A Breakfast Teaser.

For the past few months, Roy and I have been traveling in, and around, San Juan County to find, and dine on, breakfast.  Just as I think we are done, someone will mention another restaurant that, “You just have to try!”  So, that article is still in its developmental stage, but hopefully will appear in a June issue of the San Juan Record.

Until then, I think a little teaser about breakfast would be a good introduction.  The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines breakfast as: “1. the first meal of the day especially when taken in the morning. 2. the food prepared for a breakfast. eat your breakfast.”  The 1st definition seems to be worldwide; the 2^nd?  Why do dictionaries define a word, using the same word? Before I digress further, while the intent of a breakfast is to feed the body upon waking, it goes further than that nowadays.  Having “breakfast” food for brunch, lunch or dinner is not unusual any longer.  Workers of 2^nd and 3^rd shifts come home in the early morning hours, and what is there to eat?  Breakfast! 

Why is breakfast so important?  According to medical studies, it breaks the body’s fasting during overnight sleep.  It jump starts metabolism, helps the body burn more calories during the day, and basically is the fuel to get you moving.  According to an article, written by Christy C. Tangney, PhD, a professor of clinical nutrition at Rush University Medical Center, Chicago, IL,

“Various studies have found different benefits of starting your day with breakfast, including:

    Having a lower BMI

    Consuming less fat through the day

    Meeting recommendations for fruit and vegetable consumption

    Having higher daily calcium intake

    Having higher daily fiber intake

    Having better performance (memory and attention) (for school-aged children)”

Worldwide, what the residents of one country, or culture, refer to as breakfast, may seem very unusual to the country/culture of another.  In America, the usual staples are: eggs, a protein (sausage, bacon, ham), cheese, pancakes, waffles, oatmeal, toast and potatoes (hash browns or home fries).  Now take, for example, Japan where the morning meal consists of: grilled fish, steamed rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables.  For us, here in the USA, sounds more like a lunch or dinner; but it is simply what makes the world go round…cultural diversity.

…and guess what, depending on where you live, or were born and raised, the breakfast you enjoy having might be seen as “foreign” in other states.  In the south, and many of the southwestern states, a typical breakfast would be biscuits and gravy, country fried steak, chicken and waffles, and a side of grits instead of potatoes.  The southwestern states also have a huge influence from Mexico, so do not be surprised to see some type of breakfast burrito, huevos rancheros, and green chili on the menu.

 

In the tri-states of New York, New Jersey and Connecticut, the full-on breakfast was usually eggs, potatoes, meat, toast and pancakes; the “heart attack” special.   

 

Heart Attack Special

Full Breakfast with Hash Browns

However, the breakfast that all high school and college students, and workers of every class were drawn to the most was, the breakfast sandwich.  A kaiser roll (poppy seed covered), buttered and browned on the grill, along side two frying eggs, bacon; then topped with melting cheese, ketchup, salt and pepper.  Oh yes, coffee was a must, and those who asked for tea got a very strange look from the guys behind the counter.

 

Buttered Roll Toasting Next to Frying Eggs.

All the Ingredients Ready to be Put Together.

The Breakfast Sandiwich.

So, consider this a breakfast teaser, something to get your mind focused on my upcoming article, “Breakfast In, and Around, San Juan County”.  Oh, while you are thinking, do not be surprised if your mouth starts watering, since your taste buds just woke up and are hungry for breakfast.

Mary Cokenour

Christening the New Gas Range.

What exactly is comfort food?  I am not going to look up an official definition; I do not believe there should be one.  Comfort food should be exactly what it is called; a food that brings comfort.  That means something different to everyone for the most part; memories from childhood, or learning to cook by a loved one's side; or even cooking a meal for someone you love for the very first time.  It is food that not only feeds the body, but the mind and soul.  Comfort food can be as simple as a tuna fish sandwich, or as complicated as Beef Wellington; it has a special meaning for the person eating it, as well as the person who made it.

Being woken up around 3am, I noticed a brilliant light coming in through an opening in the curtains. There, sitting upon the roof of my shed was a full moon.   As usual, the full moon out here is huge; one could imagine just reaching up and plucking it out of the sky; it looks that close.  However, it now had an aura surrounding it that traveled outward till it was finally swallowed up by the dark; an amazing sight.  This is one of the things, that I cherish, living out here; the lack of artificial lighting, so I can see the true essence of the moon and stars.

What has all this to do with comfort food? The ideal of comfort of course; that the sight of the moon’s glow could be such a peaceful experience.  Ah-ha, but now for some excitement, well, for me at least.  My new gas range which I named “Darth Vader” was being delivered on the weekend, and my mind was racing, “How do I christen it?”  What kind of dish, stove top or oven, to make that would do a welcoming justice to this new appliance.  Yes, I am weird, you all should be over that fact by now.

