OT: Public Announcment

I would like to invite anyone who will happen to be anywhere near Maryland in the middle of March to the Francaise Dinner. This is an annual event of feasting, friends, and fabulous finery. There is a lot more information on the link above or through the banner image posted. Please, feel free to contact me for any additional information.

I want to also apologize for not being able to post as much as I would like. Graduate school (I'm going for my Masters in Digital Forensics) is eating up far more time than I would like. Hopefully, I will have more time to post in the next few days.

OT: Public Service Announcement

A few days ago, Ebay decided it would be brilliant to change the vintage clothing categories from decades based to maybe three eras based under womens and under both men's and women's vintage, have it sectioned out by items. So now, you have men's 1990's vest hobnobbing with men's 1790's waistcoats. 0_o? I doubt I have to explain to anyone here why this is a terrible idea. It's made it very difficult for me to search through items and some sellers have also gotten mad as well. If you have an ebay account, however, you can complain. I think if enough people complain, they might change it back (or else, everyone really will just move to etsy which is already happening).

Go to My Ebay, if you have an account.

Click the "Tell Us What You Think" link that is located right beneath the "Search" button.

The page that should come up, should look like the above.  In the "Tell Us More" explain that you want the vintage clothing categories to be by decade again for ease of browsing and shopping rather than the ridiculous vintage clothing by article that it is now.  Basically "Change it back the way it was!   Don't fix what wasn't broken!" type thing.

Hopefully, if enough of us complain, they'll listen.   If not, etsy will see a huge uptick in business.  Feel free to post this on other social media as well.

Edit:  I've had some minor luck with Twitter as well.  Just tweet to @askebay if you have a twitter account and tell them to change the vntg clothing categories back to decades, not clothing items.

Public Warning Announcement

This is not an antique Edwardian lingerie gown. Whoever started that on pintrest needs to be taught a lesson. It didn't look right to me for a lot of reasons, so I did a reverse image google search. Please, if something ever doesn't look right to you, try the image search. It's amazing what you'll find.

And yes, it's very much not a piece of Edwardian lingerie. Instead, it's a 1970's Gunne Sax gown. Now, I love the vintage Gunne Sax stuff - if I could, I'd wear that all the time. However, Gunne Sax is not Edwardian. Ever. So, please, be careful what you pin and what you write. Thank you.

Off Topic Post: Blogger Award

The lovely Åsa of Fashion Through History nominated this blog for the blogger award above. Thank you! I'm glad this blog does help others with research as well as, hopefully, is a bit of eye candy as well.

I don't normally do these here but I like the question aspect of it and felt it would be fun to answer them.  I debated about nominating other blogs and quite honestly, I can't choose just ten.  I follow 90+ blogs alone over on my bloglovin feed.  That doesn't include all the livejournal blogs I follow as well as some I haven't added yet to bloglovin.  It seems wrong to select only a few when there are so many people out there that have absolutely stunning creations or provide wonderful information.   So yeah, I fail at following this to the letter.

To claim the award/awards I need to follow the rules and:
1. Thank the blogger who nominated you, linking back to their site
2. Put the Award logo on your blog.
3. Answer the 10 questions sent to you.
4. Make up 10 new questions for your nominees to answer
5. Nominate 10 blogs.

1. How did you start sewing Historical/or other costumes?
The Renn Fest.   I've been going to the Maryland Renaissance Festival since the mid 1990's (okay, that was with my parents but still...) and I loved all the gorgeous costumes I saw.  However, even the basic peasant blouses were $40 even back then.  Not exactly allowance money.

I fell in love with the velvet gowns most of all but they were $1000 easily.  So, in 1999, I managed to win a lot of blue "silk" brocade (I much later learned it was not silk) and went about making up one of the Ever After dress patterns.

I've seen reconstructed this one.  You can read a lot more about it here.


2. What other things do you do then sewing/creating?
Spinning, knitting, cooking, hiking, playing with the Shepherd's Hut.   If internet surfing was a real job, I'd be a billionaire.  Actually, in real life, I'm a financial analyst.  I look for financial crimes and attempt to prevent any further occurrences.  Probably not what most people were expecting...

3. What item/project that you made are you the most proud of? (may we see pictures?)

Sorry for the horrible picture. I know I have a good one somewhere of me wearing the entire outfit - I'm just not sure where. This is my late 16th century Italian merchant class dress. It is a bright pink wool. I wear it with a mustard yellow linen apron and a green and brown linen dutch cloak. It is my absolute favorite dress to wear Thankfully, I'll get to wear it in less than a month at Pennsic again. :-)



4. Do you have a secret shame item/project that you will share? (Pictures?)

This was my very sad attempt at an early bustle era dress. I'm not quite sure what went wrong (I've since thrown the entire dress away) but I'm sure a lot. First, the bodice didn't fit right - it was way too baggy and made me look a lot bigger than I really am. Then there was the whole skirt not staying out and the bustle not being as bustle-y as it needed to be. Really, there is just a lot wrong with it.

5. Do you prefer Books, You-Tube videos or other, for sewing reference? And which are your favorite one/s?
It depends on what I'm sewing. If it's something 1770's or later, I just go upstairs. :-) My personal collection of antique garments allows me to physically see "how the heck did they do that?" I also tend to use my own website.
I do pay attention to my friends as well and the techniques they use. At this point, I'm more considered about the cut of the fabric than I am about the sewing itself so I try to use period pattern books when I can.

6. Whats your best sewing tip/trick?

For drawstrings - take a drinking straw, cut it in half. Take the length of ribbon/cord/whatever you are using for the drawstring and put it in the straw, pulling just enough of it through so you have a couple of inches on the other end. Fold this piece of the ribbon/cord back over to the top of the straw and pin it down. Use the straw to guide you through the channel. It works MUCH better than the safety pin method.


7. What’s your biggest sewing cheat that you do but you know that you shouldn’t?

I guess machine sewing the seams? Maybe using cotton rather than linen for the lining of any Renaissance dress although the Italians had cotton so... Maybe never paying attention to the directions on a sewing pattern because they hardly ever make sense anyway? Yeah, I'll go with that.


8. What’s you biggest inspiration in deciding on up-coming projects?

What event is coming up next. :-D Seriously, that is probably the number one motivating factor. It's why I should be finishing up the eyelets on my 1490's Venetian right now and I'm clearly not... I have a few more Renaissance/Medieval garb pieces to create for Pennsic. My brain has been stuck on Pennsic since ummm...April? It will not get off the Pennsic channel until Pennsic is over with...and then there is the Renn Faire so I won't be over all things 16th Century until October. Maybe. ....Did I mention this happens every year? Just ask my poor friends that put up with this...

9. Do you have a favorite era/style that you do?

LOL! Read above. Yes. All things 16th Century all the time. If it's Italian, I probably have it somewhere.


10. What is your dream project? (Picture/s please)

Right now? This for 18th century:

For late 16th Century/early 17th Century:

And one day, when I get brave enough again to try Bustle, I'd like to make something similar to this gown.

OT Posting

If anyone is interested and wears a size 7 shoe, I have a pair of American Duchess Kensingtons and Astorias up for sale right now on ebay.  If you do SCA stuff (like me!) I also have a pair of Dansko sandals up that would work well for most of the middle ages.  They are a size 38.

Dansko sandals, size 38.

American Duchess Astoria, size 7. Comes with the original box.

American Duchess Kensignton, size 7. Comes with original box. Never worn.
Please, let me know if you have any questions. Back to your regularly scheduled extant dresses in a bit.

Off Topic Post

We Have A New Address!!!!

Http://extantgowns.blogspot.com is now http://www.extantgowns.com.  The old address will still work.  You can now reach me at admin@extantgowns.com.  For those that have the old email address, it will still work as well.

I'm still working on getting the message board up.  I hope it will be a place to discuss various styles or ask questions about the various styles.   Feel free to join and ask questions - I'd love opinions on the style of the message board and what you would like to see. 

Now, back to fashion history!

Off Topic Post - Medium Sized Transitional Stays Pattern now up for sale!

These are available up at Spoonflower. Order the fat quarter for one copy of the pattern in a medium size. The small size is also still up as well. These are pretty highly adjustable given the front and back lacing. I wear my stays, which are from this pattern, with all my Regency era dresses. I truly love them - they are comfortable and work well through out most of the Regency era (1795-1825).

 Here's the pattern as it arrived today in the mail for me to make sure it actually looks okay.  There is only one minor issue and it has to do with the strap.

 The strap matches in the front strap tab perfectly - however not with the back one.  Just add a small gusset in your mock up and it should work fine.  Add the triangular gusset to the inside - armscye- side. 

 The pattern front on the dress dummy.   The strap is a bit long - but I did that on purpose so that people can adjust it to their size as needed.   Just cut off the excess when doing a mock up. 

The back with the bum roll piece.  :-)   Match to the pink dot closest to the back or move it closer to the back tabs.  It will work fine from there. 

Feel free to ask any questions. Here's the previous post for the small stays pattern.

Another off topic post

I've recently posted a few of my own collection for sale on ebay. Pictures of these items are below and more information on each of them is available through the link. Unfortunately, the doctors bills are starting to pile up (kidney stones are not fun) so I need to sell a few items. I might post a couple of more items later this week. I also have a few pieces of garb and costumes up on etsy.

 1890's Bodice and Skirt

 Post American Civil War Era Young Miss Bodice

 Edwardian Young Miss Summer Dress

WWII Theater Victorian Bodice

And now back to your regular posting!

One of those off topic posts

 

I'm very happy to announce that I have finished my first pattern for sale.  It's of a pair of 1790's stays I have in my private collection.  This is to the original measurements and would fit a smaller sizes (a small busted 2 to a large busted 6 due to the squish factor and the lacing in both front and back).  the pattern is based off the blue stays that you can see at the bottom of the link.

The pattern is currently only for a size small but I do plan on adding a medium and large in the near future. You can buy the fat quarter at spoonflower.

I have made my own short stays from this pattern (with modifications because I'm not a small person) and LOVE them. I actually have two pairs. Here's the red pair:


I don't think I have a picture of the blue pair, but I wear them with pretty much every single Regency gown I've made. The blue pair are a bit hardier because of the fabric I used. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Slightly off topic but here's why there are so few men's clothes on this site

From the seller:

Treasures from THE PHILADELPHIA / DELAWARE VALLEY COLLECTION at The Willing Mind. By exclusive arrangement with The Grand Review.

Print size 16 x 24, and consciously formatted to work with a 16 x 24 frame, or custom framed as you see fit.


This is a new large format print of a very early 20th century photograph in our collection. It cannot be before 1903, because he is wearing an early incarnation of a Stormy Kromer cap, and Stormy didn't go into real production until 1903.

What I love here is the total look. Real work boots that have seen real work (I was in the Laborer's Union as a night shift sand hog in the late 70s while going to college during the day, and I went through boots!) A work shirt that looks like half a dozen of the shirts in my dresser at home. A vest that I imagine is likely roughout suede, raw shearling side facing in. Topping it all off a beloved Stormy Kromer, which is my winter hat of choice though mine has a less pronounced crown.

A better description of the jeans I leave to the antique jeans experts that I hope see this posting, and I will post their comments here.

From Me:

Give the guy a shave, turn the vest safety cone orange, and I swear I see a dozen people like him every single day along I-95 (main interstate on the East Coast of the United States). This photo is 100+ years old yet does anyone see anything that signals that out other than the way this guy trims his facial hair? Sorry guys, but you lost your sense of fashion sometime in the mid Victorian age. It started to die in the Regency time period - when blue and brown became the go to colors and black was seen as perfect all the time for gentleman- but was completely killed off in the Victorian age.

This is why I don't have many guys' outfits up on this site. Mens' fashions haven't changed in over 100 years. Even the guy in the photo is wearing the basic shoes, jeans, and long sleeved "t-shirt". It's hard to get excited over something that hasn't become drastically different in a century. Even most outfits from 200 years ago aren't ridiculously different from today:

Angle that vest, yank off that cravat and put a tie in it's place, and take off those shoes - you have pretty much modern formal wear while wearing a trench coat. Well, he'd need shoes, but other than that...

The point is that I don't post much gentlemen's clothing because it hasn't changed. Ladies clothing changed dramatically over the decades up until, really, 1966. Women's fashion only just died - guys fashion died a long time ago.

Off Topic Post! 1907 Paris

A glimpse into the exclusive world of Paris' haute-couture heritage: seamstresses working behind the scenes at the Worth Ateliers in 1907. (Jacques Boyer/Roger-Viollet)

From the BBC:

If you didn’t get an invite to Paris fashion week this year, there could be another way to get a glimpse into the rarefied world of haute couture. Thanks to the Paris Haute Couture exhibition – the city’s first major exhibition dedicated to this modern day art form – the hoi polloi have a chance to see some of the world’s most exquisite creations up close.

On display in the exhibition wing of Paris’ City Hall until 6 July are more than 100 haute couture dresses and outfits, showcasing intricate designs from illustrious Parisian fashion houses including Poiret at the turn of the 19th Century, Chanel and Schiaparelli in the 1930s through to contemporary designs by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy in the current decade.

The glamorous ball gowns and cocktail dresses as well as natty daywear outfits are displayed on mannequins of varying sizes to reflect the shape of the ideal woman at the time of each design. Each piece has been painstakingly created using luxurious silks and velvets, with details such as sparkling Swarovski crystals.

Also on display are design sketches, fabric swatches and photographs of the designers and seamstresses at work, allowing a peek into this exclusive and quintessentially Parisian world, from the conception stage to the finished catwalk-ready product.

Entrance is free, and no tickets are needed.

From Me:

How much is a ticket to Paris again?

Although this is for a museum exhibit, which I try to stay away from since anyone can look up a museum's collection and see the item, I thought this needed to be shared. Not so much the article as much as the absolutely wonderful photo from 1907.

One of the very rare Off Topic Posts

Okay, so it's not really completely off topic since I hope this is something that will be of interest to many of you. Many years ago, I worked in museums. I actually worked or had an internship in various museums over a period of 10 years. Okay, so there was a break in there and I started one internship when I was 14 but....I know museums.

I belong to a museum list where I keep up with the day to day stuff of small museums just in case I want a huge cut in pay and lose all my weekends to boot. ;-) Really, it's because I love seeing what other small museums are popping up around the world.

This message just came over the list:

Dear List -The organization I work with is looking for a source of 1913-era clothing in order to do a fashion show. If you know of an organization that has done this type of program or would be able to lend us period clothing, I would appreciate a contact. Please let me know if you need further information - Donna Nortman, Executive Director Manlius Historical Society 315 682-6660 www.ManliusHistory.org

Yeah....umm...no. Just no. Here is my response to her alone:

I run the http://extantgowns.blogspot.com/ blog. I would strongly suggest against a fashion show and do a fashion display. I doubt anyone with Edwardian/Teens Era clothing would lend it to be displayed on an actually person given the fragile nature of the cloth. I have several dresses and gowns from the "Titanic" era and there is no way on earth a human body should wear them. Although many are in good condition, I want them to stay in good condition - which means no oils, sweat, or other things the human skin had on it should get onto the dresses. Also, the stress of a person moving would be too much for many of the gowns - especially given the silk ones! I've often lent out my dresses from various eras for display but never, ever to wear. A static display would allow individuals to look at the clothing and be able to take non flash photography is they wished to. I've even allowed people to touch the clothing if they have gloves on so to better examine seams, how the fabric moves, ect.

A fashion show with replicas of 1913 clothing would be very entertaining and there are a lot of people that recently completed 1913 items for a sewing competition sponsored here: http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/ A few of the girls may live close enough to come and help out if you went that route. Also, with lending actual 100 year old pieces, the paperwork for insurance might be a nightmare within itself!

Sincerely,


Isabella


Luckily, another lady has already backed me up publicly on the list:

A vintage dance group may be able to help, and they tend to enjoy doingdance demos, too. I know there is an active community in Boston andprobably around New York City, too. The problem with borrowing clothing is, once I've put the work into making something I do not want someone else to wear it. And originals, not at all. Some collectors will loan clothing for an exhibit, but not for a fashion show. It's too easy to damage clothing, whether it's original or repro. -Carol



I don't want to be too cruel but it surprises me that an executive director thinks it's okay to wear 100 year old garments on a runway....