Broiderers' Crown Roses

The final motif on the Tudar Embroidery Sampler uses techniques found on an extraordinary extant embroidery studied and reproduced by Cythia. It is perhaps befitting that this exquisite “crown” belongs to the Worshipful Company of Broiderers.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

Cythia gave a lecture on her studies, together with detailed photographs of every aspect of the crown, and a detailed description of her reproduction. In October 2023, I was able to see both the original and the reproduction (and a second extant crown) at the Guildhall Art Gallery’s Treasures of Gold and Silver Wire exhibition.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

Like the Ecclesiastical Flower Motif in the first sample, the elements are stitched onto linen that will be cut out and applied to the velvet background. They are stitched in stages, building up layers of silk and metallic threads. The first layer is a satin stitch foundation using silk.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

Over this flat metallic threads are first attached perpendicular to the foundation and then secured and embellished with silk couching stitches.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

On one of the flowers another layer of metallic threads, this time passing thread, is applied and couched. Variations in the couching patterns and/or using various shades of silk for the couching, creates different effects.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

The elements are finished with an outline of coiled wire.

When finished, each element is glued before being cut out and applied to the background. The stems, including the central vein on the leaves, are stitched directly onto the ground.

© Cynthia Jackson/Carol-Anne Conway

I really enjoyed stitching these flowers and I think they are stunning! I will definitely be revisiting this style of embroidery.

Happy stitching