Sommermode Modell 5 – Muslin II

What a difference one size makes! The problems I had with size 46/48 simply disappeared when I made the 42/44. Once I re-traced the pattern, it went together quickly. I did use the side seams of the 46/48 and I added an inch to the hem. The only other modification I made was to create a back neckband. The back neck edge was to be finished with a fabric strip. I couldn’t figure out how that was going to look smart, so I did away with it. I like this pattern and next time I will change the sleeves to 3/4 length.

The fabric is a Lycra knit called “Dryflex." It was a $1.95/yard clearance offering from Fabric.com and purchased several months ago. Though I am not nuts about the color, the fabric quality really is nice. I have a few yards left so you will be seeing it again.

Now, when I go to make a muslin, I tend to choose the size based on the measurement chart included with the pattern. Lately, more often than not, that chosen size is too big and I am not sure why. However, I do know that there are many variables involved in the sizing of a sewn garment. Among them:

• The ease the designer included in the garment
• The ease that I expect the completed garment to have
• The type of fabric chosen

I detest tight fitting clothing and that is why, if I am between measurements, I will pick the larger size. Maybe it is time to reconsider this process.

Anyway, a small triumph and another TNT (tried and true) pattern for the file. Yeah!

Sommermode Modell 5 - Muslin

Here is the Sommermode t-shirt muslin. Because it is a muslin, I went ahead and sewed those questionable bust darts – just so I would know what I was dealing with. I chortled and blubbered when I tried it on. The darts were not at my bust, but mid-way between my bust and my waist. Not my best look and obviously the first thing to fix. I removed the darts and replaced them with gathers at the side seams.

The easiest revamp would be to raise the darts, but then I still have t-shirt darts. I don't want t-shirt darts. To make them go away they have to be moved.  As I don’t want the shoulders, armholes or center front messed with, my remaining options are limited to the gathered neckband area and the hemline.

I made a few copies of the 1/4 scale front bodice sloper template and experimented. The template is from Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. Norma R. Hollen wrote it and I have had it since the late 70’s.

The width of the front is increased if the bust darts are moved to the hemline (left). However, moving them to the existing gathers at the center front neckband would not add fullness to the body of the shirt (right). I'm thinking that my best bet is to move the darts to the center front neckband – after raising them first.

The shoulders are a bit wide (though not bad), the armscye is too low and I don’t have full motion of my arms while wearing the muslin. Should I try the next size down? Doing so would solve the dart problem, as the other sizes of this pattern do not include a bust dart. In addition, maybe the armscye would fit me better. Of course, I would need the extra girth provided by size 46/48 to accommodate my ample mid-section.

This style is similar to the Clash t-shirts. Yet, it could serve as another basic for me to wear with jeans or dress pants. For that reason, I will produce another muslin. Yep. Using up those stored fabrics. Bye, bye fabrics. Bye, bye.

Lena Sommermode Shirt, Modell 5

One of the gifts DD#2 brought me from a recent trip was this German Lena Sommermode magazine. The format is very similar to Burda. The styles are basic and, of course, the text is German. Thank you, Google Translate.

I have organized my fabrics a bit and when I came to the leftovers of the Butterick 5219 top, it looked like there might be enough to put together a muslin of Modell 5.

While tracing the front I noticed that the largest size (the size I needed – 46/48) of this pattern included bust darts. I’m not sure how I feel about a darted t-shirt, but as I have already cut it out, I am now committed. The pattern fit on the dress form. For insurance, I went ahead and added a bit to the waist.

By the way, the Singer 403A fit perfectly into the new-to-me (maybe/maybe not Horn) cabinet. The hinges had been attached upside down. It was a simple chore to install the machine once I figured that out.