Haider at Hostem

As pointed out in the recent men's issue of Interview, Haider Ackermann is having a moment. Since debuting his first collection in 2002, the design talent has boasted a small but devoted following but within the last few seasons, the larger fashion crowd has finally begun to catch on. The presentation of his womenswear pre-collection and S/S 11 menswear debut was undoubtedly a moment and I consider myself so fortunate to have witnessed it. It was a visual feast packed full of surprises. Memories of it still excite me today. Ackermann hosted a lavish evening of fashion, performance and celebration in the deserted Palazzo Corsini on the edge of the Arno river in Florence. In a wonderfully unique combination of the baroque surroundings and the true bohemian spirit of Haider, guests enjoyed a champagne reception and exotic fruits, followed by a piano concert and then fashion parade in a chandelier lit courtyard.

Entitled �A Carte Blanche named "Opium", the spectacular showcase was a romantic homage to a travelling woman and her man alone in the deserted Palazzo, channeling a gypsy spirit of North Africa. The menswear itself was a complete surprise. With a womenswear line known for sensual, attenuated androgyny we expected more of the same for his debut menswear offering. Instead we were treated to an array of embroidered textiles and textures reminiscent of a grungier Dries Van Noten. With so much of fashion shifting towards a form of minimalism, Haider Ackermann's embroidery-encrusted jackets and patched jacquards were a pleasant surprise. Ackermann used fabrics and textiles that I wanted to reach out, manhandle and steal. Despite being universally applauded, in December the in demand designer announced that he would not produce another collection until he felt suitably compelled.'Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame' he uttered and now...we wait longingly for the next instalment. However, as we (im)patiently wait we can, thanks to a small selection of key stores, buy in to Haider Ackerman's male wardrobe. Earlier this week I popped in to Hostem as this enclave on Shoreditch�s Redchurch Street now boasts a well selected rail of the designer's debut. It was great to take a closer look at the collection to remind myself that I for one would like to join Ackermann's nomadic tribe...

Just a few of the pieces that caught my wanting eye inside Hostem.

Having been fortunate enough to watch the debut presentation in person, it was an absolute pleasure to inspect the finished designs on the shop floor.

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Sruli Recht AW11 When Gravity Fails

The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjav�k, the studio instantly rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one �non-product� every month� from umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. Now, I have to confess that somehow the label eluded me but not so the blogging oracle that is Susie. Back in July 2007 she wrote a piece about her love of his footwear designs and has kept an eye on the studio's output ever since. So, when we saw his name on the Reykjavik Fashion Festival and discovered that he would be presenting his debut menswear collection her enthusiasm was infectious and my expectations were high. On the opening night of the festival, Recht managed to blow me away. As a live drummer provided a percussion pulse, Recht's men paraded a collection of carefully crafted draped pieces that echoed the rawness of the Icelandic landscape. 

In the space of a few minutes my blogging highlight of my Icelandic trip was revealed. Despite enthusiastically snapping away from my prime vantage point, due to the height of the catwalk I am not entirely happy with my show photography but fortunately I can share Marin� Thorlacius' stunning look book imagery with you. The collection consists of a total look - from coats, jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, all complimented by shoes, boots, bags, gloves and silver jewellery. There are fifty five styles, with approximately one hundred and thirty material variations...

Photographer - Marin� Thorlacius 

Model - Emil ��r Gu�mundsson

Stylist - Arash Arfazadeh

Recht and his team have spent the last year taming these wild and fantastic natural Icelandic materials for a total look collection that will seduce the international market. The design talent worked very closely with Atlantic Leather, a tannery in the north of Iceland run by the native Icelanders, working with an array of raw skins to make new materials, designing new leathers and experimenting with treatments and finishes. The entire collection showcases leathers from horse, hunted wild reindeer, birds, fish and lamb. However, the two showpieces are particularly special...

 

Show Piece One - �Icarus, post-crash�
Twenty one Svartfugl [blackbirds] on a hunted wild reindeer base. The garment literally designed itself after the hunters placed catch on the table, all that was left was for them to be sewn together. Body to body to back to wing they were attached the wild reindeer base.

Show Piece Two - �Born out of this�
Twenty seven still born lambs, three regular lambs, military deadstock lining. Pieced together, these almost once vessels, together now one, and draped as a single square, and a sleeve, and a pleated set/raglan hybrid, with darted shaping.

Similarly, the collection uses Icelandic wool and Recht has worked with a local knit producer to create their own knit constructions. In fact, about ninety eight per cent of the collection is made from Icelandic materials, and material that Recht has in some way developed in the studio. The other two per cent is the jersey that has to be imported because it just isn�t made in Iceland.

