Put this Peruvian city on your South American itinerary

Arches overlooking the city of Arequipa, Pery

We arrived in Arequipa in southern Peru and were met at the airport by our guide Beatrice, native of the city, and driver Roberto. We soon saw why Peru’s second largest city is called “white city.” Many buildings (homes, palaces, churches, convents) were built with sillar, white volcanic rock found in abundance in the area. As the historic center, it contains many colonial-era buildings, primarily churches and convents, built during the 400-years of Spanish domination from 1452 through the 1800s. 

Volcanoes nearby

Arequipa means “behind the mountains,” an apt name since the city is located at the foot of volcano Misti, a city icon. It’s near the Valley of the Volcanoes, which contains more than 80, some still active. In fact, the topography is very dry and rocky, resembling what I think the moon’s surface must look like.

Mountains and volcanoes surround Arequipa.

There’s great variety in the climate, geology, and ecology. Although it’s located in the middle of the Peruvian desert at 7800 feet, ash from volcanoes makes it a fertile agriculture center for crops like onions, garlic, and grains. 

Arequipa encompasses centuries of history of the Peruvian Highlands. Its archeological heritage, Inca legacy, and older cultures have left an indelible mark on culture, customs, art, and the city’s development. Industries include alpaca wool factories, cement factories, and copper mines.

White volcanic rock used for buildings

Convent reveals city’s history

Santa Catalina Convent, founded in 1579, is one of Arequipa’s most visited sights. Beautiful chapels, squares, and streets that retain original styles and vibrant colors of orange, blue, and red make this a must-see. Calle Sevilla, the oldest and longest street, retains the look of Arequipa from the 16^th century, when the convent was essentially an entire city.

Carmen, our guide, explained that the Dominican convent was populated by many second daughters, who were expected to become nuns while oldest daughters married. The nuns lived on one side of the wall, and the public (town) was on the other side. They took vows for silence, work, and prayer, coming at age 12 and training till age 16.

There were 80 different apartments; wealthier nuns had better places, and poorer nuns might be their servants trying to work off their dowry. In addition to other duties, nuns embroidered robes and other finery for priests.

Santa Catalina Convent 

Tiles on the floor of the convent were in the original Santa Catalina church. Faith-based artwork from the 18^th century was restored in 2006, and 100 paintings are displayed in the art gallery. Today entrance fees go to the nuns for upkeep of the property, which is now a museum and tourist attraction. The nearby square is a busy commercial area where arches along the streets add charm to the trees, paths, and fountain in Plaza de Armas.

Tourism is growing

We visited the main square in Arequipa where arches, each decorated with quotes from important people, look over the city.  The first cathedral in the region is here, indicating an important transition from Inca to Catholic religion. The ancient Grau Bridge is a famous landmark over the Chile River. Peru just became a democracy 30 years ago, but with more than a million people living in the country, tourism is actively pursued.

A fun fact: It’s cheaper to take a taxi than to drive around the city, so there’s plenty of business for its 48,000 taxis.

Exterior of Hotel Casa Andina in Arequipa

While in Arequipa, we stayed at Hotel Casa Andina Private Collection, a restored colonial-era house with original stone flooring. Rooms in the old section have stone walls two feet thick, small windows, alpaca blanket, 10-light chandelier, and flat-screen television.  A new part of the hotel was built behind the former Spanish mansion.  Wicker sofas and chairs invite guests to lounge in an open sitting area. A full buffet breakfast was served outdoors by the main courtyard of this charming hotel located within walking distance of many attractions.

 Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Discover history, nature, and culture through hotels in the Highlands of Peru

View of the mountains from Casa Andina in Arequipa, Peru

We stayed at a variety of hotels during our trip to Peru, an increasingly popular country for travel. If the Andean Highlands region of Peru is on your travel list, check out these exceptional hotels. Whether located in the city center or secluded in remote regions, accommodations like these in Peru’s High Plateau offer a banquet of history, nature, and culture.

Casa Andina Private Collection

Arequipa, in southern Peru, is the historic center of the Highlands Region. Its Inca legacy is overshadowed by remnants of the Spanish colonial period, and that includes the renovated house that became the foundation for Casa Andina.  This Spanish mansion, named a National Historic Monument, has been expanded into a centrally located luxury hotel that’s as much museum as accommodation.

Courtyard of Casa Andina in Arequipa, Peru.

A restoration project rescued the mansion from a century of neglect and transformed original two-foot thick stone walls into five large suites.  High vaulted ceilings, frescoes, and original flooring—a herringbone pattern of rocks embedded in stone—maintain the colonial character.

Exterior of Casa Andina in Arequipa retains characteristics of a
Spanish Colonial building.

A modern two-story section with 36 additional rooms overlooks an open air sitting area made comfortable with wicker sofas and chairs. Casa Andina is quiet, even though it’s just around the corner from the tourist attraction, 16^th century Santa Catalina Convent, and a few blocks from the main square.

Dine: A full buffet breakfast is served either indoors or outdoors by the main courtyard of the hotel.  For lunch or dinner, enjoy the beautiful gardens of Sol Del Mar in Arequipa.

Colca Lodge

Dining room of Colca Lodge, favorite accomodation for people
who wantto hike in Colca Canyon.

Built completely of stone, mud bricks, and thatched roofs, ColcaLodge is an oasis in the middle of the sparsely populated Colca Valley.  Its architecture was inspired by ancient Inca buildings, perfectly appropriate since it’s located in farmland heavily terraced by Inca and pre-Inca cultures--and still cultivated using ancient methods. 

Located next to the Colca River, the lodge features beautiful views from the lovely spa and naturally soothing hot springs. Sunny orange stucco buildings and plenty of colorful flowers brighten the scenery, and numerous paths allow for gentle exploration around the property.

Natural hot springs invite guests to soak and relax.

Feather comforters and luxury showers also make the 45 rooms a prime choice for serious hikers in the Colca Canyon (the world’s deepest canyon) and visitors heading out to observe the famous condors of this Andean valley.
Dine: Colca Lodge’s fine restaurant offers a varied menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner—including tasty soups and barbeque (alpaca, anyone?). Staff will pack a generous lunch to-go if requested.

Hotel Titilaka

Situated in a rural area overlooking Lake Titicaca (at 12,500 feet altitude it’s the world’s highest navigable lake), art-filled Hotel Titilaka considers sharing historic and cultural experiences as important as pampering guests. 

Back side of Hotel Titilaka with walkway to the lake (beware the
altitude of 12,500 feet!)

A few years ago Peruvian developer Ignacio Masias purchased an existing hotel on a private peninsula jutting into Lake Titicaca. After renovations, eighteen large, contemporary rooms now gleam with walls of windows that take advantage of spectacular scenery and connect guests with the natural environment.

The hotel’s signature program is The Andean Experience, which includes transportation to and from the Juliaca airport, numerous excellent tours led by local residents, and all meals and drinks. Excursions that revolve around local culture allow this stunning retreat to promote economic development of nearby communities. 

Breakfast is a sumptuous affair with impeccable and personalized service.

Once guests arrive at this tranquil oasis they are catered to by gracious staff, about half of whom are indigenous people from local communities. The hotel provides indulgences indicative of a first class property: heated floors, spa bathrooms with oversized tubs and massage showers, indoor chaises with gorgeous lake views, spacious double vanities, and complimentary stocked mini-bar.

Superb views of Lake Titicaca from our room.

What the hotel doesn’t have—and doesn’t need--is easy access to the bright lights of city nightlife. Instead, the spirit of ancient civilizations soothes the soul.

Dine: You couldn’t beat the on-premises restaurant for fresh seafood and vegetables—even if there were other options nearby which there aren’t--and everything is included.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier 

From Arequipa to Colca Canyon and the Highlands of Peru

Located in the southern part of Peru, Colca Canyon has become one of the country’s top adventure destinations. Day trips from Arequipa are the most popular way to see the canyons, and there are hundreds to choose from. Adventure and trekking tours are a big draw, but we’re headed to the Highlands of Peru to experience local culture, high-quality handicrafts, and spectacular .mountain and canyon scenery.

Tending to llamas in a remote area of Peru

We head towards Chivay, 100 miles from Arequipa, and Colca Canyon beyond that. We stop at a small corral with alpacas and llamas sporting colored ribbons in their ears that identify them according to age. We give candy to the young boy who tends the animals with his mother. In this isolated region, some children travel two hours each way to attend school, and tourists are rarely seen.

The Trans Oceanic Road that we drive on part of the day was built more than 20 years ago and runs from the Pacific to Atlantic Oceans. The landscape is mostly desert with only a few patches of green where onions and garlic are growing. Mountains in the background are composed of dirt and white volcanic ash that creates a haze drifting the air. Eventually we see more cacti and yellow grass that’s used to make roofs, sandals, rope, and bridges by the indigenous people.

The Trans Oceanic Highway travels through barren landscapes
and into the mountains of Peru.

Franklin, our driver, sets in for a long ride on this paved but desolate road with no place for comfort stops. Vicunas roam in the national park we pass through. These delicate tan and white animals, wild relatives of llamas and alpacas, have wool that is 25 times finer than human hair and much prized for weaving expensive garments. No wonder they are a protected species.


Vicunas graze in the shadow of majestic mountains.

As we approach higher elevations (now 12,300 feet) Beatrice, our guide, shows us how to roll up coca leaves and place them between teeth and cheek—where it stays for the next couple of hours. Sipping water makes our own coca tea, intended to counter effects of the high elevation (not a cure, by any means!).


Locals offer a variety of goods for sale at roadside stops.

In the distance we see several volcanoes that were visible from Arequipa: Misti, Chachani, and Pichupichu. Mountains, lakes, and prairie landscapes flit by during our long day’s journey into the Highlands. While the terrain seems rather unfriendly, the native people are intrigued by U.S. visitors. This is not a tourist highway, so North Americans are not a common sight, especially at the higher elevations.

Along the way we encounter local vendors with handmade goods for purchase spread out on tables. Beautiful textiles and functional clothing items, as well as trinkets and souvenirs, are a modest means of supplementing their meager farming incomes. We stop for lunch and then continue our ascent into the mountains.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Ancient Spanish mansion is now luxurious Casa Andina in Arequipa, Peru

If you like to travel off the beaten path, you’ll find the High Plateau region of southern Peru to be worth a journey. Just because you’ve chosen to explore lesser visited regions doesn’t mean you’ll have to “rough it.” New highways provide comfortable driving, and superior hotels are available in cities of the Altiplano. (One caution: When traveling in high altitudes take precautions if you’re susceptible to altitude sickness. If you do have symptoms, don’t hesitate to ask for oxygen; it’s as common as a coffee pot in the lobby.)



View from the deck at Casa Andina in Arequipa, Peru

The city of Arequipa, in southern Peru, is the historic center of the Highlands Region, and it provides a banquet of cultural sites and natural beauty. Its Inca legacy is overshadowed by remnants of the Spanish colonial period such as the renovated house that has become the foundation for Casa Andina.  This Spanish mansion, named a National Historic Monument, has been expanded into a luxury hotel in the heart of town. It’s as much museum as hotel in this traditionally elegant city.


Exterior of Casa Andina retains the Spanish architecture.

After a restoration project that rescued the mansion from a century of neglect, the hotel opened in 2008 with five large suites containing original two-foot thick stone walls.  One window in our suite opened to small private courtyard that was planted with tall, slender cacti. A pull string on another window allowed us to bring in light and air as needed. Luxury touches included an alpaca blanket, 10-light chandelier, and flat-screen television.  High vaulted ceilings, original frescoes, and an original herringbone walkway of rocks embedded in stone maintain the colonial character.


Interior courtyard of Casa Andina has comfortable areas for socializing.

A modern two-story section with 36 additional rooms overlooks an open air sitting area made comfortable with cushioned wicker sofas and chairs. From the deck at Casa Andina, you’ll have great views of the volcano Misti and other volcanoes that surround the city.



One courtyard of the Santa Catalina Convent

Casa Andina is surprisingly quiet, especially since it’s just around the corner from the renowned 16^th century Santa Catalina Convent (heavily visited by tourists) and a few blocks from the main square. A full buffet breakfast is served at the main courtyard of this historic, yet comfortable, accommodation. 



Peruvian cuisine is attracting international attention these days.

A short walk from the hotel takes you to a hive of activity in town and shopping opportunities. Be sure to tour the convent and monastery to hear remarkable stories about how the nuns lived there centuries ago and their modern day lives of religious service. For Peruvian culinary specialties, dine beside the beautiful gardens of Sol de Mayo, a favorite restaurant of locals and tourists for more than a century.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier