Take a gondola ride when in Venice

 
A visit to Venice, Italy isn’t complete without a gondola ride down the Grand Canal and a couple of side canals that substitute for streets.  So after spending a several hours walking around St. Mark’s Square (overrun with tourists and souvenir vendors on a Sunday afternoon), strolling through a maze of narrow alleys and streets to the famous Rialta Bridge (great photo opportunity), and bypassing long lines of people waiting to enter Doges Cathedral (admiring the outside architecture sufficed), we splurged for an evening on the water.

Gondola ride is the quintessential adventure in Venice.

My husband Larry and I shared our gondola—and a bottle of champagne—with a young couple from New York, skimming the water’s surface to a serenade of Italian love songs.  Romance filled the air as dark embers of a summer sun flickered into the shadows of night, softly illuminating the unmistakable architecture of Venice.

Goldolier paddling

Gondoliers dressed in red and white striped shirts deftly maneuvered their water crafts through the narrow canals with a single long-handled paddle.  

Wine adds to any experience!

Shops lining the water were mostly closed at this point, and the crowds had thinned noticeably.  Cool night breezes felt refreshing after our mid-afternoon wanderings in the August heat. 

Looking at the city from less-crowded evening waterways provided a different perspective from our earlier foray among the crowds of tourists. Two hour gondola tours may be booked with or without music, but I would miss those deep, smooth Italian vocals.

Venice is actually a series of 20 islands connected by bridges.  The city is built on supports placed in the ground and surrounded with mud that eventually becomes hard as concrete.  During the winter months, ample rains cause water to rise and flood the streets, so people wear hip-length rubber boots for sloshing through town.  When the water level is so high, boats are not able to pass under many bridges, so alternate route are taken. 

Gondolas ready to go in the Grand Canal

Still, Venetians take advantage of their watery situation.  Boat races are held on the first Sunday of each month, and fireworks celebrate construction of the Doges Cathedral every third week of the month.

These days the Italian government has banned all but the smallest cruise ships from central Venice. Cruise ships sail up the 2.5 mile Giudecca canal, before turning right to dock at the “Marittima” port on the western edge of Venice's historic center. You can walk from the cruise port exit to Piazzale Roma in about 20 minutes.

Skimming a small canal inVenice

Venice looks just like all those pictures you’ve seen of the city—ancient buildings on the water’s edge, water taxis churning a constant path from one point to another, and omnipresent shops and bridges.  Only as we sailed away from Venice on our cruise ship and observed the city from a more distant vantage point, did we begin to fully appreciate its beauty and unique character.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Hotel Metropole, oldest in Bellagio, Italy, still charms visitors

Although it’s possible to drive all the way to Bellagio, a village on a promontory jutting into Lake Como in Italy, it’s quicker, safer, and more lovely to take a ferry. At the town of Mennagio on the western bank of Lake Como, we boarded the large ferry that transports cars as well as people and crowded in with all the other passengers for our first introduction to the magical city that inspired glitzy Las Vegas.

View of Lake Como from our room at Hotel Metropole

Even though we had a map and GPS, finding the hotel we had booked online wasn’t easy—until we did find it, and then the location was surprisingly perfect. From the balcony of our room, we breathed in fresh Alpine air and inhaled the magnificent views of glimmering water sheltered by surrounding mountains and hills. As the evening sun set, we watched ferry boats come and go from our lakeside balcony and toasted our romantic getaway with a glass of Chardonnay purchased just minutes before in the nearby historic shopping district.

Hotel Metropole has aged beautifully.

Hotel Metropole, an elegant pink-toned monolithic building on the waterfront, dates to 1721, making it the oldest in Bellagio. As usually happens, the town of Bellagio developed on the lake, and until 1900 most houses overlooked the harbor. Originally a house, the hotel later became an inn and shelter for travelers coming to what was a remote area. A photograph from 1871 (electric lights were not installed until 1888) shows a beautiful building with a covered porch overlooking Lake Como.

The hotel changed hands many times but had an English owner during the mid-1990s who sparked its growth to an international clientele before selling the hotel to an Italian entrepreneur. Although the hotel has been renovated several times, during our visit a few years ago, we saw a mix of traditional and modern designs that are well-suited to Americans’ tastes (it is non-smoking, has a breakfast buffet, and includes Wi-Fi), At that time the original three-person elevator was still the only way to get to upper floors unless you take the stairs.

