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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Sep 30 02:00AM -0700 > Add to that, the fact that most caps are now made in China, and I know > they wont last.   Can you tell where the rest are made?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 30 09:43AM -0700 On Wed, 27 Sep 2017 11:41:25 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" >http://www.angelfire.com/va3/timshenk/codes/meihem.html >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   Well, if alphabetic economy is needed, may I suggest switching to Hebrew instead. Hebrew has only 22 letters, no vowels, and 5778 years of experience and testing. For situations where vowels might be useful, they can optionally be attached to letters as niqqud: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niqqud> In all, Hebrew would make a suitably economical replacement for the Kings English.   Another problem is conserving white space. White space is not really necessary. For example, ancient Greek did not have any extra spaces or symbols between words. <https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXjgRYASDNTlfYySK7hHFzJ8KLHnSYldAyAzgqZ69bd1vzIfrM5od-xtU7FC62ARxcpRtGRs0UocfwziRdoCsR_leuVA_PctEBM4jzFiC0Ha7IlYZRthLHKOsSWNzflMuaEFWunDwfsB0/s1600/794px-St%C3%A8le_grecque.jpg> The supply of white space is limited and in danger of extinction. When we run out of white space, allthewordswillruntogether.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Dave <thuranbak@gmail.com>: Sep 29 11:24AM -0700 > Thank You in advance, John   > PS, I searched the Web and tried www.samswebsite.com (Photofacts & > technical publications).   I see there's one listed on ebay - not mine but I should have one according to an old database I have from my service days back then. I do put some on ebay as I find them depending on condition etc. I'll keep a look out for it but it could take some weeks to locate. Dave

jurb6006@gmail.com: Sep 29 12:08PM -0700 Try your basic Google search. Many times it comes up with a link to electrotanya. There is also a very very slight chance the hifmanuals or hifiengine has it.

jaugustine@verizon.net: Sep 29 05:27PM >A different approach would be to mention the problem. Perhaps we can suggest a fix without the need for the manual.   >Dan   Hi Dan,   I should have mentioned I am a retired service tech (many years) in consumer products (TVs, VCRs, Stereos, etc.) repair.   The problem has to do with a long delay 30 to 40 seconds when you turn on the Radio before you hear the sound. This happens when the radio has not been turned on for several hours. If you turn on the radio in 15 minutes to a few hours after it was on, the sound "comes on" very quickly.   I know the technique to isolate the faulty stage. The schematic would save me time (I won't have to circuit trace).   John

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 29 01:51PM -0700 > I know the technique to isolate the faulty stage. The schematic would save > me time (I won't have to circuit trace).   Agreed. However, I suspect that you will find that electrolytic capacitors in general will be the actual problem(s). Look for any swelling or signs of damage or leakage - you may not need the schematic after all.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 29 02:54PM -0700 > I know the technique to isolate the faulty stage. The schematic would save > me time (I won't have to circuit trace).   > John     Try preheating the radio. If it then comes on immediately you've almost certainly got a lazy small value electrolytic on the board.   If you have an ESR checker, run through all the caps after the radio has spent about half an hour in the refrigerator.   I still make an excellent living repairing consumer electronics, and using time saving shortcuts allow me to do so. Very few things these days has a full schematic for it. Most of the time I'm piecing them together from IC datasheets.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Sep 29 07:06PM -0400 In article <20011a14-9032-446b-a84e-9f7ab34d4dde@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says...   > Try preheating the radio. If it then comes on immediately you've almost certainly got a lazy small value electrolytic on the board.   > If you have an ESR checker, run through all the caps after the radio has spent about half an hour in the refrigerator.   > I still make an excellent living repairing consumer electronics, and using time saving shortcuts allow me to do so. Very few things these days has a full schematic for it. Most of the time I'm piecing them together from IC datasheets.     If it has a switching power supply that is where I would look for a bad capacitor or more. If you have one of the SMD heat guns, play it on the electrolytic capacitors to see which one makes it come on faster.

