New Delhi - Last Stop before Home

I heard so many stories about New Delhi. Mostly from travellers that I have met along the way in India. At one point I notice a pattern …. And my questions started to become generalized and assumption based ….. the base that Delhi is not a good place and the worst place in India. 

Apparently there was a lots of elaborate gimmick or scams going on in Delhi. Most tourist first time flies into Delhi to venture into Mother India on a spiritual journey. The more spiritual the journey the easier prey for the con artist that just want your money. After all one cannot embark on a spiritual journey without first encountering the evil of humanity. 

New Delhi

I have met so many so many and heard so many scams that tourist had been ripped off from. The road is closed .. the hotel is no longer in existence …. The choice of words are so profound that one should think and wonder how sophisticated these con artist are. Generally the con goes in a similar fashion that they find an excuse any excuse to discredit the place you are trying to go and bring you to a legitimate government authorized honest building. If those that don’t know it already … this is India … there is no such thing …..

Walking around Delhi I notice that there was a lot of these such buildings …. Look official, painted in all the right colours, good English educated friendly Indian that will gives you advice in anything that you might want to know …. Everything is genuine …. Until you need to spend money …. To buy a ticket or to book a hotel or to get a tour … that’s when one have to think twice or twenty times of how much should one really pay …. 

I was lucky that Delhi was the last stop and I had so much warning …. In a way I was immune and the last few days I had towards the end of my 1 year long trip for some reason was also hot tempered … I could get easily agitated by friendly people looking to help you out. My mind was most at peace when people left me alone …. Never before have I sought to travel a country that is not friendly towards it tourist but just plain neutral. 

I say Delhi is not a good place unless you are here with a local guide or have your fury burning at full power disdaining everyone that tries to befriend you …. The one and only true government tourist information centre apparently was genuine and very helpful according to one tourist that manage to find it ….

Finding it was an issue … you could not rely on any street locals for help for they will direct you to a dummy where the scam artist are. Not that all the locals are bad but just that these locals are either in consort with these dummies or because there are so many of these genuine dummies that the locals themselves think that its true genuine official. 

The nice German chap that found it .. Edward whom I met in Pushkar told me the only trick to knowing if it was a true blue Government tourist information for Delhi is that they are not authorized to sell anything …. No money …. No Booking No Tickets No Tips …. Pure information and help and guide … if only you could find it. 

Still it was Delhi. 

What did I do in Delhi …. Not much I would say. Sightseeing was out of my mind as I was mentally exhausted to appreciate any of the sights. I went Handicraft hunting for the 4 days that I was here. Jump from one bazaar to another bazaar to another official gov shop to another …. 

I could finally shop since it was the last stop before flying home. Time to rake in some souvenirs and stuff and since its India, things should be pretty cheap. I realized how dumb I was pretty quick. First stop was Dalli Haat a Handicraft Bazaar set up by the Gov of India that allows the genuine handicraft artist to display their works for free at the bazaar and no middle men …. Only the artist themselves must mend the stalls. 

Dalli Haat was a nice place quiet and peaceful with its artist gently poking you to see their wares but not too aggressive as a market free for all. The unique thing was that to enter one would need to pay an entry fee. It was 50 for foreigner and 20 for a local Indian. I look at it … and chuck Rs 20 rupee on the window with my displease look not a word uttered. The guy took one brief look at me and gave me the ticket …. I was a local now … India has no rules …. Rules on the board is more like a suggestion …. 

In the Bazaar I found more of the fav Rajasthan fine paintings … price was for two small size refine works of a peacocks it was Rs 2800 … I really think I strike a bargain in Jaipur now …. I did not buy anything despite looking around for 3 days … my taste in material stuff had risen after travelling a year …. Why buy junk … if you want to buy anything at all especially things that are not essential or practical … just for decoration .. it should be of the finest quality but also at a fair or in Indian standard …. CHEAP.  

3 days I scour Delhi for Handicraft …. Cottage Emporium, internal states emporium , markets, Janpath Market …. Bazaars … back alley streets …. and the result after 3 days of hunting is that I have bought nothing at all …. As I wait in the hostel for 6pm before I head towards the airport I wonder if the spare Rs 2000 that I have would get me any stuff worth its value at the airport …. 

It was time to go home … it has been a year since I started this travel … my second time around the world … time to fly home and see some familiar friends and family … a smile creep in as I think on where my next adventure will be …. And how long before I could put this plan in motion … 

It has been an eventful year

Travelled on : Aug 2015

Daytrip to Mathura & Vindravan - .... Thieving Monkey Stole my Glasses

Mathura and Vrindavan was a local recommendation from Ktan telling the story of Lord Krishna, one of the three key deity of the Hindu mythology. Daytrip was an adventure in india, espescially when one has to travel roughly 150km to visit the place.

It all started out well waking up late and getting ready to hit the road by 1030 am. First obstacle was to get an autorickshaw to the train station …. 150 rupee … no 100 rupee … no …. zzz … it boiled down to 120 rupee and I was on the road again to the train station

Train station and my second time with unreserved ticket. Ticket to Mathura and I got the same treatment of chuck your ticket at your face treatment. I guess it’s a thing on the unreserved ticket counter but was happy to pay dirt cheap price for it … 50 rupee … Enquiry counter time and the next train to Mathura leaves at 150pm … check the board and it says late … fuck … that would mean waiting nearly 4 hours at the train station ….

