Book review: Birds of Central America: a field guide

Birds of Central America: Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama

Andrew C. Vallely & Dale Dyer
Princeton University Press | 2018
584 pp. | 16 x 23.5 cm | 260 colour plates, 1261 maps
Softback | £40 / $49.50 | ISBN: 9780691138022

Just finished my review of the superb new guide to the birds of Central America, to be published in Neotropical Birding 25...

Thanks to Princeton University Press for providing a review copy.

Published review below, PDF here.

Until recently, field guides for Central America were getting rather long in the tooth, although such masterworks as Howell & Webb (1995), Stiles & Skutch (1989), and Ridgely & Gwynne (1989) never become obsolete. The situation was remedied by the first field guides to Belize (Jones 2003) and Honduras (Gallardo 2014), followed by pocket guides to Costa Rica (Garrigues & Dean 2007), Panama (Angehr & Dean 2010) and Nicaragua (Chavarría-Duriaux et al. 2018; see review, page 88) published by Zona Tropical/ Comstock Publishing Associates (latterly imprints of Cornell University Press), and by the Peterson guide to Northern Central America (Fagan & Komar 2016). The present volume, as the first field guide to the entire Central American avifauna, fills the gaps left by El Salvador and Guatemala and brings the identification literature for the remaining countries up to date.
     A decade in production, the book covers the 1,261 bird species that had been documented in the political region of Central America as of August 2017, an avifauna comparable in size with that of a typical South American country – quite a daunting undertaking. Each of the 1,194 bird species of what the authors define as the ‘core avifauna’ is accorded a main species account, while a further 67 ‘marginal, dubious and hypothetical species’ are relegated to an annotated appendix.
     The region is delimited politically rather than biogeographically, so Vitelline Warbler Setophaga vitellina, a West Indian species found only on the Swan Islands and (extralimitally) on the Cayman Islands, is included. Taxonomy and order broadly follow American Ornithological Society (AOS). There are some logical departures, such as treating Audubon’s Setophaga auduboni and Goldman’s Warblers S. goldmani as separate from Yellow-rumped Warbler S. coronata, or recognising Azuero Parakeet Pyrrhura eisenmanni as distinct from South American Painted Parakeet P. picta.
     The main accounts comprise carefully distilled, concise identification texts and good-sized distribution maps (29 x 36 mm) on the left, with plates on facing spreads. Layout is intuitive, facilitating cross-referencing to the facing page. For species that exhibit geographic variation northern/western subspecies appear on the left-hand side of the plate and eastern/southern subspecies on the right. Plates are the most realistic of any guide to this region, accurately capturing the jizz and plumage of all groups. Birds are usually shown in profile to facilitate comparison, but the illustrations have a pleasing three-dimensional quality and the plates themselves are works of art. The antbirds and furnariids are spectacular. The figures are large and fill each plate, leaving minimal blank plate.
     Critical groups such as shorebirds, tyrant flycatchers and warblers are very nicely illustrated, the latter with both breeding and non-breeding plumages. There should be no need to carry an additional guide to the birds of North America. It is no surprise to learn that both artist and author spent a great deal of time in museum collections, especially the American Museum of Natural History, checking and comparing specimens. The depth of their research is apparent in the quality of the entire book. It may take a while for the eye to adapt to the lack of colour saturation of the plates, particularly for some groups like vireos and thrushes. However, I find the artwork very pleasing.
     In the introduction, the authors set out their reasons for not labelling figures with subspecies names; having examined the full range of geographic variation they felt that a more general description of geographic variation was more appropriate. Given the diligence with which the authors examined museum specimens, I would have liked to have seen scientific names of subspecies specified, which I think would have added clarity to accounts of, for example, Willet Tringa semipalmata, Short-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus griseus, Osprey Pandion haliaetus, Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer and Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripiennis.
     Text focuses squarely on the task of identification. In the interest of brevity, it omits information on aspects of life history except where they aid identification. An introductory line on regional and global status precedes the main identification text, which is followed by a short section covering geographic variation where appropriate. Notes on habits indicate habitat preference, the favoured habitat stratum (canopy vs understorey, etc.), and distinctive features of behaviour. The final section describes vocalisations. The compilation of accurate distribution maps across seven nations must have consumed an inordinate amount of time. I could find no obvious oversights, although unfortunately Turquoise-browed Eumomota superciliosa and Blue-throated Motmot Aspatha gularis maps have been transposed during layout. The authors have wisely treated records on popular online platforms with caution, which will ensure that the distributional data provides a solid baseline for future work.
     Compressing practical information on the identification of 1,200 species into one volume demands a good-sized book. This one is about the size of old guides such as Stiles & Skutch or Ridgely & Gwynne, and weighs 1.3 kg. Yes, for those who want to carry a pocket guide, it is bulky, and also heavy. And it is likely that many visitors will be inclined to pass it over in favour of a lighter guide. In my opinion that would be a mistake. I much prefer to carry a dependable, authoritative reference and will gladly have this in a backpack in preference to a smaller guide. At the very least, for those who will not be taking it in the field, it should be an essential reference for consultation back at camp or at the hotel.
     So, an excellent addition to the literature on the birds of Central America with strong text and plates. This new guide becomes the benchmark for the region and acts as a worthy geographical complement to Howell & Webb (1995), with a slight geographic overlap. The authors deserve the highest praise for a magnificent achievement.

