Showing posts with label fabrics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fabrics. Show all posts

Monday, January 20, 2025

Hirn - Höfer - Hodgkin - Hickel

Jean-Georges Hirn
Bunch of Grapes
1815
oil on copper
private collection

Jean-Georges Hirn
Bouquet of Roses
1820
oil on canvas
Musée Unterlinden, Colmar

Jean-Georges Hirn
Bouquet on Marble Ledge
1822
oil on canvas
Musée Unterlinden, Colmar

Jean-Georges Hirn
Bouquet with Books and Spectacles
ca. 1820-25
oil on canvas
Musée Unterlinden, Colmar

Candida Höfer
Deichmanske Bibliothek, Oslo II
2000
C-print
Guggenheim Museum, New York

Candida Höfer
Deutsche Oper am Rhein, Düsseldorf
2012
C-print
Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Candida Höfer
Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires
ca. 2006
C-print
NSU Art Museum, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Candida Höfer
WiSo-Bibliothek, Köln I
1989
C-print
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Howard Hodgkin
After Degas
1990
hand-colored etching
Art Institute of Chicago

Howard Hodgkin
David's Pool at Night
1985
hand-colored etching and aquatint
Art Institute of Chicago

Howard Hodgkin
Large Flower
1985
screenprinted cotton
(furnishing fabric, produced by Designers Guild)
Art Institute of Chicago

Howard Hodgkin
Moonlight: Diptych
1980
hand-colored lithograph
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Anton Hickel
Portrait of politician Charles James Fox
1794
oil on canvas
National Portrait Gallery, London

Anton Hickel
Portrait of Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor
ca. 1788-91
oil on canvas
private collection

Anton Hickel
Portrait of Marie Thérèse Louise of Savoy, Princesse de Lamballe
1788
oil on canvas
Liechtenstein Museum, Vienna

Anton Hickel
Engagement by Candlelight
ca. 1790-95
oil on canvas
Belvedere Museum, Vienna

The New Life

I slept the sleep of the just,
later the sleep of the unborn
who come into the world
guilty of many crimes.  
And what these crimes are
nobody knows at the beginning.
Only after many years does one know.
Only after long life is one prepared
to read the equation.

I begin now to perceive
the nature of my soul, the soul
I inhabit as punishment.
Inflexible, even in hunger.

I have been in my other lives
too hasty, too eager,
my haste a source of pain in the world.
Swaggering as a tyrant swaggers;
for all my amorousness,
cold at heart, in the manner of the superficial.

I slept the sleep of the just;
I lived the life of a criminal
slowly repaying an impossible debt.
And I died having answered for
one species of ruthlessness.

– Louise Glück (1999)

Thursday, January 9, 2025

Variations

Anonymous French Maklers
Bodice
ca. 1790
block-printed cotton lined with linen
Art Museums of Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Anonymous Indian Makers
Shawl
ca. 1800-1850
wool embroidered with silk
Art Institute of Chicago

Anonymous English Makers
Cap
ca. 1575-1625
linen embroidered with silk
Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge

Anonymous English Makers
Cape
(refashioned paisley shawl imported from India)
ca. 1860-70
wool with silk lining
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous Indian Makers
Shawl
ca. 1825-50
wool embroidered with silk
Art Institute of Chicago

Mikhail Larionov for Ballets-Russes
Stage Costume for Buffoon's Wife
ca. 1921
silk and cotton
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Léon Bakst for Ballets-Russes
Stage Costume for Nymph
ca. 1912
silk chiffon
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Caroline Reboux
Hat
ca. 1927
wool felt
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Hat
1962
silk satin, ribbon and ostrich feathers
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Elsa Schiaparelli
Hat
1948
wool felt, feathers and mink
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous Japanese Makers
Kimono
ca. 1920
tie-dyed silk
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous Japanese Makers
Kimono
ca. 1930
stencil-printed silk
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous Japanese Makers
Ainu Robe
19th century
cotton, with appliqué and embroidery
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

John Tunnard for Ascher (London)
Scarf
1947
printed silk twill
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Anonymous Chinese Makerse
Court Robe
(component piece, uncut)
19th century
embroidered silk
Asian Art Museum, San Francisco

Rachel MacHenry (Toronto)
Man's Vest
ca. 1988-92
wool knit
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

The Rock

Insignia
of the earth's
terrible recesses, spirit
of darkness, of 
the criminal mind, I feel
certain there is within you
something human, to be
approached in speech. How else
did you approach Eve
with your addictive 
information? I have paid
bitterly for her
lapse, therefore
attend to me. Tell me
how you live in hell,
what is required in hell, 
for I would send
my beloved there. Not
of course forever:
I may want him
back sometime, not
permanently harmed but
severely chastened,
as he has not been, here
on the surface. What
shall I give him for
protection, what
shield that will not
wholly screen him? You must be
his guide and master: help him
shed his skin
as you do, though in this case
we want him
older underneath, maybe
a little mousy. I feel confident
you understand these
subtleties – you seem
so interested, you do not
slide back under your rock! Oh
I am sure we are somehow related
even if you are not
human; perhaps I have
the soul of a reptile after all.

– Louise Glück (1996)

Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Refocillations

Anonymous American Makers
Garter Belt
ca. 1900
embroidered silk satin, lace, elastic and metal
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous French Makers
Tippet and Muff
ca. 1935
dyed monkey-fur lined with silk
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Iceberg (Milan)
Pullover Sweater
ca. 1995
wool-angora and rayon, with wool appliqués
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous American Makers
Cloak
ca. 1775-90
wool
Art Museums of Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Anonymous English Makers
Evening Gown
ca. 1795-1800
cotton muslin with gilt embroidery
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous English Makers
Evening Gown
ca. 1817
wool and silk gauze, embroidered
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous English Makers
Afternoon Ensemble
(mantle and skirt)
ca. 1880-90
 silk
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Anonymous English Makers
Bustle-Crinoline
ca. 1870-75
wool twill with metal hoops in channels
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous Japanese Makers
Summer Kimono
ca. 1900-1915
resist-dyed silk
Art Institute of Chicago

Hubert de Givenchy
Cocktail Coat
ca. 1962
silk satin
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

Anonymous Australian Makers
Bodice
ca. 1905
cotton and silk
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Anonymous English Makers
Bodice
16th century
linen embroidered with silk
Art Institute of Chicago

Anonymous French Makers
Fabric Panel
ca. 1780-90
block-printed and hand-painted cotton
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Jean Patou
Evening Gown
ca. 1923
silk
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Anonymous American Makers
Summer Day Dress
ca. 1868-72
roller-printed cotton
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto
 
Russell & Allen (London)
Evening Cape
ca. 1887
silk faille
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Telemachus' Dilemma

I can never decide
what to write on
my parents' tomb. I know
what he wants: he wants
beloved, which is
certainly to the point, particularly
if we count all
the women. But
that leaves my mother
out in the cold. She tells me
this doesn't matter to her
in the least; she prefers
to be represented by
her own achievement. It seems
tactless to remind them
that one does not
honor the dead by perpetuating
their vanities, their 
projections of themselves.
My own taste dictates
accuracy without
garrulousness; they are
my parents, consequently
I see them together,
sometimes inclining to
husband and wife, other times 
to opposing forces

– Louise Glück (1996)

Tuesday, January 7, 2025

Dressing Well

Anonymous Canadian Makers
Boy's Day Dress
1862
roller-printed cotton
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous Indian Makers
Child's Tunic
ca. 1960
embroidered cotton and silk
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Anonymous American Makers
Child's Coat
ca. 1850
block-printed and roller-printed cotton
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous Australian Makers
Girls's Dress and Cape
ca. 1880
embroidered cotton
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Anonymous Japanese Makers
Boy's Kimono
ca. 1937-45
cotton stencil-printed with airplanes and helmets 
Asian Art Museum, San Francisco

Anonymous English Makers
Robe à la française
ca. 1750-60
Spitalfields silk with silver lace
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous English Makers
Robe à la française
ca. 1750-60
Spitalfields silk with silver lace
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Anonymous American Makers
Dress
ca. 1885
wool twill, silk embroidery, machine-made lace
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous Persian Makers
Coat worn by a Dervish
1857
(date the garment was purchased in Persia)
wool-felt patchwork lined with cotton
Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin

Anonymous Chinese Makers
Bridal Crown
19th century
metal frame embellished with multiple materials
Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin

Anonymous Chinese Makers
Bridal Robe
ca. 1875
embroidered silk
Art Institute of Chicago

Anonymous French Makers
Evening Jacket
ca. 1933
sequined silk
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Anonymous French Makers
Evening Coat
ca. 1920
embroidered and beaded silk satin with feathers
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

John Galliano for Dior
Dress with Hat
2000
hand-painted silk, nylon and leather
(back view)
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Telemachus' Kindness

When I was younger I felt 
sorry for myself
compulsively; in practical terms
I had no father; my mother
lived at her loom hypothesizing
her husband's erotic life; gradually
I realized no child on that island had
a different story; my trials
were the general rule, common
to all of us, a bond
among us, therefore
with humanity: what
a life my mother had, without
compassion for my father's
suffering, for a soul
ardent by nature, thus
ravaged by choice, nor had my father
any sense of her courage, subtly
expressed in inaction, being
himself prone to dramatizing, 
to acting out: I found
I could share these perceptions
with my closest friends, as they shared
theirs with me, to test them,
to refine them: as a grown man
I can look at my parents
impartially and pity them both: I hope
always to be able to pity them. 

– Louise Glück (1996)