 

New Gas Range aka Darth Vader.

I suggested, to Roy, that I make my “heart attack” macaroni and cheese; a stove top dish using three to five cheeses, dependent on what types the store had in stock.  To which he replied, “Mac n’ cheese?  That’s so mundane.  Can’t you make something more exciting?”  Mundane?  Mac n’ cheese mundane?  I DO NOT DO MUNDANE!!!

Asking him to make a suggestion, he stated that I had not made Chicken Monterey in a very long time, and he would like that to be my first dish.  Now, I could have been petty, made a snide remark, or not make the dish at all, but why cut off my nose to spite my own face?

The ingredients were purchased to make Chicken Monterey, and while out, also the to make Chinese Roast Pork Buns, and…wait for it…macaroni and cheese!

 

What is Chicken Monterey anyway?  My recipe is just one version out of hundreds.  Historically, its origin has been claimed by restaurant chefs in Canada, chain restaurants like Bonanza Steakhouse and Chili’s, and private restaurants throughout the United States.  The origin of the cheese used, Monterey Jack, can be traced back to 18th-century Franciscan friars of Monterey, Alta California.

 

Chicken Monterey

 

Ingredients:

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1 cup barbeque sauce (KC Masterpiece, Bullseye or Sweet Baby Ray’s)

4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided in half

½ cup each green and red bell peppers, diced

½ cup onion, diced

½ cup mushrooms, diced

½ cup tomatoes, diced

4 slices Monterey Jack cheese

Finely chopped parsley, for garnish

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil, on medium-high heat, in a large skillet.  Brown both sides of the chicken breasts (about 2 minutes each side), but do not cook all the way through (cooking will finish in the oven). Remove chicken from skillet; pat dry. Brush both sides of chicken with barbeque sauce and set into an 8” x 8” baking dish (pre-sprayed with cooking spray). Pour remaining barbeque sauce on top of chicken in the dish.

While the chicken was browning; heat other 2 Tbsp. oil in a smaller skillet; set onto medium-high heat; put in the peppers and onion. When they just begin to soften, add the mushrooms, and let cook for another 2-3 minutes; do not let the vegetables brown. Remove from heat and add the tomatoes. Spoon the vegetable mixture on top of the chicken; top with cheese. Place into oven and let cook for 15-20 minutes; cheese will be bubbly, and chicken cooked through.

Remove to serving platter and sprinkle parsley on top.

Makes 4 servings.

Note: If the chicken breasts are very large and thick, cut in half lengthwise, adjust all ingredients accordingly, and there will be more servings available than the original four.

 

 

Creamy Macaroni and Cheese

(aka Heart Attack Mac n’ Cheese)

 

Ingredients:

4 cups uncooked large elbow macaroni

8 Tbsp. butter

8 Tbsp. flour

1 tsp. salt plus 2 Tbsp. 

½ tsp. ground black pepper 

1 cup milk

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup hot macaroni water

1/2 cup each goat cheese, shredded sharp cheddar, shredded Monterey Jack, shredded mild cheddar

Preparation:

In 3-quart pot, on high heat, bring water to boil for macaroni; add uncooked elbows to pot with 2 Tbsp. salt.  Cook until al dente (slightly firm).

In a 4-quart pot, melt butter over medium-high heat; stir flour into the butter until smooth and bubbly; stir in 1 tsp. salt and pepper. Switch to a whisk; gradually add milk and heavy cream, whisking constantly.   

Add ½ cup of cheese and whisk until well incorporated; repeat process until all four cheeses have been incorporated.  Take 1 cup of macaroni water from pot; whisk into cheese mixture; remove from heat.  Drain cooked macaroni, add to cheese mixture and mix well; cover and let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

Note: While this recipe is a stove top method, after combining the ingredients, it can all be transferred to a buttered casserole dish, topped with buttered, crushed bread crumbs, and baked (350F) till bubbly and golden brown.

 

So, the new gas range is christened with two dishes, Chicken Monterey for Roy, and Mac n’ cheese for me.  Definitely a delicious win-win christening.

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

 

 

Copycatting Papa John.

Time to copycat another food item, this time from Papa John's.  Papadias are inspired by the ‘piadina,’ an Italian folded flatbread sandwich from Northern Italy, but Papa John's uses their original pizza dough instead of flatbread.  Sort of like making a calzone, but not sealing the ends.

There are four varieties, each hand-stretched, oven-baked and hand-folded to order. 

1 - Italian: Italian flatbread-style sandwich made with Alfredo sauce, spicy Italian sausage, salami, real cheese made from mozzarella and banana peppers; served with a pizza sauce dipping cup.

2 - Philly Cheesesteak: Italian flatbread-style sandwich made with sliced Philly steak, fresh-cut onions and green peppers, real cheese made from mozzarella and "Philly" sauce; served with a garlic sauce dipping cup.

3 - Grilled BBQ Chicken & Bacon: Italian flatbread-style sandwich made with grilled chicken, bacon, fresh-cut onions and real cheese made from mozzarella, drizzled with sweet and smoky BBQ sauce; served with a BBQ sauce dipping cup.

4 - Meatball Pepperoni: Italian flatbread-style sandwich made with spicy meatballs, pepperoni, pizza sauce, real cheese made from mozzarella and classic Italian seasoning; served with a pizza sauce dipping cup.

With the name ending with "dia", you can't help but think, "quesadilla"?  Normally made with tortillas, a quesadilla has a filling (yes, you can use what's listened up above), placed on a grill; the tortilla is browned, folded, cut into sections, and ready to eat with a favorite dipping sauce, salsa, and/or guacamole.

When in the mood for pizza, but no fresh dough available, having a package of tortillas comes in handy for a quick, crispy pizza on the fly.  We keep Naan bread in stock as well, and it makes a pretty tasty, spontaneously in the mood for, pizza.

So, why not make one of these "Papadias", but using the original bread type, a flatbread, and that is what Naan is.  By the way, I named my version, MamaMiadias.

To keep ingredients from falling onto my oven bottom, I preheated (tempered) a 16 inch pizza pan, in the oven, at 425F.  Just in case any oils happen to leak through (holes in the bottom of the pan for air circulation), I also have a sheet of heavy duty foil on the oven's bottom.

American (left), Italian (right)

While preheating was going on, I prepped the Naan bread.  One was an American cheeseburger style, with seasoned, and cooked, ground beef (salt and cracked black pepper only), slices of bell peppers, onions and shredded Cheddar cheese.  

The second was an Italian style, with the cooked ground beef containing an Italian herb blend, the bell peppers and onions, diced tomatoes, but shredded mozzarella and provolone cheeses.

Once the oven hit 425F, I placed the prepped breads onto the pizza pan, popped it back into the oven (on the center rack), and let it bake for 15 minutes.  Once out of the oven, I quickly folded the breads and cut them in half.  

Holy Dias Batman!  They were so full of flavor and texture; no need to dip into a sauce, or add anything else.  We did try a couple of sauces, but they actually took away from the initial flavor instead of  enhancing.  This was a truly satisfying sandwich!

...and so, the MamaMiadia was born in the Cokenour kitchen.  Of course, Papa John's gets credit for introducing the idea, to us, via television commercials.

Mary Cokenour

Time to Think Amore’

Day after Christmas, and already stores were filling up aisles with gifts, candies and decorations for Valentine’s Day.  The New Year had not even been celebrated as yet, but we were being programmed to think about a future holiday.  Besides the required gifts to “prove undying love”, a romantic meal is also part of this holiday.  Many restaurants offer specials featuring expensive cuts of meat, or shipped in seafood like lobster.  You know, the types of foods only eaten for holidays and special occasions, where the amount spent equals the amount of love in the heart.

Equating love to a monetary value just does not sound right to me somehow.  However, throughout history, marriages were arranged between families.  Was this a form of keeping these families “pure” by purchasing the correct spouse?  However, women have always been looked upon as a type of commodity throughout history, and world cultures.  Either the groom’s family would pay a “bride price” to the intended bride’s family, or a dowry was offered to the groom’s family.  What is a dowry?  Basic definition is, “A dowry is a transfer of parental property, gifts, or money at the marriage of a daughter.”

Even in modern societies, it is often the bride and her family who foot the major portion of the wedding and reception costs

Whether wealthy or poor (does a middle class even exist any longer?), I believe love is measured in small ways.  The longing look, gentle touching of hands, a little nudge-nudge, wink-wink; an unexpected compliment, or sharing the last cookie while watching a movie.  Does not cost much, well excepting if the cookies are homemade or store bought.

Swinging back to the romantic meal aspect, not every couple can afford a fancy time out.  Does that diminish the value of Valentine’s Day?  Of course not!

Living in Monticello, the nearest Olive Garden is either in Grand Junction, Colorado (2 and 1/2 hours’ drive northeast), or Farmington, New Mexico (2 hours southeast).  Many people enjoy going to one of these when they are in one of those cities.  The commercials are often on television, and yes, we have gone there once in a while ourselves.

Readers of this food column, and people who I have cooked for, know I focus mainly on Italian cuisine.  So, seeing the latest "limited edition menu items" in recent commercials; had to admit that I wanted to try them.  Then I thought about the items, and realized they are pretty close to baked ziti, and another type of baked pasta casserole, made in the past.  In other words, I can make these new items at home, myself!  While my baked ziti and baked pasta casserole use a homemade tomato based sauce, these new dishes require an Alfredo sauce.

Now, and you know I do this, putting my own spin on a recipe is usually on my mind.  Olive Garden uses a "creamy seafood Alfredo sauce" for the shrimp casserole.  Well, I know how to make Alfredo sauce, and it uses loads of Parmesan cheese.  Smoked mozzarella is shredded and used as a topping.  Since this item is not easily found in any local markets, and traveling an hour away to a supermarket is time consuming, regular mozzarella will do.  However, adding it into the sauce, with the Parmesan, will result in a rich cheesy sauce.   Oh, leaving out the nutmeg as black pepper and garlic will be the main seasonings.

     

Baked Mozzarella Casserole

Ingredients:

 

1 bag (12 oz.) medium sized shrimp

1 bag (16 oz.) tortellini (frozen or dried)

1 can (15.5 oz.) diced tomatoes, rinse & thoroughly drain all excess liquid

8 Tbsp. butter

8 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

6 cups hot milk

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. ground black pepper

2 tsp. garlic powder

1 Tbsp. dried parsley leaves

Preparation:

Fill a 3 quart pot halfway with water, place on high heat.  While waiting for water to boil, clean shrimp; remove shells and devein.  When water begins to boil, add in tortellini and cook according to package directions.  Fit a metal colander over the pot, place shrimp inside, and steam until a light pinkish coloring.  Place shrimp, drained tortellini and tomatoes into large mixing bowl.

Preheat oven to 400F; spray sides and bottom of 2 quart baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.

In another 3 quart pot, heat the butter over medium heat until melted; gradually add the flour, stirring until smooth.  Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns a golden brown color, about 6 to 7 minutes; this is the roux.

Yes!  You can make the sauce, on the stove top, right next to the pot cooking the tortellini and steaming the shrimp.

Add the hot milk to the butter mixture one cup at a time; whisk continuously to avoid burning or clumping. When mixture is completely smooth, add the Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses, whisk until smooth again; remove from heat; season with salt, black pepper and garlic powder.

Pour cheese sauce over contents in large bowl, mix thoroughly and spoon into baking dish and sprinkle with parsley.  Place dish in oven and bake for 15-20 minutes; edges around contents, and on the top will be slightly browned, and cheese bubbling.  Remove from oven and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Makes 6 servings.

In case you are wondering, I rinse and drain the tomatoes as I do not want all that red liquid to dilute the cheese sauce, or turn it red.  The shrimp, parsley, and the tomatoes themselves should be the eye catchers throughout the white pasta and cheese sauce.

Now if shrimp is not a favorite, grill up chicken breasts with a light seasoning of salt, black pepper and paprika; cut into bite sized pieces and add this instead.  Or choose another pasta, like rigatoni, but make the cheese sauce as directed, add shrimp or chicken, and bake it up.

This casserole, paired with a salad and garlic bread will make a fantastic dinner for six.  However, it will be a spectacular Valentine’s Day dinner for two, with leftovers!

Mary Cokenour

The Pizza Trilogy – Chicago Style.

Chicago Style Pizza can be mistaken as a deep dish pan pizza.  While both are baked in a deep, round heavy aluminum pan, the crust and technique cannot compare between the two.  The dough is made differently from regular pizza dough; thicker and moister to keep from drying out and burning during baking. The assembly of the pizza itself is unique; the cheese on the bottom, additional ingredients in the center, and a tomato mixture on top.  With Chicago style pizza, the cheese goes beneath the sauce to create a barrier between the crust, sauce and additional ingredients.

Is this type of pizza Italian or American in origin?  The answer is both.  In 1880, while the Hole in the Rock pioneers were traveling to, and settling in, Bluff; Italian immigrants were moving to Chicago from the east coast.  Like other ethnic groups before and after, they were being subjugated to economic, political, social, and religious discrimination.  By 1920, Chicago housed the third largest population of Italians, and American born descendants; and I bet many are hearing in their minds…Mafia.  With the Prohibition Era (1920-1933), Al Capone and many of his cohorts were able to come into power; but this article is about pizza, not alcohol and crime lords.

