Book Review- Buffi's Dress Design

If you like to sew, and are ready to take it to the next level and start making your own patterns, this is a great book. 

The author assumes that you know the very basics of sewing, how to thread your machine, and do straight and zig zag stitches. If you don't, that information will be in your owner's manual. After that, she teaches you from the ground up. She explains how to get your fabric on grain, how to finish seams nicely, what slopers are, how to take proper measurements and customize one to fit, and how they are used in pattern creation. She takes you step by step through all the processes in a nice, organized way that's easy to read with lots of pictures. The introduction also talks about body types and gives suggestions from projects in the book for the best silhouettes to flatter those types.

Three basic slopers are included for 3 dress styles- sheath, shift and princess seamed. A shift fits loosely, and is more fitted to the shoulders and bust than to the waist and hips, a sheath is fitted more closely, princess seams are the dresses with 2 fitted seams in the front for a very nice and very feminine fit. 

Each dress style has 3 variations in the projects. The author explains how to create the patterns using the slopers you made to fit you just perfectly. A lot of the dresses maybe on the short side for some people, but lengthening is fairly simple, just remember to buy more yardage than recommended if you are lengthening the dress. The styles have a wonderful range, there are very tailored pieces and dresses that are more flowing and softer. All the instructions with the diagrams are clear and understandable. For techniques you may not have used before like applying interfacings- there are instructions in the book.

The last chapter is designs made from thrifted clothing, remaking the old into something new. It's got some great ideas for that formal dress you found at a thrift store that had a fabulous retro fabric and not so fabulous lines, or even turning a couple pairs of jeans into a very cute dress for summer. 

One of my favorite things about this book is that dress styles themselves are classic. They take a note from the past and you can see the influence of other decades in the lines. They are made from more contemporary colors and trimmings, but the fact that a wrap dress is just as wearable now as it was in the 80s, or a shift with lines that wouldn't have looked out of place in the 60s would be cute at a party today proves the timelessness of the designs. 

Absolutely recommended, and it's going up on my shelf with my vintage Vogue sewing books and other favorite references for sewing. 

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I received a complimentary copy of this book to review, I received no other compensation, and my review is my honest opinion of the book. You can read more about my review policy here.

Book Review- Improv Sewing

Improv Sewing by Nicole Blum and Debra Immergut is a collection of projects and patterns that you can make on the fly and sew using a standard sewing machine.

It's my favorite kind of sewing book. It doesn't depend on couture techniques or fussy cut detailed patterns. The patterns are made of simple lines and easy to create in the size you need. They leave some things unhemmed because knits don't come unraveled. Lots of embellishment techniques to create a look for yourself, your child or your home that's unique and artistic.

It starts with an introduction to fabric types and tips for sewing using a sewing machine with those fabrics, how to clip seams , use foldover elastic and ideas for thrift store shopping.

The instructions are very complete. If you're a novice sewer, you'll want to read through the chapters in order to understand how to put together the basic patterns before you get into the embellishments.

The clothes I wear the most are comfortable jersey knit skirts and dresses, and I like things that are easy to make and can be made with thrifted finds. Chapter 2 is Finding Your Fit- starting with how to take measurements, then using a well-fitting teeshirt your willing to cut up to use to make basic patterns. You will learn how to make a pattern for an a-line skirt that will fit perfectly with an elasticized waistband and how to make dress patterns with different necklines  using the teeshirt pieces. The patterns use jersey knits for easy sewing.

Chapter 3 is Five Basic Designs. While there are several projects for children in this book, these patterns are for adults. They explain different sleeve types, and the patterns are easy wear casual pieces with lots of style. Tunics that can be dresses and skirts that could easily become wardrobe staples. Two of the skirts use woven fabrics. My favorite is the three panel wrap skirt.

In Chapter 4, Ruffles, Pleats and Trims, you'll use your basic pattern pieces with techniques like ruffles, ruching, shirring, binding and pleats to make dresses and shirts. My favorite project in this chapter is a toss up between the very feminine ruffled dressy dress and the ruffled wrap.

Chapter 5, Lines, uses lines of thread machine sewn for embellishing. This chapter has some clothing, but it also has a bunch of great home accessories that also make good gifts. My favorite projects are the nesting boxes made of canvas with great contrasting thread details and the meandering cardigan made from an old long sleeve teeshirt.

Chapter 6, Doodling, Sketching and Writing, doodle stitching with your sewing machine. Creating images and designs, this chapter has an introduction which explains the basic method. There are great home decor projects in this chapter, as well as a tubular constructed sun dress with a nice detail of leaf embroidery. My favorite projects are the fiddlehead dress with it's delicately spiraled fiddlehead fern shapes, and the potluck dish cover.

Chapter 7, Applique, has both regular applique and reverse applique projects. The scarf from the cover is in this chapter. My favorite projects are the colorful All-Weather Applique Mobile, and the easy to sew Hoodie Scarf which also makes a wonderful gift.

Chapter 8 , Stenciling, one of my favorite techniques, these are freezer paper stencils for nice sharp lines. A monogrammed shaving pouch that makes a nice gift for men and a soft knit wrap skirt stenciled with an umbrella are my favorites from this chapter.

Chapter 9 , Beyond Fabric, is non-fabrics. Sewn paper, plastic, cork, Tyvek and vinyl. I love the pencil pouch that could be made using a favorite sketch and the wind spinner made from card stock.

Chapter 10 is Upcyling! One of my favorite things in the world. Felted sweaters make long mitts, cotton fabric from old shirts and dresses to make very pretty potholders and other wonderful projects. My favorite is the wrap skirt made from 3 men's dress shirts.

Chapter 11 is Instant Gifts, Instant Gratification, super quick to sew items that make great gifts for friends on short notice. These use techniques from the previous chapters to make small, fun gifts. The loose leaf paper machine stitched to look like notebook paper can be hand embroidered with your personal note. I like the idea of stitching that with something like "Michael + Shala= True Love 4-ever" for a newly married couple. The jersey shawl is really easy to make and customize and that's my other favorite project from this chapter.

It finishes nicely with the templates for the decorations, a resources list and a complete index.

Published by Storey Publishing.

I received a complimentary copy of this book to review, my reviews are always my personal and honest opinion. You can read more about my review policy here.

Classic vs. Not

Yesterday I took TG to the thrift store. She was thrilled to find a nice big bag of fabric scraps for herself. She uses them to make her dolls and other things. I was thrilled to find some wonderful craft books and magazines in the era I most like. The 70s!

As I was leafing through the 1971-1972 Fall Goodhousekeeping Needlecraft magazine, my family had a conversation about classic vs not classic. How can you tell the difference? Vintage magazines are a great way. Is something still wearable today? Sometimes you have to look past the colors, and the accessories or look at things as separates to know if the lines and style are still wearable today. Other times you know instantly either way. Click on images to see larger, all images from the magazine I mentioned above.

This coat has wonderful lines for the under 25 set. My daughter is charmed by it. Not in those colors, I think if she decides to make it, she'll make it in Tom Baker scarf type colors. The soft hood and simple shape would also look good in a solid color. 

 This one, I have mixed feelings about. I love the sweep, and the lines remind me a lot of the capes my mother wore to great effect. Unfortunately, at 5'3.5" I'm too short for anything that dramatic, it would look like I left the house wearing a blanket. Check out those gloves! Aren't they great? The bobble edging on the cape adds a lovely amount of visual and textural interest. The colors, well. Not so much, maybe a medium grey with pewter grey and crimson?

Not classic. I love various elements of this, the button detailing, the hood, the striping, but it's really, really not classically wearable. Ponchos come in and out, but that one does look very much like a blanket.

 Oh the horror of knitted pants! I'm pretty sure that's always going to be a very bad idea. And the color is a mucky orange. The other outfit is a skirt and cardigan set. Taken by individual elements, I don't like the skirt or pants. The cardigan and pull over sweaters are nice. I'd lengthen the sleeves on the pullover and probably get rid of the bottom hem cables on the pullover for a straight bottom. The cable border detail with it's honeycomb effect is very pretty though. The cape doesn't work for me either. I like capes but that one isn't fitted right around the shoulders and is very boxy looking.

Oh lovely. Again, if you aren't a bright color sort, picture it with less going on for color. This dress has lovely classic lines and would look great with tights in black with jewel tone stripe detailing, or just a solid color.

Not classic. This coat is made by creating yarn loops as you knit, then after you're done, combing or brushing the loops to break up the twist and create a fur effect. It's a fun idea for a stuffed animal, doesn't work as well in a coat.

Classic- Sweater. Not Classic- those shorts!

The sweater is nice, the crocheted sash is fun, and I could totally see my daughter wearing something like that. The "funnel hood" is knit in Quaker rib and it's not really a classic design that's been wearable for the last 40 years since the magazine came out, but it *is* an idea that's come back around as a trend. The knitted gauchos though? Really didn't age well. I think maybe just any kind of pant thing knitted might be a bad idea.

Just.. wow. The colors, the lines, everything about this outfit. It doesn't age well at all does it? The great big checks with smaller checks in some of the big checks is a neat pattern. Maybe better for decorating than for clothing.

LOVE this simple teeshirt dress with it's bold graphic design. I think I'd like to make a custom fabric print on Spoonflower to make something like this dress with.  In the case of this dress, it's sewn with striped fabric and applique circles. Doing a custom fabric removes the need for applique for that same kind of bold style.

Book Review- All Dolled Up

All Dolled Up by Joan Hinds

This collection of clothing designs for 18 inch dolls and their owners is charming and sweet. The part that impresses me most is the simplicity of construction. Joan Hinds has streamlined a lot of techniques for this collection.

The collection includes dresses, skirts, aprons and accessories as well as tips for scaling designs to suit dolls and girls both. Even the most complicated outfits wouldn't take more than a couple days to make and many of them could be done in an evening.

Skirts include a darling pleated skirt sewn on a pair of old jeans with a matching vest and a tiered gathered skirt.The dresses are wonderful. There is a simple jumper set that's just too cute made with the right fabrics.

The techniques include a method for making straps that doesn't use interfacing and an alternative to basting to gather fabric that is very clever and quick. 

The included video shows the sewing techniques that you'll be using to sew the outfits. Nancy Zieman hosts the video with Joan Hinds. 

Many of the techniques and patterns are things that can be very easily sized up so that Mom and daughter can having matching aprons or dresses and match the doll as well.

It also makes a wonderful introduction to sewing for children who are just getting interested in learning how to use a sewing a machine. The adult can sew the child's dress, and help the child with sewing a matching outfit for their doll. 

A lot of the clothes remind me of the things my mom used to make for me when I was 7 or 8. Classic designs that have stood the test of time, so if you do invest in the book,it's not unthinkable that you would make some of the same styles of clothes for your granddaughter that you might make for your daughter. 

You can get the book directly from the publisher at MyCraftivity.com or you can get it from Amazon here (Amazon is an affiliate link).