Buddy Bear Pattern

Here is a sweet crocheted bear pattern for sharing. Skills needed are single crochet, crocheting in the rouad, increases and decreases. It's fairly easy and you can pretty much use any yarn that you like. I used a light worsted/sport on the pink and yellow bears and worsted weight on the brown bear which came out slightly larger. The pattern is written for a striped bear but feel free to use two colors to achieve a more traditional looking Buddy Bear. Enjoy and let me know if you make one!! I've posted this on Ravelry so welcome new friends!

Buddy Bears*



Materials:
1 - 2 skeins of worsted weight yarn or 2 - 3 skeins of acrylic/cotton blend yarn (sport weight)
size H hook (for worsted weight yarn) or size G (for sport weight yarn)
stitch marker or safety pin
Buttons
stuffing (Polyfil)
yarn needle

Gauge:
gauge is not essential to this pattern. Just be sure to match the correct hook size to the
weight of yarn that you choose.

Abbreviations:
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together (decrease)
m/r - magic ring

Notes:
If you are unsure how to start off with a magic ring just chain two and create the appropriate
number of stitches in the first chain instead.

Remember to use your stitch marker to keep your count correct.
You will not be joining at the end of the rows, you will be crocheting in a spiral.

The number at the end of the row instructions are the number of stitches you should have after each
completed row.

Stuff your bear fully so he's not too floppy. If you think it's not enough stuffing it probably
isn't :P

The color changes listed in the pattern below are for a bear wearing a t-shirt, socks and
mittens. The colors are just an example and you can use whatever color combos you like
and can add stripes on the body, arms and legs as you wish. You can also do everything in
one color as well.

COLOR A - Pink
COLOR B - White
COLOR C - Light Brown
Color D - Yellow

Head & Body:

With color A -
6 sc into m/r (see note) - place marker in last stitch and move with each round so as not to
lose count - DO NOT JOIN
2 sc into each stitch (12)
(1 sc in first stitch, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (18)
(1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (24)
(1 sc in first 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (30)
(1 sc in first 4 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (36)
(1 sc in first 5 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (42)
(1 sc in first 6 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (48)
(1 sc in first 7 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (54)
(1 sc in first 8 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (60)
1 sc in each stitch around for 12 rounds (60)
(1 sc in first 8 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (54)
(1 sc in first 7 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (48)
(1 sc in first 6 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (42)
(1 sc in first 5 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (36)
(1 sc in first 4 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (30)
(1 sc in first 3 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (24)
Change to color B -
1 sc in each stitch around for 3 rounds (24)

STUFF HEAD

Change to color C -
1 sc in each stitch around for 1 round (24)
(1 sc in first 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (30)
(1 sc in first 4 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (36)
1 sc in each stitch around for 5 rows (36)
(1 sc in first 5 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (42)
1 sc in each stitch around for 2 rows (42)
Change to color B -
1 sc in each stitch around for 2 rows (42)
Change to color A -
1 sc in each stitch around for 4 rows (42)
(1 sc in first 6 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (48)
1 sc in each stitch around for 6 rows (48)
(1 sc in first 6 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (42)
(1 sc in first 5 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (36)
(1 sc in first 4 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (30)
(1 sc in first 3 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (24)
(1 sc in first 2 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (18)

STUFF BODY

(1 sc in first 1 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (12)
(sc2tog) repeat around (6)
finish off leaving a long tail (about 10 inches), Thread yarn needle onto tail and weave in and
out of remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close up the circle. secure the thread with a knot
and bury inside of body.

Ears (make 2):

With Color A -
6 sc into m/r (see note) - place marker in last stitch and move with each round so as not to
lose count - DO NOT JOIN
2 sc into each stitch (12)
(1 sc in first stitch, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (18)
(1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (24)
(1 sc in first 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (30)
1 sc in each stitch around for 4 rows (30)
finish off leaving a long yarn tail (about 12 inches). Thread yarn needle onto tail and fold ears
in half to sew them to the head. I find it easier to place the ears if I pin them to the head
before sewing down and only locking in the yarn tail (after sewing) once both ears are on.
That way it is easier to pull out your stitches if you need to reposition the ear.