Christopher J. Sharpe 

REFERENCES
Angehr, G. R. & Dean, R. (2010) The birds of Panama. Ithaca, NY: Comstock Publishing Associates.
Chavarría-Duriaux, L., Hille, D. C. & Dean, R. (2018) The birds of Nicaragua: a field guide. Ithaca, NY: Comstock Publishing Associates.
Fagan, J. & Komar, O. (2016) Peterson field guide to birds of northern Central America. New York: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt.
Gallardo, R. J. (2014) Guide to the birds of Honduras. Honduras: Mountain Gem Tours.
Garrigues, R. & Dean, R. (2007) The birds of Costa Rica: a field guide. Miami, FL: Zona Tropical.
Howell, S. N. G. & Webb, S. (1995) A guide to the birds of Mexico and northern Central America. Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.
Jones, H. L. (2003) Birds of Belize. Austin, TX: University of Texas Press.
Ridgely, R. S. R. & Gwynne, J. A. (1989) A guide to the birds of Panama, with Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Honduras. 2nd edition. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
Stiles, F. G. & Skutch, A. F. (1989) A guide to the birds of Costa Rica. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.

Belize 2015: first day at Chan Chich

The next morning my eyes open long before dawn and my ears take in the night-time soundscape of the forest at Chan Chich. This is one of my favourite places in which to wake up: I love to lie in the guides' cabin here and just listen to the forest come alive. Owls often sing in the pre-dawn: Spectacled Pulsatix perspicillata, Mottled Ciccaba virgata, Vermiculated Screech Megascops guatemalae and Central American Pygmy Owls Glaucidium griseiceps have all been heard on past mornings. Sometimes a Pheasant Cuckoo Dromococcyx phasianellus gives its disembodied trill. As the sky lightens Yucatán Black Howler Monkeys Alouatta pigra frequently roar. And just before first light, a Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus will usually sing just two or three times, to be answered by a rival on the other side of the clearing and yet another deeper within the forest. But today I am out in the lodge clearing, coffee in hand, well before first light. It's great to be back!

Our first surprise is a newcomer to the lodge: Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus, a bird of drier, non-forest areas. This is one of suite of dry-country birds that have arrived over the decades since the lodge opened. A lone male apparently arrived towards the end of 2014 and – like most wrens – began singing to establish his territory while he built a series of nests to offer to a potential female. It is new for Chan Chich. Huge Crested Guans Penelope purpurascens sit prominently in the canopy trees, giving spectacular views with the low sun shining through their red dewlaps. WE manage to scope three Brown-hooded Parrots Pyrilia haematotis that fly into the crown of a tall Strangler Fig.

♂ White-whiskered Puffbirds Malacoptila panamensis

The rest of the day is spent exploring the trails and becoming reacquainted with the signature birds of the Chan Chich forests. After breakfast we start at the suspension bridge, with wonderful looks at a pair of perched White Hawks Pseudastur albicollis and an immature Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus. Species from the quintessentially Neotropical families dominate: hummingbirds, Furnariids, woodcreepers, antbirds, tyrant flycatchers. Blue Ground Doves Claravis pretiosa and White-whiskered Puffbirds Malacoptila panamensis are all over the place this year – impossible to miss.

In the Cohune Attalea cohune forest, Chan Chich

Our afternoon consists of a short walk around the Back Plaza where we find a beautiful Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker Celeus castaneus and a singing male White-throated Thrush Turdus assimilis. We reach the Aguada as the light begins to fail. As usual, there are wintering migrants like Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina, Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina and Louisiana Waterthrush Parkesia motacilla as well as a resident male Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda. A Great Tinamou Tinamus major and a Scaly-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus guatemalensis sing, but we are unable to find them in the gathering darkness.

Belize 2015: arriving at Chan Chich

Gallon Jug from the air - looking SSW

Chan Chich is Mayan for “little bird”, and there are lots of them on the property – some 340 species*. Opened in 1988, this private reserve extends over 52,000 ha and adjoins the even larger 93,432 ha Rio Bravo Conservation and Management Area run by Programme for Belize. Most of this area, with the exception of 1,200 ha of cleared agricultural land at Gallon Jug, is cloaked in humid forest of various kinds. Access to the reserve is by air or a private unsurfaced road.

I have been visiting Chan Chich annually since first being shown the place by Rick Taylor in 2001. In the 1990s, Rick had continually regaled me with stories of this mythical place, accounts in which Chan Chich was typically accompanied by words like “the best jungle lodge in the world” or “wait until you see...”. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about Chan Chich is that it has changed so little over the years. Sure enough, the original builders (including Norm, the latter-day barman) have moved on, the incredibly birdy dump has been filled in (for health reasons), the mahogany poles of the suspension bridge have been replaced by steel, a few extra cabins have been built, and our old guides' quarters have been crushed by a tree toppled by Hurricane Richard. But the atmosphere of the pace remains the same, in large part because the staff date from the 1980s and 1990s.

Jaguar Panthera onca

We typically drive in to Chan Chich from Crooked Tree, a trip that takes us about five hours. This may seem like a poor use of birding time, but in fact the drive in has provided some extraordinary sightings over the years, from huge clouds of migrating Barn Swallows Hirundo rustica to Yucatán speciality birds like Black-throated Bobwhite Colinus nigrogularis, and from scarce wintering waterfowl feeding in the flooded rice fields at Blue Creek to a Jaguar Panthera onca flashing across the road. In fact, this is one of the best places in the world to encounter Jaguars. It also gives an idea of the size and relative isolation of this conservation area and provides an opportunity to see the Mexican and Mennonite villages along the way. The sterile Mennonite lands contrast starkly with the lush, vibrant humid forest. Over the years, the forest boundary has been pushed back several kilometres by Mennonite bulldozers to make way for pastureland and soy bean fields.

Adult Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus

This year the drive in is fairly quiet as far as Blue Creek, but as soon as we pass the Rio Bravo barrier the action begins. A toilet break gives as close looks at two White-necked Puffbirds Notharchus hyperrhynchus in a roadside Cecropia. These are often hard to find at Chan Chich but we will end up seeing five by the end of the tour. As we study them, a Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus melanoleucus soars over the road showing its characteristic white leading edge while a Black Hawk-Eagle S. tyrannus sails in the opposite direction. A little further on, Moez spots an adult Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus, an uncommon and thinly-spread winter visitor to these forests.

Continued...


* Steve Smith and I are compiling a checklist of the birds of Chan Chich based on specimens and documented sight records. We currently have verified records for some 340 species.

Belize 2015: Crooked Tree Lagoon

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga

The Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary is a low (3–15 m), flat, seasonally flooded wetland in central Belize. In 2000 it was designated a 6,637 ha Ramsar Site and is now co-managed by the Government of Belize and Belize Audubon Society. No trip to Belize is complete without a boat trip on Crooked Tree Lagoon. The birding varies markedly with water level. In my experience, at this time of year low waters produce better birding, with a good chance of seeing shorebirds, kingfishers and specialities like Jabiru Jabiru mycteria, Sungrebe Heliornis fulica and Agami Heron Agamia agami. High water levels – like those we have today – are typically less productive, but good for migratory wildfowl, especially diving duck. Over the years, the local boatmen-guides Lennie and Michael have become so experienced that even with high water they always have something of interest to show, thus ensuring that every day is a good day for a boat trip.

