The Willcox and Gibbs Chain stitch Sewing Machine is one of those vintage sewing machines that are seen frequently and used rarely. That's a shame. It's a really fun machine to use. They are very different than your more common lock stitch machine so it's no wonder they get little use. I had a tough time even threading mine at first. Because of this, I thought I would try to shed a little light on this little lovely for those that may have one but are unsure of what to do with it.
The Willcox Gibbs has been made from the 1860's through the 1930's with very little change. They have a distinctive circular shape that was treadle and hand crank then later fitted with a very fast electric motor. That is the kind I will be showing here. The advantage for use first would be cost. It is cheaper to buy and uses less thread as there is no bobbin to add thread to. The lack of bobbin also makes this a very quiet machine too. It makes a humming sound and a treadle would be nearly silent.
The stitch is a chain rather than two threads hooked together top and bottom like a regular lock stitch.
The Willcox Gibbs has a very handy function that would be useful to any seamstress today. The chain made on the fabric can unravel if broken mid seam. To a person who is making a mock garment - or muslin - it is an advantage that can save time and improve accuracy. Clip the last stitch and pull the tread. No seam ripper needed and it comes apart very fast.
Another thing that it does well is the chain stitch itself, as a decorative feature. On the top side of the cloth there is a small line but on the underside the chain is very visible.....and very lovely. It can be used with embroidery thread or regular thread to make a decorative line. I used this as tone on tone edging to great effect. It has an effect of embroidery, like redwork.
The Willcox Gibbs has been made from the 1860's through the 1930's with very little change. They have a distinctive circular shape that was treadle and hand crank then later fitted with a very fast electric motor. That is the kind I will be showing here. The advantage for use first would be cost. It is cheaper to buy and uses less thread as there is no bobbin to add thread to. The lack of bobbin also makes this a very quiet machine too. It makes a humming sound and a treadle would be nearly silent.
The stitch is a chain rather than two threads hooked together top and bottom like a regular lock stitch.
The Willcox Gibbs has a very handy function that would be useful to any seamstress today. The chain made on the fabric can unravel if broken mid seam. To a person who is making a mock garment - or muslin - it is an advantage that can save time and improve accuracy. Clip the last stitch and pull the tread. No seam ripper needed and it comes apart very fast.
Another thing that it does well is the chain stitch itself, as a decorative feature. On the top side of the cloth there is a small line but on the underside the chain is very visible.....and very lovely. It can be used with embroidery thread or regular thread to make a decorative line. I used this as tone on tone edging to great effect. It has an effect of embroidery, like redwork.
To help those who are unsure of the threading, here is an example. A manual is a good idea, but this part still seemed a little hard to understand from the illustrations contained in it. It's the part where the thread goes through the arm of the machine. You will need a crochet hook or long needle for this. Don't try and poke thread through like I did for an hour before getting the idea.....
Here is a video of the process of making a seam beginning to end. Note the part where you raise the needle (turn the wheel away from you) to the top and then pull a bit of thread. The length is then pulled through under the presser foot and cut, leaving a about 1" tail. Then the presser foot is lifted and work pulled back. Doing this is very different from the normal lock stitch and this way will save a lot of tangles.
Enjoy your WG!
