Linkspam: Cosplay is Not Consent

From a year and a half ago.  I should have kept this updated, I haven't because it's so depressing to keep adding to the list.


http://madartlab.com/2013/12/06/getting-groped-gender-bias-and-genderbending/

http://www.geeksaresexy.net/2013/04/04/costumes-are-not-consent-combatting-cosplayer-harassment/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4Rjy5yW1gQ

http://geekfeminism.wikia.com/wiki/Ren%C3%A9_and_Readercon

http://geekfeminism.wikia.com/wiki/Wiscon_troll_incident

whatever.scalzi.com/2008/04/22/open-source-boobs/

feminspire.com/cosplay-is-not-consent-keep-harassment-out-of-comic-con/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Feminspire+%28Feminspire%29

http://www.themarysue.com/the-all-too-familiar-harassment-against-feminist-frequency-and-what-the-gaming-community-can-do-about-it/

www.strangelikethat.com/2012/09/an-open-letter-to-convention-going-butt-photographers/

http://www.themarysue.com/microsoft-reply-rape-comments/

http://www.themarysue.com/black-cat-cosplay-harassment/

http://www.themarysue.com/john-scalzi-con-harassment/

http://www.themarysue.com/things-we-saw-today-324/

http://www.geeksaresexy.net/2013/04/04/costumes-are-not-consent-combatting-cosplayer-harassment/

http://kotaku.com/5896920/the-fake-threat-of-fake-geek-girls

http://geekfeminism.org/2013/07/24/open-thread-never-say-fake-geek-again/

http://meagan-marie.tumblr.com/post/46396481491/what-would-you-do-if-you-werent-afraid

http://meagan-marie.tumblr.com/post/47680470186/why-do-i-cosplay-let-me-count-the-ways-the

http://io9.com/slut-shaming-and-concern-trolling-in-geek-culture-511721655

http://www.popphoto.com/news/2013/06/photographer-lands-hot-water-over-cosplayer-body-pillows

http://www.jimchines.com/2013/06/roundup-of-some-anonymous-protesters-sfwa-bulletin-links/

http://www.maryrobinettekowal.com/journal/dear-twelve-rabid-weasels-of-sfwa-please-shut-the-fuck-up/?doing_wp_cron=1374954571.6634469032287597656250

http://www.jimchines.com/2013/08/sexual-harassment-conversations-in-comic-form/

http://whatever.scalzi.com/2013/07/03/my-convention-harassment-policy-co-sign-thread/

http://www.jimchines.com/2011/12/sexual-harassment-intervention/

http://www.jimchines.com/2011/12/sexual-harassment/

http://www.jimchines.com/2012/09/crap-people-say-about-sexual-harassment/

http://seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com/519653.html

http://www.cheriepriest.com/2013/06/28/maybe-its-just-us/

http://www.maryrobinettekowal.com/journal/why-am-i-afraid-to-name-the-editor/?doing_wp_cron=1376351642.4084720611572265625000

http://mariadahvanaheadley.wordpress.com/2013/06/28/but-he-didnt-know-he-was-hijacking-your-ship-on-conference-creeps/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ3EMTDuu-M&feature=share

http://whatever.scalzi.com/2013/08/05/a-creators-note-to-gatekeepers/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJY7kCKaxzE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEY5Vv0AvvA

http://bgzstudios.com/blog/photography/heroes-of-copyright-infringement-the-photographer-litigation-against-syfy/

Hand Sewn Buttonholes

I spent the day finishing up my pants.  All that remains is buttons and hemming.

I did a lot of hand-buttonholes today, what with the two closure buttons and five fly buttons.

Hand buttonholes are really easy and they don't really take that long.  It's rather relaxing once you get the rhythm of it.  Here are some links to tutorials on how to do hand buttonholes:

http://www.craftstylish.com/item/42556/how-to-hand-sew-a-buttonhole/page/all

http://bygumbygolly.com/2013/09/buttonholes-by-hand-vintage-sewing/

http://www.afashionablestitch.com/2011/inspiring_me/how-to-make-hand-worked-buttonholes/

http://oldfashionedbastards.wordpress.com/2013/04/04/hand-stitching-tutorial-buttonholes/

Welt Pockets

Working on my Morning Dress today.  I made two pretty wicked welt pockets on the backs, with matching welts and everything.  I'm super proud of them:

Want to know how I did it?  Here are the links I used, along with the instructions in Vogue 2383, which is the pant pattern I'm using (although I've heavily modified it, it's almost unrecognizable now).

http://www.palmerpletsch.com/handouts/No-FailDoubleWeltPocket.pdf

http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/12/pockets-xxii-double-welt-pockets.html

http://www.fashionsewingblog.com/sewing-easy-double-welt-pockets/

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Library

The Met has put up some of their out-of-print books online to read for free.  Here are some of interest to costumers:


The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789–1815
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/The_Age_of_Napoleon_Costume_from_Revolution_to_Empire_1789_1815?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

 

 American Ingenuity: Sportswear, 1930s–1970s
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/American_Ingenuity_Sportswear_1930s_1970s?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

 Ancient Peruvian Mantles, 300 B.C.–A.D. 200
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Ancient_Peruvian_Mantles_300_BC_AD_200?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Bare Witness: Clothing and Nudity
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Bare_Witness_Clothing_and_Nudity?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Bloom! (A Celebration of Flowers in Fashion)
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Bloom?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

The Ceaseless Century: Three Hundred Years of Eighteenth-Century Costume
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/The_Ceaseless_Century_Three_Hundred_Years_of_Eighteenth_Century_Costume?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Christian Dior
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Christian_Dior?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Heroic Armor of the Italian Renaissance: Filippo Negroli and his Contemporaries
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Heroic_Armor_of_the_Italian_Renaissance_Filippo_Negroli_and_his_Contemporaries?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

History of Russian Costume from the Eleventh to the Twentieth Century
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/History_of_Russian_Costume_from_the_Eleventh_to_the_Twentieth_Century?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

The Imperial Style: Fashions of the Hapsburg Era
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/The_Imperial_Style_Fashions_of_the_Hapsburg_Era?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Infra-Apparel
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Infra_Apparel?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Islamic Jewelry in The Metropolitan Museum of Art
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Islamic_Jewelry_in_The_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

La Belle Époque
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/La_Belle_Epoque?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Madame Grès
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Madame_Gres?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Cochineal Red: The Art History of a Color
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Cochineal_Red_the_art_history_of_a_color?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Dangerous_Liaisons_Fashion_and_Furniture_in_the_Eighteenth_Century?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Early Indonesian Textiles from Three Island Cultures
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Early_Indonesian_Textiles_from_Three_Island_Cultures?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

The Eighteenth-Century Woman
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/The_Eighteenth_Century_Woman?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

From Queen to Empress: Victorian Dress, 1837–1877
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/From_Queen_to_Empress_Victorian_Dress_1837_1877?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Haute Couture
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Haute_Couture?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Metropolitan Jewelry
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Metropolitan_Jewelry?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Orientalism_Visions_of_the_East_in_Western_Dress?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990s
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Our_New_Clothes_Acquisitions_of_the_1990s?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Two by Two (Menswear coupled with Women's wear)
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Two_by_Two?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Waist Not: The Migration of the Waist, 1800–1960
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Waist_Not_The_Migration_of_the_Waist_1800_1960?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

When Silk Was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/When_Silk_Was_Gold_Central_Asian_and_Chinese_Textiles?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=

Wordrobe
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/Wordrobe?Tag=&title=&author=&pt=&tc=&dept=










This isn't counting the numerous books on paintings, drawings, sculpture, tapestry, and others that can depict costume or inspire an idea.  Go check it out: 
http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/titles-with-full-text-online?searchtype=F&rpp=12&pg=1

Dictionary of Textiles

A question came up on h-costume about what a historical textile (dogskin) really was. Fun with google search led me to this awesome resource:

http://books.google.com/books?id=LVEhAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA54&lpg=PA54&dq=%22dogskin%22+fabric&source=bl&ots=mV8mI5GYs1&sig=AcqZpxQYd5XpfXCfX5ZVXDC4Ovw&hl=en&ei=4sCtTrHFMafq0gG1yozGDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CFUQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=%22dogskin%22%20fabric&f=false

It's a scan of a 1912 dictionary of fabrics. Really interesting to peruse, and you can download a pdf to read offline. If you use it on Google you also have a search box so if you come across something in Victorian or Edwardian costume research this could be a big help!

Historical Research Tools

Have you heard of Pinterest? I think it's a great tool for historical research. Pinterest is kinda like a bookmarking service for internet pictures. When I find a picture while researching something I click a button I added to my toolbar that says "Pin it". It pulls up all the pictures on the page and asks me which one is the important one to keep. Then in a pop-up I can label the picture with what it is, what time it is, where it is, whatever's important to remember. I can also file it on a pinboard to further categorize things. Right now on my Pinterest account I have the following historical boards:

Bustle Dresses
1910-20
1820-39
1860's
1840's

If you see a picture you like when you're browsing a board you can click on it and it will take you back to the original page so you can get more information. You can also take pictures you like that someone else has pinned and add them to boards of your own, an easy way to share research with other people. My research is extant garments from museums, but you could also pin portraits and artwork or other people's reproductions if you use them for inspiration. You can make a project board, too, and pin all the materials you use so that if someone is interested in where you got that trim they can use your pinboard to find the original site. People can friend accounts, so we can keep track of each others' research and make re-pinning and sharing amongst us easier, and you can comment on pins so that as people are following along they can say things like "this is an example of a day dress, not evening wear" or even "I think you'd look great in this color!" Finally, I'm loving it because it saves hard drive space. You don't have to save all those pictures to your hard drive or upload them to flickr, you just click to add it to your account, so it's easy and accessible to you and the community.

Pinterest works better when more people are networking in it, so I hope some of you consider joining. I know it gives out invites, but mine took less than a week so please don't let that stop you! And if you do join, please let me know so I can add you :D

Cool Links I Found This Week

The Vintage Fashion Guild Forums have reopened

How to make Steampunk Goggles at Instructables

How to sew Slotted Seams at Adventures of a Costumer

Anime "Whooshy" Swords tutorial at Triene's Cosplay Blog

Greg Aronowitz talks about how he made Felicia Day's Dragon Age miniseries costume

Casting About has wonderful casting tutorials and FAQs

Komickrazi on LiveJournal shows how he made his fursuit head

Another post on the LJ fursuiter community has great ideas for putting soles on things

Here's a cheap (comparatively) place for military braid

Dyeing Links

Links from the Dyeing Handout and mentioned by panelists during the Dyeing panel at DragonCon.

Dye Manufacturers:

http://www.dylon.co.uk/
http://www.ritdye.com/
http://www.jacquardproducts.com/products/dyes/procionmx/

Other Good Dyeing Links:

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing.shtml
http://www.costumes.org/ADVICE/1pages/dyepaintlinks.htm
http://www.masterstech-home.com/The_Sewing_Room/Articles/FabricDyeSafety.html
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Fabric/FabricDyeing.htm
http://quilt.com/FAQS/FabricDyingFAQ.html
http://www.thecraftstudio.com/qwc/resources/dyeing.html
http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/teadye.htm
http://little-mysteries.blogspot.com/2007/08/tutorial-tea-dying-fabric.html
http://www.quilt.com/FAQS/TeaDyingFAQ.html

Dye History Links:

http://www.straw.com/sig/dyehist.html
http://www.quilthistory.com/dye.htm
http://realcolorwheel.com/1artists.htm
http://www.smith.edu/hsc/silk/papers/dorner.html
http://www.harmonytie-dyes.com/_special/history.html
http://www.colorantshistory.org/
http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/dyeing.html

Dyeing Books:

Wild Color by Jenny Dean
The Chemistry of Natural Dyes by Dianne N. Epp
Fabric Dyer's Dictionary by Linda Johansen
Fabric Dyeing For Beginners by Vimala McClure
Dyes & Paints: A Hands-On Guide to Coloring Fabric by Elin Noble
Fabric Dyeing and Printing by Kate Wells

"Steampunk Your Props" Resources

This is a list of resources mentioned at the "Steampunk Your Props" panel at Worldcon on Thursday August 18.

Vintagejewelrysupplies.com - brass findings
1000 Steampunk Creations - book
Steampunk Emporium - book and site
Steamfashion on LiveJournal
Brass Goggles forum
E6000 - wonderful glue
thistothat.com - website for glue info
GS Hypo Cement - glue
Fire Mountain Gems - beads and findings, tools and glues, etc
Restoration Hardware - furniture brass findings
Crafter's Goop - glue
Tim Holtz - brand name for scrapbook gears/keyholes
model railroad stores - good resources
Electrique Boutique - cheap shoes
Fluevogs - expensive shoes
Gentleman's Emporium - great site for all things steamy