Roosting Proboscis Bats Rhynchonycteris naso

But before we head out on the boat, we like to explore the adjoining pine savannas in the cool of the morning. Arriving at a clearing at dawn, the first sound we hear belongs to Yucatán Jay Cyanocorax yucatanicus, but these birds seem to have become shy and will not grace us with an appearance. Next we hear the harsh calls of Yucatán Parrot Amazona xantholora and, by manoeuvring a little, we are able to get a wonderful scope view of a bird perched on a pine top just 50 metres away. The rest of the parrots are all White-fronted Amazona albifrons – we were lucky to have the one Yucatán. Before returning to The Bird's Eye View for breakfast, we pick up one or two more widespread dry-country birds.

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius

Before we have even boarded the boat, Moez has picked up a couple of Wilson's Snipe Gallinago delicata drilling into the mud in the marsh next to our lodge. With the boat trip under way, we quickly find many of the lagoon's emblematic species: Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum, Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis, Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga, Gull-billed Gelochelidon nilotica and Caspian Terns Hydroprogne caspia, Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus. There are plenty of Ospreys Pandion haliaetus, all of them wintering birds of the North American breeding subspecies carolinensis, in contrast to those on Ambergris which are largely resident ridgwayi. Then, surprisingly with this level of water, an Agami Heron trying to keep well out of sight along a weed-choked channel. On the large area of open water beyond, we see some 80 Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor and a dozen Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris, birds only seen here occasionally. In Spanish Creek, a roost of Boat-billed Herons Cochlearius cochlearius numbers over 20 birds. We have been on the water for almost three hours, so must get back quickly for lunch and our long drive to Chan Chich. On the way, a distant Sterna tern catches my attention: Forster's Tern S. forsteri! Not common here, it is the only new bird for Belize that I will see during the trip. Michael tells us he has never seen one – can he be right? Since it is flying fast in the direction of the lodge, we speed after it to get a photograph. An exciting end to a really good boat trip. 

Forster's Tern Sterna forsteri

Belize 2015: Caracol & Mountain Pine Ridge

Rediscovered by a mahogany prospector in 1937, Caracol is now known to have been one of the most important Mayan regional political centres during the Classic Period. At its peak it was twice the size of present day Belize City and powerful enough to conquer the much better known site of Tikal in 562 AD. Constructed on the Vaca Plateau, Caracol overlooks the surrounding lowlands and the highest structure – indeed, the highest man made structure in Belize – Caana, affords panoramic views over forested terrain and into Guatemala. Spreading over 200 km², the largely unrestored complex is today covered with secondary forests that provide excellent habitat for birds. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a wealth of typical Central American humid forest birds along with regional specialities like Tody Motmot Hylomanes momotula. Until 2006, this was a reliable site for Keel-billed Motmot Electron carinatum, but the birds appear to have disappeared.

Our Caracol day began when dawn finally caught up with us near the Macal River. Apart from the dozen or so Pauraques Nyctidromus albicollis that we had flushed off the road as we drove over Mountain Pine Ridge in the darkness, our first birds were Ocellated Turkeys Meleagris ocellata, Crested Guans Penelope purpurascens and Great Curassows Crax rubra that we surprised as they strolled along the entrance road. On reaching Caracol, the sounds of dozens of parrots and toucans were amplified by the early morning mist. As usual, we had difficulty eating our picnic breakfast, and by the time we had supped the last coffee we had already found a score of new species. The morning was our usual mix of Mayan archaeology and birding, by the end of which we had obtained definitive views of three species of parrot, seen all four Belizean trogons and sampled a wide a selection of tropical residents and migrants. As often happens at this time of year, the overnight arrival of a minor cold front had depressed activity slightly.

After lunch we made our way back to the Macal River, the only place on our itinerary where one might reasonably hope to see Scarlet Macaw Ara macao and were rewarded with scope views of two pairs. A side trip to the Rio Frio Cave added Green Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius pulchellus and an exceptionally good view of a male Black-throated Shrike-Tanager Lanio aurantius.

Mountain Pine Ridge has a number of special birds. The taxon notius of the Plumbeous Vireo Vireo plumbeus complex is Belize's only endemic. There are outlying populations of north temperate species like Greater Pewee Contopus pertinax, Eastern Bluebird Sialia sialis and Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra, all of which are hard to find. It has traditionally been the easiest place anywhere within its patchy range to find Stygian Owl Asio stygius, and the presence of breeding Orange-breasted Falcon Falco deiroleucus, Montane Solitary Eagle Buteogallus solitarius and Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus melanoleucus has made it an obligatory birding stop. The ecology of the raptors of this area is fully described in the excellent Neotropical Birds of Prey.

Adult King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa

♂ Orange-breasted Falcon Falco deiroleucus, 1000' Falls

Belize 2015: Ambergris Caye

Another spring, another exciting trip to one of my favourite wildlife destinations: Belize. February is the usual slot for my annual birding trip for Tucson-based Borderland Tours. All thoughts of winter, the effects of an overnight bus and two days of travel, the dehumanisation of the absurd Miami Airport “Homeland Security” regime are instantly banished as you board the Tropic Air Caravan flight to San Pedro. And after fifteen minutes over the Caribbean, you are on Ambergris. Even though it has changed beyond recognition in recent years, the island retains the atmosphere of a place to relax. Of course, co-leader Moez and I are not here to relax: we're here to work. Throwing our bags into our rooms, we want to take advantage of the last hour of light by hurrying to the nearest available habitat: the desalination plant. Here we find our first Black Catbird Melanoptila glabrirostris as Mangrove Warblers Setophaga petechia sing their evening melodies. A Clapper Rail Rallus crepitans bellows and a dozen Lesser Nighthawks Chordeiles acutipennis emerge from the mangroves. The birds tell us that we can only be in the Yucatán. 

Mangroves S of San Pedro, with a newly cleared plot.

Next morning we await our pre-dawn taxi to scout potential new birding areas. The dry forest and mangroves have been rapidly cleared south of San Pedro to construct holiday homes, so we are looking for new areas further north. Unusually, our driver does not show up. Still, this is Sunday morning and yesterday night the town celebrated St. Valentine's Day. We take the opportunity to swallow breakfast, then flag down a taxi to “the cut”, where we cross the new Sir Barry Bowen Bridge to the northern part of the island. The habitat is in much better shape here and we quickly find Yucatán endemic Orange Oriole Icterus auratus as well as Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula. As the sun burns hotter, we enquire where to rent some form of transport and some friendly hotel guards offer us their bicycles – the perfect way to bird. As we pedal northwards we hear Yucatán Woodpecker Melanerpes pygmaeus and Yucatán Flycatcher Myiarchus yucatanensis and stop to admire a Yucatán Vireo Vireo magister, dapper Mangrove Warblers and a pair of Black-cowled Orioles Icterus prosthemelas. We have already racked up at east 30 Black Catbirds. Bananaquits Coereba flaveola are typically scarce on our Belize itinerary, but we find nearly a dozen here, all of the distinctive Yucatán island subspecies caboti. We have not found Caribbean Dove Leptotila jamaicensis or Caribbean Elaenia Elaenia martinica, species which have all but disappeared south of San Pedro, but they undoubtedly persist here. On a side road to the west across coastal lagoons the beautifully intact mangroves deserve our attention, but we are out of time. Eight Stilt Sandpipers Calidris himantopus feed with the water up to the top of their legs as an immature Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus cruises past – we had already seen a soaring female. This area looks perfect for White-crowned Pigeon Patagioenas leucocephala, although we are perhaps a little early in the year. It is time to return to the hotel to set up logistics and meet the group.

♂ Mangrove Warbler Setophaga petechia

Next morning we're out at first light and ready to show the group the best of the island: the San Pedro Municipal Dump. We know just what our tour participants want to see. As we walk through the adjoining cemetery, the smouldering refuse and abundance of flies look promising. This is insectivore heaven and soon we have seen dozens of migrant warblers and at least 20 Black Catbirds. A Scissor-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus forficatus is unusual, but the 60 White Ibis Eudocimus albus are staple dump birds, their immaculate white plumage and ink-dipped wing-tips contrasting with their surroundings. A Yucatán Woodpecker announces its presence only a few metres from us, as do Yellow-billed Caciques Amblycercus holosericeus. As we wander back, we have great views of perched male and female Double-toothed Kites Harpagus bidentatus. A lone drake Lesser Scaup Aythya affinis – unusual on the cayes – is the only bird on the water, but a huge American Crocodile Crocodylus acutus has hauled itself out on the sand.

