Red Hat

The past few weeks my knitting has reflected the reality of the season. It will be snowing soon. There have been years when we've had snow by the middle of October.

This is the first hat I've ever knit that actually fits and/or doesn't have a weird looking knob on the top.

I pulled out a skein of red wool and using a 99 cent discount store hat as a template I whipped up a nice warm very basic red hat to wear on dog walks.

In order not to lose my notes on how I knit this hat, I'm going to post my method at the end of this entry. It's not intended to be a formal pattern. Just a reminder.

Anyway, I'm sure all the other knitters in the world know how to knit a simple hat that fits.


Red Hat
Worsted weight wool. #6 needles.

Cast on 90 stitches and join in round.
k1,p1 ribbing for 5 inches.
Stockinette for 4 inches.

k8, k2tog for a round.
Knit a round.
k7, k2tog for a round.
Knit a round.
Etc until after the k3, k2tog round.
Skip the knit round.
k2, k2tog for a round.
Turn stitches to inside of hat and bind off 27 stitches with 3 needle bind off.

Now, instead of buying a 99 cent hat at the discount store, I can spend $5 on a skein of wool and knit myself a hat. Makes sense to me.

Little Shell Rib Socks Finished

This was an easy, quick, fun stitch pattern with lovely results. I'll definitely use it again for myself and for gift socks.


A close up of the Lilac Swirl colorway.


And, a close up of the Little Shell Rib stitch pattern.

The original pattern is written for 56 stitches with a multiple of seven stitches. I knit on 64 stitches with a multiple of eight stitches by introducing a purl column between the two knit columns. This modification turns it into a ribbing pattern for snugger, better fit.


Pattern: Little Shell Socks modified and renamed Little Shell Rib Socks.

Stitch Pattern from Pattern
Multiple of 7 stitches, 4 rows

• Row 1: k7
  
• Row 2: k7
  
• Row 3: k1, YO, p1, p3tog, p1, YO, k1
  
• Row 4: k7

Stitch Pattern for Little Shell Rib Socks
Multiple of 8 stitches, 4 rows

• Row 1: k7, p1
  
• Row 2: k7, p1
  
• Row 3: k1, YO, p1, p3tog, p1, YO, k1, p1
  
• Row 4: k7, p1

Yarn: Stalwart Sock from Slackford Studio. 75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon 4 Ply Fingering Weight Sock Yarn.

Color: Lilac Swirl.

Needles: Options 2.50mm circulars.

Gauge: 8 stitches/inch, 10 rows/inch in stockinette.

Cozy in Cables Big Kid Sweater Pattern

Sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up to the underarm. The upper front and upper back are knit back and forth and then joined at the shoulders with three needle bind off. The sleeves are picked up at the armhole edge and knit down in the round.

No seams. No sewing required.

The 32 inch size is given first with numbers for 36 inches and 40 inches in parens.

The back and front are the same.

Yarn: 600 (750, 900) yards of bulky weight wool. Sweater in picture was knit with Lamb's Pride Bulky.

Needles: Size 10.5, 24 or 32 inch circular plus your preferred needles for knitting sleeves in the round: 10.5 double points, second 10.5 circular (for 2 circular method), or long 10.5 circular for Magic Loop.

Other needs:
cable needle
2 stitch markers
A second circular of same or smaller size OR a large stitch holder
tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge in Stockinette: 3 stitches per inch. 4.5 rows per inch. (Approximate gauge is OK for CIC. It will fit some child who needs it.)

Finished Size: 32 (36, 40) inches at chest, 21 (23, 25) inches in length.

Abbreviations:
k - knit
p - purl
C4F - cable 4 to the front. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in front of work (toward you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
C4B - cable 4 to the back. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in back of work (away from you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
k2tog - knit two stitches together (right slanting decrease)
ssk - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, return slipped stitches to left needle and knit them together (left slanting decrease)
p2tog - purl two stitches together.
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
*k1, p1* - repeat knit 1, purl 1 the number of times corresponding to the size you are knitting.

Body of sweater from ribbing to underarm
Cast on 98 (110, 122) stitches, loosely.

Join and place marker (left side marker).

k1, p1 ribbing for 49 (55, 61) stitches.
Place marker. (right side marker)

Continue k1, p1 ribbing in the round for 2.5 inches.
End at the left side marker.

