

Besides the concentration of vitamin and anti-inflammatory loaded repair extracts, the delivery mechanism for this mask is also quite different. It is a split-face mask with a bottom and top half, so you can get a better fit, but what's special is (obviously from my top image) the fact that the cotton mask sheet is layered with a piece of special foil which is designed to help lock the moisture in, and help ingredients penetrate 25 times faster than a traditional cotton sheet mask.

The foil also helps the fiber mask to conform and fit to the face a bit better in my experience.

When you open a packet, you will see a translucent plastic separator sheet, and the two halves of the dual-layer mask within. DO NOT REMOVE THE SILVER FOIL FROM THE COTTON!

There is a lot of moisture and product, so if you want to get your money's worth, rub any remaining liquid onto your neck and down your chest as well. The amazing thing for me was the absorption process. I'm not a huge fan of typical sheet masks because they are drippy and messy, and only a fraction of the product gets absorbed. But with these, I know the product is not evaporating or drying up from exposure to air, and after 10 minutes, you can tell from how much drier the cotton sheets are that the liquid has absorbed into your skin.

The best proof is how smooth and plump my skin feels after use. Fine lines (and those pesky beginning nasolabial lines) disappear and there is just a smooth glow to the face.

You're supposed to use these at night before bed so you can just rub the remaining liquid into your skin and leave it to work overnight, but I'm going to be naughty and say you can use this before a special occasion. You need to rinse your face slightly to take away any of the residual tackiness from all the moisture-binding ingredients, but makeup goes on beautifully afterward.

The Lunar New Year period is coming up, and if my skin is going to look bouncy and radiant, I want it to be seen!

Just for your information, the mask smells exactly like the usual Advanced Night Repair serum. And I do recommend trying a sample of the serum on your entire face (if you have never used this range) before investing in a full pack of the mask - just to be sure you are not allergic to any ingredients.

Recommended for: all skin types that need smoothing and radiance, but especially for those with first-signs of aging

Ingredients list for the PowerFoil masks, for those who are worried about allergies etc.

Eye Contouring Basics (Estee Lauder New Dimension Shape + Sculpt Eye Kit Demo)

We keep talking about facial contouring, but here in Asia, something that often gets forgotten is eye contouring. Ways to make your eyes look more deep set, or to lift and shape hooded eyes that might look a bit more puffy or flat. 

The basics are very simple. It's not rocket science. Most people just don't really think about it. Those of us who wear eye shadows probably already do some of it on a daily basis, but whether you are using shadows, or want a "no makeup makeup" look, the general steps are the same. 

Estee Lauder launched their New Dimension range this month in Singapore, including a firming/shaping Expert Serum (SGD$220) to help tighten and lift your jaw line and your cheek contours, and a rather exciting "Liquid Tape" ($110), a gel which you apply around edges of your face or around areas with fine lines. You literally feel it tighten more and more as it dries, and it will smooth and even out your face temporarily.

The line also includes a contouring cream duo, the Shape + Sculpt Face Kit ($68), but I'll talk about the Shape + Sculpt Eye Kit ( $60) today.

I will break the 3 shades down by their purpose.

1. Base/Primer
2. Contour
3. Highlight/Shimmer

I only number 2 and 3 in reverse because this is the order I personally apply them. You don't have to follow the same directions exactly.

 Demo:

The rule of thumb for contouring is NEVER put it in your "crease". Not everyone's crease is in the same perfect place, especially if you have mono lids or hooded lids. And as you get older, your crease sags as well. You should always be "FOLLOW THE HOLLOW". Feel with your finger for the part of your eye where your eyeball sinks into your socket bone. The deepest part is where you always apply your contour shade. (And where you blend those "crease shades" up to when working with eyeshadows.)

The instructions from Lauder are to apply the shimmer highlight to the inner cornrs, but I personally feel that doesn't suit everyone. Especially for women who have a fold of skin over the inner corners of their eyes, applying highlight there does nothing, and popping it in the center actually helps create a more sculpted 3-D look for the eye in that case.

The only thing you want to be careful about is this might not work if you have oily lids. If you tend to get creasing shadows through the day, leave the shimmer off the middle of the lid and use a pale shimmery champagne powder shadow instead.

To conclude, the concept of putting 3 products into a trio as an eye sculpting kit is new, but the theory behind eye contouring is not. You can in fact look for a primer, a matte tan shade, and a pale shimmer shade from any eye shadow range. This product is something I would suggest for those who:

• don't want a lot of color and obvious makeup around their lids, and prefer just liner and mascara/lashes
• have hooded or mono lids, or just want to emphasize their eye contours a bit, but have it look quite natural
• don't want to bother with searching for 2-3 separate products in the perfect shades and just want something that has been put together neatly in a portable trio for you

The key shade that makes the difference is the tan shade here, and it is matte and soft enough that unless you are very heavy-handed, it will look pretty much like you were born with those natural shadows. And it's not always easy to find. 

The only problem is if you have very tan or darker skin, because this shade will not be deep enough for you.

Estée Lauder Nutritious Vitality8™ Collection

Estee Lauder's Nutritious Vitality8™ Collection is inspired by Traditional Chinese Medicine, which is focused on achieving beauty through balance and equilibrium. By fighting free radicals, maintaining moisture levels, and calming/soothing the skin, the objective is to free skin up to perform all its natural repair and regeneration processes at peak levels.

The "8" in the name comes from 8 key things designed to help promote more radiance:

• Pomegranate
• Soapberry
• Mangosteen
• Berries
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin E
• Antioxidant booster
• Mineral water

The original Nutritious line contains Pomegranate extract, which is concentrated in antioxidants and other nutrition. I remember purchasing their very first product, an Energy Lotion which you splash on as a pre-serum to help your skincare work better.

The upgraded collection will include an Overnight Detox Concentrate serum, a Moisture Creme, and two new products that are really interesting:

The first is the new Radiant Dual-Phase Emulsion, a dual-phase liquid and creme that you have to shake up and pat on like a very light lotion. This is great for oilier skins, and also for a quick refresher if you don't want to weigh your skin down.

There's also the new Overnight Creme/Mask, whichis like the sleeping packs and sleeping masks we are so used to here in Asia. You can apply this over your skincare or on its own (if you have oily skin) to help promote radiant skin in the morning. The texture looks quite thick and fluffy, but it sinks right in and doesn't feel greasy or heavy on the skin.

The Nutritious Vitality8™ Collection launches July 2015 in Singapore, and prices start at SGD92 for the Emulsion and Cream, to SGD106 for the Mask, and SGD116 for the concentrate.

Estee Lauder Crescent White Skincare and Makeup Range

Estee Lauder has replaced it's previous whitening/brightening range Cyber White, with a new line called Crescent White.

Similar to the older range, this is formulated in Asia and primarily targeted at East Asian consumers, who prize fair, unblemished skin. Unlike the previous series however, this range is based on the same theory as bestselling Advanced Night Repair, and aims to support and harness the skin's own Circadian rhythm to repair and resist environmental aggressors which can cause uneven pigmentation and dullness.

According to Lauder's research, the skin pigmentation process has a definite Circadian (day/night) rhythm, and a day of being assaulted by UV, pollution, and other triggers rmelanin production, which peaks at night. Over time, these discolorations accumulate and can be hard to treat.

Whether you're into a fair or a tan look, I believe we all want even-toned skin because aside from lines and sagging, that's one of the biggest indicators of aging. And because a lot of so-called "whitening" products on the market aren't actually lightening, but actually simply contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents to help prevent further sun damage and allow the skin to heal itself, they are actually very worthwhile investments - no matter whether you prefer a tan look or not. (Hence my preference for Advanced Night Repair Whitening serum - sadly discontinued - over the original. I always felt it worked better!)

Crescent White

The new Crescent White range is not split into day and night products, despite the concept behind the line. Aside from the sunblock, BB cream and compact foundation, you don't have to worry about using separate things in the day and at night. The entire line contains active ingredients which are meant to address BOTH daytime protection needs, as well as night-time correction needs.

I'm not going into too much of the pseudo-science lingo and names because things like Light Cycle QD Complex, Quasi-Drug Anti-Inflammatory agents, or SIRT-Technology mean nothing to most people and are meant to sound impressive and scientific, but I always found unnecessarily confusing. Technically, "Quasi-drug" means "not really a drug", so those 2 words pretty much cancel each other out.

 It doesn't mean I don't believe the line does what it says though. I've used a lot of Lauder's serums over the years, and they are one of the premium lines that has given me consistently good results. I'll just say ignore all the mambo-jambo and remember that this line contains a lot of powerful plant-based antioxidants and anti-irritants like Baicalin and Sea Fern extract, which can help reduce and prevent the inflammatory response in skin which triggers melanin overproduction.

It also contains Molasses extract, a proprietary extract which is supposed to target and break up accumulated pigmentation in the skin, and help the skin to even itself out.

But traditionally, no whitening line I've used has been that great at treating existing discoloration quickly enough to see a noticeable difference within a few months, so I wouldn't get your hopes up. I would see the line as a great way to maintain and prevent further discoloration, and to accelerate your skin's own repair abilities so that it evens itself out slowly.

The Range:

The Crescent White Range consists of 7 products.

• Cleanser (SGD$58)
• Moisture Treatment Lotion (SGD$94)
• Spot Corrective Essence (SGD$168)
• Moisture Creme (SGD$114)
• UV Protector SPF50/PA++++ (SGD$86)
• BB Creme SPF50/PA++++ & Brightening Balm (SGD$92)
• Powder Makeup SPF25 (SGD$22 for compact / SGD$72 for powder refill)

But if you ask me what I'd focus on, here are my top recommendations from the line.

Estee Lauder Full Cycle Brightening Moisture Treatment Lotion

The Moisture Treatment Lotion is a gentle toning lotion which just feels so refreshing on the skin. This is meant as a skin-prep and softener to enhance the serum and moisturizer, but it also contains all the active ingredients in the line, and just feels (and smells) lovely to pat on. 

I would actually suggest decanting this into a small spray bottle and bringing it out with you for a refreshing mist in the middle of the day.

Estee Lauder Full Cycle Brightening Spot Correcting Essence

The core product in any skin range is usually their serum or essence, because this tends to contain the highest concentration of active ingredients. If you like the whole concept behind the Full Cycle Brightening range but have to focus your budget a little, then I would probably check out the Essence first and foremost. 

This is a very lightweight, non-siliconey feeling serum that sinks in and absorbs quickly. Great for all skin types, including the very oily.

Estee Lauder Full Cycle Brightening BB Creme and Brightening Balm

Now BB creams are a dime a dozen these days, but the reason I actually have been reaching for this particular product, aside from the fact that it contains an impressive SPF50 with PA++++, is that little pan of shimmering balm in the cap. It's become one of my favorite things for adding a subtle glow to the cheekbones. If you like creamy balm textures like NARS Multiple sticks or Tom Ford's Shade and Illuminate for adding glow without powderiness, you might just like this as much as me.

The BB creme itself is alright; the coverage is very light so it only evens out the skin but will not give you much coverage. But if that's all you need, and you like the glow the balm provides, then it's an ideal second layer of protection over your sunblock.

I do like the SPF50 UV Protector sun cream in the range as well. It's completely translucent and doesn't leave a cast or a film on the skin, so I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to those with oilier skins. I tend to stick with cheaper sunblocks on a daily basis, but if you are going to be out and exposed in the sun for awhile, I think it's always good to have a block which is souped up with extra antioxidants and anti-irritants, because no sunscreen gives you 100% protection, and this has a backup safety net of good stuff to help minimize problems when you can't avoid sun exposure.

And yes - I would layer both sunscreen and a BB creme with SPF, just for the safety net. It can be tempting to be lazy, but a typical layer of sunscreen or foundation is usually not thick enough for you to maximize the sun protection factor, so it's far better to have two layers (you're more likely to max out the SPF50 protection) than to rely on just one. 

Estee Lauder Little Black Primer for Lashes

Estee Lauder Little Black Primer for Lashes

Happy New Year!

I'm kicking off 2015 with a review and demo of Estee Lauder's new Little Black Primer. 

What it aims to be is a lash primer that can work 3 ways.

1. Tint: As a dark tint for light lashes
2. Amplify: As a base to create volume and length under your regular mascara
3. Set: As a protective top coat to set mascaras and make them more waterproof, more smudge-resistant and longer-wearing.

The concept is so simple and so logical that I'm actually surprised nobody came up with the idea before this. We always used those white lash primers before, and they're fine for bulking up lashes, but not everyone knows how to work with those, and if you're not careful, you end up with grey-looking strands where your mascara hasn't covered it completely.

So theoretically, this is an EXTREMELY interesting product. The only thing left is to see how well it performs on all 3 fronts.

So I tested it with a cheap (but good) drugstore mascara that I'm using daily. Nothing high-end, nothing waterproof.

The verdict?

1. As a tint/mascara - GOOD. I have black lashes, so I can't really tell you how good it would be as a lash tint. What I can say is that it doesn't look as black as true black mascaras do, but it looks really nice as a soft, hyper-natural mascara on its own for those who don't want dramatic lashes. I would wear it on its own any day.
2. As a lash primer - QUITE GOOD. This does lift and bulk up lashes. The water-resistant formula also helps to hold curl a bit longer. But you will have a bit of problems with clumping or thick twig-like tips, although I can't say this is a problem that is unique to the product as it happens with pretty much every primer. From a distance it does look fab. If people are going to look at you up-close, I think avoid lash primers in general unless you have a lot of time to comb out clumps.
3. As an overcoat - HIT AND MISS. It does do a pretty great job of making a non-waterproof mascara waterproof but like all other products, it is not magic and can't resist oil and grease. Also, if you try to build it on top of mascara, you WILL make your lashes look more clumpy than usual.

Tips for use:

• It builds quite nicely so you can wear two coats of this and just ditch regular mascara.
• For the most naturally glam look, apply regular mascara, and then apply this just to the lashes nearer the roots. This bulks up the base which is where it's most needed, doesn't make the tips clumpy, and should be able to give a bit of extra "hold" to your curled lashes.
• For best effect if you have straight downward-pointing lashes, finish with heated lash curlers as a last step. These are still the only tools I've tried that can make stubborn lashes hold their curl all day.

The Little Black Primer launches at all Lauder counters this month and retails at SGD40.

Quick Flawless Base Routine (using Make Up For Ever HD Foundation and Estee Lauder Maximum Coverage Foundation)

Before

After

Ok, I'm not saying I have a lot to cover. Neither do I have flawless skin, obviously. I have dry spots, some areas with obvious pores, some unevenness, old acne marks, and dark circles.

This is not a tutorial for covering serious acne (I always recommend you get that treated rather than covered) or scarring. It's just a quick way to look as flawless as possible, without caking up your face with lots of unnatural-looking makeup.

You want products that can give maximum pigmentation with minimal texture, so it still looks and feels like skin up close.

The products:

Unfortunately, in my experience, good "fake" real skin does not come cheap. But if you are doing this for your wedding or a special occasion, I think it's ok to consider a once-in-a-blue-moon splurge to feel really confident.

Make Up For Ever HD Foundation: The best balance between lightweight texture and high pigmentation. It sets into a real skin texture, so you get coverage but not that powdery, mask-like texture of matte foundations. A tiny bit goes a long way so this is an investment if you're willing to shell out. If you're lucky, you'll find a perfect match. I don't have one, so I have to mix 123 and 117 for a perfect match. Ouch.

Estee Lauder Double Wear Maximum Cover Camouflage Makeup: I don't use this as a foundation. I use it as a concealer because it's SO high coverage. I prefer it over some other products because it lasts a lot better but doesn't feel TOO dry on the under-eye area for my combi/dry skin. If you're on the market for a good liquid/cream concealer, I highly suggest checking this out because it comes in a huge 30ml tube and lasts FOREVER.

Sigma F05 brush: You can use any duo-fiber stippling brush, but I find this works a lot faster and blends the foundation out a lot more flawlessly for that really airbrushed finish.

MAC Fix+: Or any alcohol-free toner or setting spray

Step 1: I pump out a small amount of foundation on the back of my hand and then lightly dip just the tips of the brush hairs into it. You want the tips of the hairs to have a small bit of product, so that the fibers are still pretty much separated from each other. Avoid wetting chunks of fiber so they clump together.

Step 2: Stipple the brush onto your face lightly to distribute the foundation and then very lightly buff the tips of the brush into your face in circular motions. Some people like to just dab-dab-dab, but I find the swirling helps to "airbrush" away your pores. Just don't be too rough if you have dry, flaky skin as this can make it worse.

Step 3: Apply dabs of concealer on dark marks. In general, I like to use my finger to pat and blend undereye concealer. For spots, I like to dot onto the spot directly, and then use the F05 brush to stipple lightly. This once again "air-brushes" the area without looking like you have a patch of heavy product.

Areas to look out for include:

• Inner corners of eyes
• Outer corners of eyes
• Uneven areas
• Spots
• Veins around the nostrils
• Corners of the mouth

Step 4: Set the T-zone. I don't powder all over at this point. I just use a transparent setting powder like Silica, Make Up For Ever HD, MAC Prep + Prime, etc on a sponge wedge and lightly press (not rub!) onto the T-zone, chin and sides of the nose where the pores are more obvious.

P.S. I also like to do my brows at this point. It's not important; just a personal preference.

Step 5: Adding some glow back into the skin so you look fresh and dewy. I apply some highlighter onto cheekbones and brow bones.

Step 6: Finish with a hint of pink blush along the temples. The softer and looser your brush, the more natural your blush will look.

And that's it! You can move on to the rest of your makeup!

10 Favorite Lipsticks (March 2011)

I've always been obsessed with lipstick. Nothing in the world feels quite the same a gliding a creamy bullet of rich color over your lips.

Here are some of my current favorites.

Group 1

1. Bourjois Sweet Kiss Shine #59 Rose Etincelant
Sweet sheer candy pink with gold highlights makes this a soft peach/nude on the lips (below) that's flattering if you have medium to dark skin.

2. Estee Lauder Pure Color Crystal Lipstick #301 Crystal Baby


3. Sephora Lip Attitude #G20
A more chocolate-y version of Crystal Baby, this is a sheer glossy nude-brown lipstick which feels and looks almost like a gloss. Perfect as a base color to mute redness when wearing sheer tinted gloss. Best thing? It's so inexpensive!

4. MAC Lustre Lipstick in Fresh Brew
A slightly deeper version of Sephora #G20, but I love it because it can look like a nice caramel-y true-brown on lighter skins, and a non-chalky nude on darker-toned complexions. Definitely check this out if you are NC40 and deeper, and can't find nice nudes.

5. Maybelline Watershine Pure Lipstick #B24
A pale pink-based nude which is the pinker and more opaque counterpart of Crystal Baby, but at a fraction of the price. If you like milky nude-pinks with a glossy sheen, this is a great one to try.

___
Group 2

1. Sephora Lip Attitude Star #S22
A flattering, ultra-shimmery caramel, I bought this because it looked so much like a Dior Addict Shine lipstick. It's rich, creamy, sheer, and feels just as luxurious as a high-end lip color.

2. MAC Pro Longwear Lipcreme in Till Tomorrow
Bruised-lip color which stays put for a few hours with normal activity. I'll always find kiss-proof lipsticks fascinating because of Revlon Colorstay, but then there are no Revlon equivalents for this shade where I am.

3. Rimmel Moisture Renew Lipstick #180 Vintage Pink
This quirky and beautiful dusty lavender-pink always makes me think of a scene in Anne Rice's Pandora, where an ancient vampire sits anonymously in a cafe, writing the story of her life wearing a "purple" lipstick. (I somehow always imagined it to be a mauve that is atypical but subtle, rather than dark and dramatic.) On light to medium skin, this is a medium tone, but if you are about NC40 onwards, this will be a lovely cool-toned nude pink for you.

4. MAC Amplified Lipstick in Up The Amp
One more purple. And what a purple! It goes on more blue than the swatch above. This is the loud and attention-seeking rebel of the family. If you have golden or olive-toned skin, this purple looks sooo nice as statement lips, paired with minimal makeup.

5. L.A. Girl Lipstick in Dreamer
I mentioned this before in my Robin Blue nail polish post. This is a lovely, lovely black. I say so because it does not go on streaky or patchy, and is not stubbornly hard to even out (below). Wear this with any other shade you have to deepen it dramatically.



P.S. Some other favorites which I love but are either discontinued or a little easier to duplicate are:

1. MAC Syrup (dupe this with Urban Decay Rush or Etude LED lipstick #10)
2. Revlon Matte lipstick in Really Red
3. Lancome Color Fever Dewy Shine lipstick #258