Nose:

With Color B -
same as ear instructions though do not fold in half. Place on face and stitch down, leaving a
space to stuff the nose and then closing up and locking in yarn tail.

Tail:

With Color A -
6 sc into m/r (see note) - place marker in last stitch and move with each round so as not to
lose count - DO NOT JOIN
2 sc into each stitch (12)
1 sc in each stitch around for 1 row (12)
finish off leaving a long yarn tail (about 6 inches). Thread yarn needle onto tail and sew tail
to the behind.

Legs (make 2):

With color B -
6 sc into m/r (see note) - place marker in last stitch and move with each round so as not to
lose count - DO NOT JOIN
2 sc into each stitch (12)
(1 sc in first stitch, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (18)
(1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (24)
1 sc in each stitch around for 4 rows (24)
(sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 stitches) 4 times, 1 sc in next 8 stitches (20)
1 sc in each stitch around for 5 rows (20)
TURN (you will start working back and forth in rows to create the heel)
sc2tog, sc 1 in next 8 stitches, sc2tog TURN
sc2tog, sc 1 in next 7 stitches, sc2tog (this will connect the first decrease you made in the
last row and the stitch below it) TURN
sc2tog, sc 1 in next 6 stitches, sc2tog (this will connect the first decrease you made in the
last row and the stitch below it) TURN
sc2tog, sc 1 in next 5 stitches, sc2tog (this will connect the first decrease you made in the
last row and the stitch below it)
DO NOT TURN  (you will return to crocheting in spirals)
sc 1 in next 7 stitches, sc2tog (this will connect the last stitch before the heel ridge and the
first stitch on top of the heel ridge), sc 1 in next 6 stitches (place marker) (14)
1 sc in each stitch around for 1 row (14)
Change to color D -
1 sc in each stitch around for 10 rows (14)
Change to color C -
1 sc in each stitch around for 2 rows (14)
Change to color A -
1 sc in each stitch around for 10 rows (14)
finish off leaving a long yarn tail (about 12 inches). Stuff legs. Thread yarn needle onto yarn
tail and attach legs to bottom of body

Arms (make 2):

With color B -
6 sc into m/r (see note) - place marker in last stitch and move with each round so as not to
lose count - DO NOT JOIN
2 sc into each stitch (12)
(1 sc in first stitch, 2 sc into next stitch) repeat around (18)
1 sc in each stitch around for 4 rows (18)
(1 sc in first 1 stitches, sc2tog) repeat around (12)
1 sc in each stitch around for 1 row (12)
Change to color D -
1 sc in each stitch around for 6 rows (12)
Change to color A -
1 sc in each stitch around for 6 rows (12)
Change to color B -
1 sc in each stitch around for 2 rows (12)
Change to color C -
1 sc in each stitch around for 5 rows (12)
finish off leaving a long yarn tail (about 12 inches). Stuff arms. Thread yarn needle onto yarn
tail and attach arms to the side of the body

Sew on buttons for eyes, nose and belly button. Stitch on upside down "Y" for mouth.



Buddy Bears make great friends. Mine are currently hanging out in the craft room.



Try mixing up all sorts of colors.



The orange one was made with 100% cotton and is a little rougher than the others but could certainly take a bit more of a beating. :) I need to give him a face! You can see here how the worsted weight yarn gives you a bigger bear.


* Buddy Bears are my personal pattern. Please feel free to use this pattern to make fun friends of your own but please give me credit for the pattern! Thanks!

Rosey Posey Scarf Pattern and Give Away!

I'm over here patting my self on the back. Finally this year I have FINISHED some hand made gifts for the holidays. Every year I start with great intentions and can usually only manage to finish a hat for my sister and even then I'm working on it on Christmas Eve. But this year, I have a big pile of warm yarny goodness to bestow on my family and friends.

As I mentioned last post, I was inspired by this scarf made by Diane. So I decided to try to make my own in a similar pattern. When I told Diane that I totally copied her she was so nice and happy that I could manage to write a pattern! Ah shucks, thanks! It's a very simple pattern and I hope some of you will give this scarf a try. It really is super cute.

Rosey Posey Scarf



This is another stash buster project and can be adapted for use with many types of yarn though I recommend something soft with a slight sheen. You can also adapt the length and the width to suit you or the recipient. For the red Posey Scarf I used 2 skeins of TLC Cotton Plus, for the pink I used 1 skein of Caron Simply Soft and for the blue (pictured at the bottom) I am using Bernat Cashmere Blends and I think it will take 3 skeins to complete.

Supplies

2 to 3 skeins of worsted weight yarn
Size H hook (or size that suits your yarn, make a double crochet swatch to see what you like!)


Abbreviations

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet


Chain to desired length - start making chains and determine the length of your scarf by wrapping the chain length around your neck. You can make it as long or as short as you like.

dc in 4th chain from hook and every chain until the end, turn

ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc to end, turn

Here is where you can customize the width. The red scarf only has 2 rows of double crochet on each side of the chain. With the scalloped edging it measures about 5 inches wide. I designed this one for a young girl and didn't want it to be too wide. The pink scarf has 3 rows of double crochet on each side of the chain and measures about 7 inches wide with the scalloped edging. You can make as many rows of double crochet as you like, just be sure to put the same amount on rows on the other side of the chain to match.

Once you have determined your width:

ch 3, 4 dc in first dc, skip one dc, sc in next dc, skip one dc *5 dc in next dc, skip one dc, sc in next dc, skip 1 dc* repeat from * to * until last dc, 5 dc in last dc, fasten off and weave in end.

Attach yarn to first chain on OPPOSITE side of where you started your first row of double crochet (you'll now be working down the other side and making a mirror image of your completed side. Questions? Leave a comment!)

ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc to end, turn

Add as many double crochet rows as you did on the opposite side

ch 3, 4 dc in first dc, skip one dc, sc in next dc, skip one dc *5 dc in next dc, skip one dc, sc in next dc, skip 1 dc* repeat from * to * until last dc, 5 dc in last dc, fasten off and weave in end.



See how easy? Now to give it as a gift, roll it up and tie a ribbon around it with a gift tag. This pattern would work well with Bernat Satin which is only $3 a skein at most craft stores. What a nice gift for $6!

Here is my blue scarf in progress:



It will have 3 rows of double crochet on each side but for the middle row I did crossed double crochet to give it a more lacey look. Wanna try? A tutorial can be found here.



And now for the give away . . . see that nifty Knitpickers Yarn holder I'm using to tote around my in-progress posey scarf? Want one? Leave a comment and next Monday I'll pick a winner! It's a good size and has a hook in case you want to clip it to your knitting utility belt. ;) Oh and Diane, I have one for you, too, for letting me be a copy cat. Email me your address!

Oh and if any one makes a scarf, let me know!

xoxo
rr

Hats Off to Crochet!

Finally here is the Oh So Chic Crocheted Hat pattern. I'm sure there are others out there on net that are similar but I am happy with this one.

Simple Crocheted Beret

**This is a great stash buster project! You will need to modify the pattern slightly to fit the yarn and needle size that you choose. DON'T WORRY, it's easy to do and I'll help you along. Remember that you want your crocheted "fabric" to be tight and thick to keep your head cozy and warm!**

For basic crochet instructions go HERE.

For more information on increasing stitches go HERE. The hats are made by increasing a flat circle and then crocheting in a spiral.



For blue beret I used two strands of Bernat Satin held together and a size H hook. You could substitute any two worsted weight yarns for this pattern. Perhaps two strands of Lion Brand Homespun for a nubbly beret? Or two strands of soft wool for extra warmth. By doubling up the yarn you get a nice heavy warm hat. You could certainly use one strand of bulky yarn or even one strand of a lighter yarn though your hat will be more floppy and you'll need extra increase rows to get it to size. :)

For the brown and gold beret I used one strand of Bernat Satin and one strand of Paton's Brilliant. If you use a second yarn that is say, sport weight, you will need to add increase rounds to make the crown of your hat large enough.

Supplies:

2 skeins Bernat Satin or other worsted weight yarn
Size H crochet hook
1 stitch marker (the kind that can open and close, a safety pin will also work)

Abreviations:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet (go HERE for instructions.)

With both strands held together:

Ch 4, slip stitch in first ch to make a ring, ch 1

8 hdc in ring, slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

2 hdc in each hdc around (16 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc) repeat until end (24 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (32 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (40 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (48 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in next 5 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (56 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1

(1 hdc in next 6 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (64 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, DO NOT CHAIN ONE IF THIS IS YOUR LAST ROUND!

**at this point you want to put your flat circle on the crown of your head and pull it towards your ears. It should come about an inch from the top of your ears. If it's a little closer to your ears, that's okay! Your hat will be more roomy. But if it's farther from the tops of your ears you want to add more increase rounds so it will be large enough. You would continue to increase by 8. Just look at the last line of the pattern above and add one to the "hdc in next x amount hdc" each additional row. Make sense? If not, leave me a comment!**

PLACE STITCH MARKER IN LAST HDC YOU MADE

**Now you will start doing spiral rounds with no slip stitches or chains at the end. This creates the body of your hat!**

1 hdc in each hdc around including the one with the stitch marker. Replace marker in last stitch each round to keep your place.

**continue stitching around until body of hat measures about 2 1/2 inches (you can alter this as well to make a larger, deeper hat). You'll notice now that your piece is bowl shaped. You can try it on occasionally to see if it's deep enough to go over your ears.**

DECREASE ROWS

BASIC HDC DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS (how to hdc next two hdcs together):

"Work a hdc in the next stitch without completing the very last step (keep all three loops on hook) , then hdc in the next stitch without completing the last step. You should have 5 loops on the hook then yarn over and draw through all the loops. Decrease made." borrowed from this site.

If you have followed this pattern exactly then your first decrease row will be as follows:

(1 hdc in next 6 hdc, hdc next two hdcs together) repeat until end (56 hdc) and replace marker

**if you added rows you would put your number in the row above, for example, if your last row for the crown (flat circle) was: (1 hdc in next 8 hdc, 2 in next hdc) repeat until end (80 hdc), slip stitch in first hdc, ch 1 then your first decrease row would be: (1 hdc in next 8 hdc, hdc next two hdcs together) repeat until end (72 hdc) and replace marker and so on.**

(1 hdc in next 5 hdc, hdc next two hdcs together) repeat until end (48 hdc) and replace marker

**at this point, when you have 48 hdc, you want to try your hat on again. It should be tighter to your ears. If not, do another decrease row in pattern.**

1 hdc in each stitch around until end (48 hdc) and replace marker

**you will now switch to single crochet to make the band**

1 sc in each stitch around until end (48 sc) and replace marker

Repeat last row 4 times and finish off and weave in ends. Voila!



Want to make a . . .

MATCHING SCARF

This scarf pattern is fun and easy. I made matching scarves for both the blue and the brown berets. For the blue one I used two strands of Bernat Satin held together and for the brown one I used two strands of Bernat Satin and one strand of Paton's Brilliant held together.

For two worsted weight strand scarves try a size I or J needle. Go bigger for a scarf made with three strands. To test it, make about 10 chains, turn and make HDCs in each chain and then repeat to get a feel for the weight of your scarf.

Now the fun part:

Chain as many as you want. I would say to about somewhere between 180 and 200 chains. Then put your chain around your neck as if it were a scarf (don't forget to wrap it!) to determine your final length. My scarves reach the middle of the torso with one wrap around the neck.

Once you have your base chain:

TURN and HDC in the second chain from hook and in all remaining chains, Chain 1 at end of row and turn

Next row:

HDC in the BACK LOOPS ONLY of each stitch. Instructions here. **this is what gives your scarf a ribbed look and makes it extra soft and pliable**

Continue until scarf is desired width. You can go skinny or extra wide. My scarves are about 6 inches wide.

This pattern would be good for men's scarves, too. Choose some manly colors and make it striped or just make it black. They like boring.

Easy right? I already started a third set in another color of Bernat Satin and that gold Paton's Brilliant:



If anyone makes a hat or scarf from my patterns, please let me know! I'd like to know if you think there should be changes or if there are mistakes. I made each piece a few times to make sure I got the pattern right but you never know!

And one the needles now . . .




Husband Hats! These are knit and quite wooly. I have a few more to make for the other husbands in our family. :)

So a lot of hat making going on here, huh? It will be nice to have some hand made gifts. Now if only I could sew some things! Anyone have any suggestions for some easy sewing gift projects for me? Think small and not too difficult. LOL

Coming soon . . . updates to te Goodness Shop! I'll have vintage seam binding, trim, game cards and lots of aprons! Oh and some photos of my fantastic flea market finds of the last few weekends. Fall is certainly the time to go treasure hunting!


Happy Fall,
Rebecca

Happy 300

Thank you to everyone who said such lovely things about my issues with THAT PLACE and THOSE PEOPLE. I am taking all of your advice and not letting it get to me and in fact, I'm over it. I've decided not to waste one more ounce of energy on it. :) So thank you ALL for making me feel much much better. :) And as for a blogging break . . . I'd miss you guys too much!

So this is my 300th post. Wow. That's a lot for me! I'll be having the traditional give away but I'm not ready yet so stay tuned for that in the next few weeks. I may wait until after my vacation.

I do have something for you crocheters out there. A pattern! It's a simple pattern and I'm sure it's been done before but since I wrote it down as I went along I figured why not share?

Crocheted Matroshka Doll




Materials

2 skeins of Lily Cotton in 2 coordinating colors
Size F or G hook (you should make a single crochet swatch to see if your stitches are tight enough to not let the stuffing show through with the larger needle. If not, use the smaller one.)
stitch marker
Felt scraps
Needle and coordinating thread or floss
stuffing
ribbon

Abbrieviations

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
w/ss = with slip stitch
sc2TOG = single crochet two stitches together
DNJ = Do Not Join
(# sc) = number of single crochet stitches you should have at the end of the round

IN COLOR NUMBER ONE (RED)

Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join w/ss, ch 1

2 sc in each sc around, join w/ss, ch 1 (10 sc)

(1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (15 sc)

(1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (20 sc)

(1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (25 sc)

(1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (30 sc)

(1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (35 sc)

(1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (40 sc)

1 sc in BACK LOOPS of each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (40 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (40 sc)

Repeat last row 3 more times (40 sc)

(1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (45 sc)

(1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (50 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (50 sc)

Repeat last row 2 more times (50 sc)

(1 sc in next 8 sc, sc2TOG) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (45 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (45 sc)

Repeat last row 1 more times (45 sc)

(1 sc in next 7 sc, sc2TOG) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (40 sc)

(1 sc in next 6 sc, sc2TOG) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (35 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (35 sc)

(1 sc in next 5 sc, sc2TOG) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (30 sc)

CHANGE TO COLOR NUMBER 2 (PINK)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (30 sc)

***you want to begin stuffing your doll as you go from now on***

(1 sc in next 4 sc, sc2TOG) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (25 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (25 sc)

Repeat last row 3 more times (25 sc)

(1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (30 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, join w/ss, ch 1 (30 sc)

Repeat last row 4 more times (30 sc)

1 sc in each sc to end, DO NOT JOIN OR CH 1 (30 sc)

***you will begin a spiral here so you do not join the rounds or chain one at the ends***

Place stitch marker in last sc

(1 sc in next 4 sc, sc2TOG) to marker DNJ (25 sc)

****remember to keep stuffing!***

(1 sc in next 3 sc, sc2TOG) to marker DNJ (20 sc)

(1 sc in next 2 sc, sc2TOG) to marker DNJ (15 sc)

(1 sc in next 1 sc, sc2TOG) to marker DNJ (10 sc)

(sc2TOG) to marker DNJ (5 sc)

Remove marker and finish off with 6 inch tail. Thread tail on yarn needle and pull through last 5 stitches to close up the head. You should have a bowling pin shaped body.

Using your felt scraps cut out a circle for the face and hair. Trim your hair circle like the one in the picture and stitch together. Use french knots for eyes and small felt circles for cheeks. You can decorate the body however you like. I used a Sizzix die to cut my felt into a flower. Sew a piece of ribbon around the row where you change yarn colors.



You could use any kind of yarn but the Lily cotton is pretty cheap. You could also decorate with beads or buttons but I wanted my dolly to be baby safe. :)

If you make one, please let me know!! Also, if you find any issues with the pattern please tell me. I made a second one following the pattern to check it out and once I decorate her I'll share.

bug hugs
Rebecca

Crocheted Bunny

A few people sounded interested in my "Peep shaped" crocheted bunny so here is the pattern!



Sweet Bunny

Crochet Hook "I"*

Lily Sugar & Cream Cotton - 1 ball of your color choice

ribbon of your color choice

polyfil/stuffing/cotton balls

Make two bunny bodies:

Row 1 - chain (ch) 11

Row 2 - 1 single crochet (sc) in 2nd chain from end and every chain, turn (10 sc)

Row 3 - ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in each sc until last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (12 sc)

Row 4 - repeat row 3 (14 sc)

Row 5 - ch 1, 1 sc in every sc, turn (14 sc)

Rows 6 - 13: Repeat row 5 eight times

Row 14 - ch 1, decrease in first 2 sc: draw up loop through first sc and then draw up second loop through second sc and single crochet together = sc2tog, 1 sc in each sc until last 2 sc, sc2tog in last 2 sc, turn (12 sc)

Rows 15 - 16: repeat row 14 twice (8 sc)

Rows 17 - 18: repeat row 3 twice (12 sc)

Rows 19 - 23: repeat row 5 five times (12 sc)

Rows 24 - 26: repeat row 6 three times (6 sc)

*this completes the body, one ear is made and then the second

Row 27 - ch 1, 1 sc in first 2 sc, turn (2 sc)

Row 28 - ch 1, 2 sc in first 2 sc, turn (4 sc)

Row 29 - ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, turn (4 sc)

Rows 30 - 33: repeat row 29 4 times (4 sc)

Row 34 - ch 1, sc2tog twice, turn (2 sc)

Row 35 - ch 1, sc2tog and finish off

Attach yarn to first sc opposite the first ear with a slip stitch

Repeat Rows 27 - 35 for second ear

Place bunny bodies together and attach yarn to bottom right corner with slip stitch. Chain 1 and single crochet around bunny tucking in yarn ends as you go. Stop on bottom left corner stuff bunny using your crochet hook to push stuffing up into ear. Do not over stuff! The one you see above is a little too chubby and his stuffing is showing through. Continue doing single crochet to close up bottom opening. Finish off and weave in yarn end. Tie ribbon around neck and add button or embroidery eyes if desired. Enjoy!


I hope this pattern makes sense, I've never written one before. If you try it and it doesn't work please let me know! You can always increase or decrease the number of chains at the beginning to change the size of your bunny just remember to resize the ears appropriately.

I tried a crocheted chick last night but let's just say that the dogs are loving their new toy. It looked more like a sponge. :) I am going to try to make felt chicks this weekend or maybe a few of these. Go over to to Bee's blog and see her felt versions here and here! Love them!

Oh and for some fun shopping visit Tender Heart Treasures. They have the cutest shabby chic table items! My favorites are these adorable covered pastry stands:



So cute! They are a bit pricey for me at $60 but they have lots of deals, too, like this biscuit server:



and this three tiered server:



both are only $15! Can you tell I'm in a pastel Spring mood?

Speaking of SPRING, only FOUR MORE DAYS to sign up for the Spring Fling Swap! Go here for details and to send us your info. We'll be posting soon about a spending limit of $20 on the included swap items not including postage. Stay tuned!

Cheers!
Rebecca