Circular Cozy In Cables Pattern:
Round 1: k10 (12,14) , p2, k4, p2, *k1, p1* 6 (7,8) times, k1, p2, k4, p2, k10 (12,14) across front. Repeat across back.
Round 2: k10 (12,14), p2, C4B, p2, k1, *k1, p1* 5 (6,7) times, k2, p2, C4F, p2, k10 (12,14) across front. Repeat across back.
Round 3: k10 (12,14), p2, k4, p2, *k1, p1* 6 (7,8) times, k1, p2, k4, p2, k10 (12,14) across front. Repeat across back.
Round 4: k10 (12,14), p2, k4, p2, k1, *k1, p1* 5 (6,7) times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k10 (12,14) across front. Repeat across back.

Work Circular Cozy In Cables pattern for approximately 10.5 (11.5, 12.5) inches, ending at the left side marker after Row 3. (Total length, 13 (14, 15) inches.)

Knit Row 4 of Circular Cozy in Cables Pattern across 49 (55, 61) stitches of sweater front.

Put the 49 (55, 61) front stitches on holder or slip onto a second circular needle, removing markers.

Upper Back
Continue around working Row 4 of Circular Cozy in Cables Pattern across 49 (55, 61) stitches of sweater back.

Turn work.

Flat Cozy in Cables Pattern:
Row 1: (WS) p10 (12,14), k2, p4, k2, p1, *k1, p1* 6 (7,8) times, k2, p4, k2, p10 (12,14)
Row 2: (RS) k10 (12,14), p2, C4B, p2, k1, *k1, p1* 5 (6,7) times, k2, p2, C4F, p2, k10 (12,14)
Row 3: (WS) p10 (12,14), k2, p4, k2, p1, *k1, p1* 6 (7,8) times, k2, p4, k2, p10 (12,14)
Row 4: (RS) k10 (12,14), p2, k4, p2, k1, *k1, p1* 5 (6,7) times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k10 (12,14)

Knit Flat Cozy in Cables Pattern until measurement from underarm to top measures 6.5 (7.5, 8.5) inches, ending after Row 3.

Back Neck Ribbing
Row 1: (RS) k10 (12, 14), *k1, p1* 14 (15, 16) times, k11 (13, 15)
Row 2: (WS) p10 (12, 14), *p1, k1* 14 (15, 16) times, p11 (13, 15)

Work neck ribbing until total sleeve opening measures 8 (9, 10) inches, ending after Row 2.

Leave stitches on needle or place on holder if you need the needle to work the front.
Do not bind off.
Cut yarn, leaving 8 feet of yarn attached to sweater for later use in binding off.

Upper Front and Front Neck Ribbing
Join yarn to start Row 1 of Flat Cozy in Cables Pattern, a WS row.
Work same as upper back and back neck ribbing.

Shoulder Seam and Bindoff
With right sides together, bind off 10 (12, 14) stitches on the first shoulder using 8 foot yarn tail and 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY in ribbing across the outside (away from you) neck edge, stopping with 11 (13, 15) stitches remaining on needle.

Turn sweater and bind off 10 (12, 14) stitches on the second shoulder using 8 foot yarn tail and 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY in ribbing across the remaining neck edge and weave yarn into first shoulder bind off.

Turn sweater again and finish binding off the first edge weaving yarn into second shoulder bind off.

Make sure the neck opening will pull over your head before you cut and weave in the ends.

Sleeves
Starting at underarm, pick up 26 (30, 34) stitches before the shoulder seam and 26 (30, 34) stitches after the shoulder seam.

The four stitches centered on the shoulder seam will be the cable and need to be on the same needle. (The entire cable pattern with the purl stitch border is 8 stitches, but only the actual cable stitches need to be together on the same needle.)

Place first marker 4 stitches before the shoulder seam to mark the start of the cable. Place an underarm marker at the center underarm.

The Sleeve Rounds start at the underarm marker.

Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases
Round 1: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 2: knit to first/cable marker, p2, C4F, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 3: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 4: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker

Sleeve Rounds With Decreases
Round 1: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 2: knit to first/cable marker, p2, C4F, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 3: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 4: k1, k2tog, knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to three stitches before underarm marker, ssk, k1

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases two times.

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds With Decreases until 32 (34, 36) stitches remain.

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases until total sleeve measures 15 (16, 17) inches, ending after Round 2.

Decrease 6 stitches around sleeve as follows:
k5 (6, 7), k2tog, k5, p2tog, k, k2tog, k, p2tog, k4, k2tog, k4 (5, 6) k2tog. 26 (28, 30) stitches remain.

Note: The p2tog, k, k2tog, k, p2tog in the decrease row should fall in the 8 stitches of the cable pattern.

Sleeve Ribbing
Sizes 32 and 40: k1, p1 for 8 rounds.
Size 36: p1, k1 for 8 rounds
Bind off in ribbing.

Knit second sleeve same as first, substituting C4B for C4F.

Wash the sweater in mild soap (I use baby shampoo).
Lay out flat to block and dry.

Copyright Marguerite Byrne, 2007.
Send comments and corrections to knittingviolet@gmail.com

Cozy In Cables Toddler Sweater Pattern

Sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up. The sleeves are picked up at the armhole edge and knit down in the round.

No seams. No sewing required.

The back and front are the same.

Yarn: 250 yards of bulky weight wool. Sweater in picture was knit with Reynold's Lopi.

Needles: Size 10.5, 24 inch circular plus your preferred needles for knitting sleeves in the round: 10.5 double points, second 10.5 circular (for 2 circular method), or long 10.5 circular for Magic Loop.

Other needs:
cable needle
2 stitch markers
A second circular of same or smaller size OR a large stitch holder
tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: 3 stitches per inch. 4.5 rows per inch. (Approximate gauge is OK for CIC. It will fit some child who needs it.)

Finished Size: Toddler size 2. 24 inches at chest, 13 to 14 inches in length.

Abbreviations:
k - knit
p - purl
C4F - cable 4 to the front. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in front of work (toward you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
C4B - cable 4 to the back. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in back of work (away from you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
k2tog - knit two stitches together (right slanting decrease)
ssk - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, return slipped stitches to left needle and knit them together (left slanting decrease)
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

Body of sweater from ribbing to underarm
Cast on 74 stitches, loosely.

Join and place marker (left side marker).

k1, p1 ribbing for 37 stitches.
Place marker. (right side marker)

Continue k1, p1 ribbing in the round for 2 inches.
End at the left side marker.

Circular Cozy In Cables Pattern:
Round 1: (k6, p2, k4, p2, (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice, once across front and once across back.
Round 2: (k6, p2, C4B, p2, k1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p2, C4F, p2, k6) twice.
Round 3: (k6, p2, k4, p2, (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice.
Round 4: (k6, p2, k4, p2, k1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice.

Work Circular Cozy In Cables pattern for approximately 5 inches, ending at the left side marker after Row 3. (Total length, ~7 inches.)

Knit Row 4 of Circular Cozy in Cables Pattern across 37 stitches of sweater front.

Put the 37 front stitches on holder or slip onto a second circular needle, removing markers.

Upper Back
Continue around working Row 4 of Circular Cozy in Cables Pattern across 37 stitches of sweater back.

Turn work.

Flat Cozy in Cables Pattern:
Row 1: (WS) p6, k2, p4, k2, p1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k2, p4, k2, p6
Row 2: (RS) k6, p2, C4B, p2, k1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p2, C4F, p2, k6
Row 3: (WS) p6, k2, p4, k2, p1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k2, p4, k2, p6
Row 4: (RS) k6, p2, k4, p2, k1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p2, k4, p2, k6

Knit Flat Cozy in Cables Pattern until measurement from underarm to top measures 6 inches, ending after Row 3.

Neck Ribbing
Row 1: (RS) k6, (k1, p1) 12 times, k7
Row 2: (WS) p6, (p1, k1) 12 times, p7

Work a total of 4 rows of neck ribbing ending after Row 2.

Leave stitches on needle or place on holder if you need the needle to work the front.
Do not bind off.
Cut yarn, leaving 6 feet of yarn attached to sweater for later use in binding off.

Upper Front and Neck Ribbing
Join yarn to start a WS row.
Work same as upper back and neck ribbing.

Shoulder Seam and Bindoff
With right sides together, bind off 6 stitches on the first shoulder using 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY across the outside (away from you) neck edge, stopping with 7 stitches remaining on needle.

Turn vest and bind off 6 stitches on the second shoulder using 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY across the remaining neck edge and weave yarn into first shoulder bind off.

Turn vest again and finish binding off the first edge weaving yarn into second shoulder bind off.

Make sure the neck opening will pull over your head before you cut and weave in the ends.

Sleeves
Starting at underarm, pick up 24 stitches before the shoulder seam and 24 stitches after the shoulder seam.

The four stitches centered on the shoulder seam will be the cable and need to be on the same needle. (The entire cable pattern with the purl stitch border is 8 stitches, but only the actual cables stitches need to be together on the same needle.)

