Double Welt Tutorial - Part 2 (picture heavy)

Continuation:

16. Understitch the lower pocket back 1/16” from the edge of the pocketing, on the pocketing:

17. Stitch down the lower edge of the lower lip to the lining.

FOR LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS:
18. Tape ends of lips

See above

19. Gather the pants pc.

Fold pocket bag right sides together.
Measure 5/8” from the triangle seam, (short end of pocket) mark.

Stitch on that line 3/8” from edge.

Turn bag out. Press bag. Stitch edges 0.25” from the edge.


FOR HEAVIER-WEIGHT FABRICS:
18. Trim ends of lips and tape them.


19. Gather the pants pc.
Fold pocket bag WS together.
Measure 5/8” from the triangle seam, mark.
Serge on that line.

20. Optional: Make a button loop. Baste under upper lip.
Understitch upper lip 1/16” from edge

21. Remove the basting that holds the lips together only after the pant is completely finished.

The END!

Double Welt Tutorial - Part 1 (Picture heavy)

I want to share my favourite technique for making double welt pockets. It is a combination of several techniques that I have come across in the course of my sewing, as well as of my personal experience. I will publish the tutorial in two parts.

First, interface behind pocket. If your fabric is twill or denim – no need tointerface.

Mark fabric for pocket placement:

On me I like pockets that are 4.5”wide. The following pieces are cut as per these measurements.

1. Cut ( for 1 pocket):
From fashion fabric:
1 pc 4 x 7.5” (the 7.5” side on the grain)
1 pc 3 x 7.5” the 3” side on the grain)
Serge the long edges of the pcs.
From pocketing/lining: 1pc 7.5 x 18”
From fus. interfacing: 1pc 2 x 7.5 - to interface 4” pc

Serge long edges of pieces. You should have these:

2. Place lining behind fabric - both pieces RS (right side) up

Baste the lining to the fabric at the future pocket slit

3. Mark the 4” piece: Mark the middle and 2 lines from the middle on each side, 0.25” apart – total of 5 lines.

Can be marked with a fabric marker or baste-marked.
Fold on the 2 outer lines and press them.
If using a fabric marker, make sure to mark the WS of the 4” pc.

4. Position the 4” pc on top of the fashion fabric, RS together.

Baste on the center line.
Mark the short ends of the pocket opening.

5. Stitch on line 2 and 3, making a rectangle.

Verify that the stitch lines are equally apart from each other on both ends.
Reinforce the ends.
Remove basting.

6. On the WS of the lining mark line A as shown: (d= depth of pocket bag)

Measure D from slit = fold line
From fold line measure: D+ ¾” = Line A

7. Align the 3” pc with line A and stitch on line A and the other long line opposed toit.

8. Baste/Mark the fold of pocketing.

9. Slashing.
Mark 3/8” from the short ends of the rectangle.

Slash on line 1 to the 3/8” mark.
Cut from the 3/8” point diagonally to the ends of the seams, in 3-4 steps; to but not thru.

10. Press open SAs of lips

11. Turn 4” pc to the WS of the pants.

12. Press windowpane opening flat.

13. Baste lips on lines 4 &5 together.

Remove basting that marks line 4&5.

14. Press lips open at basting.

15. Turn the triangles to the wrong side and sew them to the lips.

To be continued......