In the afternoon we take a snorkelling trip to the Hol Chan Marine Reserve where we get to swim with Green Moray Eels Gymnothorax funebris, Nurse Sharks Ginglymostoma cirratum and Southern Stingrays Dasyatis americana. We drift over a couple of full-grown Green Turtles Chelonia mydas, close enough to touch as they graze placidly on the seagrass. It can't match the dump for birding, but has its charms.

The next morning we have time to study a couple of Yucatán Vireos before jumping on the flight back to the mainland.

Yucatán Vireo Vireo magister

Human Bot Fly Dermatobia hominis myiasis continued

This year my botfly larvae were not so simple to remove, particularly the one in my ankle, which caused enough swelling that my right foot no longer fit into a shoe. By Friday afternoon, after a failed attempt to expel it, I could no longer feel this larva moving about, and my ankle was becoming more swollen and discoloured. Fortunately, a kind doctor solved the problem by taking me to Norwich A&E today and surgically removing all the larvae. I was surprised to find that they were about half the size of those that I had successfully expelled in previous years, because they caused considerably more discomfort and inconvenience.

One of my 2nd instar Dermatobia hominis larvae. The breathing tube is on the left, mouthparts on the extreme right. Note the concentric rows of backward-pointing, decurved spines, which serve to anchor the larva in place.

Human Bot Fly Dermatobia hominis myiasis

It's been a couple of weeks since I hopped onto the Cessna Caravan at Chan Chich, and there's no doubt that once again I have brought back with me as souvenirs of Belize more than the usual couple of bottles of Marie Sharp's Fiery Hot Habanero Pepper Sauce.

I've picked up Human Bot Flies elsewhere, but Belize is a particularly good place to encounter Dermatobia hominis. Fortunately, I have always had them on my legs where they cause only minor discomfort and are relatively easily extracted: I have heard tales of scalp infestation and can well imagine that this would be a serious inconvenience. Indeed, in rare cases, larvae living in the scalp have burrowed through the soft fontanel and lodged in the brain, killing the host.

Bot flies are native to tropical America where they parasitise mammals such as deer, tapir, pigs, dogs and cattle, as well as Homo sapiens. I am not sure why they should be so common in Belize, since there are far more tapirs and cows in the Venezuelan llanos or the Brazilian Pantanal and I have never picked them up there. The larvae inhabit the subcutaneous layer of their hosts, where they form a pustule within which they feed on tissue fluids. Stiff, black, backward-pointing bristles anchor them in place as they scrape away with a pair of fang-like mandibles at the host tissue, while a breathing tube allows them to take up oxygen through a hole in the skin which opens after a couple of weeks. The larva is well adapted to its task. But the most extraordinary aspect of the bot fly's life cycle is its devious strategy for getting the larva into place. The adults capture a blood-sucking insect, such as a mosquito or deerfly, and deposit their mature eggs on the ventral side – a behaviour known as phoresy. Upon the vector's contact with the mammalian skin, body warmth triggers the eggs to hatch and the newborn larva gains access to the host through the bite wound or a nearby hair follicle. The larvae spend about two months within their host, during which time they pass through several instars before crawling out to pupate in the soil. The University of Florida provides a good introduction to the Human Bot Fly.

What happens if you (or your family members) do not intend to allow the larval bot fly to complete its natural span within your body? Going to a medic in the USA or Europe will almost certainly result in minor surgery – and perhaps counselling for the physician. As the US CDC stipulates, "Fly larvae need to be surgically removed by a medical professional". In fact, there's a much simpler solution: I prefer to sit it out until the larvae become uncomfortable and large enough to physically expel. From about the third instar onwards, mine have tended to move around and rasp away in the early hours, causing pain and lost sleep, so this is the time to get on with the task. The first time I had them, I tried taping bacon over the holes, then ham, then beef, but simply woke up night after night with a curious sort of "breakfast in bed". Much better is to apply a thick layer of petroleum jelly to the hole and wait a few hours. Starved of air, the larva will work their way out of their breathing hole and – if you are quick – you can deftly apply pressure to the surrounding skin and force the intruder out. Since by this time they are flask shaped, with the bulk of the body in the depths of the pustule, they typically pop out with some force – not unlike a miniature champagne cork!

To be continued... here

The Curious Naturalist's library: Belize

Later tonight I'll be setting off to lead a two-week birding tour to Belize. Having prepared for some 25 trips to the country, and done a little research there myself, I have consulted scores of books and papers on the subject, and have often been asked to recommend books that will help the curious naturalist get the most out of a trip. With time pressing, I have updated my old Amazon list below. Those marked with an asterisk are the ones I will actually be taking with me.

A Neotropical Companion (2^nd edition) by John Kricher

The best introduction to the natural history of the New World tropics. This is a book to take on your trip, to consult and to read while you travel. Hugely informative and encyclopaedic

Central America: A Natural and Cultural History edited by Anthony G. Coates

A series of essays that range from the geology of the region to the faunal interchange, to indigenous peoples and independence from the Spanish – a good primer.

Traveller's Wildlife Guide: Belize by Les Beletsky

A general overview of Belize for the naturalist. No, it does not include everything, but it can be used to identify a proportion of what you see and, at the very least, help point you in the right direction. I don't use this general guide myself, but it is popular amongst tour participants and is probably the best option for those with a casual interest in nature.

*Birds of Belize by H. Lee Jones & Dana Gardner

If birds are your interest, then this is the national field guide, covering all 574 species recorded in Belize at the time of publication. Unusually for a Neotropical bird guide, it also depicts boreal migrants such as shorebirds and wood warblers. National maps are handy – just be aware that on every trip you will see a handful of species that are well out of range.

*A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Northern Central America by Steve N. G. Howell & Sophie Webb

But if you take your birding seriously, you will want Howell and Webb too. One of the best field guides to any avifauna, it will come in handy for future trips to neighbouring countries. Not the lightest of field guides and now nearly twenty years old, but still worth its weight in gold. A masterpiece!

The Sibley Field Guide to Birds of Eastern North America by David Allen Sibley

And to really nail the birds, you should carry a North American field guide. I find Sibley's Eastern guide fits the bill since it's light and portable and you are unlikely to see any western migrants here.

*A Field Guide to the Mammals of Central America and Southeast Mexico (2^nd edition) by Fiona A. Reid

For mammals, Fiona Reid's guide is definitive. As with Howell & Webb, it will come in handy for those planning to travel to the rest Central America.

*A Field Guide to the Amphibians and Reptiles of the Maya World: The Lowlands of Mexico, Northern Guatemala and Belize by Julian C. Lee

For herps, Julian Lee's guide to the amphibians and reptiles of the Yucatan is the best portable option.

The Amphibians and Reptiles of the Yucatan Peninsula by Julian C. Lee

If you want to know more about herps then this weighty tome by the same author is essential reading, though you will probably not be packing it for the trip. Besides, it is in the libraries of many of the wildlife lodges.

Amphibians and Reptiles of Northern Guatemala, the Yucatan and Belize by Jonathan A. Campbell

And if you really want to be comprehensive, Campbell fills a similar niche, for home use.

Reef Fish Identification by Paul Humann & Ned Deloach

The world's second largest barrier reef sits off the coast of Belize, so you should at least take a snorkelling trip to Hol Chan or Shark-Ray Alley. If you just want to identify fish, this is the standard guide.

The Reef Set: Reef Creature, Reef Coral Identification & Reef Fish (3 volume boxed set) by Paul Humann & Ned Deloach

If you are planning on really exploring the Belizean reefs, by diving, then you might as well splash for the three volume set that includes the fish guide...

Coral Reef Fishes: Indo-Pacific and Caribbean by Ewald Lieske

This is the volume I use for fish. Light and portable, it won't break the bank and lets me identify most of what I see. Plus I won't need to buy a new guide when I go to the Indo-Pacific...

*A Swift Guide to the Butterflies of Mexico and Central America by Jeffrey Glassberg

A wonderful book that is compact enough to carry in the field. The annotated photographs will enable identification to genus and often species. A great way to while away the hot midday hours when birds tend to be less active.

The Orchids of Guatemala and Belize by Oakes Ames & Donoval Stewart Correll

The botany of Belize is not well covered. This is a 60+ year old guide using line drawings. Taxonomy is, of course, well out of date. However, orchid lovers will want a copy.

Native Orchids of Belize by Ian McLeish

This larger 1995 book has both line drawings and photographs. Again, probably one for the specialist only.

Animals and Plants of the Ancient Maya by Victoria Schlesinger

If you are at all interested in the cultural significance and uses of nature – ethnobiology – then this book is a must.

The Maya (8^th edition) By Michael D. Coe

A readable introduction to the ancient Maya, and as much as most people will want in order to grasp some idea of the meaning of Belize's Mayan sites.

The Ancient Maya (6^th edition) by Robert J. Sharer

An authoritative account of the ancient Maya. At 900+ pages, this is not one for the backpack but, read before and after the trip, it will enhance your understanding of of Belize's history and culture.

Belize 1:250,000 Travel Map by International Travel Maps

Don't get lost! Having helped supply their cartographer, Kevin Healey, with information on Latin America in the early 1990s, in my experience, the Canadian company ITMB always seems to publish the most helpful and accurate travel maps. No exception here: the Belize map integrates relief, roads and parks in a clear and practical format. Have a great trip!

Getting ready for... Belize

Birding Caracol in February 2002

Tomorrow night I set off on a fortnight's trip to Belize, leading my annual tour for Tucson-based Borderland Tours. I first visited the country in March 1997, to work with the Belize Forest Department in Belmopan as a consultant for the World Conservation Monitoring Centre on a Darwin Initiative project on Central American Plant Genetic Resources. In 1998 and 1999 I got several further opportunities to return, this time to carry out rapid biodiversity inventories of the nascent Golden Stream Corridor Preserve, in Toledo District.

Coming down Caracol's Caana, the highest man-made structure in Belize, with Joe Thompson, January 2006 (Photo: Pepe Clavijo Michelangeli)

Shortly afterwards, I was invited to co-lead my first bird tour to Belize by Rick Taylor and since then have returned annually, usually for Borderland Tours, but sometimes leading small private groups. These groups have included world-listers eager to mop up a few elusive species (although Belize has no avian endemics - yet), as well as those who simply want to enjoy a pleasant birding and cultural experience at some of the best managed ecolodges in tropical America.

After twenty-odd trips to Belize, I always get excited about preparing for a new trip. Although the country is small and conditions for birders are comfortable, even luxurious, there is always the chance of something special: a new country record, a Jaguar, or simply an encounter with the country's speciality birds such as Orange-breasted Falcon, Stygian Owl or Tody Motmot. If nothing else, it is a chance to spend some time with old friends at lodges like Hidden Valley Inn and Chan Chich. Time to pack! 

At Chan Chich with the Heseltines, February 2003

Book review: Birds of Belize by Lee Jones

Birds of Belize

H. Lee Jones
Illustrated by Dana Gardner 

University of Texas Press | 2004
440 pp. | 15.5 x 22.5 cm | 56 colour plates, 28 figures, 234 distribution maps

Paperback | £29.99 / $34.95 | 978-0-292-70164-9

Due to its small size, proximity to the USA, English speaking tradition, tropical biodiversity and fairly well conserved natural environment, Belize is growing to be one of the most popular destinations for birders. However, until recently the country lacked a national field guide. This book therefore fills a major gap in the bird identification literature.

The book covers all 574 species recorded in Belize at the time of publication. After brief but informative introductory chapters, a group of 56 colour plates is dedicated to every species. As a refreshing change, all migrants are illustrated, reducing the need to carry an additional field guide to North American birds. A brief text accompanies each plate on the facing page, while the full species descriptions are found separately in the main body of text. Range maps for 234 species are found at the back of the book.

Although this book will not replace the immensely authoritative Howell & Webb's A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Northern Central America for Belize, it is certainly a much more portable guide to carry into the field. A must for birders planning a trip to this friendly patch of Central America.