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Sep 30 12:44AM +0800 On 30/9/2017 12:25 AM, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote: > Start Your Engines – Firefox Quantum Lands in .....   Kamen Rider Drive OP theme song <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToWdmzTEHK0>     -- @~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! /( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you! ^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 29 10:00AM -0700 Does it require tubes to operate?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 28 04:10PM -0500 > or at least the critical caps and the power supply filter caps. But then > again, "if it works, dont fix it". Having it power up with no hum, was > what impressed me most, since the electrolytics are usually bad.   Are you stupid, or do you just try to appear to be stupid?   "It works." Yeah, right up until it doesn't and fries an IF transformer or something else like one of the vacuum tubes.   A couple of examples: 1. A late '40s vintage Artone AM/FM/Phono console my parents bought new. It was working when I left home in 1972. I pulled the chassis around 2001 and turned it on. I worked for about 10 minutes and paaaf! one of the paper caps self-destructed. I replaced that one and tried it again. This time it lasted 3 minutes and pafff! another paper cap went away. After I changed the 4th one, I just replaced the remaining ones.' After another 15 minutes the one of the filter caps self destructed. I replaced all of them. The radio sits in my living room and has been working fine for the past 16 years. 2. A Hallicrafters SX-110 general coverage receiver. It looked like new and had the matching speaker. I set it on the work bench at the shop in 2007. Turned it on, and it worked perfectly. After 20 minutes the audio slowly dropped to zero. I turned it off to checked what happened. The filter can was hot enough to fry eggs. I recapped the radio and gave it to a friend of mine. It's still working perfectly and is one of his favorite radios.   But, by all means, do whatever you want. Solid technical advice is wasted on you.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Sep 28 10:09PM On Thu, 28 Sep 2017 16:10:58 -0500, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > perfectly and is one of his favorite radios.   > But, by all means, do whatever you want. > Solid technical advice is wasted on you.   Jeff was lucky, his capacitors failed quickly while he still had the radio apart. My experience was different, each one lasted months, so I ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go. But if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eggmen. Then replace nospam with expressmail. Lastly, replace com with dk.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 28 05:29PM -0500 On 9/28/2017 5:09 PM, Jim Mueller wrote: > radio apart. My experience was different, each one lasted months, so I > ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor > each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go. The Artone was the third set I worked once I decide I was going to play with old radios. The first was a Signatone code practice oscillator and every cap and resistor was bad in it. The second was a Columbia phono, AC/DC/Battery portable with a wind up clockwork mechanism.   After about ten years of playing with vintage tube gear, I opened a shop to do this for profit. This means when you fix a radio, it has to stay fixed once it goes out the door.   > But if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.   "You can't fix stupid."   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Sep 28 09:29PM -0400 >ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor >each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go. But >if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.   Considering my age, it probably dont matter, but I bet all the modern caps will fail in far less time than those old paper caps. Nothing these days is made as well as in the old days. Caps that are still working after 70 years were not poorly made. I think a lot of that was because in those days, people had respect for their customers, anad wanted the name of their company to stand out. That was before our "throw away society". That is no longer the case.   Add to that, the fact that most caps are now made in China, and I know they wont last. I try to get all NOS Orange Drop caps. They were made in the USA and were top of the line. They cost more, but are the only ones I consider worth buying.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 28 08:16PM -0700 > they wont last. I try to get all NOS Orange Drop caps. They were made in > the USA and were top of the line. They cost more, but are the only ones > I consider worth buying.   Capacior reliability is another topic to learn about. The 3 unreliable types are electrolytic, paper and multilayer ceramic. Other types are extremely reliable. Unfortunately most 1950s or earlier small caps are paper, and most are well & truly shot now. Replacing old papers with new plastic film is a big reliability & longevity upgrade.     NT