As with everything Recht has created before, the collection is completely intuitive and free whilst still being very dimensional and formed. His debut menswear offering is entirely draped, mostly from single pieces. There was absolutely no design sketching, instead the designer worked the fabric on half sized mannequins and 3D sketched fabrics direct on to form. The result is a collection that strikes the covetable balance between construction and freedom. During my time in Reykjav�k I was fortunate enough to meet the designer at his studio and retail space and I will happily relay what I learnt over the coming days but until then, I hope you enjoy the look book.

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J. Lindeberg AW11 From the Fjords to the Mountains

The AW11 season of press day pin ball has well and truly arrived and I've ricocheted from one to another to another whilst uncovering the gems of the season. One of the first to open its showroom doors was J. Lindeberg and after admiring the Jorgen Ringstrand shot look book for well over a month now, I was finally treated to a chance to inspect From the Fjords to the Mountains in person.

Once more, under Pierangelo D'Agostini fine creative stewardship, J. Lindeberg continues its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a particularly Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, D'Agostin's third collection is packed with pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and on Monday I got my chance.

For inspiration, D'Agostin explored the dramatic coastlines of Scandinavia and through the dark water of the deep fjords and the soaring glacial mountains. You don't have to rack up the air miles of Tyler Brule to realise that traveling is part of daily life. Either in cities or crossing continents, garments are required to be versatile, providing multipurpose solutions and to perform for almost any occasion. Here, afforded by a delicate balance of modern technology and true tradition items are evolved and updated. Neoprene mesh layers, flat construction and Japanese fabrics introduce sportswear performance technologies and protection whilst iconic maritime classics such as the duffle coat and the pea coat are reworked to incorporate a three layer waterproof backing and detachable internal jacket. At every turn, tradition and technology are wonderfully fused.

This season the label has continued to grow its offering of accessories. Highlights include traditional mountain hiking boots in a Nordic construction which have been upgraded with technical neoprene. Sailor�s triangular neck ties and patterned cashmere-blend scarves capture the feeling of a man at sea...

Dandy styling with the triangular neck ties, Alp Boot Alpino Leather, Stivaletto Grained Leather and Wingtip Grained Leather

The collection showcases my own personal favourite hues for the colder months. The colour palette references nature in the depth of winter. The dark blue water of the fjords, the deep evergreen of the forest and shades of light grey skies are contrasted against the vibrant yellows, reds and acid greens of lichen covered rocks. A stunning palette whatever the season but particularly apt for Autumn. The best way to illustrate the palette while showing you a few key looks is to offer up a few selections from the look book itself in addition to the shots I took myself...

�The collection is designed for now, moving into the future. Genuine craftsmanship combined with modern technology. Uniting yesterday, today and tomorrow�

 Pierangelo D'Agostini

Read more »

J. Lindeberg AW11 From the Fjords to the Mountains

The AW11 season of press day pin ball has well and truly arrived and I've ricocheted from one to another to another whilst uncovering the gems of the season. One of the first to open its showroom doors was J. Lindeberg and after admiring the Jorgen Ringstrand shot look book for well over a month now, I was finally treated to a chance to inspect From the Fjords to the Mountains in person.

Once more, under Pierangelo D'Agostini fine creative stewardship, J. Lindeberg continues its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a particularly Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, D'Agostin's third collection is packed with pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and on Monday I got my chance.

For inspiration, D'Agostin explored the dramatic coastlines of Scandinavia and through the dark water of the deep fjords and the soaring glacial mountains. You don't have to rack up the air miles of Tyler Brule to realise that traveling is part of daily life. Either in cities or crossing continents, garments are required to be versatile, providing multipurpose solutions and to perform for almost any occasion. Here, afforded by a delicate balance of modern technology and true tradition items are evolved and updated. Neoprene mesh layers, flat construction and Japanese fabrics introduce sportswear performance technologies and protection whilst iconic maritime classics such as the duffle coat and the pea coat are reworked to incorporate a three layer waterproof backing and detachable internal jacket. At every turn, tradition and technology are wonderfully fused.

This season the label has continued to grow its offering of accessories. Highlights include traditional mountain hiking boots in a Nordic construction which have been upgraded with technical neoprene. Sailor�s triangular neck ties and patterned cashmere-blend scarves capture the feeling of a man at sea...

Dandy styling with the triangular neck ties, Alp Boot Alpino Leather, Stivaletto Grained Leather and Wingtip Grained Leather

The collection showcases my own personal favourite hues for the colder months. The colour palette references nature in the depth of winter. The dark blue water of the fjords, the deep evergreen of the forest and shades of light grey skies are contrasted against the vibrant yellows, reds and acid greens of lichen covered rocks. A stunning palette whatever the season but particularly apt for Autumn. The best way to illustrate the palette while showing you a few key looks is to offer up a few selections from the look book itself in addition to the shots I took myself...

�The collection is designed for now, moving into the future. Genuine craftsmanship combined with modern technology. Uniting yesterday, today and tomorrow�

 Pierangelo D'Agostini

Read more »