Raiatea: heavenly island in the South Pacific

Raiatea means “faraway heaven,” and “sky with soft light,” and it’s easy to see why this South Pacific island was reported to be the legendary Captain James Cook’s favorite.  It’s a great place to visit if you want to get away from the beach crowd and explore off the beaten path.

Port of Uturoa with mountains in background

We docked early morning at Uturoa—one of the few South Pacific ports where cruise ships do not have to tender. In the distance we saw mighty Mt. Temehani, a revered mountain, thought to be the birthplace of the Polynesian god Oro. This mountain shelters a unique plant, the fragrant Tiare apetahi, a white gardenia-like flower shaped like an open hand with petals that open with a slight crackling sound at dawn. Legend says it’s the sound of a broken heart of a common woman who was not allowed to marry the son of the Tahitian king. The protected emblem of the island, this flower grows nowhere else on earth.



Tropical flowers glorify
the island.

Beautiful waterfalls can be seen in south Raiatea, and you can kayak on Faaroa River, gateway to the ocean and the only navigable river in Polynesia. With an abundance of flora such as wild hibiscus, bamboo groves, chestnut trees, and ginger flowers, the island is utopia for nature and garden lovers.
The second largest of Society Islands, after Tahiti, Raiatea is regarded as sacred, the center of Polynesian religion and culture more than 1,000 years ago. Historians say it’s likely that migrations to Hawaii, New Zealand, and other parts of East Polynesia originated from Raiatea. Because of its spiritual nature, marae (sacred rocks with inscriptions) scattered across the South Pacific, each contain a rock from the original marae on Raiatea.


Huts in Uturoa provide shade for shoppers.

You can visit one of these historical and cultural sites on the southeast coast. Taputauatea marae is a stone structures where priests and sailors offered sacrifices to the gods--and a place where people worked together to solve challenges of navigating South Pacific waters. Many enchanting legends still give the island an atmosphere of mystery.


Even large cruise ships must enter and leave the Raiatea lagoon
through narrow passages like this.

Although Raiatea has a population of more than 12,000, villages are tiny.  Shops and markets line a newly renovated waterfront area in Utoroa, the only town of any size on either Raiatea or its sister island Taha’a. Large cruise ships call here several times a week, which is an economic boon for the small towns.




Raiatea is a paradise for snorkeling or scuba diving

We learned that the islands of Raiatea and Taha’a are unique because both are enclosed by the same coral reef and may have once been one island. Even though Raiatea doesn’t have beaches, the lagoon is perfect for scuba diving and snorkeling with its coral gardens, caves, and drift diving in the passes. Surfing is also possible at the 10 passes that open from the ocean into the Raiatea-Taha’a Lagoon. Primitive motus (small islands) in the lagoon can be reached by boat, and picnickers or campers, both locals and visitors, often come for the day or weekend.

Camping on motus is a favorite getaway for locals and visitors.

If you’re looking for relaxation, beautiful scenery, or a great place to explore under water, Raiatea might just become your slice of heaven.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Chill out at the South Pacific island of Moorea

For our South Pacific cruise, we flew into Papeete,Tahiti, the only city in French Polynesia with an international airport, and the ship set sail during the night. Well, we only had 12 miles to go to Moorea, second most popular tourist attraction in the Society Islands.

Moorea is a laid-back South Sea island (think Bali Hai), but it has white-sand beaches not common on Tahiti. It’s a triangular-shaped island encircled by a protected lagoon  fringed by the blue ocean. Tourism is concentrated along the north coast around Papao (capital) and Hauru. Visitors love the relaxed ambience of the island and its inherent beauty. 




The breakers indicate location of the coral reef--inside is a
turquoise lagoon and beyond is the deep blue ocean.

A little background: The Territory of French Polynesia consists of five archipelagoes: Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, Tuamotu Islands, Austral Islands, and Gambier Islands—all under French administration. The cultures and traditions of each island group are generally specific to the home archipelago and island, yet modern transportation, education, and communication have resulted in an ongoing blending towards a national identity.



Jagged mountain peaks formed from volcanoes eons ago.

Moorea was first settled by Polynesians from islands to the west who arrived in canoes from South Asia over 1,000 years ago. Marae, stone rocks shaped like pyramids with carvings telling about sacrifices, provided ancient landmarks.

The first settlers from Europe arrived in the 18^th century.  Cook’s Bay is named for Captain James Cook, although he never visited the bay. Supposedly it is the place where he settled, but the guide on our snorkeling excursion said Cook actually  went  to Opunohu Bay. Still, it’s a scenic highlight.  After the French won the war with its sister island Tahiti, Moorea was considered part of French Polynesia.

 



Lush tropical landscapes with interior mountains are a hallmark of Moorea.

 

Our discovery begins on a slightly overcast morning, but the scenery is breathtaking from our balcony on the Oceania Marina. Jagged peaks, covered with lush greenery frame the deep blue of Opunohu Bay where the ship is docked. In addition to the dramatic volcanic mountains, which includes shark-toothed Mount Rotui and towereing Mount Tohivea, stories of Polynesian history and lore attract visitors to Moorea.