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 28 10:18PM -0500 > in those days, people had respect for their customers, anad wanted the > name of their company to stand out. That was before our "throw away > society". That is no longer the case.   Of for fuck's sake. You are one ignorant son of a bitch.   Caps made "back then" were made with non-archival, i.e. acid bearing paper. They were sealed with bee's way which was hygroscopic. Moisture reacted with the acid in the paper and that was the end of that.   Modern capacitors are made with a metalized mylar film and have a service life measured in hundreds if not thousands of years.   Modern electrolytic capacitors have improved 10 fold over the years.   > they wont last. I try to get all NOS Orange Drop caps. They were made in > the USA and were top of the line. They cost more, but are the only ones > I consider worth buying.   "A fool and his money are soon parted."   While you're at it, why not buy NOS Black Beauty capacitors.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 29 04:56AM -0700 > Add to that, the fact that most caps are now made in China, and I know > they wont last.       LOL! You *are* one stupid son of a bitch. There, I said it.   Even the worse plastic caps will outlast any paper and wax cap (one exception for another thread). I've been using these Chinese caps to restore old radios for 20 years and not one has failed. But by all means, keep using those paper caps and destroy tubes and transformers that are no longer in production - in *any* country...   And even if you were to believe your own bullshit, do you really think caps that are already 70 years old have any reliability left in them, more than a brand new Chinese plastic cap?   Jeff says you can't fix stupid. My older brother says you can fix stupid but you can't fix *really* stupid. I think you qualify as the latter.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 29 05:23AM -0700 A bit of history might help you understand things. Once upon a time, light switches and receptacles were designed to be able to handle AC and DC. What happens when switching DC? Arcing. So, switches and receptacles, and switches in everything from lamps to toaster had to be arc-resistant. In addition, manufacturers did not have 100 years of historical data to design from. So, things were over-designed (by modern standards), heavy (by modern standards) and many have withstood the test of time and survive to this day. Today, switches are either AC or DC, designed to very specific standards, and as long as they are used within those standards, will also last indefinitely.   Capacitors started as foil-and-glass devices, evolving to foil-and-paper (cheap) sealed with paraffin wax + some bees wax for workability (cheap), and some were potted in tar (even then, manufacturers understood that the materials had self-decay problems) and various other methods were tried - and discarded over time. BUT, remember, EVERYTHING WAS NEW back in those days. Nobody had 100+ years of data to use, and what we understand today as being very short blind alleys were enticing options. So, there is a LOT of crap out there that was perfectly functional when made. Electrolytics evolved similarly and improved similarly. As did resistors, even tubes. Nuvistors, developed about the same times as reliable transistors, were thought then, and perhaps still, to have a pretty-much indefinite service-life as compared to a standard tube.   So, now the evolution of consumer-grade electronic components, caps, resistors, transistors, and so forth, has made them into commodities based on unprotected (no patent protection) technology using cheap-as-hell materials and largely automated manufacturing processes operating at a precision that was not possible back-then. Meaning that a Visay-Sprague has no competitive advantage over the Grace L. Furgeson storm-door and capacitor company, or the Wa-Chen capacitor company operating out of a garage in Shanghai. But that Wa-Chen capacitor is superior in every way to the Sprague wax-paper cap produced in 1947. Or that plastic-encapsulated cap produced by Philco in 1961.   You really need to step back and take a 20,000 view of this hobby. Don't plant your feet 'back in the day' as you *DO* have 100 years of data to pull from, and you *DO* have the opportunity to bypass the mistakes of others and go directly to the proper solution. There is not one person in 20 that understands the sequence of events necessary for the lamp in their ceiling fixture to light up at the flick of a switch. They take it for granted. Back in the day, that simple result was the nearest thing to magic the world had ever experienced. If you understand how we got here, you need not repeat the mistakes, or duplicate the errors, or repeat the learning process as experienced over the last 100 years. Save yourself the pain.   Otherwise the appearance of idiocy you seem to cultivate so carefully may, in fact, be your reality. That would be sad.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Jonathan N. Little" <lws4art@gmail.com>: Sep 25 04:44PM -0400 Dusty wrote: > so getting this one going would be better.   > What brand is the most reliable pen drive ? > Need 32 G.     Usually no. When flash drives usually fail suddenly, without warning, and catastrophically.   One thought, are you sure that you do not have a counterfeit drive. A lot are out there especially large capacity ones.   <https://www.raymond.cc/blog/test-and-detect-fake-or-counterfeit-usb-flash-drives-bought-from-ebay-with-h2testw/>   Also look at this one, there a tons of examples online. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaHokQ5EWv0> Some other vids will run the previous link utils to expose the deception without disassembling it.   -- Take care,   Jonathan ------------------- LITTLE WORKS STUDIO http://www.LittleWorksStudio.com