Place first marker 4 stitches before the shoulder seam to mark the start of the cable. Place an underarm marker at the center underarm.

The Sleeve Rounds start at the underarm marker.


Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases
Round 1: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 2: knit to first/cable marker, p2, C4F, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 3: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 4: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker

Sleeve Rounds With Decreases
Round 1: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 2: k1, k2tog, knit to first/cable marker, p2, C4F, p2, knit to three stitches before underarm marker, ssk, k1
Round 3: knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to underarm marker
Round 4: k1, k2tog, knit to first/cable marker, p2, k4, p2, knit to three stitches before underarm marker, ssk, k1

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases one time.

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds With Decreases until 20 stitches remain.

Knit the 4 rounds of Sleeve Rounds Without Decreases until sleeve measures 8 inches, ending after Round 3.

Sleeve Ribbing
k1, p1 for 4 rounds.
Bind off.

Knit second sleeve same as first, substituting C4B for C4F.

Wash the sweater in mild soap (I use baby shampoo).
Lay out flat to block and dry.

Copyright Marguerite Byrne, 2006.
Send comments and corrections to knittingviolet@gmail.com

Shetland Lace Rib Sock Pattern

Size: Women’s medium

Yarn: 100g sock/fingering weight.

Needles: 2-24” circulars US 1, 2.5mm.

Note: You can easily switch to double points or Magic Loop if desired. This pattern is written with the instep stitches on one needle and the heel side stitches on the second needle. To knit on double points, simply substitute two double points for the instep and/or two double points for the heel.

Gauge: 8 stitches/inch, 10 rows/inch in stockinette stitch

The socks in the picture are knit with Opal UNI-Solid.

This stitch pattern shows best with a solid or almost solid yarn.


Note on Sizing
Because of the openness of the lace, the 60 stitches around results in approximately the same size sock as a standard 64 stitch sock. If you're concerned about the sock being too tight, you may want to do the top ribbing on #2 needles.


Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
m1 = make a new stitch by lifting loop between stitches with left needle and knitting into back of loop
slip = slip purlwise unless pattern specifies knitwise
ssk = slip knitwise, slip knitwise, knit two slipped stitches together
k2tog = knit two stitches together
p2tog - purl two stitches together
p2sso = pass two slipped stitches over the knit stitch

Shetland Lace Rib Stitch Pattern close up
(multiple of 10 stitches)
Round 1: k9,p
Round 2: k2,k2tog,yo,k,yo,ssk,k2,p
Round 3: k9,p
Round 4: k,k2tog,yo,k3,yo,ssk,k,p
Round 5: k9,p
Round 6: k,yo,ssk,yo,slip knitwise,slip knitwise,k,p2sso,yo,k2tog,yo,k,p
Round 7: k9,p
Round 8: k3,yo,slip knitwise,slip knitwise,k,p2sso,yo,k3,p

Cuff:
Cast on 60 stitches.
Split stitches between two circular needles, 30 stitches per needle.
Join.
Join is the beginning of a round and the left side of sock.

Ribbing:
k1,p1 ribbing for 1.5 inches.

Knit Shetland Lace Rib Stitch until cuff measures desired length (usually 7-8 inches), ending after Round 1.

With the heel side facing you, move the left purl stitch onto the instep needle.
You now have 31 stitches on the instep needle and 29 stitches on the heel needle.

Heel:
Set up Row: (slip 1, knit 1) 7 times, slip 1, m1, (slip 1, Knit 1) 7 times. 30 stitches on needle. Turn.

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn.
Row 2: (slip 1, knit 1) 15 times. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 17 times. (18 slip rows)

Turn Heel:
Row 1: slip 1, p 16, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 2: slip 1, k5, ssk, k. Turn.
Row 3: slip 1, p6, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 4: slip 1, k7, ssk, k. Turn.
Row 5: slip 1, p8, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 6: slip 1, k9, ssk, k. Turn.
Row 7: slip 1, p10, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 8: slip 1, k11, ssk, k. Turn.
Row 9: slip 1, p12, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 10: slip 1, k13, ssk, k. Turn.
Row 11: slip 1, p14, p2tog, p. Turn.
Row 12: slip 1, k15, ssk, k.

18 stitches left on needle.

Pick up Gusset Stitches:
Pick up 18 stitches along right edge of heel.

Knit across instep using Row 2 of Shetland Lace Rib after reading note below.

Note: There is now an extra purl stitch at the beginning of the instep stitchs. Purl it on each round before knitting the Shetland Lace Stitch pattern.

Pick up 18 stitches along left edge of heel.

Knit a round, ending at center back of heel.

Gusset Decreases:
For gusset decreases, round starts at center of heel needle.

Round 1: knit to last 3 stitches before instep, k2tog, k1, knit Shetland Lace Rib across instep, k, ssk, knit to center of heel needle.
Round 2: knit to instep needle, knit Shetland Lace Rib across instep, knit to center of heel needle.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on heel needle.

Continue knitting around keeping the 31 instep stitches in the Instep Rib Pattern.

Toe Decreases:
Start on instep needle 2 inches before desired length of sock.

Round 1: (k, ssk, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k) twice, once on instep needle, once on sole needle.
Round 2: knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain on instep needle and 15 stitches remain on sole needle.

Repeat round 1 until 7 stitches remain on each needle.
Kitchener toe and weave in ends.

Copyright Marguerite Byrne, 2006. To be used for private, non-profit use only.
Send comments and corrections to knittingviolet@gmail.com

Cozy In Cables Toddler Vest Pattern

This pattern was written with warmth, durability, and ease of knitting as the three main considerations. Hopefully you will also find it to be cute and fun to knit.

Vest is knit in the round from the bottom up.

No seams. No sewing required.

The back and front are the same.

Yarn: 150 yards of bulky weight wool. Vest in picture was knit with Reynold's Lopi.

Needles: Size 10.5, 24 inch circular.

Other needs:
cable needle
2 stitch markers
A second circular of same or smaller size OR a large stitch holder
tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: 3 stitches per inch. 4 rows per inch. (Approximate gauge is OK for CIC. It will fit some child who needs it.)

Finished Size: Toddler size 2 - 4. 24 to 26 inches at chest, 13 to 14 inches in length.

Abbreviations:
k - knit
p - purl
C4F - cable 4 to the front. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in front of work (toward you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
C4B - cable 4 to the back. Put 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold in back of work (away from you). Knit the next two stitches, then knit the two stitches off the cable needle.
k2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

Body of vest from ribbing to underarm
Cast on 74 stitches, loosely.

Join and place marker (left side marker).

k1, p1 ribbing for 37 stitches.
Place marker. (right side marker)

Continue k1, p1 ribbing in the round for 2 inches.
End at the left side marker.

Work circular Cozy In Cables pattern for approximately 4 inches, ending at the left side marker after Row 4. (Total length, ~6 inches.)

Circular Cozy In Cables Pattern:
Round 1: (k6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice, once across front and once across back.
Round 2: (k6, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k6) twice.
Round 3: (k6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice.
Round 4: (k6, p2, k4, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, k4, p2, k6) twice.

Work the following rounds to provide the under arm garter stitch.

Round 1 Front: k6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p6
Round 1 Back: p6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p6
Round 2 Front: p6, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k6
Round 2 Back: k6, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k6
Round 3 Front: k6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p6
Round 3 Back: p6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p6
Round 4 Front: p6, p2, k4, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, k4, p2, k6
Round 4 Back: k6, p2, k4, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, k4, p2, k6

Work the following round to create the arm openings, purling the stitches that are being bound off.

k6, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p3, bind off 6, p3, p2, k4, p2, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p2, k4, p2, p3, bind off 6

Markers are no longer needed.
Put back flap on holder or slip onto a second circular needle.

Front Flap
Work across front flap: p2, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k3
Note: The row actually starts with a p3, but the first stitch has already been purled as part of the preceding bind off.

Work the following flap rows until flap measures 4 to 5 inches, ending after Row 2.

Flap Rows:
WS Row 1: k5, p4, k2, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k2, p4, k5
RS Row 2: k3, p2, k4, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, k4, p2, k3
WS Row 3: k5, p4, k2, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k2, p4, k5
RS Row 4: k3, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k3

Note: On the front flap only, the last three stitches of Row 1 of the flap rows will result in a double purl row on the garter stitch arm edge. While not perfection, this is the best of several alternatives and is not noticeable in the finished vest.

Garter Neck Edge
WS Row 1: k6, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k6
Note: The k2tog keeps the top of the cable from spreading.
Rows 2 - 5: knit
Leave stitches on needle. Do not bind off.
Cut yarn, leaving 5 feet of yarn attached to vest for later use in binding off.

Back Flap
Join yarn to work right side row.
RS Row 1: k3, p2, C4B, p2, k, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, k, p2, C4F, p2, k3
Work the flap rows until flap measures 4 to 5 inches, ending after Row 2.

Work Back Garter Neck Edge same as Front Garter Neck Edge.

Shoulder Seam and Bindoff
With wrong sides together, bind off 4 stitches on the first shoulder using 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY across the neck edge closest to you, stopping with 5 stitches remaining on needle.

Turn vest and bind off 4 stitches on the second shoulder using 3 needle bind off.
Without breaking yarn, bind off VERY LOOSELY across the neck edge closest to you and weave yarn into first shoulder bind off.

Turn vest again and finish binding off the first edge weaving yarn into second shoulder bind off.

Make sure the neck opening will pull over your head before you cut and weave in the ends.

Wash the vest in mild soap (I use baby shampoo) and cool water.
Lay out flat to block and dry.

Copyright Marguerite Byrne, 2005.
Send comments and corrections to knittingviolet@gmail.com

Mini Basketweave Toddler Sock Pattern

Worsted weight socks knit on two circulars.

Size: Small toddler.

Yarn: Approximately 100 yards of worsted weight.
Must be at least 70% wool for CIC.
Socks in picture were knit with 1.5 ounces of Cascade 220.

Needles: 2 - #5 circulars (or size needed to get a firm, solid fabric).any length 16” or longer. (I prefer 24” length.)
3 same size double points for the gusset area. (Optional)

Gauge: 5.5 stitches per inch.

Note: Gauge is not all important for CIC socks. They will fit some child no matter what size they turn out to be. It is important to have a firm, solid fabric as the socks are worn inside, usually without shoes.

Appreviations:
k knit
p purl
ssk slip, slip, knit
p2tog purl two together

Mini Basketweave Stitch Pattern - multiple of 4.

Row 1: knit
Row 2: p2, k2
Row 3: p2, k2
Row 4: knit
Row 5: k2, p2
Row 6: k2, p2

Cuff and Leg
Cast on 28 stitches using the long tail caston.
Join stitches, placing 14 stitches on each needle with the caston tail on the right side of the first row.
First 14 stitches are the heel side, second 14 stitches are the instep side.

k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows.
Work basketweave pattern for 22 rows, ending after Row 4.

Heel Flap
Row 1 (Right side): Slip 1, knit 1 alternately across the 14 stitches.
Row 2, (Wrong side): Slip 1, purl across.

Repeat the 2 heel flap rows 7 times.
Do another Row 1.

Turn Heel
Slip 1, p7, p2tog, p. Turn.
Slip 1, k3, ssk, k. Turn.
Slip 1, p4, p2tog, p. Turn.
slip 1, k5, ssk, k. Turn.
Slip 1, p6, p2tog. Turn.
Slip 1, k6, ssk.

8 stitches remain on needle.

Gusset Shaping
Note: Once the gusset stitches are picked up, there will be 26 stitches on the heel side needle. This works, as the number of stitches decreases quickly. A second option is to split the 26 stitches between two double points until the heel side is reduced to 14 stitches.

Pick up 9 stitches along edge of heel.
Knit instep, keeping in pattern stitch.
(If you followed the pattern exactly, you will be on Row 5 of the basketweave stitch pattern.)
Pick up 9 stitches along other edge of heel.
Knit 4 stitches from heel, place center heel marker.
Knit 1 round from center heel to center heel keeping instep in pattern stitch.

Gusset Decreases
Knit to last three stitches before instep, k2tog,k.
Maintain basketweave stitch pattern on instep needle.
On first three stitches after instep k, ssk, knit rest of stitches back to center heel.
Knit 1 round from center heel to center heel keeping instep in pattern stitch.

Repeat these two rounds until heel side of sock is reduced to 14 stitches.

Foot
Knit 28 rows (counting from the gusset pick up) keeping instep in basketweave stitch.
Start toe shaping after basketweave stitch pattern Row 3 or Row 6.

Toe Shaping
On heel side of sock k, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k.
On instep side of sock k, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k.
Knit a round without decreasing.

Repeat these two rows until 8 stitches remain on each needle.
Do the decrease row 2 more times until 4 stitches remain on each needle.
Close the toe with kitchener or three needle bind off.
Weave in ends and admire your work.

Wash socks in mild soap and lay out flat to dry. I use baby shampoo.

Copyright Marguerite Byrne, 2004.
Send comments and corrections to knittingviolet@gmail.com

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Mini-Basketweave Toddler Sock Pattern



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