Back up plan …. Take a bus … so I walked out the train station and naturally got surrounded by touts .,… could have walk to the bus station but I succumbed to taking a manual rickshaw for 20 rupee to the bus station ….

Mathura ???? there bus … jump on immediately and it departed just as I boarded …. Perfect. It cost me 70 rupee on the bus … not to bad I guess and a slow journey getting out of Agra till we hit the main highway and it was cruise sailing.

Mathura … and I got dropped off way way far away from the centre …. The outer ring, but it didn’t matter I guess since I decided to pay for a tuk tuk anyway to Vrindavan first. 150 rupee and I was too lazy to bargain … on the road again.

Vrindavan an hour later since the tuk tuk was a crappy one with no power. Finally the land of Hare Krishna. Got a super heavy lunch thaili which was awesome only to suffer with a painful belly for the next 6 hours since I was too full. A walk around Vrindavan and it was nice and windy roads rural and surprisingly no foreign tourist. With the amount of western Hare Krishna fans I thought it would be crazier than this … still I was enjoying the local atmosphere.

Walking around the narrow streets of Vrindravan

Someone bump me from the back …. My hands went straight for the pockets and in a split second determined that I had everything intact …. But wait why is everything blury now … My glasses was gone …. Bah I spat thinking it must have dropped off from the bump. Spinning around looking for it I saw a monkey perching on a ledge of a building 1st floor with my glasses.

Fuck ….

A cheeky kid came to me and says “50 rupee I get it back”

The Indian in me said NO …. 10 rupee …. All the while squinting at the monkey willing it to drop my specs. I could see him chewing on the side frame of my Oakley Glasses which had a yellow rubber grip. He took off the grip … great, … chance that he might think it’s a banana and drop the glasses instead.

50 rupee I get it back ….. like a chant in the background of my ear ….

To my horror I see the monkey licking the whole glasses, bite and trying to tear its way through the nose piece. He has finally figure out that the yellow rubber grip is not a banana … and is now furious gnawing away at my frame.

Thieving Monkey in Vrindravan Chewing my Classes

In my mind …. Even if I get it back it’s going to be useless to me …. and do I really want to wear that after being infested by monkey germs ???

50 rupee I get it back …..

No … 10 rupee …. ( the auto indian in me bargaining )

A guy pass by and saw me watching the monkey ….. 10 rupee for the boy and 10 rupee for him to buy some juice to give the monkey ….. you get back your glasses ….

Looking at the Monkey it was too late … he went ballistic and bend the whole frame trying to rip it apart ….. Oh well …. It’s definitely useless to me now …. I laugh and chuckle and turn around to enjoy what I could of Vrindavan with my blurry vision …

50 rupee I get it back ….. the cheeky kid was still cheerful trying to sell his trade
....

Continue on, I see what I could with my blurry eyes of Vrindavan …. There was a garden with 5 temples in it …. I think it was the Seva Kunj but I could not be sure …. It is stated in wikitravel … planted with countless tulsi (holy basil) trees, this is the garden where gopis dance for Krishna at night, and where Krishna and his lover Radha spend the night locked in the Moti Mahal. 

Vrindravan

Vrindravan

There were hoards of monkeys here thou ….. harassing everyone that could find … trying to take anything that is not well guarded …. 
The monkeys of Hare Krishna were a protected being in this holy land as the story has a monkey god Hanuman in it ....

Walking around, I sneak out my phone from time to time trying to get a better view through the lenses of phone camera … I was near-sighted after all … can see near can’t see far but Monkeys were watching … must be weary of monkey jumping me now ...

I pass by the Yamuna river where a holy men tending a tree said to be a thousand year old. Many pilgrims come here to make offering he said …. Do you want to make a donation? I have donated a pair of glasses today to the monkeys … I think it’s enough …. He laughed at my answer but left me alone without any more gimmick’s. 

Yamuna River in Vrindravan

I decided I was not getting much from this daytrip with my vision stolen so early in the trip. Time to head back but there was only one way which was to get to Mathura to get a bus to Agra …. Might as well see the most famous Radha Krishna Temple in Mathura before I go back …. 

My hopes of using camera to take pictures for later viewing was dashed when the front gates says No Camera No Phones …. Even from outside the temple looked fabulous …. Left my phone at the locker and went in anyway enjoying the crowd and the feel of people all in happy mode singing Hare Krishna and going round in circles. 

Entrance to Radha Krishna Temple in Mathura - India

What I could not see I could only feel ….. 

End of Daytrip and I head back to Agra to get my spare glasses out. 

Travelled on : Aug 2015 
 

7 Wonders of the Modern World – Taj Mahal, Agra – India

Taj Mahal, Agra …. Somehow the wonders of the modern world pales to the expectation that one desire from it. I guess it the disappointment is when everyone says it’s a masterpiece putting it up there on a pedestal that after more glorious bootlicking reviews, one’s expectation of being lifted to a higher plane of existence when visiting any of the 7 wonders could never be fulfilled. 