Dusty <Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.com>: Sep 26 11:57AM -0700 Nothing on reliability ! As usual reviewers do not know how to review. What is most important to you ?   Their second top rated is the one that died.   Other parameter metrics are of little interest.   Buying a Sony 32G as the one I already have has been the best.   Why ? The Sony has worked at every USB port I have tried it on. The Sandisk only works on some USB ports. Why ? because the Sony connector is a better quality connector and can make up for the deficiencies of the USB PC connector. I have several SanDisk pen drives and with some I have to wiggle the pen drive for it to make a connection. Not so with the Sony. The SanDisk skimps on it connector length and area trying to save a penny and putting their fingers in my purse. Poor quality connector !   The Sony has more reliability and quality. So I pay a few bucks more but it is well worth it.     Bob_S wrote:

jaugustine@verizon.net: Sep 28 04:09PM Hi,   Does anyone know of a site where I can buy a schematic for a Sanyo model M2820 portable (mono) radio/cassette recorder?   Thank You in advance, John   PS, I searched the Web and tried www.samswebsite.com (Photofacts & technical publications).

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Sep 28 02:38PM -0700 A different approach would be to mention the problem. Perhaps we can suggest a fix without the need for the manual.   Dan

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 28 10:35AM -0700 On Thursday, September 28, 2017 at 11:56:53 AM UTC-4, Robin Ingenthron wrote:   > backpane? backlight? backpanels? backplanes?   > fairtraderecycling.org > Robin at WR3A dot org         Yikes. Do you mean that you use discarded TVs, remove the LCD, and use the back light as a basis for a sign?   If that's what you're doing and don't want to use the existing power/LED drive board, take a current measurement of the existing LED array with the TV running. Build/buy a current regulated supply that will supply the LED array with about 30% less current than the TV did (those are overdriven and have a very short life as installed). The voltage required can be up to 300 volts depending on how many LEDs are used and if they're all arranged in series, so every application is different.   Using the original supply can be easier, but you will have to externally enable the back light on command line and most of these power supply boards won't turn on the LEDs unless they receive a PWM signal from the main for the brightness feature. You'll either need to keep the TV main board functioning or build a pwm signal generator.   If you get the run current wrong on the LEDs, they won't last.   Not sure what you're trying to say about OLEDs, but we refer to the screen assy sans LCD display as a light box, although there's no standard definition that I'm aware of.   I think a far easier plan would be discard the TV components entirely from inside the light box and buy LED strip lighting and a control box (Alibaba, ebay). This way you can be sure you won't over drive the LEDs.

