Are you a photographer?

Do you....

a) Own a camera?

Having a camera doesn't make one a photographer anymore than having a hammer and a chisel makes one a carpenter. Or, owning a racehorse makes one a jockey.

 

b) Know how to use a DSLR?

There are people who use a DSLR in the course of their work (e.g. a biologist, or an orthodontist) but do not have any interest in photography. Hence, knowing how to use a DSLR does not necessarily make one a photographer. 

c) Love to take photographs?

These days, many people take photos exclusively with a smartphone. They also publish or share photos in the social media. Yet most of these people will not call themselves a photographer.

d) Have ability to do post editing?

Strictly speaking, post editing cannot be used to determine if one is a photographer or not. It wasn't so long ago that people were still using film and the darkroom and photoshop was unheard of. We cannot disqualify all the photographers of  yore just because they did not do any post editing on a computer!  

 

e) Have extensive knowledge of cameras and lenses?

If that makes you a photographer, then why are photography schools not spending more time training their students on cameras and lenses?

f) Have lots of photography equipment?

Does having a garage full of tools make you a carpenter or a mechanic?

So, who is a photographer?

Now that I have listed down what does not make one a photographer, I am obliged to offer my view of what makes one a photographer. A photographer is one who strives to master the art or the craft of photography, depending on whether he defines for himself that it is an art or it is a craft. It is a continuous quest and it never ends. You are a photographer when you start to call yourself one and seriously begin on a continuous journey to master the art (or craft). 

WB350F sample - Sunrise and Photo Frame

I had to pull myself out of bed this morning to try out how well the camera captures a sunrise. You'll have to take my word for it that the sunrise is quite accurately represented here.

F/3.5, 1/180s, ISO 80

The image below is a feature called "My Magic Frame". In this mode, you first capture an image to use as a background; in this case, a fishbowl. Then you mask out a desired area using the touchscreen. Then capture a second shot; in this case it is the dog. I ended with this gruesome picture of a decapitated dog's head inside a fishbowl! Sorry, Yuna!

WB350F sample video and Motion Photo

This is shot at 1920x1080 resolution.

 This is a frame grab from the above video clip.

This is an animated image (resolution fixed at 640x480). It is a feature Samsung calls "Motion Photo". Quite a fun feature to have, and not commonly found.

WB350F sample images - Zoom and Panorama

Here is a shot into the living room, followed by the same shot at 21x zoom. The camera was in fully auto mode, handheld. Notice that the second image appears to be quite stable, no doubt thanks to the image stabilizer at work.

F/6.3, 1/30s, ISO 240

F/6.9, 1/45s, ISO 400

The bottom two are panoramic shots of the living room. Camera was set in Panorama mode. The images appear as they are straight out of the camera. Despite very brightly lit windows, the exposure appears to be spot on.

F/4, 1/125s, ISO 320

F/4, 1/180s, ISO 320

Best wifi camera - Samsung WB350F

At a regular price of AUD$199, the Samsung WB350F is one of the best value-for-money pocketable point-and-shoot wifi camera one can get today. If you are a photographer and you yearn to have a high end smartphone simply because of its better image quality, this camera might make you think twice. The host of connectivity options is plentiful:

1. Built-in wifi hotspot. Some cameras use Eye-Fi for their wifi solution. (The Eye-Fi is a 3rd party flash memory card, and the wifi built into it does not work on all cameras.) With its built-in wifi hotspot. I can transfer an image to a smartphone or a tablet before or after taking the shot (prior download of app is required). I can also do batch transfer. I can preview the images either on the camera or on the smartphone. If enabled, I can transfer every shot as soon as it is taken (this happens in real time, but with a few seconds delay in between shots)

2. Built-in NFC. With one tap, I can transfer an image I am viewing, on to a NFC-enabled smartphone. Or, if in shooting mode, the WB350F will automatically turn the smartphone into a remote viewfinder for the camera. I can trigger the shot using the smartphone.

3. Built-in wifi recognition. The WB350F can detect and connect to any wifi hotspot out there. Note that not every wifi camera can do this. With this, I can email a photo straight from the camera to anyone; I can upload to cloud storage;  and I can upload to social media like Facebook, Picasa, and Youtube.

With the above connectivity options, the WB350F is a perfect solution for anyone who has been exclusively shooting with a smartphone. This camera comes with a 1/2.3" BSI-CMOS sensor, which can be found in high-end smartphone cameras. Needless to say, the image quality is as just as good as or better than what you see in a top end Samsung Galaxy phone. The built-in effects and filters are available on both stills (16MP) as well as on video (1920x1080, 30fps).

 


Here are some of the other features I find to be either interesting or useful on the WB350F:

a. Touch screen display. Navigating on the menu is so much easier with a touch screen display, especially if you are trying to type out an email address.

b. Charging via USB port. I find this very, very handy indeed. No more one-of-a-kind charger to lug around.

c. Frame grab. While reviewing a video clip on the camera, I can simply extract a frame as a jpeg image. Alternatively, I can shoot a still image while recording a video.

d. Effects and filters. A full range of effects and filters, commonly found in a smartphone, is available on the WB350F. The effects and filters can be applied either before or after taking the shot.

e. Powerful white balance control. White balance can be set using AWB, one of the presets, setting colour temperature manually, or custom shooting into a white background. Each of the presets (e.g. Daylight) can also be fine-tuned to your liking.

 Next time, I shall post some images taken with the WB350F. So far, I have found this to be a very delightful camera, having far more camera features and software features than any non-Samsung cameras, at any price. Yes, that says a lot!

Prior to this, I had planned to eventually upgrade to a high end smartphone simply for its better image quality. With the WB350F, I now have a real and dedicated camera with all the connectivity options and the fun-filled features of a smartphone, and an unrestrained battery life. As you can guess, I have struck the high end smartphone off my shopping list.

How to shoot a sharp image

I have to admit that despite my technical knowledge about all the controls on a DLSR camera, I really know very little when it comes to achieving tack sharp images. I hope all this is about to change with the time and research I have invested in the last few days.

All the  information I ever got in any photography course about focusing was not enough to get me there. Typically, the lessons cover camera holding technique, use of tripod and remote control, and correct setting of minimum shutter speed. The more advanced topics may cover hyperfocal distance, and use of mirror lock up to reduce camera shake.

With the above knowledge, I have never really mastered the art of getting consistently tack sharp images. Therefore I jumped at the opportunity to read a book called "Tack Sharp" by James Brandon when I signed up for a special 5-Day Deal on photography. The book did not help me at all (later, on re-examining the book, I found that it did cover the important camera settings I am going to talk about) but it did trigger me to do something about it.

I pasted some printed papers on the wall and started target shooting practice. Fixing the shutter speed at 1/50 sec, I got some disastrous result; I have over-rated myself at my own hand holding stability. I increased it to 1/80 sec (i.e. I was shooting with 24-70mm lens) I started to get better focus more often. Therein lies my Discovery No.1: the experts were right. The minimum hand held shutter speed must be faster than 1/(focal length).

Discovery No.2: Using another camera, the Olympus OMD-EM5, I managed to achieve consistently sharp focus even when hand holding at 1/45s on the equivalent of a 90mm lens. The image stabilizer actually works! Previously I was using a Nikon D700 which has no image stabilizer.

Discovery No.3: I "discovered" that many pro shooters out there actually (not surprisingly...) use the fancy camera settings available on the higher end DSLR. I re-discovered the back button focus "AF-On", which allows me to focus using a separate button other than the shutter release. I also learn to take advantage of the AF-C servo focus. I also learn when to use the Single Point AF and when to use the Dynamic auto focus to achieve better result.

Discovery No.4: My OMD-EM5 with a simple $250 45mm lens, does a far better job at focusing than my D700 with a ~$2000 24-70mm lens.

Now that I think I have a better understanding about focusing, perhaps I might next learn the fine art of lens appreciation. Frankly, with all the wonders that a simple bit of photoshopping can do, I am not a big connoisseur of lenses.

Cost of Micro Four Thirds camera vs Full Frame camera

Micro Four Thirds (MFT) camera bodies are relatively inexpensive, compared to a full frame (FF) camera, but the MFT lenses are much more expensive than FF camera lenses. Is the cost justified? Here is the math.

For this study, I compare a top tier full frame Nikon camera versus a top tier micro four thirds Olympus camera. I use a range of lenses that a serious general photographer might purchase, citing prices (in US$) from the reputable B&H store. For lenses, I chose FF lenses that are closest in focal length/maximum aperture to the MFT equivalent.

Nikon D800 (full frame sensor)
--------------------------------------
$2997: camera body
$121: 50mm f/1.8D lens
$360: 24mm f/2.8D AF
$899: 180mm f/2.8D
$670: 24-70mm f/2.8-f/4.0D
Total=$5047

Olympus OMD EM1 (micro four thirds sensor)
---------------------------------------------------------
$1399: camera body
$399: 25mm f/1.8 (*DOF=f/3.7) M.Zuiko
$799: 12mm f/2.0 (*DOF=f/4.0) M.Zuiko
$899: 75mm f/1.8 (*DOF=f/3.7) M.Zuiko
$999: 12-40mmf/2.8 (*DOF=f/5.6) M.Zuiko
Total=$4495

In summary, although a MFT camera body costs only about half of a FF body, the cost a complete lens/body system is actually only about 10% different.

You might notice that the true DOF difference is 2 f-stops worse in the MFT than in the FF system. Therefore the deal breaker is not in the price, but in the equivalent depth of field. That is to say, if you want maximum depth-of-field in your images, a FF camera is irreplaceable.


(*DOF = Depth of Field equivalent. A MFT sensor gives the lens a crop factor of 2. Not only is the focal length multiplied by a factor of 2, but the depth of field also increases by 2 f-stops)

Smartphone camera versus dedicated camera

While a smartphone camera is a practical one to carry; it is definitely practical to carry a dedicated camera.

Nowadays a top-of-the-range smartphone comes with a very capable camera indeed. In many cases the image quality is on par with that taken with a compact camera, if we are talking about sharing on social media, making prints, or even making a photobook. And I really mean just the top-of-the-range smartphones, if you are serious about image quality.

However, there is a good reason to buy a dedicated camera, say a compact point-and-shoot camera. The difference is in how fast you can shoot. I am talking about 4 kinds of "fastness".

1. It takes several moments to get the smartphone ready to shoot, whereas it is almost instantaneous with a dedicated camera. The same goes for video; a reasonably good camera nowadays has a dedicated video button. At anytime one can immediately press the video button to shoot video without changing the settings.

2. Focusing speed. A camera generally can focus faster. That is not only because it has a dedicated processor, but also because it has a dedicated shutter release button. You don't get that on a smartphone, unless you are buying the oddball Samsung Galaxy Camera (a hybrid between smartphone and camera).

3. Shot-to-shot speed. Once an image is taken, it is processed and saved in the camera. The smartphone takes a noticeably longer time to do this than even a budget point-and-shoot camera. Hence you can shoot many times over on a dedicated camera before your very obliging subject disappears.

4. Shutter lag. Shutter lag is becoming less of an issue with a good smartphone. This is the time between pressing the shutter release button and when the image is actually captured. Thus the reason for the half closed eyes and the faded smile.

For a photographer, there is another reason to use a dedicated camera, even when conditions are favourable for shooting with just a smartphone. The reason is image compression. For now, images from smartphones come only in Jpegs, whereas a good compact is able to shoot RAW. This allows the photographer more flexibility in post-processing work to improve the image; if nothing else, at least for exposure and white balance correction.

Travelling with a point-and-shoot and a flashgun

I have just returned home from a holiday in Malaysia and Jogjakarta, with about 2500 shots to show for. On this trip I took just my Lumix LX7 and my SB600 flashgun, which was used only in the manual mode. So what have I got to tell, as far as shooting satisfaction goes? 

First of all, let me qualify by saying that the shots were purely social shots (or record shots). The intent was to get properly exposed, technically good shots, rather than competition-quality shots (which is always difficult to do on a family event).

During this trip I had many opportunities to use the flashgun: a wedding dinner, inside a museum, just before sunrise and just after sunset, inside a batik factory, and an indoor social gathering. A high percentage of the shots were taken with the flash. 

Here is my experience. The flash-aided shootings went as well as I imagined they would be, but could be improved. For one, I think I should have kept the ISO fixed at 80 (the lowest possible in the LX7). I used the P mode, which worked quite well. On hindsight, it wouldn't have hurt to keep it in M mode with speed setting of 1/60s and aperture wide open.

In the following, the wedding dinner image was at ISO 100, the sunset was at ISO 100, the factory hand was at ISO 400, and the museum was at ISO 80. All were shot at speed 1/60s, with Stofen diffuser fitted on flash.

In the wedding dinner scene, a large sensor high-ISO camera would have been better, especially since the presence of large mirrors actually created an annoying flare in some of the other images when the flash fired. This LX7/flash combo worked alright, but only just. In the other scenes, I did not miss having my Nikon D700 with me, as the tiny LX7 was a joy to carry around (although not the fairly large flash gun). I did get a few looks from other photographers at the wedding, as I must have looked odd holding the LX7 on one hand, and the flash on the other.

Cherry blossoms

I can imagine why poets and painters muse over the cherry blossoms. Even I cannot help but be mesmerized by its frail beauty as I clicked away happily at the cherry blossoms in front of my house this morning. The flowers bloom only once a year, and even then for only a couple of weeks. During this time, my eyes will feast hungrily at the sight of the beautiful blossoms. They remind me of a picture I once received of a beautiful girl posing next to the cherry blossoms.

Who needs a smartcamera, anyway

First we have the smartphone. Then we have the smartTV. Now cameras are evolving into "smartcameras" as manufacturers race to add Android and wifi and internet features to their new cameras.

I was also caught up in that hype myself. I thought that it would be nice to be able to publish or email the images as soon as they are captured, all without going through a PC. I almost bought the Nikon S800C (Android camera) when it was first released. I was totally sold on the idea... until now.

With reference to my previous blog, it is all too easy to use an Android smartphone or tablet to view images from the memory card directly. This is more sensible than building Android capability into the camera. Putting Android into a camera adds cost but little benefit to a photographer who has a smartphone or a tablet. I would rather have a conventional camera. If I am away from home, I would prefer to use a tablet to view the images after a shoot. And I can still do everything I would have been able to do with a smartcamera (i.e. edit, email, share). Yes, all on a bigger screen than that of a camera.

How about wifi-enabled camera? I think there is also limited use for this. I was also quite enthused about the idea before. However, it takes several seconds for even a small file to appear on a remote screen after the camera snaps the picture. With a tethered cable, it is a bit faster, but again it is not instantaneous enough. I would rather view the images after a shoot, and selectively download what I want to keep. The rest is trash.

View DSLR images on your Android

Here is an easy way to use your Android device to view images captured with a normal camera. You just need an OTG cable (see image below. You can get one for as little as AUD$1 on eBay). You would also need a card reader.

There are several image viewer apps you can use. I use the built-in "My Files" app. This app helps you to navigate around files and folders like you are used to on a PC. You can download any image from the USB/OTG-connected storage, and then "share" it via Gmail, Facebook, etc; or download selected images on to your Android.

Here is the step-by-step instruction. Remove the memory card from your camera and plug it into your card reader. Use the OTG cable to connect the card reader to your Android device. Open up the "My Files" app and click on the USB folder. You can now start to view your  images.

Portrait shot

Here is a simple portrait shot I did last Saturday.

Mottled backdrop for studio portrait shots

The hardest thing about buying a mottled backdrop is deciding which colour you need. It is difficult to tell just by looking at it. Actual shooting is different. After tossing back and forth between a selection of colours, I decided to go for the one as shown here.

I tried out this backdrop last Sunday. I must say I am pretty pleased with the result, much to my relief!

Yongnuo YN560-II Flash Speedlite

This might be the best flash gun for those new to flash photography. A friend of mine loaned me this flash gun for a couple of days. This is a China-made product, costing under AUD$70 in eBay (new). Being a manual flash, it can be used with any camera as long as there is a way to trigger the flash.

Used off-camera, the flash is triggered by using a PC cable (in M or manual mode) or via the built-in optical sensor (S1 or S2; slave modes). Used on-camera, simply mount it onto the hot shoe of a camera and use the M mode.

Why I love this flash:
Very inexpensive.
Very simple to use.
Settings in 8 levels of flash intensity
Zoom setting of 24mm to 105mm
Guide number of 58 , as strong as the top end Canon or Nikon speedlites.

What this flash does not do:
There is no TTL mode
There is no built-in remote trigger
There is no high speed sync

Weakness:
I found that the optical sensor is not very consistent. If I use my D700 to trigger it, I have to set it to S2. While S1 also triggers the flash, only S2 will sync properly to light up the subject. On my LX7, it will trigger the flash only in S1 mode; however the flash is not in sync and the subject does not get lighted. Hence, try out before buying if you are counting on using the optical trigger.

What this flash is great for:
For beginners, this flash is very user-friendly. The interface is very basic. One can learn to control it almost rightaway. Great for anyone who is intimidated by the highly sophisticated and highly expensive proprietary top end speedlites, which can cost ten times more.

For advanced users, this flash is excellent as a second flash. For example, as a secondary light in a multi-light source setup. It is also great for use in a home studio, due to the ease of making manual adjustments.

Note: The 560-II has been superceded by the 560-III. The latter comes with built-in remote control. However, the user interface has also grown significantly more complicated. Personally, I would prefer the 560-II over the 560-III. For more sophisticated applications, I would go for top end proprietary speedlites.

Notes to myself: Focus stacking

Learning about photography techniques is not as good as actually doing it. Therefore I was glad I did not miss last night's educational night at the camera club. I learned to use the adjustment rails I bought quite a while back, but never put to use. The following image shows how the rails are put together to provide x-y movement. This inexpensive contraption can be used for focus stacking in macro shots. With an L-bracket added, it can also be used for panorama shots.

After shooting a set of images with varying focal points, the images have to be processed in Photoshop to combine into one image. Here are the steps to do focus stacking in PS:
1) Files>Scripts>Load files into stack (to load multiple images into layers in PS)
2) Edit>Auto-Align Layers (to align the layers in a focus stack)
3) Edit>Auto-Blend Layers (to blend the layers)


As an added bonus, I saw someone using an interesting camera app that night. This app is called DslrDashboard. This app allows me to use an Android phone to control my DSLR camera via a USB cable. It looks very interesting. I have installed the app but am waiting for my USB OTG cable to arrive before I can try out the app. I am hoping to be able to use the larger screen of an Android device as the LCD display for my shootings. Image viewing is but only one of a myriad of features this app is capable of. But don't hold your breath if you are not a Nikon user... DslrDashboard is primarily for Nikon, plus some Canon cameras. Even then, it is not for all models.

Alfred Nicholas Memorial Garden

The Dandenong Ranges are still full of unexplored sites for me. Take for example the Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens. I have heard it being mentioned many times before, but I have never visited it until now. Bathed in the colourful splendour of autumn, this is simply a must-see place for any photographer. You have to be fit enough to make the almost one kilometer long steep walk down to the lake and back (which I still am, obviously). In the absence of other visitors, the isolation and serenity of the lake feels truly magical. Enjoy the pictures!

The cheapest good camera

According to a Bill of Materials report (re: IHS iSuppli Research, March 2012), the camera component of the iPad3 costs only US$12.35. On the iPad2, it costs even less; US$4.10. Of course, I am sure this only refers to the lens and sensor components. The other costs of the iPad3 : display ($87), touchscreen ($40), processor ($23), battery ($32), and so on. But my point is, it only costs $12.35 for Apple to include a really good camera in the iPad3. No doubt it also costs Samsung and others more or less the same amount to include a good camera into the tablet or smartphone.

As for the quality of the images taken by a high end smartphones (i.e. iPhone, Samsung Galaxy, Sony Xperia, etc), they are now comparable to images taken by most point and shoot cameras. Image quality is no longer the differentiator. The web-publishing features and carry-anywhere convenience of a smartphone is what counterbalances the advantages of a faster turn-on time, longer battery life and the zoom lens in a P&S (point-and-shoot) camera. Even video shooting on a smartphone has caught up with the P&S world.

To underscore the coming of age of "iphoneography", the Australian Photographic Society is launching its inaugural Mobile Phone Photography Showcase in July 2013.

So if you ask me today what is the cheapest good camera to buy, I might tell you to look no further than to upgrade your smartphone or tablet. Or, if you are an Apple aficionado, your iPod, iPhone or iPad. The only caveat is, what is your image making goal?

Notes to myself: Insights into black-and-white photography

The talk at the camera club tonight taught me what a novice I am at black-and-white photography. I realize that up until now all I know about making black and white images are just the methods and not the skill. (It is like learning to drive a car. You can learnt to operate a car in a few minutes. But it takes years of practice before you become good at it).

The speakers tonight are from the Ringwood Black-and-White Camera Club. They have been doing it since the film and darkroom days. Here are some useful tips I have picked up tonight. They are not all new or astounding, but I have gained a clearer insight.

1. We "see" images with our brain and not our eyes. The brain has an uncanny ability to just focus in on any subject and filter out everything else. B&W simply helps us to focus better than colour images on the artwork in an image. Colour distracts.

2, The eye has more green receptors than red or blue receptors. Also, in dim light, the black-and-white receptors are more effective than the colour receptors. Therefore in dim light we see things more or less in B&W. When an image is presented in B&W, our perception is heightened, just like when the light is dim, all our senses are in high alert. I don't know how true this is scientifically, but it makes sense.

3. Not all subjects lend themselves well to B&W. Rainbow, colourful flowers, and sunset are examples of what won't do well in B&W. As in colour images, a B&W photographer knows what type of shots to go after.

4. In B&W conversion, it is necessary to control the R, G, and B channels separately to bring out the contrast successfully. (Not sure if this is due to the fact our eyes have more green receptors than red or blue receptors). Just moving the contrast slider is not good enough. Also, make use of colour filters and dodge and burn tools to do selective toning.

5. A B&W image is better at evoking an emotion in the viewer. Therefore a successful B&W image is one that can evoke an emotion.

In summary, the beauty of B&W, done properly on a suitably chosen subject, can turn an ordinary image into a piece of art, just like some of the portrait images I saw tonight.

Baby photo shoot

I did a photo shoot for some friends last week. This is my first attempt at "semi-pro" type of work and I am glad it turned out well. Here are my favourite shots of the day.

Baby and family friend

Baby surrounded by friends

Baby and Mum