Showing posts with label Tailoring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tailoring. Show all posts

Friday, March 18, 2011

A. Sauvage's Black Volta

Cast your minds back to the busy month of May last year, where I zigzagged my way across the capital for various press days and viewings to help see what AW10 would bring, one of the real highlights and favourites was A. Sauvage. I've kept a close eye on the development of the brand ever since. For those of you with short memories, the label is the brainchild of Adrien Victor Sauvage who whilst working as a creative realised that the stylish demands of his clients were not being met so set about meeting them with his own designs. Simply put, the label works on the deceptively simple principle of perfecting cut and concentrating on fit.

As his SS11 collection begins to land in Harrods and Matches, I'm pleased to share the look book shots for Black Volta. Once more, to make matters even easier for the every man he has practically created an fool proof guide of creating ensembles within his look book. Of course there are a myriad of ways each piece can be worn but for those less confident, he has created a look book of colour co-ordinated assembly line-esque, everyday dressing...

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Now, one of the methods Sauvage has used to tell the creative narrative of the label has been through his intimate portrait photography. His exploration in the field of portraiture began with the Captain and Native series which really captured the imagination of the blogosphere. I personally loved the questions that the photographic project asked about sartorial individualism. What does a suit mean to you? How do you wear a suit? It managed to document the intriguing relationship between A. Sauvage's tailoring and interesting names from the art, literary and film worlds. To celebrate the launch of his SS11 collection, Black Volta, Sauvage presents a new series which will soon be available to view on his journal. To whet your appetite I can offer the following image of Anthony Bonsu.

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Black and white photograph by Adrien Sauvage.
Anthony Bonsu wears 000-9 from 000-1- 000-11 Kente D.B Tuxedo Jacket and white tuxedo shirt
All images courtesy of A. Sauvage.

After an eleven year absence Sauvage revisits Ghana, capturing the inspiration for Black Volta in the process. Here his portrait photography of family, friends and the surrounding neighbourhood, sees natives dressed in the collection. As in previous series, the designer and photographer invites subjects to wear garments from his collection and encourages them to express who they are whilst wearing a suit with no directorial interference. Having established the loose parameters of the experience it is left up to each subject to decide what to wear, diverse as they are, from the collection. By revisiting his heritage a new story begins yet the collection builds on the same principle of perfecting cut, concentrating on fit and adding pieces to the range as season and need demands. Look out for more from the series over on his absorbing journal.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Braille Studio Visit

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In just over twelve months Braille have carved a covetable reputation for creating reimagined wardrobe staples. In all three of their collections to date the design duo have showcased a wonderful sense of texture, as pieces revealed a heady mix of luxurious fabrics. The fabric combinations in the pairs outerwear are always of particular note. Textural highlights in their recent AW11 collection, Our Damn Hands, include a waxed belted silk poncho, a textured wool pocket overcoat and a suede reversible corded bomber to name but a few.

Having spoken to the pair two weeks ago in a post that unveiled their look book, I could not resist an invitation to take a closer look at the designs. Here we explore their East London based studio and cop a feel of a few SS11 and AW11 season highlights...

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The title, Our Damn Hands is a direct reference to the fact that this collection was completed up to the sampling stage with minimal assistance from interns or pattern cutters, right here in the studio.

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A few of the patterns

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The remains of the AW11 mood board, soon to be replaced with the inspirations of SS11

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One of the most memorable piece from SS11, there is just so much texture in this zipped top.

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Waxed cotton and wool.

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Luminescent tweeds gave visibility to the night explorer for SS11

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Fabric cut offs transformed.

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The contrast blazer updated for AW11.

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The fastenings are a particular highlight of AW11.

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A simple blazer is transformed with the use of these clips.

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The Duffle Coat has received a great deal of press and buyer attention. When you pick it up you can sense from its weight that it is going to keep you nice and warm, the pair used leather binding as a bridge between the softness of the wool and the hardness of the fireman's clips.

In all of Braille's garments there is always an intriguing balance between the strong and the delicate, something inherently 'masculine' yet genteel at the same. Having forged such a strong design signature in three short seasons, something tells me that 2011 is going to be a big year for the pair. Come SS12 the label will be in a good position to begin selling to the international boutiques that they've had their eyes on since the beginning.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Details: Contrast Blazer

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One half of design duo Braille, Benjamin Vorono, wearing the label's much coveted contrast blazer.

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