Gardens in the village

Original plaster ceilings and Liberty-style glass doors of the panoramic dining hall remained, and old floor tiles of local Pognana stone on the terrace overlooking the lake were kept in place. We also enjoyed other original features include decorative balustrades and floral gratings from the hotel’s early days. Hotel Metropole recently underwent additional restoration. All rooms are individually air conditioned, have private facilities, television, minibar, safe, and hairdryer.

Situated in the center of Bellagio, it is the only hotel in the village with a direct view onto Lake Como, and that includes all rooms. At the roof-top garden guests lounge, read, or sunbathe while enjoying incredible views of the shimmering lake.

View from roof top garden

Outside, purchase an ice cream or coffee at the gelateria in front, or dine at award-winning Terrazca, the adjacent restaurant where hotel guests receive a discount on meals in addition to enjoying a panorama of lake, rolling, hills, mountains, and sky.

Very Italian walkway to shops and restaurants

The hotel is located at Piazza Mazzini, Bellagio’s historic center.  From the square you’ll see characteristic Italian steps and narrow winding streets that lead to shops, galleries, and restaurants and a tourist office where you can book boat rides on the lake and other excursions. Its excellent location and an impressive combination of Mediterranean and Alpine scenery make Hotel Metropole one of the most charming places to stay in Bellagio.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

An iconic hike in the Italian Dolomites

Driving from Corvara to Tre Cime hike

Tre Cime di Lavarado was our final hike in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy, one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. Although there are many trails throughout the mountains, Tre Cime is one of the must-do hikes for capable explorers.

After warming up with shorter hikes around Lake Braies and Cinque Torri (both very scenic), we finished our time in this beautiful mountain range on a trail that circumnavigates the Three Peaks that symbolize L’Alta Pusteria Valley. Known as Cima Grande, Cima Occidentale, and Cime Piccola, these colossal mountains provide ample panoramic views on the iconic 6.2-mile loop.

Breathtaking beauty!

Our driver met us very early in the morning at Hotel La Perla, where we spent five nights. Located in Corvara in the Alta Badia region this cute town lies in the shadow of the Dolomites.

Colorful flowers contrasted with the stark winding roads as we drove through the foothills of the mountains, paths punctuated with tiny villages along the way. White clouds and blue sky provided amazing background for the jagged limestone mountains.

Jagged peaks in the mountain range

After an hour and a half drive we arrived at Refuge Auronzo, the starting point for our hike. A wide, relatively flat trail connects Rifugio Auronzo with Rifugio Lavaredo. Within an hour of walking, the valley in front of Tre Cime opened up, and the north side of the Three Peaks came into view. What a sight to see all three majestic mountains side by side, an imposing UNESCO World Heritage Site. With their sharp-cornered ridges and dramatic peaks, the Dolomites are unlike any other mountain range we have seen.

A perfect place for lunch

We stopped to eat our packed lunch at a hut that was dwarfed beneath the imposing peaks. A short walk from there took us to a spot that proved perfect for capturing the scenery. 

First look at Tre Cime

At this point, Larry decided to hike back to the starting point with Gerhard, our driver and guide. Beverly and our friend Deb continued on the hike around Tre Cime with our other guide.

The three of us walked down into the valley and followed a narrow trail that provided excellent views of the three peaks and more. 

Some hiking challenges

Our trekking poles came in handy as we navigated rocks and other challenges on the trail. As is often the case, it’s hard to really describe the immensity and ruggedness of the terrain.

A surprising sight at Tre Cime

Pink, purple, and blue flowers dotted the late summer landscape and softened the bare peaks that stretched towards the clouds. We even saw cows grazing on green grass that magnified the beauty of the land. We felt truly blessed for the opportunity be outside soaking in the God-made beauty of this route.

Limestone skirts the peaks

As if that wasn’t enough awesomeness, our guide led us off the path to a stunning lake, a hidden gem that he knew about from years of hiking this popular path. The day was absolutely perfect for photos with the sun in an excellent position to provide clear reflections in the water. We stopped for a brief snack and short rest while admiring the view.

A perfect day for our hike!

But there was more, our guide led us to a second lake, and again the sunshine gave us beautiful reflections. We walked further in the meadow to a third lake before heading back to the trail and and uphill trek to finish the hike in the parking area near where we started.

The second lake also had great reflections.

It was an unforgettable adventure that we’ll always remember when we think of the Italian Dolomites.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Hiking in the Dolomite Mountains of Italy

First, I must say that the Dolomites are among the most beautiful mountains in the world, and any visit near the border with Austria must include several days exploring this remarkable region. If you are reasonably fit, I highly recommend going into the mountain range and hiking; there are numerous trails suitable for a variety of skill levels. You gain an appreciation for the towering peaks that can only be achieved when standing in their midst.

LakeBraies

We walked around gleaming Lake Braies.

Our first hike after arriving in Corvara, a village in the Alta Badia region, was at Lake Braies. Known as the “Pearl of the Dolomites,” Lake Braies is one of the deepest lakes in the Bolzan province. It is located in the Fanes-Senes-Braise Nature Park, a heavily visited area for both tourists and locals.

Lovely view as we walked around the lake

A 2.25-mile hiking trail circumvents the popular lake. Although the day we were there was somewhat overcast, we were still able to see mountain reflections (primarily of the Croda del Becco which stands at more than 9,000 feet)  in the emerald green lake. Along the way we observed an ancient church, colorful blooming flowers, and multiple limestone formations.

A strange sight to see!

We were pleasantly surprised to see cows roaming freely in the area, especially as they came down to the lake to drink or rested beside the lake, apparently unfazed by groups of humans wandering around.

CinqueTorri

Diving up the mountain to the starting point of the hike

The next day we headed out of the Tyrol region for a trek around Cinque Torri. Even though the weather was foggy and windy, we were excited to head higher up the mountains. To get to the trailhead at Rigufio degli Scoiattoli we took a chair lift above 7,000 feet. From there we hiked for 4.5 miles while circling the peaks that make up Cinque Torri.

Larry, Beverly, and Deb

This hike is named for massive rock formations composed of a combination of boulders, towers, and peaks. Located in the Nuvolau mountain group within the northern Dolomite region, the five towers are named (from largest to smallest) Torri Grande, Torri Seconda, Torri Terza, Torri Quarta, and Torri Quinta

Outstanding scenery along the trail

When the fog lifted, the scenery was magnificent. Paths wound through meadows bathed in dark and light shades of green sprinkled with a beautiful assortment of pink and white flowers. Some trails require challenging treks over rocks and boulders, but there are also meadow paths that follow a more level route for those who aren’t so nimble.

A beautiful day for a mountain hike!

During World War I Austro-Hungarian soldiers fought fierce battles among these steep mountain walls. Rugged landscapes and terrible winter weather were a huge hindrance, and more people died from the harsh conditions than died from battles.

Passo Falzarego--does it get any more magnificent than this?

The trail ended at Passo Falzarego, an enormous rock formation that sprawled over a hill making a breathtakingly perfect picture spot. So my friend Deb and I climbed to a small ledge so our guide could snap the photo. It was a fitting way to celebrate this amazing adventure in the Dolomites.

Beverly and Deb pose on the rocks

I’ll cover our hike to Tre Cime di Lavarado in an upcoming post!

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

Travels from 2019 in pictures

Key West, Florida boasts the southernmest point in the United States--just 90 miles from Cuba.

As 2019 comes to an end, it’s fitting to ta ke time to look back at some of the travel adventures Larry and I were fortunate to have throughout 2019. We traveled internationally to countries including United Arab Emirates, Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and Italy. Here are photos highlighting those countries.

We also explored new areas in southwestern U.S. and revisited some of our favorite national parks and scenic sites. I'll share photos from those adventures in another post.

The following photos highlight a few of our special adventures from the first half of 2019.

One of the most spectacular buildings in the world, inside and outside, is the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. In addition to plenty of glitz inside, the structure features 82 domes and five pillars.

We visited may Biblical sites such as the baptismal rea of the Jordan River in Israel 

Construction of the pyramids of Giza, Egypt was a massive
and complex engineering feat at the time.

Petra, Jordan is an extraordinary relic, a city carved directly into mountainous rocks.

Even in foggy weather, the craggy cliffs and quint houses along the Almalfi Coast of Italy are a stunning sight.

Colorful Burano, Italy is all about lace--but it's not too frilly

Imagine being a fisherman from the small island of Burano, Italy, near Venice, many centuries ago. You return late at night after a hard day dragging nets through ocean waves, and when you leave your boat to walk home, all the houses look the same.

Colorful buildings are a hallmark of Burano, Italy.

Local residents (i.e. wives and families) found a solution, so their men would return to the right home: Paint the buildings in vivid, can’t-miss colors of red, yellow, orange, green, purple, and pink. If two families shared the same building, half would be painted one color and the other half a different color, so there’s no mistaking property lines and proper addresses. Today these brightly colored buildings are a main attraction for visitors to the island where many of the 3,000 inhabitants are still fishermen or farmers.

Visitors enjoy dining beside the narrow canals of Burano.

This antique lace dress is on display at
Lidia Merletto linen store in Burano.

In recent years Burano has also become a paradise for artists and photographers. Its seaward location, colorful buildings, and numerous bridges provide inspirations for creative endeavors. Another claim to fame for the island is the beautiful laces made by skilled women in time-honored traditions that were once called “making a stitch in the air.”

During our visit to Burano, we wandered into several stores featuring beautiful handmade lace and embroidered items. At Lidia Merletto, a charming boutique selling quality linens and lace, we watched a 71-year-old lady demonstrate the skills she learned at age 10 and later developed at a lace-making school. An expert in the craft, her fingers moved deftly over the cloth, weaving in and out to form a variety of artistic designs.

One of many shops featuring exquisite handmade lace items.

The store also featured a delightful little gallery displaying lace handcrafts dating back to the 16^th century. Actual antique laces with stunningly intricate patterns hung on walls along with photos of notable lace garments. Of course, I couldn’t leave without a reminder of our visit. So I bought a lovely circular handmade piece in a classic ecru color.

If it's pizza, it's gotta be good.

After shopping and walking beside canals and over bridges, we satisfied our Italian hunger with pizza purchased from a street-side stand—dining al fresco while enjoying the warm weather and pleasant people-watching. Before long, it was time to board our boat to return to Venice.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Read more of Beverly's travel articles at Austin Adventure Travel and Striped Pot.

Italian government limits cruise ships docking in Venice

I’ve recently returned from Venice, Italy where I heard an ongoing discussion from locals about whether large cruise ships should be allowed to dock as close to the city as they currently are.  Now we learn that the number of large cruise ships passing through Venice will be limited by the Italian government.

The winding canals of Venice draw visitors to this unique city.

“Some people think large ships are unsightly and detract from the beauty of Venice,” said Francesca, our guide on an excursion to the islands of Murano and Burano. “But cruise ships bring new dollars to Venice. It’s the only business that does so today. Everyone’s job is related in some way to the cruise industry,” Francesca added.

That’s an important point. Tourism drives the economy of Venice. There are seven terminals for cruise ships, which is the reason the Venice airport is the third largest in Europe. For these reasons a powerful lobby in Venice supports the cruise ship trade and welcomes the economic benefits it brings.

But in recent years, environmentalists have protested against large ships saying they damage the city's fragile lagoon. For them the new restrictions--the number of cruise ships allowed through Venice will be cut by 20% beginning in January-- constitute a first step for an ongoing campaign.

These are the only man-made islands of Venice--for docking ships

Ships of more than 96,000 tons will be banned from the center of the city beginning November 2014. The BBC also reported that Prime Minister Enrico Letta's office announced plans to open up a new canal route to the city to allow big vessels to enter the city by an alternative route.

The Grand Canal remains a magical attraction in Venice

The Cruise Lines InternationalAssociation (CLIA) said: "While we believe that the passage of cruises through the Giudecca Canal [which flows into Venice's San Marco basin] is safe, we agree that any sustainable solution requires an alternative passage for our ships.  "We absolutely respect the Italian government’s decision and CLIA remains committed to working and collaborating with the Italian authorities in the development of the alternative final passage."

Hopefully, these actions will eventually result in a win-win situation for the cruise industry as well as for the city of Venice and its citizens who depend on cruise ships coming there for their livelihood.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Skiing in Italy: five resorts to check out

Ski in Italy's mountains

As the summer season disappears from view, now would be the time to pick up a last minute ski holiday to look forward to during the impending winter season. Whether you wait for Christmas to pass or you decide to treat you and your loved ones to a pre-festive stint on the slopes, Neilson ski holidays inItaly would place you in a prime position to enjoy every second.