For our Snorkel and Stingray Safari we took the tender to shore, then boarded a catamaran and sailed the lagoon for almost an hour. We stopped at a four-foot deep sand bar inhabited by large stingrays for an encounter with these flattened mammals, that range up to three feet in diameter. It’s cool to stroke the soft skin of these fearless rays who are looking for a handout of fish. Just be careful not to get your hand underneath its mouth as it can suck in a finger or leave a mighty bruise on your arm. Also swimming in the water with the rays were a host of sand sharks.

Beautiful coral species make up the reef around Moorea.

Then we went snorkeling in the cool turquoise water. Because the currents were very strong at the reef, we stopped short in calmer water, although there was still enough current to keep us moving over many beautiful varieties of coral. The formations were mostly large, lumpy, and colorful. Some had crevices and bridges through which the fish swam. We saw many varieties of fish —blue, yellow, white, black, and a few striped—but no large schools of fish.

After 45 minutes of observing coral and fish, the catamaran headed back to the pier. Along the way we were served fresh tropical fruit--sweet pineapple, passion fruit, guava, kiwi, grapefruit, and papaya. What a treat!

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier 

 

Touring Bora Bora by truck

Circling Bora Bora, the most scenic of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, on a speedboat gave us a good overview of the volcanic landscape. And after checking out the lagoon’s beautiful coral and fish through our snorkels, we decided to explore this tropical island by land—on a covered open air truck.

Looking out at the lagoon of Bora Bora

 “Le Trucks,” as these vehicles are called, are a main means of transportation for locals, but those have no set schedules. Fortunately, our 3.5 hour tour did have a set itinerary that would get us back to the ship before happy hour.

Starting from Vaitape, the most populous town on the island (the population of Bora Bora is only about 8,000 people), we headed through the district of Fa’anui, stopping at the church there for pictures.  We stopped again at Fa’anui Bay, a great spot for photos of the two prominent mountains--Otemanu and Pahia. The truck continued on to the ancient ceremonial site of Fa’anui Marae, designated by an ancient carved boulder—and then on to see bunkers constructed by American GIs during World War II.

Creating beautiful pareos with intricate designs

Having noticed so many colorful pareos, the sarong-like cloths worn by locals, hanging in shops, we appreciated the opportunity to observe how these are created at Mama Ruta’s outdoor shop.  We watched a local craftsperson create a unique design on cotton cloth she had wet in water then folded and twisted. She dipped the wet fabric into several separate paint pots, each containing a different color. The art of creating a beautiful design comes in how the material is folded and dipped, a process that must be done quickly before the fabric dries.  When the design is completed, the pareo is spread out to dry in the sun.

Refreshing island fruits

Many of the pareos have the name of the island, Bora Bora spelled out. This is achieved by placing stencils on the fabric and allowing the sun to bleach out the words or to create new designs. The lightweight fabric is a local wardrobe mainstay because it can be twisted and crossed hundreds of ways into many garments. Our guide demonstrated how to make a skirt, dress, or jacket—worn by men as well as women. Then we sampled local fruits such as breadfruit, banana, coconut, grapefruit, and passion fruit, and I purchased a hand-painted pareo--wearable art--to take home.

Crabs scamper to retrieve flowers that are dragged into their holes

Flowers, mostly hibiscus, hung by each seat of the truck. Nice touch, I thought, not knowing that there was a purpose beyond decoration. At a sandy area, dozens of holes—homes for sand crabs—made walking around tricky. Told to throw the flowers on the ground, we did and watched in amazement as the voracious critters scurried out of their holes, grabbed the flowers (which were much bigger than they were), and dragged these prizes back into their holes.

Bora Bora has beautiful white sand beaches.

After going up the island’s only driveable hill, we stopped at a lookout point to take in splendid vistas. At Matira Beach, Bora Bora's most popular public beach, locals and visitors enjoyed swimming and snorkeling in the protected lagoon.



Sandy floor at Bloody Mary's restaurant and bar

Our final stop was Bloody Mary’s, a famous restaurant and bar visited by dozens of celebrities and sports stars, whose names are painted on signs out front. Inside, the floor is simply sand, so guests check their shoes and claim them again when leaving. The restaurant features a large open dining area and log seats at the bar. This well-known watering hole epitomizes South Pacific ambience, and it’s the perfect spot to savor at least one island drink.

Photos by Larry and Beverly  Burmeier

 



Bora Bora--paradise in the South Pacific



Our first look at the mountains of tropical Bora Bora

Bora Bora is everyone’s picture of a romantic South Pacific Island. Upon arrival by cruise ship, we see castle-like Mt. Otemanu jutting up into the sky. Green tropical slopes greet us as the ship docks just offshore of Vaitape, the island’s main settlement.

Bora Bora is an island in the Leeward group of Society Islands of French Polynesia in the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by a lagoon and barrier reef, Bora Bora’s landscape is dominated by two prominent peaks, Mt. Pahia and Mt. Otemanu (which has the highest point at 2,385 feet). These mountains are remnants of the extinct volcano which created the island, now an international tourist destination.


Bungalows over the water provide an excellent escape into paradise.