I enjoyed Agra in a way although the distance of places put me off a little. Distance is fine but being force to use only the preying touts of Tuk Tuks or camel or horse carriage cause me to hate India local transport a little more. 

I visited the Red Fort of course and Taj Mahal which was a structure of great artwork but then I also took a long walk into the real Agra … the back lane carefully hidden from the tourist path were the locals go about their daily lives …. It was a place where locals look at you as if you were a lost puppy, strayed off the main tourist road and into their back alley housing.

Not much to post on Agra and Taj Mahal … it was a place to just chill and enjoy the view

Taj Mahal - Tourist Everywhere

Travelled on : Sep 2015

Buying Fine Arts Souvenir in Jaipur

After 2 hours I was finish with the Amber fort and headed for lunch. I passed by one handicraft shop and went in looking for Fine Rajasthan Painting on Plastic or as the cheaters call it Camel Bone. It has become an obsession for me now to get one for some reason …. So do regret not getting it in Udaipur where I saw the actual artist painting them. 

The shop did not have any for they only have carving. The shopkeeper thou was a nice guy who recommended me a place along the way back to the pink city. The store was nowhere anywhere where a tourist would go. Out of the city and surrounded by empty shops nearby. I had time and thought to give it a fair chance. Walking into the shop I saw they had what I wanted or rather had the stuff but not the quality of painting that I wanted. 

We only have paintings from Rs 1500 and above. All our stuff are good stuff. The word GOOD is over used in India …. I don’t think they understand the meaning of quality. 

He showed me some of the works which I rejected and the shopkeeper dove deeper into the stash till I finally see one that might just make do. 

This one of Rs 6000 

How I hate the intricate layers of India bargaining system. Nowadays my bargaining style seem to be insulting the shopkeeper in India …

I think its painting that is not done asleep at least but no way does it worth USD 100. Thank you and goodbye ....

Walked out and started walking back to town. 

Along the way I saw one more shop … a large one that had some of the fine painting displayed on the window. I decided to give it a try …. Why not …. I had time. … 

This shop had really good works. Not masterpiece such as the one I saw in Udaipur but these were good that the brush strokes did not seem sloppy. How much …. ??? Rs 3500 for the elephant Rs 4000 for the Kingfisher …. Painting on silk cheaper Rs 1000 or if you want painting on paper Rs 800. I contemplate it … keep looking, somehow considering the options and the worth of the painting. 

The Kingfisher Fine Painting on Synthetic Camel Bone - Bargain and Bought for Rs 1000

I have no money for that. 

No problem … ATM nearby …. 

No money means no budget …. You think ATM means unlimited money ???

The banter went on for an hour at lease with me looking as tormented as I could. I wonder now how I even had the patients to do it thinking back. Normally I just snap when the opening price is obviously crazy. 

What’s your budget the shop owner asked … Rs 1000 for the Kingfisher …. 

This is not possible …. 25% offer of the opening price is not possible. 

In a way in India we all know they mark up 100% to 300% for foreigner waiting for people to bargain at 50% of the price before finally settling at around 65% … they still gain a rip off of double the selling price. So in a way me asking for 25% of the original price seams just right. 

It dropped to 3500 as expected …. 

Let me think about it ….

Silk …. Silk painting is only Rs 1000 …. 

No I not interested in silk I told them …. 

More conversation …. 3000 final price … best price … 

I dun have money …. I need to think about it …. If I spend money now what about tomorrow ??

Arghh this is really nice painting, tormented me being wishy washy ……. Mmmm mmmmm no I need to think about it …. 

Give me your name card for the shop so I can find it tomorrow if I somehow manage to shuffle my budget …. 

Shopkeeper sends the boy to get name card but I could tell he was stalling … the boy took forever to get the name card over … 

Friend … ok …. Rs 2500 …. Really very cheap … you are lucky person …. ( am I really lucky ???) 

At this point I decided I will need time to contemplate my buying decision …. Proceed to walk out the door … 

Whoops I U-turn .. I forgot my water bottle …. 

Friend … Name me a price between 1000 ( my Budget) and 2000 ( Oh so it drop again to 2000 ) 

No I need to think … 

Just tell me a price … 

Why are you pressuring me ? I barked at him …. 

No pressure he said … and I scratch my head and grabbed my water bottle and started to walk out the door … I will think about it I said … 

OK 1000 …. And he started the packing process …. 

I was stunned … dumbfounded … what the f*ck just happened …. 

You sure ??? 

Yep yep … no problem … 1000 Kingfisher is yours … 

I dun want you to get into any trouble …. (Secretly thinking maybe I should not buy this now but can’t think of a way to escape tactfully)

No problem …. Rs 1000 please …

So I parted with Rs 1000 and gained a Rajasthan Fine Painting on synthetic Camel Bone. Why do I somehow feel that I lost instead of winning a grand bargain of 25% …. Only in India 

Post Note: Nowhere else in India did I saw such quality and size of work in India at this price even after extensive bargaining …. The closes I got was Rs 1400 in Dalli Haat New Delhi. I am starting to think I got a good deal … either that or that somehow being a foreigner all these shopkeeper opens the same inflated price … oh well … only in India 

Travelled on : Sep 2015

The Pink City of Jaipur – India

Recalling Jaipur I was so tired I was not pleased when the hostel was located at a faraway location from any sorts of sights. Being set in a residential neighbourhood this hostel was really far away, no busses, no trains, no food.

The one thing that annoy me the most was the food. No food nearby. It took me about 2 hours walking round and round going in a bigger circle to a bigger circle till I finally found some resemblance of food. That was at least a 20 minute walk from the hostel.

The Pink Turban Hostel. Because the hostel was hot with lousy air conditioning (Although they were using a desert cooler and a huge one too) WIFI that barely works and a location that sucks big time I was not pleased with Jaipur. 

New Jaipur - The Pink City

A typical Street inside the Pink City - Jaipur

The Pink City Gate - Jaipur

I only did two things in Jaipur …. Visit the Pink City which was not really pink and not really pretty thou it was a walk like any other walk though India big cities. Streets dedicated to Sari, streets dedicated to jewellery, streets dedicated to chapatti …. You get the idea … the only new thing I saw was a street that was dedicated to Marble carving. That was a sight to see but any stuff worthy of spending Rupee was too big to carry. 

I got persuaded by some people from the hostel that I should and must visit the actual Jaipur which was far far away and has a famous fort call the Amber Fort. I though the Pink City was the old city of Jaipur but apparently it was the new Jaipur.  

So I made my way … rickshaw was draining my funds in Jaipur and that did not even get me to my destination and I had to take a bus. Amber fort thou was quite a worthwhile visit, grand and ever charming. Touts and friendly Indian guides will pester you to get a guide …. It’s not worth visiting without a guide they would say, you will be wasting your money …. Rs 200 rupee for a foreigner entrance ….

I find it f*cking rude of Indians who seems to think they, and when I say they I mean every f*cking single individual with different minds and idea whom seems to think they are all knowing and all wise. They give the off air vibe that you tourist don’t know what you are doing …. Follow me I will make your trip memorable till I part you with your money and then you will feel cheated like a Indian. 

I went in without a guide …. Read the tablets information post every now and then and just went nook and corner exploring …. One of the security guard saw me wandering everywhere and asked me to follow ….

He could not speak much English but was kind enough to show me all the hidden rooms of the fort and best view of the place such as hidden staircase that gives amazing view upstairs. Just when I was starting to profoundly hate Indians …. This chap alters my narrowing view of India …. 

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Its people … Its people …. Just that most Indians are cheats …. At least at tourist places.

Travelled on : Sep 2015

More Tuk Tuk Stories – I’m an Honest Tuk Tuk Driver in India

India is really taking that last mile of travelling out of me. I got to Jaipur and before getting off the bus I could see the faces of the tuk tuk drivers all looking in and pointing to the one tourist in the bus which was me. Step off and immediately I was flanked by these disgusting creatures. I lost my calm …. I despise them really. 

Outer District of Jaipur - India

Once I got my bag it was time to negotiate but even just a short 3 hours ride form Pushkar and I was not in the mood. How much to Pink Turban Hostel …. The standard diversion tactics and Indian playwrights came alive. I was not in the mood and with this one guy who thinks India is great and keep asking why in a obtrusive manor, I really lost my calm. 

How much to Pink Turban Hostel …. If you don’t know you can get loss … 

I know the way, he finally admitted … 120 rupees ….. 

60 rupees I said 

Not possible sir … 100 rupees at lease … 

60 rupees … Yes or No … stop wasting my time … 

80
Starts walking 

70 

Shouts for another tuk tuk

Ok 60 …. 

I got in and it was two drivers … one to drive and one to distract you …. First time India? … first time Jaipur? Why Pink Turban … so far from city … many good place in Pink City nearby …. WHY WHY WHY ….

I fucking hate India …. All cheats …. 

No cheat in Jaipur … all honest people here …. 

Everyone says that I told him, and all the same story. 

I Honest man I dun like lie, give me a gift from your country, Its not possible for 60 rupee 80 please …. 

I promiss I swear upon my f*cking dead honour ….. shut up and drive me to Pink Turban …. 

Stuck in traffic the guy started yelling to another Tuk Tuk Driver next door in Hindi ….. after a while …. OK you take bag and go with him … he bring you to Pink Turban … 

60 rupee ??? 

I got the f*cking head wobble …. Got out and the bastards zoom away … 60 rupees I asked the new bastard and he said 100 rupee … 

Those guys are cheats I am honest the new tuk tuk driver said …. 

F*cking bastards … 

I decided I will walk to pink turban …. But half way through I gave up when a Tuk Tuk with a smile pulled over 40 minutes later. 40 minutes’ walk managed to calm me down and this time I negotiate without the hostility and settle at a price of 70 rupee …. 

Welcome to Jaipur … the new new tuk tuk driver said ...

I hate this place already.

Traveled on : Sep 2015

Holy Town of Brahma – Pushkar India

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Pushkar was a holy town. Whenever I think of holy town in India I think of Varanasi and its craziness yet peaceful nature. In a way Pushkar resembles that but in a much much smaller scale.

I ended up in the Moonlight hotel recommended by Raj in Udaipur and true enough a rare and honest guesthouse owner. Offering rate was 250 rupee a night for the cheapest room which was really good and went up as the room gets better. I took the cheapest of course. 

Two guys I met in Pushkar …. Andres and Edward. Andres was from Columbia and Edward was from Germany. These two was the one I hang out the most exchanging stories on the rooftop while smoking cigs. 

I ended up reciting the story of Brahma quite a few times to whomever I met. Most of them do not know the story Brahma but ended up in Pushkar based on lonely planet recommendation. It’s a holy city …. Hence travellers goes there without knowing the story. 

Pushkar was a nice town …. A small lake in the centre that could be walk around in 20 minutes was the scared lake that Brahma created. Devoted Hindu comes here to take a bath just like in Varanasi but less intense. The single street around the lake was plied with tourist shops selling all kinds of food and handicraft. 

Holy City of Pushkar - India

I ended up staying three night in Pushkar despite not having much to do here. Everyday was sort of a same routine …. Walk around and head back for some sleep and read comics. The last full day I decided I must see the Brahma temple … it’s was the reason I came anyway.

I was so lazy in Pushkar that at one point I could not have been bothered if I even miss going to that temple. Thinking back maybe it was the force of Shiva at work preventing me from developing deep interest in visiting the temple. 

Dumping everything in the hotel including shoes I head out with Edward to the temple …. Line was long but ever moving and still not as crowded as the Kali temple in Kolkata. Not too bad I thought and nearing the start point of the steps a flower vendor called out to us ….

Hello Hello ….. Eh Hello … 

Flower for Brahma ….

No thanks …. 

No respect Brahma ….. 

By now I know how to give back a curse when I see fit …. 

You no respect Brahma I retorted back ….

Meekly he said no …. I respect Brahma, but he did not try to force sell his flower again. 

In we went and round the inner circle following the flow of Hindu tourist. The outside says no camera is allowed but once inside, it was the local Indian tourist that pops out the camera phones and snapped away. I smiled as I know enough about Hindu religion now that respect meaning is not the same as the western culture assume. Respect is doing the devoted worship and keeping their god chant in mind always …. The story had nothing about cameras as 4000 years ago there was no such things.

Me and Edward sat inside the temple for a while in a quiet corner while I relate all the stories I know about Brahma and the Hindu Culture …. He was very surprise but was very grateful for the knowledge that he now had a deeper understanding of Pushkar. 

Pushkar was a nice rest but it was time to move on to Jaipur … 

This time I took the tourist bus which was 200 rupee but jam packed with people and never on time …. The boy at the travel agency which I asked when is my bus coming after an hour kept saying 15 minute later …. Or with the calming sit down hand sign and mouthing wait wait. While his friends around all watch the internet and some sort of youtube channel which I suspect contain as much nudity they could find I was ignored to wonder if I was even going to get out of Pushkar …. I got angry … gave him my piece of mind about the absurdness of what was going on, only to get the standard reply ….

*GRIN* This is India …

Travelling by Local Government Bus from Jodhpur to Pushkar – India

I had time to check for the local suburban government bus so I decided to take it. The official bus stand was filled with people …. The real India! Not the tourist bus which is normally empty but leave you waiting for hours for the bus and when it arrive it is packed to the brim like sardines. No the government bus was a rackety bus that looks old, painted in blue with all the Hindi markings of where it was going.

Bus stand had ticket counters as well to sell tickets to wherever you are going but the catch is they would only sell the ticket once the bus arrived. No advance reservation allowed. Bus stand are only in Hindi for some reason and no English board nor announcement can be heard. This makes it harder for one to navigate the Indian bus system

Local Government Bus in India

Nothing a few questions can’t help answer and I found that the bus departs at 9 am in the morning. I have realized that information in India is always never as it is ….. it’s always approximate …. But if you do not head the information provided and lost track of time, miss of bus or unfortunate event is your fault entirely.

Research done a day earlier I was ready for a local adventure

Bus Station in Jodhpur

The next day I arrive at 815 am early to buy the bus ticket only to be told by the ticket booth that the bus to Pushkar departs at 1030 am …. I was to wait around to buy the ticket at 930 when the bus arrive. F*ck this shit and I walk over to the next counter and ask for a ticket to Ajmer instead. I knew Ajmer had bus almost every half hour and from Ajmer to Pushkar it was only a very short journey anyway ….

Ticket Booth in Jodhpur Bus Station - India

I hate waiting … especially in India where waiting can be infinite. Most displeasure shown would result in a reply with a big grin “This is India” 

So I got the bus to Ajmer for 185 rupee which left half an hour later and then at Ajmer after dodging all the auto rickshaw telling them I have no money since I arrive using a government bus. A few more asking around and I found the government bus to Pushkar and sat in the bus waiting for the worst fee and turn out it only cost 14 rupee from Ajmer to Pushkar …. Hooray .. I did the right choice and manage to save time and also money.

 

Quick Visit in Jodhpur - The Blue City of India

Jodhpur the blue city was not as amazing as I thought I would be. Narrow streets and zig zaggy roads through dusty and mysterious alleys wandering and I found nothing but the common Indian people. Pretty boring. Then again it was a nice change of pace instead of people hassling you all the time to buy something.

Jodhpur The Blue City - India

Inside the Zig Zaggy Roads of Jodhpur

Jodhpur Blue Painted Buildings

I mostly went exploring with another English guy (Ned) which stayed at the same hostel. We walked quite far away from the tourist area and nearly ended up near the old outer walls. Into those streets children were playing doing their own thing till they saw a white boy and a yellow boy. We gathered a fan club …. And it was fun till one of the boy decided it would be fun as well to ask for money. 

Time for an Indian Escape Run …. Still it was fun with those kids laughing and mischievous all the time 

There is only one main attraction in Jodhpur and that was the stunning fort structure sitting above the city and by keeping it in sight we could navigate the city and know where we were all the time. Entrance to the fort was expensive by Indian standards at 500 rupee a visit but it included an audio guide which gave fantastic information causing me to be stuck at the fort for nearly 3 hours. 

Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort Entrance

Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort

Opium Set at Jodhpur Fort

Fine Arts inside Jodhpur Fort

The walls inside Jodhpur Fort

The blue city was also not really that blue. Only patches of houses were blue and not every single corner. Walking among them one would see the occasional all blue house to snap a picture but only at the high point of the fort one could see all the patches of blue together and imagine that the city was surrounded by water instead of desert. 



Outer Edge of the Old Wall - Jodhpur

It was a nice city Jodhpur but with the heat it was not a nice place to hang around too long.
Travelled on : Aug 2015

More Tuk Tuk Barganing Stories - Jodhpur

Jodhpur. I arrived late in the afternoon around 3pm, dropped off by the bus again to a hoard of autorickshaw vulture. Seams the bus has a trend of leaving people at last stop nowhere near the city but somewhere in between and these rickshaw drivers knew that they would have business everytime a bus arrive. Even worst when they spot a foreigner like me their eyes lights up like fireworks.

This time I was prepared although hungry I knew where the hostel was around 3km from where I was dropped off. Google map was marked and I had leverage of daytime with me. 

Blur City of Jodhpur - India

How much to Zostel …. (Zostel is a chain Hostel in Rajasthan State in India) 

I have better hotel he said … good room, restaurant, view bla bla bla … 

I have booking … how much to Zostel …. 
150 rupee sir … very good price 

NO !

It is very far sir … 150 rupee is a good price 

NO …. shaking my head Indian style now ....

How much ? 

NO .... shaking my head and laughing like a crazy person

Ok 120 rupee come lets go 

NO … I know where the hostel is … its only 3km that way ….

OK best price 80 rupee ….

Nope …. No way …. I would pay at most 30 to 40 rupee only

Impossible sir …. 80 is the minimum … its IMPOSSIBLE to be lower than that ….

Ok since its impossible I will walk …. ( I buckle up my backpack and started walking )

Wait wait …. Ok sir … Indian price … 50 rupee … this is Indian price … 

NO …. Dun waste my time … I’ll walk …. ( All the while thinking how could the impossible 80 rupee became 50 rupee ) 

10 steps later

OK come … 

40 rupee ??

Yes yes .. come 

Somehow I feel I have won … but also wondering if I could have gotten it cheaper …. 



Traveled on : Aug 2015

The Fine Arts in Udaipur

Udaipur was a pleasant surprises. The bus stopped us way way far away from the centre and I had to get a rickshaw to Zostel Udaipur …. Game face time to get it done and after hard bargaining I got it for 60 rupee. It was pretty far and judging by the ride it would have took me 2 hours walking.

Zostel was closed … apparently the place had some water maintenance issue as well as electric current running in the water line. No shit. They recommended Shiva Guesthouse which was just round the corner. Walking into the guesthouse it was empty … no one home …. I decided to wait and a minute later a guy appear from the toilet.

Raj was the owner of the guesthouse and his opening price was 300 rupees for a night. I was genuinely surprised. It is quite rare that in India one encounters an honest businessman. I did not bother to bargain the price and just had a look at the room before agreeing to it. The place was slightly run down but the room was clean and there was hot water and wifi. That was all I need really plus it had a beautiful view of Udaipur lake and palace from its rooftop restaurant (which was close). I was the only guest there the entire 4 days.

Palace in the Center of the Lay of Udaipur

Udaipur was a charming city one of those few places in India where one could just laze back and chill out for a few days. Places after palaces all around with good amenities. Laundry services everywhere, food was abundant and good in taste and price.

Lovely View of Udaipur

Rajasthan Food in Udaipur - India

Markets were for the tourist but not at an exorbitant rate, instead it was better for tourist to shop at the tourist market. Usual market in India is spice market, jewellery market or sari market, things that you see a lot but would not really buy them.

Tourist market means there were lots of handicraft items and in Udaipur it was pretty good quality. It was the best place to get fine miniature paintings and even stone carvings or wood carvings. The variety was abundant and the craftsmanship was refine. I spend a lot of time in many shops in Udaipur looking at handicraft but only bought one Ganesha carving made of jade marble for only 200 rupee. It was a steal.

Paintings Everywhere in Udaipur Building

Painting Everywhere in Udaipur

The second thing I was looking for was fine miniature painting of RadhaKrishna …. There was many but the artist side of me became a critique and rejected most of them. At one of the shop, I lingered longer and when he realized I was looking at the art piece and rejecting them because of the lack of quality (it was already damn good but I was very insistent on finding that perfect one) he offered to show me the special collection.

Special collection was taken from a safe box and boy it was a work of art. I probably can’t afford this I said … I have never asked for a price so far … and he agreed I could not afford it, never even bother telling me the price. It’s not for sale anyway he said.

The place was ART Centre 39 Lal Ghat Udaipur – 9587229030

Piece after piece he took out and I marvel at the quality of the fine art. It was also rare for a shop owner to not mention any of the price. How much is this one I finally asked …..

That one is done by a professor …. not for sale ….

I know but how much is it worth I said ….. 70000 rupees

Some other piece he showed me was of good quality, much better than any that was on display in the shop but never as good as the professors work …..

This is good but not as good I said …

With a smile …. He said it was the work of a teacher level …. So apparently there is three levels in art. An artist then a teacher and finally a professor. He even showed me one that was drawn by his grandfather, a family heirloom and a few miniature that was drawn by him himself.

Why don’t you show this I asked …. All your paintings in the shop is nowhere close to the quality and refine in term of storytelling as these that you are showing me now from the safe ….

He said if these pieces were shown people would take photos and then try to copy them. Plus it’s too expensive anyway that no one would buy them …. Only those who value the work would pay for it so there is no point putting it out for display.

I left after nearly an hour of looking at his collection and chatting with him. Never once did he try to sell me something knowing that the inferior artwork did not interest me and the good ones were beyond my wallet ability. Only regret is that I could not take a photo to post in the blog and show the world.

Apart from the lake palace in Udaipur and a few museum that everyone visits and take a walk around the old city there was one other charm that was rare in India. They had a cultural performance show every night at Bhangali Ki Haveli where for a donation of 100 rupees one could see the vast cultural heritage life show for an hour.

The Building Outside to the Heritage Show - Udaipur

The performance was authentic Rajasthan dying art and culture from singing, dancing, puppet show and the grand finally of a women balancing pots on her head while dancing. When I say pots I means loads of pots …. In fact the pots at final stack of 11 pieces were taller than the woman that was dancing.

Truly a dying art for it was develop by women in the west of Rajasthan whom needed to walk very far to collect water and by stacking them and balancing them delicately on the head they would not have to made so many a trip. The woman whom performed the dance was an elderly women …. It takes years before one can even stack the pots let alone dance with it.

Udaipur Grand Temple

Udaipur

Udaipur

Traveled  on : Aug 2015

Ahmedabad …

Ahmedabad was a quick stop walk and run away for me. Worst thing was that it was moms birthday the day I arrived and after the usual tuk tuk bashing, hotel hunting and talking down to and making sure it was affordable within budget and still has free wifi if only in the lobby, I still could not send a happy birthday message to mom because social media is blocked in Ahmedabad. 

Apparently the state of Gujarat was in turmoil when I visited back in Aug 2015 due to some political issue of quota that the people wants the government to give them. The turmoil was so bad there was some riots and then curfew and lastly control of media hence the social media lockdown. Walking around and looking at the place during the day was alright and seems like a peaceful place but asking recommendation of what to do at night and the only answer is bed … 

You are not allowed to walk around at night ... There is a CURFEW … a pause and a momentary thought later the hotel receptionist adds … oh the curfew was lifted YESTERDAY … still I advise you to stay inside at night … I was there just a day after the curfew was lifted apparently…. Things was still not so good but outside in the web reports were such like a peaceful protest. 

Peaceful or not peaceful, it was time to quickly get Ahmedabad done and move on as I did not want to get stuck for no good reason. 

The city of Ahmedabad is huge but not much tourist attraction beyond a few sights. A few mosque here and there which was lovely for I was there alone visiting and for once no touts nor tourist within the foray. I saw one person in the mosque which was there for a prayer and I took my kneeling position to blend in while admiring the serenity of the place.

Inside of The Old Mosque of Ahmedabad

There was a lot of walking for me and lots of shops was closed …. Was it because of the Riot or because I was walking on a Sunday, I had no idea but it was a weird void of the people bustle that one get so used to in India. 

Ahmedabad Town

Since I figure out the taxi meter scam I was now within budget to travel further and see more using the tuk tuk.

Ghandi Holy Grail is here as well in Ahmedabad … I knew this from good ol KTan hence the stop in Ahmedabad for a visit. Ghandi house or ashram where he live with the community folks is in Ahmedabad. Irony that the holy grail of Ghandi where a great movement of non-violence took the world with such force was now reduce to the same as everyone else. 

Entrance to Gandhi Ashram

Gandhi Ashram - House in Ahmedabad

In the house was plain and simple, lots of historical timeline and newspaper clipping were put up in boards describing the greatness or the plainness of Ghandi everyday life. In a way reading the interesting extract of Ghandi without all the grandeur of revolution, seams to me that Ghandi was a very very eccentric man …

The thing he does makes no sense and yet he does them if to just prove a point that only he created the argument in the beginning. Safe to say … I would not be picking up any Ghandi book anytime soon …. 

The ashram was peaceful, no beggers no touts and even the taxi drivers outside was politely waiting for you to approach them instead of in your face … come come …. I can say Ahmedabad will be forgotten for it did not leave any impact on me.

I left the next day early morning catching a bus to Udaipur.

One eventually get cheated in India …. Its only a matter of time.

I was on the journey to Ahmedabad from Mumbai … late in the evening I was headed to the bus stand for an overnight bus ride. Taking a walk in the rain to the bus waiting point I finally used the poncho I bought in Peru. The so called bus stop was a small little shack of a travel agency. I was semi shocked I guess for I was not used to the bus system in India but then again what the hell …. 

The agency was a man just minding his own business … everyone just wait at the road looking at the massive traffic jam and hoping a bus would pull up. None of the bus pulled up and sometimes you see one person stops a bus for a second before hopping on. 

Luckily the bus I was going on was late …. I manage to decipher the bus code system in time … else I would have missed the bus and no one to help me with it. The bus all had a name written on the top of the bus like a dark screen and it is plastered big in bright colours so one can spot it a mile away even at night. The ticket gives the name of the bus … so all those people waiting by the road was looking out for busses with the right name …. 

Fortunately I was looking too and not waiting inside the crappy travel agent shack and when the bus did come I had to flag it and ran after it … I was the only boarding that bus from that junction. The travel agent did nothing …. If I did not see the bus I would have missed it and left holding a useless ticket and with no place to stay the night. 

Ok so I was in the bus now … got my sleeper bunk and it was air-con …. A quick look and no toilet on the bus … this was not South America ….. I am regretting the bus ride already. No sheets too … I so miss AC class on the train …. And no blanket nor pillow …. Air-con was freaking cold too … it now remind me of the greyhound bus in USA …. Luckily I pinched the sheets from the train … it was now my thin sheet of blanket which was all it needed to keep my body heat with me.

The bumbs, the horn, the sudden swaying … the bus was trying his best to get out of the Mumbai traffic and it was almost driving me sick …. Motion sick …. I hate the bus already

Once we were out and on the road it was not that bad thou ….. stolen sheet for a blanket, a toilet break every 4 hours and but then early morning and I got jerk woken up by a splash of dripping cold wet air con water leaking from the overhead vents. I hate the bus. 

Reached Ahmedabad and guess what .. the bus chucks me out outside the city … I so miss the train now …. A bit slower is still better than a bus. Then again the bus was not even faster than the train … it took 12 hours, 2 hours longer than the train allocated time … f*ckers …. Rs 1700 too.

This is where the cheating started …

When the bus spits me out, vultures of Auto-rickshaw drivers with big grins was fighting to see who can eat the delicious yellow man. I was in the outskirts of the city …. Nothing nearby to help me get to the city …. Rickshaw is all there is …. And they know it ….

I settle for the first guy who spoke …. What was I to do anyway …. Plus when I asked how much he said meter …. Fishy but then again I really did not have a choice …. And after a long journey decision making aren’t that good anymore. Inspecting the meter it was those mechanical distance counter like one normally see on a car or motorbike. Rigged to show the distance in numbers …. I was guessing it was tuned differently to show the price of the journey, …. Not electronic anyway so how bad could it be ….

He took me to where I wanted to go approximately since I had no idea where I was going, anywhere other than the area near the train station and the sights … Bandra colony …. Another light up glint in his eyes as he realized I dun have a hotel booking and he brought me to the first recommendation … good hotel he said ….. 

How Much I asked the hotel manager …

Rs 2000 …..

No …. 

As the hotel manager tries to desperately cling to his only customer, the price actually drop till Rs1200 …. F*ckers …

The second hotel was much better …. They had a board and it was clearly stated Rs 700 for a night in non – ac …. I could do with that and settle on it. 

Time to pay the rickshaw driver …. The meter had jumped till 467 …I thought it was a long ride but it was still high …. I gave him 500 and left it at there and he left ….. Later chit chatting with the hotel desk guy, the hotel guy told me it was a little high … or rather very high …. 

How does one charge with the meters anyway in Ahmedabad I asked …. 

The meter was this round thing at the side of the cab …. But then that was not the meter but the point counter based on the kilometres travelled …. Then one has to ask the rickshaw driver for the price chart … you then convert the points to the price in Rs ….

The Auto-Rickshaw Meter in Ahmedabad

Going on other rickshaws with this knowledge visiting sights in Ahmedabad I studied one … and it was about 250 which was the fee I was soppose to pay the first ride … that guy got me I guess …. Sooner or later you get caught in their scheme … 

Everyone gets cheated in India sooner or later …

Travelled on : Aug 2015