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 04:58PM > This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly > the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access > point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).   As a more easily digested top-level summary, for Rod and the others: a. Station mode (the default) b. Access Point mode   1. Station mode means the access point locks on to any given SSID/passphrase, acting as a "station". For example, you can stand on the nearest hilltop and point the radio down into the city miles below, select the best signal strength open access point, and connect to the Internet (if you're lucky with signal strength both ways).   2. Access Point mode means the radio acts as an access point of your Internet to anyone (who can be miles away) who wants to connect to your access point. You can stick the radio on a hilltop, pointing at the city miles below, and everyone in the city can "see" your access point (if you're lucky with signal strength both ways).   More details for setup on Ubiquiti radios such as these in my basement: <https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>   1. The Ubiquiti radios, out of the box, default to "station" mode, where you can temporarily connect them by wire or WiFi to a mobile computing device to log in (192.168.1.20, ubnt/ubnt) and point them at any access point (even those that are miles away) and then lock on to either the SSID or the MAC address. That's it.   After that one-step setup of choosing the SSID to lock onto, you can plug *anything* you want into the radio (e.g., a router, a camera, a computer, a mobile device, etc.) and it will be using the Internet of the SSID you're locked on to.   2. The Ubiquiti radios can easily be set up in Access Point mode, where you plug them into your router and then you can put this access point up to 300 feet away from the router, connected by that Ethernet cable.   This allows you to paint any part of your property, e.g., your pool or your barn or your front gate, etc., or even to paint an entire city miles away, with your access point.   In this photo below, you see that I have one powerful Rocket M2 (2.4GHz) which is set up in "station" mode, while the other powerful Rocket M5 (5GHz) is set up in "access point" mode. <https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>   Bear in mind that these radios can go for a dozen miles line of sight when connected to a similar radio, but the distance will be far less if the other radio is a cell phone, a router, or a less powerful access point.   The advantage, however, of these powerful Ubiquiti Rocket M2/M5 radios is that they have 24dBi and 30dBi antennas respectively, which, if you know how decibels work, is a huge increase in a weak noisy received signal strength.   However, even these two relatively weak 14dBi and 18dBi antennas can still go for miles line of sight under the right conditions on the other side. <https://s26.postimg.org/jbamhcg6h/00eradio.jpg>   None of those figures even count in the added power of at least 25 or so decibels (dbM) of power input into the antenna, so that gives you just an idea of how much more powerful, overall, these radios are compared to your typical SOHO router (which would be hard pressed to garner even 20dBm of EIRP overall).   All at just about the same price (so, IMHO, if you need an additional access point or a station that connects to an access point, then a typical consumer SOHO router is one of the worst ways to accomplish that task from a price-to-performance standpoint).

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 04:56PM > This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly > the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access > point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).   As a more easily digested top-level summary, for Rod and the others: a. Station mode (the default) b. Access Point mode   1. Station mode means the access point locks on to any given SSID/passphrase, acting as a "station". For example, you can stand on the nearest hilltop and point the radio down into the city miles below, select the best signal strength open access point, and connect to the Internet (if you're lucky with signal strength both ways).   2. Access Point mode means the radio acts as an access point of your Internet to anyone (who can be miles away) who wants to connect to your access point. You can stick the radio on a hilltop, pointing at the city miles below, and everyone in the city can "see" your access point (if you're lucky with signal strength both ways).   More details for setup on Ubiquiti radios such as these in my basement: <https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>   1. The Ubiquiti radios, out of the box, default to "station" mode, where you can temporarily connect them by wire or WiFi to a mobile computing device to log in (192.168.1.20, ubnt/ubnt) and point them at any access point (even those that are miles away) and then lock on to either the SSID or the MAC address. That's it.   After that one-step setup of choosing the SSID to lock onto, you can plug *anything* you want into the radio (e.g., a router, a camera, a computer, a mobile device, etc.) and it will be using the Internet of the SSID you're locked on to.   2. The Ubiquiti radios can easily be set up in Access Point mode, where you plug them into your router and then you can put this access point up to 300 feet away from the router, connected by that Ethernet cable.   This allows you to paint any part of your property, e.g., your pool or your barn or your front gate, etc., or even to paint an entire city miles away, with your access point.   In this photo below, you see that I have one powerful Rocket M2 (2.4GHz) which is set up in "station" mode, while the other powerful Rocket M5 (5GHz) is set up in "access point" mode. <https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>   Bear in mind that these radios can go for a dozen miles line of sight when connected to a similar radio, but the distance will be far less if the other radio is a cell phone, a router, or a less powerful access point.   The advantage, however, of these powerful Ubiquiti Rocket M2/M5 radios is that they have 24dBi and 30dBi antennas respectively, which, if you know how decibels work, is a huge increase in a weak noisy received signal strength.   However, even these two relatively weak 14dBi and 18dBi antennas can still go for miles line of sight under the right conditions on the other side. <https://s26.postimg.org/jbamhcg6h/00eradio.jpg>   None of those figures even counts the added power of at least 25 or so decibels (dbM) of power input into the antenna, so that gives you just an idea of how much more powerful, overall, these radios are compared to your typical SOHO router (which would be hard pressed to garner even 20dBm of EIRP overall).

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"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 27 11:41AM -0700 On Tuesday, September 26, 2017 at 7:16:44 PM UTC-4, Dave Platt wrote:   Actually, consider the additional i in Aluminium, and all those Us such as colour, behaviour an more, going on since the days of Shakespeare and before.   If you allow a cost of GBP 0.01/100 such extra letters, and for round figures consider that the average number of printed & written such letters is around two billion per year, that comes to GBP 200,000 per year. Since about 1590. Consider the miracle of compound interest - and what that would be worth today, not including all the additional years. What a waste!   That initial 200,000 would be worth GBP 807,434,220 +/- today. Boggles the mind.   http://www.angelfire.com/va3/timshenk/codes/meihem.html   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 27 03:39PM -0400 > If you allow a cost of GBP 0.01/100 such extra letters, and for round figures consider that the average number of printed & written such letters is around two billion per year, that comes to GBP 200,000 per year. Since about 1590. Consider the miracle of compound interest - and what that would be worth today, not including all the additional years. What a waste!   > That initial 200,000 would be worth GBP 807,434,220 +/- today. Boggles the mind.   > http://www.angelfire.com/va3/timshenk/codes/meihem.html   The question is what is the cost of conversion? Tell you what. If the UK converts from colour to color and aluminium to aluminum and a few incidental others, the US will convert fully to metric. I think both are equally likely unfortunately.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 27 12:52PM -0700 On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 3:39:23 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:   > converts from colour to color and aluminium to aluminum and a few incidental > others, the US will convert fully to metric. I think both are equally > likely unfortunately.   There is no cost to delete letters in future printings. There are massive costs associated with retooling. Emphasis on "Future". Engraved plates, and so forth may be left as-is. It would be new plates and so forth that would realize the savings.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 27 01:17PM -0700 > There is no cost to delete letters in future printings. There are massive costs associated with retooling. Emphasis on "Future". Engraved plates, and so forth may be left as-is. It would be new plates and so forth that would realize the savings.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   the imagined savings were based on 1p per letter, which has nothing to do with reality.     NT

hankvc@blackhole.lostwells.org (Hank): Sep 28 06:27AM In article <hiljsctonehbkmnnivrp1mu59osrc2j29t@4ax.com>,   >BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the >35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me, >but that's how it is.....   This looks to be the schematic for the set. It's an AA6, with an RF amplifier ahead of the converter. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/076/M0015076.pdf   We used to use schematics of sets like these back in the 1950's and '60's as interview questions for EE and technician canditates. One very good one was "talk to me about the rectifier circuit."   Understanding the circuit starts with understanding basic electricity, particularly Kirchoff's current law and Thévenin's theorem. What you are calling a "center tap" between pins 2-3 of a 35Z5 is at the 21.5% point of the heater, not the center. According to the RCA data sheets, with 35 volts between pins 2 and 7, you'll see 7.5 volts across pins 2-3. Now add a #47 (6.3v 150 ma.) bulb across pins 2 and 3, and feed the plate from pin 3. RCA claims that the voltage across pins 2-3 (and the bulb), with a 60 ma. draw on the cathode is now 5.5 volts and between pins 2-7, 32 volts.   That, of course, doesn't "add up." Assuming RMS values, a 150 ma. heater plus 60 ma. of DC is only 210 ma. RMS, which should explain the lower voltage between pins 2-3. However, also consider that current flow in the plate circuit, with a 40 mike cap connected to the cathode is a pulse, not a full half sine wave, and that RCA measurements were made with a VTVM, which isn't a "true RMS instrument." Those pulses, and the low thermal inertia of the pilot lamp filament(s) explains why the bulb is at full brilliance when the set is warmed up and playing.   Another "trick" to the series circuit is that during warmup, the series filaments are a voltage divider that is essentially constant for any current passing through the heater string. These heaters have a steep positive temperature (heat/ohms) coefficient, so the startup current is more like 1.5 amps. If you are going to fuse the radio, you need to measure the resistance of the filament string cold, and work from there.   That's for starters.   Now, as to the rest of the set, take a look at the B+ circuit and voltages. The tube data sheets give 100 volts on both plate and screen as "typical operation" points for AA5 tubes. However, this set says 76 volts. Also note that "typical operation" specs an initial bias (-1 volt for 12SK7), while this set has the cathodes of the RF tubes grounded.   Yes, that schematic is a very good interview subject.   Don't get foxed by "Mazda." That was a GE trademark from around 1910 to denote "tungsten filament," and was licensed by other bulb manufacturers. GE dropped using it in 1945. If you need bulbs, a 1490 is a 1490, readily available today.   If you are going to play the radio without recapping, the critical caps are the coupling caps between stages, particularly the cap feeding the audio power amp. Also, check the value of the grid leak resistor(s). You should see zero volts DC at the grid of the 35L6.   The AA5 (and AA6) are, with the DC-3 airplane, and the GG-1 locomotive, standout classics of American design. They look "simple" but there's a lot of thinking that made them robust and reliable without being complicated.   Hank

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Sep 28 06:55AM -0400 rickman wrote: > was not too long before the paint started to peel. I don't know the > type of plastic. It was a food storage container with a seal ring > commonly available in stores. Just a data point for what it is worth.     If you are talking about 'Tupperware' type containers, that plastic is the lowest grade available. It won't hold paint, and common adhesives won't stick to it.   -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 28 05:48AM -0700 On Thursday, 28 September 2017 11:55:48 UTC+1, Michael Terrell wrote:   > If you are talking about 'Tupperware' type containers, that plastic > is the lowest grade available. It won't hold paint, and common adhesives > won't stick to it.   They're food grade. Nothing sticks to polythene unless you torch it first or weld it.     NT

oldschool@tubes.com: Sep 28 11:44AM -0400 On Thu, 28 Sep 2017 06:27:49 -0000 (UTC), hankvc@blackhole.lostwells.org (Hank) wrote:   >lot of thinking that made them robust and reliable without being >complicated.   >Hank   Thanks for the detailed explanation. I had a suspicion that the "center tap" of the rectifier tube was not actually CENTER. The more I work on these old sets, the more I notice that they are all pretty much the same, particularly if it's the same brand. One website I looked at, said that the chassis is a number -xxxx-. (I forget the number, but it was a 4 digit number 10__). I guess that means this same chassis was used in other RCA radios, not just these 66X_ (1 thru 4) models. But considering the years they were made, that makes sense. They produced the chassis and made numerous cabinets to fit around them.   I have to say that I am highly impressed that this 70 year old radio still works, with it's old caps and all. I have considered recapping it, or at least the critical caps and the power supply filter caps. But then again, "if it works, dont fix it". Having it power up with no hum, was what impressed me most, since the electrolytics are usually bad.   Thanks for explaining that "Mazda". That had me puzzled. In all the years I have worked on this stuff, that is the first time I saw that word used. I should have suspected it was a trademark....   That schematic is clearer and better than the one I had, so that will help too.

Robin Ingenthron <ingenthron@gmail.com>: Sep 28 08:56AM -0700 Our company is manufacturing backlight signs for restaurants, and our current process involves keeping the original TV power board to light the backpane.   We think the TV powerboard is "overkill" to just run the lights and also has more value sold for another TV.   Does anyone have experience with Universal power boards like these ones (sold on Alibaba)?   http://www.finder.com.cn/Products/Details/LCDPower.htm   Finally, what's the best vocabulary word when the OLED crystal sheet is removed and you have only the frame and compact fluorescent / LEDs?   backpane? backlight? backpanels? backplanes?   fairtraderecycling.org Robin at WR3A dot org

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 28 03:56PM +0100 On 27/09/2017 08:11, N_Cook wrote: > (ie not 1000 minimum) available, even then pp3 ones are about 10 times > too big. > I was thinking of a 5V supercap might work as a replacement, if necessary   I now see 3cell 20mAh NiMH are easily available, but if there is a next time I'll first try 5.6V (small diode in the charging line as-is)zener over the motor and a 5V supercap of similar volume

