Crochet Scale Pouch Pattern

I recently made another big order from The Ring Lord, and decided to splurge on some scales planning to use them in crochet. Haven't done that yet. These are small aluminum tags from The Ring Lord. They come about 500 to a bag which is enough to make 2 of these little pouches which would be excellent for a small amount of dice or as a little bag to tie to a belt to hold money at a Ren Faire. Look under Blanks and Tags.

You will need:

• Size 10 crochet cotton
• Size 5 crochet hook 
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends
• 1 package of small aluminum tags from The Ring Lord- I used Frost

Start by stringing 225 tags on the thread. These are crocheted in as you go. If you don't want to count 225 tags, count 25, measure that, and string on a bit over 9 times that number in length. Because of the large hole in these tags (large by the standards of a beader who's done a lot of dental floss bead threading on crochet cottons) you can actually just put the tapestry needle on the thread and string them directly on. Unwind a bit of thread and push them down the crochet thread and rewind it on the ball.

Stitches-

dc= double crochet

sc=single crochet

tagged sc= single crochet with a tag

ch= chain 

sl st= slip stitch

st or sts= stitch or stitches

repeat ** around = Repeat what is between the asterisks until you get to the starting stitch of the round.

tagged sc= insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull loop through stitch, leaving two loops on the hook. Slide tag up the thread to the stitch, yarn over, pull thread through both loops. 

Quick note on starting rounds- I don't like using chains to start single crochet rounds. They aren't the same size as a single crochet, and I prefer the look of a tight ch, then single crochet in that stitch. Generally it's not a big deal if you do it the way you are used to doing it for my patterns, but in this case, it's essential to do that way because the tags are set up to alternate columns which means some rounds start with a tagged single crochet. For starting dc rounds, I generally do 1 tight single crochet and 2 normal single crochets. If you prefer starting DC rounds differently, do them the way you prefer.

Base of pouch:

Round 1: Ch 4, 9 dc in starting ch, sl st to 4th ch to join. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3(counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to 3rd ch to join. (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3(counts as first dc), 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* , repeat ** around, sl st in 3rd ch to join. (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3(counts as first dc), dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, *dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to 3rd ch to join. (40 stitches)

Round 5: Ch 3(counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next st, dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to 3rd ch to join (50 dc)

Scale part of the pouch:

The scales are offest by one column, and have one plain row between them. This diagram shows the placement as an example.

Round 6: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, sl st to first st to join.

Round 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in same stitch, tagged sc in next stitch, *sc in next st, tagged sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to first stitch to join

Round 8: Repeat round 6.

Round 9: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), tagged sc in same stitch, sc in next stitch, *tagged sc in next st, sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to first stitch to join. 

Repeat Rounds 6-9  3 times 

Round 17- repeat round 6

Round 18- repeat round 7

Round 19- repeat round 6

Scales done!

Top of pouch:

Round 20: ch 3, dc in each stitch around, sl st to 3rd ch to join. 

Rounds 21-24: repeat round 20

Round 25: ch 3, dc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 sts, *dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 3*, repeat ** around, sl st to 3rd ch to join.

Round 26: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join.

Make 2 cords and weave them through row 25. You can either chain cords, use ribbons or make monk's cord. My example uses monk's cord. 

The technique is easy, and if you want a bigger pouch, just plan accordingly. So if you went with a base that was 80 stitches around, you would need 40 tags per scale row, and you'd want more rows of them probably. 

Oh, this has nothing to do with the crochet project, but The Ring Lord also has rings of course and kits! One of the things I ordered was the juggling ball kit for my son and he made this lovely set of juggling balls for Michael for Father's Day! The instructions are well written, and the project itself is no-sew. 

Crochet change purse pattern

This crochet change purse is closed with an internal flex frame. The alternates rows of slip stitch with rows made up of slip stitch, single crochet and half double crochets (American terminology). The slip stitch rows cause a nice thin ribbed effect on one side of the fabric. It's crocheted flat, then seamed up the side. A second piece is made for the top to case the frame.

I chose Eco-Cotton Blend by Red Heart because it's a nice medium weight yarn that's a bit thinner than the kitchen cottons and won't stretch badly out of shape. It's made pre-consumer recycled cotton remnants from tee-shirt production in the USA blended with acrylic.

You will need:

• Eco-Cotton by Red Heart
• Size G hook
• Yarn Needle
• 3.5 inch internal flex frame
• pliers

Stitch abbreviations- American terminology

• ch= chain
• sl st= slip stitch
• sc= single crochet
• hdc= half double crochet
• st or sts= stitch or stitches

Internal frames come open, and you have to close them with the included pins. They are generally inserted into sewn casings. Because of the bulkiness of crocheted fabric, trying to insert them in crocheted casings was difficult and worked best making the top a bit short. Instead, I close the frames, then open them up and slide the pouch inside the frame, get it aligned right, then stitch the top part of the casing over it. 

To close the frame, first you use the pliers to fold one of the tabs over, then close the frame so the hinge overlaps, and put the pin in. Fold down the top tab to lock the pin in.

The pouch:

Chain 30 loosely. Leave a long enough tail for one side seam (about 12 inches)

Row 1: ch 1 to turn (does not count as first stitch here or throughout), slip stitch down the length of the chain

Row 2:  ch 1 to turn, sl st in first 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 10 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in last 5 sts

Row 3: ch 1 to turn, sl st in each st

Rows 4-27: Repeat rows 2 and 3

Break off leaving a long tail for the side seam.

Decide which side you want on the outside. Fold in half, narrow ends together, and stitch side seams leaving the narrow end open. Make sure you stitch and knot securely. 

Open the frame and slide it in the frame, aligning it so the top is just outside the top of the frame and it's stretched out across the inside of the frame.

Ch 4

Row 1: ch 1 to turn, sc across each stitch

Row 2: ch 1 to turn, sl st across each stitch

Rows 3-36: Repeat rows 1 and 2

Break off.

Fold around top of the pouch, and stitch the top in place to the top of the pouch. Be careful to only go through one layer of stitches on the pouch so you don't accidentally sew it closed! Ease as necessary to fit. When you get to the open ends, stitch them shut, then open the frame with your fingers, and stitch the bottom of the outside casing in place. Make sure you stitch and knot securely. 

Weave in all ends. 

You can find 3.5 inch internal frames on both Etsy and Ebay. 

Skull Knitting Pattern

In the next few weeks, I'm working on getting a lot of projects from my old LiveJournal posted up here for people who didn't see them the first time around.
This is from September 29, 2008

My first stranded knitting- A dice pouch made on homemade DPNs. No pattern, but the chart for the skull.

"Actually, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I only used two colors, and some of my floats were pretty long, so I wrapped? twisted? whatever.. them every 3 stitches, and it turned out pretty okay.
Even though my 2 yarns were a bit different weights. And it was acrylic yarn because I didn't see the point of using cotton with the gitd yarn which is acrylic."

Why is the first picture greyscaled? Because I'm lazy. I accidentally hit the color correction on the camera and it came out *BLUE* so I adjusted it a bit and then greyscaled it. But you get the general idea right?
The great big skulls are Halloween decorations, I picked up a "bag of skulls" then drilled them with my little hand drill and a largish bit. 
The chart as I did it.

The chart as I'd do it again if I did it a second time.

Now the hard question, which kid is gonna snag the glow in the dark skull pouch? Because one will. I know that."

As it turned out, my son wound up with the pouch. He has a few dice pouches, not all of them filled with dice. I think his current dice pouch is a crocheted eyeball pouch that I made him. 

Crocheted Pendant Pouch- pattern

This is a pendant pouch that I made for my son. The rocks in it are supposed to encourage creativity- the set was put together by my friend Cat. She works the stone department at my local bead store, Black Elk Leather, Beads and Stones. They do mail order, and she puts together sets for various things. They are inexpensive (the set above was 2.25) . You can call the store and ask to speak to Cat, if she's not too busy, she'll tell you what she has available and how much it will cost. If you're in Alaska, go in and say hi to her next time your in Anchorage! (The stones are on the far left from the entrance. You'll have to pass Teri in beads, so say hi to her as well, and check out any beadwork she has on display.)

The pouch, made for my texture loving son, has a very simple spiraled texture, you can see the ridges on the photo above.

Crochet Pendant Pouch Pattern
American terminology used.
You will need:
Size 10 thread
Size 7 hook
Tapestry needle with a big enough eye for the thread to weave in ends
Scissors

Stitches:
ch=chain
sc=single crochet
dc=double crochet
hdc=half double crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st= stitch

Where it says "repeat ** around" that means repeat the instructions between the *asterisks* for the round until you reach the first stitch. It's a common instruction you'll find in a lot of crochet patterns.

Each round starts with a tight chain that does not count as the first stitch. I've found it makes a neater seam for me. If you prefer to start rounds with chains that count as the first stitch, do that.

Ch 2 or magic ring and ch 1
Round 1: 6 sc in first ch or magic ring, sl st to join (6 sts)
Round 2: (ch 1) 2 sc in each stitch around, sl st to join (12 sts)
Round 3: (ch 1) sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* - repeat ** around, sl st to join (18 sts)
Round 4: (ch 1) sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*- repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)
Round 5: (ch 1) sc in first st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*  repeat ** around, sl st to join (30 sts)
Round 6: (ch 1) sc in first st, sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* , repeat ** around, sl st to join (36 sts)
(base done)

Round 7: (ch 1) sc in first st, double crochet in next st, sc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next st,* repeat ** around, sl st to join
Round 8: (ch 1) sc in first st, sc in next st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, sc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join
Round 9: (ch 1) dc in first sc, sc in next st, sc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join

Round 10: Repeat Round 7
Round 11: Repeat Round 8
Round 12: Repeat Round 9

Round 13: Repeat Round 7
Round 14: Repeat Round 8
Round 15: Repeat Round 9

Round 16: Repeat Round 7
Round 17: Repeat Round 8
Round 18: Repeat Round 9

Round 19: Repeat Round 7
Round 20: Repeat Round 8
Round 21: Repeat Round 9

Round 22: Repeat Round 7
Round 23: (ch 1) hdc in st, ch 1, skip stitch *hdc in next st, ch 1, skip stitch*, repeat ** around, sl st to join.

Break off thread and weave in ends.

To make the strap, I single crocheted a length long enough to fit over his head with a couple inches to spare, then slip stitches down the length of the strap, wove it through the ch 1 spaces on the pouch, and then put one end on the needle and pulled it through the other end, tied a firm knot in the ends, and wove in both ends.

If you want to make a smaller pouch, start the pattern at round 6 instead of round 7, and work less rounds for the pattern.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!