Between the peaks are valleys filled with 50 varieties of hibiscus blossoms in orange, white, yellow, pink, red, and more. Plentiful coconut trees, pineapple plants, and small but very sweet bananas grow on the main island and smaller islands called motus. White sand beaches and emerald waters, along with colorful fish and giant manta rays swimming among the coral gardens, attract visitors to this tropical paradise.

Dependent on tourism, the island is famous for its luxury resorts, some of which feature bungalows built on stilts over the water. Lagoon trips to snorkel, picnic on a private motu, cruise at sunset, or view the perimeter of the island by speedboat or motorized canoe, are very popular. There’s no public transportation, but you can rent cars or bicycles to get around. If you’re not in a hurry, try one of the trucks that the locals use—which run on island time.



Splashing along on our speedboat ride around Bora Bora

The island’s original name was Pora Pora, meaning “first born.” There is no B sound in Polynesian language, but early visitors misunderstood the pronunciation. Polynesians settled on the island in the 4^th century, and the famous explorer James Cook landed and mapped the island in 1770.  London missionaries arrived in 1820 and established Protestant churches, still the most prominent religion today.

After the Oceania Marina docked, Larry and I took the three-minute tender ride to shore and wandered around until time for our speed boat excursion circumnavigating the island. The front section of the boat had bench seats, but back where we sat were saddle seats that reminded us of riding a horse. As we circled Bora Bora, streams of water splashed beside the boat shining like sparklers in the sunlight. I got soaked when the jet boat captain opened up the throttle to give us an exhilarating ride.



Snorkeling at the coral garden in the lagoon was outstanding.

We stopped at a magnificent coral garden in the lagoon, one of the best snorkeling spots on the island. The reef teemed with colorful tropical fish flitting among dozens of coral species in the pleasant water. With sunlight gleaming, we were able to take many stunning photos of undersea life. Back on the boat, one guide entertained us with songs on his ukulele, while the other guide served a refreshing plate of tropical fruits.

I can't name all the fish, but they were really beautiful.

As the journey continued, the guide slowed down to point out a huge cannon on the side of Matira Point, a rusty remnant of America’s role in helping defend Bora Bora from the Japanese during WWII.

Nearby Matira Beach is Bora Bora's most famous public beach because of its long stretch of gleaming white sand as fine as powdered sugar. Palms swayed in the sea breeze as we stopped on a sandbar just off Matira Beach for a short swim before completing our boat ride around the island. It was a lovely way to view Bora Bora and left no doubt why visitors come to relax and rejuvenate among spectacular island scenery.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Snorkeling at the Society Islands in the South Pacific



Colorful fish swim around coral reefs in the Society Islands

When traveling, I enjoy water activities, so that made a trip to the South Pacific a no-brainer. With coral reefs surrounding most of the islands, and protected lagoons available for snorkeling, we were guaranteed to see beautiful natural formations and a good variety of fish.

Coral is found in variety of colors, shapes, and formations.

After arriving in Papeete, Tahiti by plane, we boarded the Oceania Marina for a 10-day cruise that took us to several of the Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, and Tuomoto Archipelago, where we visited two atolls (narrow strips of land surrounded by reefs).

These photos provide just a small sample of the outstanding opportunities we discovered to watch, enjoy, and record flora and fauna off the coasts of several Society Islands.  

Our first stop was Moorea, second most popular tourist attraction in the Society Islands.where we snorkeled in clear turquoise water with stingrays, sharks, and fish. No, they won’t hurt you, although if a ray slides up your back it could startle you. This heart-shaped island features dramatic interior mountains and lots of Polynesian history and lore.

Speedboat ride around Bora Bora

, we spent two days at Bora Bora, perhaps the best known of the Leeward group of Society Islands in French Polynesia. A major international tourist destination, the mountainous landscape, lush tropical vegetation, and beautiful beaches make Bora Bora  the ideal South Pacific island. We took a speed boat ride around the island before stopping to snorkel just short of the reef.

Fish were plentiful as we dove down wearing helmets.

The following day we did a helmet dive in a lagoon that is one of the most beautiful dive spots anywhere in the world. With the heavy helmet in place on my shoulders, I was able to wander along the bottom of the lagoon (about 10 feet deep) while breathing normally.  Fish swam so close we could actually reach out and touch them.

What a grand photo opportunity!

At Raitea, second largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti, we took a boat ride along the west coast of its sister island, Taha’a. These islands are unusual because they are enclosed by the same coral reef. Our boat stopped at an uninhabited motu (small island), from which we took moderate walk on a rocky path to the spot where we would

We could even touch soft coral and watch fish swim by.

enter the water and ride the current back to the boat (no swimming or paddling necessary).

Too many fish species for me to name!

Our guide plucked a hibiscus flower to rub
on masks.

It was called a “drift” snorkel, but the current was so strong that we moved very quickly through the water, trying our best not to bump into other people or catch a fin in the face. Since clearance over the coral was low and the channels narrow, we really had to pay attention to our surroundings to avoid getting tossed into sharp coral formations. Still, I was up for the challenge and made a second run through the coral reef.

Coral was incredibly beautiful in clear water.

The strong current carried us over the coral.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier