See why Budapest is the "City of Baths"

The main indoor pool at Gellert Bath and Spa in Budapest, Hungary.

Stepping into the warm, swirling water of Gellert Bath, my muscles immediately began to relax, and a soothing aura surrounded me. Was it really therapeutic or just my imagination from hearing so much about the healing effects of mineral hot springs in Budapest, Hungary?

No matter, the thermal pool into which I immersed my body felt heavenly. 

The hotel and spa are located at the bottom of
scenic Gellert Hill in Budapest.

Thermal springs are found throughout Hungary, and with more than 120 hot springs in the capital city, Budapest has earned the title “City of Baths.”

Whether or not the calcium, magnesium, hydrocarbonate, alkalis, chloride, sulfate, and fluoride (yes, all those minerals are in the thermal pool waters) actually alleviate aching joints, improve circulation, or cure a variety of ailments doesn’t matter to most people visiting the thermal springs today. The baths have become a social gathering place for fun and entertainment as well as relaxation and healing.

Locals and tourists wait for the huge manmade waves
that roll though this pool.

Celtic tribes, the first settlers in the area, discovered and used the healing waters in the first century B.C. Romans and Hungarians followed and used the baths for centuries. The Turks were the first to recognize the importance of Budapest’s thermal springs and turn them into bathhouses. 

While it’s still possible to experience traditional Turkish baths in Budapest, Gellert and Szechenyi, the two largest and best known public baths, have been modernized for today’s clients. I was able to experience both of these during my August visit to Budapest.

Lavish decorations inside Gellert Bath.

Built in the early 1900s as a women’s thermal bath, Gellert has only been co-ed since 2013. Located in the same building as the Hotel Gellert at the bottom of Gellert Hill, one of the most photographed sights in Budapest, it is perhaps the most architecturally beautiful with wall mosaics and stained glass windows reflecting the Art Nouveau style of its reconstruction after World War II. Today it includes saunas, several indoor pools, and an outdoor swimming and manmade wave pool. You can even have a massage while there (Yes, I did!)

Spring-fed Szecheny Bath is located in Budapest City Park.

The spring waters of Szechenyi Baths were discovered in the 1880s, and by 1913 millions of people were immersing themselves in the therapeutic powers of the baths. Szechenyi is a huge public coed bath located in City Park, the largest green space in Budapest. The Neo-baroque palace was specifically built for hosting Szechenyi Baths, which includes a total of 18 indoor and outdoor pools, some fed by hot springs and others featuring cooler temperatures.  Ten saunas and steam baths are also available for guests, as are aroma therapy massages and other spa services.

Buildings surrounding Szechney Baths are also ornate.

Both complexes are built around huge palaces and include a maze of pools to explore, so plan to spend at least half a day sampling the different areas. It’s easy to get lost in the long corridors of lockers and changing facilities on multiple levels (don’t rely on the map you’re handed), so don’t hesitate to ask for directions when trying to find where you stashed your belongings.

Bathers enjoy the warm, therapeutic waters indoors year round.

Bring towels, flip-flops, and a swim cap if you fancy a swim indoors, as caps are required in the swimming pool but not in the lounging pools. Rentals are available as are modest food and drink options. Since the baths feature both indoor and outdoor facilities, they’re able to operate year round.

If you're into wellness and spas, don’t miss this iconic experience when visiting Budapest.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Castle Hill is the best spot in Budapest, Hungary for photos

View of both sides of Budapest from Castle Hill

Budapest, Hungary is one of Europe’s prettiest cities. And that accolade will be reinforced when you visit Castle Hill, a high point on the Buda side that is visible from almost anywhere in the city.


Matthias Church on Castle Hill

This World Heritage Site has many must-see attractions including the two most imposing structures, Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. For the best photos, especially overviews of the city below, this is the place to go.

The Gothic style church, beloved by locals, was built during the 13^th to 15^th centuries. The most striking feature of the church is the 72-metre high Matthias tower on the south side. The Bale tower on the north side is covered with intricately-patterned glazed tiles, which make it a perfectly gorgeous building that is also known for its excellent organ and outstanding acoustics.

Brightly colored tiles form an
intricate pattern on the roof of
Matthias Church in Budapest.

Fisherman’s Bastion is a system of stairs, turrets, and terraces at the eastern side of Castle Hill.  Erected between 1895 and 1902 at the place where the fish market existed in the Middle Ages,  it’s made for wandering and exploring. Although the bastions serve a decorative rather than defense function, arches on the walkways provide perfect frames for buildings and Matthias Church. Looking out from the terraces you’ll have a magnificent view of mountains, Margaret Island, several Danube bridges, Gellert Hill, and the Pest side of the city.


Fisherman's Bastion is a fun place
to check out on Castle Hill

The golden age of Castle Hill was in the 15th century, when many Italian artists and craftsmen arrived and Buda was an important European city. After the Turkish occupation (during which time Matthias Church was converted into a mosque), Buda was in ruins, and Castle Hill soon became the district of government. During World War II, Buda was bombed to the ground and had to be rebuilt.

Today, the streets of the Castle Hill district still follow their medieval paths with some houses dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. In addition to many shops, restaurants, and museums, Castle Hill is also a residential area. Cars have been banned; only people who live and work there are allowed to drive. Visitors must use public transportation.
Castle Hill is also home to a large interconnected cellar system that consists of natural caves created by thermal waters and man-made passageways. Part of the cellar system can be toured at the Buda Castle Labyrinth and at the Hospital in the Rock Museum.

View of the city from Fisherman's Bastion

You can take the Funicular from Chain Bridge; the public bus, or walk one of many paths leading up to Castle Hill. Walking tours include all the major sights and allow time to stop at a café for refreshments.

But the best way to see the area is to spend a couple of hours strolling along the cobblestone streets and exploring at your own pace. See the statue at Trinity Square, Matthias Church, and Fishermen’s Bastion for sure, and then check out shops, galleries, historic landmarks, and museums--Pharmacy Museum, Hospital in the Rock, and Budapest History—according to your interests and available time.

Trinity Square is a gathering place for visitors to Castle Hill

There are many dining options from high end to casual, even picnicking, and it’s fun to take a rest break at an outdoor venue so you can watch people passing by. Quality handcrafted items like pottery (my favorite) can be found in numerous shops, so allow time for browsing.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier