Showing posts with label Edith Head. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Edith Head. Show all posts

Sunday, January 1, 2012

GLORIA SWANSON READY FOR HER CLOSE UP”

“I am big…it’s the pictures that got small”… Norma Desmond



Sunset Boulevard is undoubtedly a film noir classic and is considered to be one of the most noteworthy films in American cinema history.



Nominated for eleven Academy Awards and winning three, the film was selected for perseveration by the National Film Registry. It has at times ranked in the top 10 films ever made and remains on the American Film Institute's list of the 100 best American films.

“Sunset Boulevard” was released in 1950 by Paramount Pictures. It was directed by the great Billy Wilder.



The film tells the story of Joe Gillis, an unsuccessful screenwriter, played by William Holden who stumbles across the Hollywood mansion home of yesteryear in which Norma Desmond lives. A faded silent movie star, Gloria Swanson plays Norma. The film also stars the legendary director Erich Von Stroheim who plays Max, Desmond’s butler.

Swanson was indeed one of the great stars of the silent era. Swanson worked at Paramount Pictures and with Cecil B DeMille. For a time she was the highest paid star in Hollywood. In that respect she was born to play the role. Some say that the role was based on another silent film star, Norma Talmadge. The similarities however happily end there. The scene in which she appears with DeMille (who plays himself) and meeting Desmond after a long absence is a heart-warming one in terms of their history and careers. DeMille refers to Desmond as “Young Fella” in the scene, a name he lovingly created for Swanson.

Several of Desmond's lines, such as, "All right Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my close-up," and "I am big, it's the pictures that got small!" are widely remembered and quoted from the film.

The film has also been talked about for its film noir cinematography which is of course dark.

From this film classic is a pink chiffon nightgown was worn by Gloria Swanson.









The gown carries a Paramount costume label bearing Swanson's name sewn inside the front.



The gown features chiffon pin pleats with a bow at the centre of the chest and two ribbon shoulder straps on either side.



Edith Head designed the costumes. In collaboration, Billy Wilder, Edith Head and Swanson agreed that Desmond the character would have kept up to date with trends and styles in fashion, so Edith Head designed costumes closely resembling the Dior look of the mid-1940s.





Edith Head in later years discussed working on the film as being "the most challenging of my career,". The approach she gave to the task was explained as "Because Norma Desmond was an actress who had become lost in her own imagination, I tried to make her look like she was always impersonating someone." Edith Head would also rely on Swanson's expertise as in her words, Swanson was the past that was being recreated and Swanson lived that time.



Edith Head also designed the costumes for William Holden and the minor characters; but for authenticity, Wilder instructed Von Stroheim and Nancy Olson to wear their own clothing.



The costume can be seen in two sequences in the film. The first is Joe Gillis’ first day at the Desmond mansion when he finds his belongings have been moved from his apartment and into her mansion. Norman tells him “he will like it here” and the wonderful line…”Do you want this job or don’t you?”…yes he wanted the job but at what price. The costume comes in at 12.38:



The second scene it is worn in we get to see the more manic, delusional and shall we say psychotic Norma when she believes that her script of Salome is to be made by Paramount and Cecil B DeMille. In the scene she is saying good night to Joe and at the same time accusing him of going out. Joe tells her he hasn’t done anything to which she replies…’of course you haven’t, I wouldn’t let you”. The costume comes in at 1:08:



And here is the original trailer for the film:



The theme of the film is best summed up in the closing monologue of Norma..

“I can’t go on with this scene, I’m too happy. Mr. DeMille do you mind if I say a few words? Thank you. I just want to tell you all how happy I am to be back in the studio making a picture again. You don’t know how much I’ve missed all of you. And I promise you I’ll never desert you again because after ‘Salome’ we’ll make another picture and another picture. You see, this is my life. It always will be. There’s nothing else. Just us, the cameras, and those wonderful people out there in the dark!… All right, Mr. DeMille, I’m ready for my close-up.”



Gloria Swanson stood 4' 11½". Her stature and presence on the screen however soared.





Swanson appeared in a few more films after this role however in reality they did not compare. She is also remembered for her cameo appearance in the 1975 film “Airport”.



Gloria Swanson died on April 4, 1983 in New York City at the age of 84.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

NINA FOCH A DUTCH BORN AMERICAN IN PARIS



This full length period lavender gown was worn by Nina Foch in the Cecil B. DeMille 1956 epic, The Ten Commandments in which she played Bithia, Pharaoh's sister who found the baby Moses in the bullrushes, adopted him as her son, and joined him and the Hebrews in their Exodus from Egypt.







The costume was worn by Nina Foch in the scene where Charlton Heston as Moses approaches Bithia and confronts her with the Hebrew cloth that Moses was found in an a child.





The costume can be seen in the video below and comes in at 6:20, sorry I could not find an English version on youtube:



The gown is also worn in the next scene where Moses visits his real mother. The costume is worn under a robe for that scene.

Slightly altered from its original use, the clasp to the front was changed for use in another production. Not worked it out yet.





I was lucky enough to also come across the bracelet that is worn by Foch in the scene with the costume and managed to get them back together again. Below is the bracelet.





Costumes for the film were designed by an array of talent available to Paramount at the time including Arnold Friberg, Edith Head, Dorothy Jeakins, John Jensen and Ralph Jester. Added to this are at least 20 more talents that were not credited to the final work. With an epic such as this, the task of costuming not only stars such as Nina Foch, Anne Baxter, Charlton Heston and Yul Brynner but thousands of extras with filming in the US as well as in Egypt.

Below is a copy of the original sketch of the Nina Foch gown from the film.



Here also is photo of Nina Foch on the set in costume.



Dutch born Nina Foch has appeared in many memorable films of the 40’s and 50s including Marie Antoinette in Scaramouche (1952), Executive Suite (1954), starring William Holden, Spartacus (1960) opposite Kirk Douglas and Laurence Olivier and An American In Paris with Gene Kelly in 1951.







Nina Foch spent the last 40 years of her life not only performing however teaching acting and directing at major teaching institutions. Foch was a forty-year member of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.





Foch was married three times, one time to James Lipton host of Inside the Actors Studio.





Foch died in December 2008, of complications from a blood disorder.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

DOROTHY LAMOUR THE SARONG GIRL



Dorothy Lamour was an American film actress who is best remembered for her performances in the series of “Road to..” films opposite Bing Crosby and Bob Hope.

Dorothy Lamour is also remembered for her many films in which she wore the characteristic sarong dress, which was deigned for her by the legendary Edith Head during her years at Paramount pictures. Lamour first appeared in the sarong in the 1936 Paramount film “The Jungle Princess”. In fact she appeared in 11 films thereafter in Sarong. Audiences remember Lamour best for these films.



During the World War II years, Lamour remained amongst the most popular pinup girls including Betty Grable, Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner and Veronica Lake. Lamour was also heavily involved in the creation of war bond tours in which movie stars travelled the country selling U.S. government bonds.

Here is an elegant black satin halter gown worn by Dorothy Lamour in the film Masquerade In Mexico (1945). Costumes designed by Edith Head. The gown features intricate lace design to the bodice and trim to the hem. The film tells the story of an American singer stranded in Mexico who is hired by a banker to distract a Mexican matador who is making a play for the banker's wife. They hatch a scheme whereby she pretends to be a Spanish countess.



The costume appears in many production stills made for the film and for Paramount advertising. The costume also appears on the poster advertising for the film.





A wonderful Edith Head creation for one of Paramount’s biggest box office draws of the 1930’s and 1940’s.