Italy is a great place for holiday ski vacations

Armed with some of the best après ski facilities in Europe and an incredible array of groomed runs and off-piste opportunities, Italy has something for every capability. Here are five of its best resorts for you to choose from.

Arabba
Miles and miles of well-groomed runs, snowsure north facing slopes and a quaint ski village that provides relaxation when you need it – what more could you want from this Dolomites resort? You’d like access to the Marmolada Glacier on the cusp of the Sella Ronda circuit? OK, Arabba has that too!

Bardonecchia

Olympic class pistes, a terrain park perfect for kicks and tricks and a vibrant town that oozes modern, authentic Italy, Bardonecchia has runs to suit all proficiencies, with excellent non-skier opportunities too.



Ski Corvara

Corvara

A fun-filled resort that has a buzzing après ski scene (including the awesome ski boot tea dance!), there are plenty of gentle slopes for the beginners and families while access to the Sella Ronda circuit also appeals to the more advanced skier too.

Ski Livigno

Livigno

Beginners, intermediates and families are well catered for in this fabulous resort and the excellent snow record means that your chances of great ski opportunities are high. The resort also offers a 3km pedestrianised centre, scattered with a great selection of bars, restaurants and shops.

Ski Sauze d' Ouix

Sauze d’Oulx

This resort is the place to go if you’re after a party-mad atmosphere to keep you busy when you’re away from the slopes. Thousands of people return year after year because of the awesome atmosphere and is particularly suited to intermediate and advanced skiers.

Wherever you choose, Italy is a perfect destination for skiing and boarding during this winter.

Sponsored post and photos provided by Neilson holidays.

The old-world glamour of Bellagio, Italy

Every time I look out of our hotel room at Bellagio, Italy I’m amazed at the beauty of the area. From our balcony we see a large expanse of blue lake, guarded by mountains across the water, and several small villages nestled along the shoreline.

View of lakes from Punta Spartivento

We walk uphill to Punta Spartivento, “point where wind divides,” as it marks the conjunction of three lakes—Lecco branch is southeast, Como branch is southwest, and Colico branch is straight ahead. This distinctive spot stands in my memory as a highlight of Bellagio because it affords exceptional views of Lake Como splitting and flowing in three directions.


Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni

To see how the super-rich spend their vacations, we walk to the entrance of Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, originally a private villa when it was built in 1852. Today the hotel is owned by the Rockefeller Foundation of New York.

Beach at the Grand Villa

In the upper part of town is the church square where we first parked, the Piazza San Giacomo. St. James Basilica is located there. Built at the end of the 11^th century, it was decreed a National Monument in 1904. A granite fountain in the middle of the square was created in 1897 to celebrate the 60^th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s reign. The statue of Madonna on top was added in 1947. Streets are very narrow and lined with shops where tourist are filling up their bags.

St. James Basilica attracts tourists

Hungarian musician and composer Franz Liszt arrived in Bellagio in the summer of 1837 with his lover Madame d’Agoult. No one recognized him, and he appreciated the solitude—until a friend decided to sell one of Liszt’s compositions. After people realized he was here, his service improved noticeably. Liszt loved Lake Como and thought it a superb place for people in love.

Mark Twain came with friends in 1867. A page of his book Innocents Abroad describes the hotel we’re staying in. He tells of days wandering, admiring the Alps, and of evenings playing billards, dining, and smoking on the porch overlooking the lake.

Right beside Hotel Metropole, where we're staying, is the “borgo,” Bellagio’s historic center and one of the first areas in the town to be inhabited and developed. The Tourist Office in Piazza Mazzini is located here, so you can easily book excursions including boat rides on the lake. Many shops, cafes, and galleries also cater to visitors.

Gelateria in front of Hotel Metropole
in the "borgo," or historic center of Bellagio

It doesn’t take long to feel the romantic ambience and unique character of the town. The tempo of life is slower here. Tourists—even Americans—seem to stroll rather than power-walk. We don’t see anyone jogging on the streets.

Bellagio is a great place to relax and recharge, especially with a favorite person. After just one night there, the spirit of the town captures our imaginations. It’s one of those rare places I could return to in a heartbeat.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Read more travel stories at Striped Pot.