1940s, World War 2 in full rampage, food being rationed; concerns over “bringing our boys home safe” and “how do we feed our families here at home”.  Wheat flour, corn oil, salt and yeast were not as severely rationed as meats, fruits and vegetables.  The first four ingredients were necessary for making dough; adding the few bits of meats and vegetables, a complete meal could be created…pizza!  However, to feed hungry laborers, it had to be more substantial than a thin crust Naples slice, or breadier Sicily square.  At home, to ease some of the tension of war, families ate meals together; at the set table, plates, utensils, linen tablecloth and napkins.  The dough was covered with thick cheese, the minimal meats and vegetables chopped and layered next, a rich tomato sauce poured over all; baked and served in a deep pan, like a casserole.   Bellies became full, stories were told of daily events at school and work; war was forgotten about, if only for a brief time.

So, you go to pizza places, like Pizza Hut and Old Chicago (Grand Junction, CO), that use basic dough and the assembly is the same as a standard pizza: dough, sauce, cheese, toppings (if any). It is baked in a deep dish pan, called “Deep Dish” or “Chicago style”, but are you getting the real deal?   If you want authentic Chicago style, then travel to Chicago!  Cannot fit that into your travel plans, order online for home delivery.  No, I am not kidding, a few Chicago restaurants will deliver all over the USA! 

Uno Pizzeria and Grill, established 1943 (http://www.unos.com/) or Lou Malnati’s, established 1971 (http://www.loumalnatis.com/) are two of the best when it comes to pizza.  The pizza is assembled, frozen, shipped and each comes in oven ready, aluminum lined paper baking pans.  Intrigued with other delicacies of the Chicago, Illinois region?  Tastes of Chicago (http://www.tastesofchicago.com/) makes it possible to order online to have pizza, and many other goodies, delivered to your front door.   While supermarket shopping, check the pizza frozen section; once in a great while, Chicago pizza can be found and that is definitely a treat.

Now if you are a daring type, like me, then you will take on the challenge of making this type of pizza yourself.  

Here is the basic information, so have fun:

Pizza Dough for Chicago Style Pizza

This type of pizza dough is thicker; it cooks in a deep dish pan and would burn if it was thinner like New York style pizza dough. However, the exposed dough, not covered with sauce, cheese and other ingredients, comes out crispy and light. This dough is best made using a stand mixer and the dough hook attachment due to the thickness and moistness of the dough.

Basic Dough

Ingredients:

2 packages rapid rise dry yeast

2 cups warm water (about 110F)

½ cup vegetable oil

4 Tbsp. olive oil

½ cup cornmeal

5 ½ cups all-purpose flour

Preparation:

In the bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve the yeast in warm water. When fully dissolved, add in the oils, cornmeal and half of the flour; mix for 10 minutes. Attach the dough hook, add in the other half of the flour and set on medium speed. The dough will be ready when it pulls easily from the sides of the bowl. Place the dough onto a floured board, cover with a large bowl; let it rise till it doubles in size. Punch the dough down, cover; let it rise again. Punch it down a second time; time to make the pizza.

The thickness of the dough will depend on the size of the deep dish pan being used; ¼” for a 10” pan; 1/8” for a 15” pan.   The depth of a deep dish pan is typically 2 inches; some are 1.5 inches, but I personally like the extra depth in case of overflow.  Lightly coat the pan with olive oil; place dough in center of pan and push out evenly to edges, then up the sides of the pan to the top rim.

Basic Filling - for 10” deep dish pan

½ lb. each sliced provolone and mozzarella cheeses

1 (10 ½ oz.) can crushed tomatoes

1 (10 ½ oz.) can diced tomatoes, drained

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

¼ tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. each dried oregano, basil

¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

Assembly

Cover the dough with alternating slices of provolone and mozzarella cheeses. In a medium size bowl, mix together crushed and diced tomatoes, herbs, garlic and salt; spread mixture evenly over cheese slices. Sprinkle grated cheese evenly over tomato mixture.

The pizza will be baked in a preheated 475F oven for 35-40 minutes, on the center rack; the exposed crust will be a golden brown; the tomato mixture will be bubbly.

Additional Ingredients

These can be added on top of the cheese slices, before the tomato mixture goes on top; in any combination; the choices are numerous.

1 lb. of ground Italian sausage (mild or hot) or seasoned ground beef – the meat is uncooked; cooking the meat before usage will toughen it.

1 cup sliced vegetables: onion, bell peppers, hot peppers, mushrooms, olives

1 cup pepperoni slices or thinly sliced prosciutto

The deep dish pans can easily be found online for purchase.  Do not get frustrated if the pizza does not come out perfectly the first time.  Trial and error are all part of the learning experience which only becomes more fun as time and practice go on.

Mary Cokenour