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 28 11:09AM -0400 N_Cook wrote on 9/26/2017 2:22 PM: > But presumably it may return , unbalanced charge/discharge across the cells. > How to do the isolated charging of one cell properly, the next time in the > way of monitoring voltages and charge currents ?   Stick to lights with one cell.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 07:25AM > back of my house, either on the block wall where it can be a bit sheltered > or on the wooden barge board for the flat roof out in the weather.   > Preferably with POE to minimise the mechanical farting around.   Hi Rod Speed & Jeff Liebermann,   I just set up a spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio & 28dBi dish antenna in station/bridge mode, which is what Rod Speed needs if he wants to use the radio at his neighbor's house, to pick up the weak signal from Rod's SOHO Wi-Fi router. We tested this configuration at about 200 feet and got perfectly acceptable signal strength.   I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod Speed is most likely to do, but this post is only about how easy it is to set up the Ubiquiti radios in station/bridge mode to *receive* signal from a SOHO router Wi-Fi access point.   I'm using the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 in station/bridge mode right now, connected to a desktop PC Ethernet port and then picking up the signal from my SOHO WiFi router, which is exactly what Rod's neighbor would be using if Rod opts to put a receiving dish and bucket router on the neighbor's property facing Rod's home.   Here is a photo of the radios that I'm playing with for this test. <https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>   Here is a photo of the radios set up in AP mode (where Rod Speed would broadcast his signal to his neighbor) and set up in station/bridge mode (where his neighbor would receive the weak signal from Rod Speed's SOHO WiFi router). <https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>   Up until today, I was using a Mikrotik RB411/R52n-M radio to pick up the weak signal from the SOHO WiFi router. <https://s26.postimg.org/vanyu5hih/00cradio.jpg>   But we just got a set of spare Rocket M2 radios to play with so that's why I tested this out for Rod Speed. <https://s26.postimg.org/w1gozxjvt/00dradio.jpg>   For Rod Speed to test out what the neighbor would need to simply pick up the weak signal 300 feet away from Rod Speed's SOHO Wi-Fi router, here's all the neighbor needs to do.   1. Power up a Windows 10 PC (that's what I tested this on). 2. Connect the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio to the POE power "POE" port. 3. Reset the Ubiquiti radio to factory defaults (if needed). 4. Set the Windows 10 PC to a static IP address of 192.168.1.x (where x is anything not used, and not 20). 5. Connect the POE power supply LAN port to the Windows PC Ethernet port. 6. Log into the Ubiquiti radio at http://192.168.1.20 using the default login of "ubnt" and the password of "ubnt". 7. The radio will force you to set the country code & language and it will force you to accept the EULA checkbox. 8. The radio will force you to change the password, where it will take anything other than "ubnt" (e.g., "Ubnt" works just fine). 9. Go to the NETWORK tab and hit the "Select" button and select the SSID broadcast from the SOHO Wi-Fi router & enter the type of security and passphrase for that access point. 10. Hit "change" and "apply" and that's it. You're done!   The Windows 10 PC is now connected to the SOHO Wi-Fi router weak signal, and the Windows 10 PC is therefore instantly on the Internet.   In practice, the user can test this out at home, and then move the radio 300 feet away from the SOHO Wi-Fi router where the radio should still work pretty far out to connect to the weak SOHO router Wi-Fi signal.   Once the user establishes this works at 100 feet, 200 feet, 300 feet, etc., they can just put a router on the end of the radio, and they can wired or wirelessly connect any device they want to that router (such as a barn cam).   Here are screenshots of the relevant screens in the setup, but again, it's very simple because there is only one change that is required which is to set the radio to pick up the correct SOHO router Wi-Fi access point SSID, security type, and passphrase.   radio_001.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/54wprm12h/radio_001.jpg>   radio_002.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/dbopj6r55/radio_002.jpg>   radio_003.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/d1h6zucix/radio_003.jpg>   radio_004.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/9j573gbmx/radio_004.jpg>   radio_005.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/6dkld8t0p/radio_005.jpg>   radio_006.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/aa2z6ckbt/radio_006.jpg>   radio_007.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/csoo71621/radio_007.jpg>   radio_008.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/brofhwp2h/radio_008.jpg>   radio_009.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/6uauwsn3d/radio_009.jpg>

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 08:09AM > I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod > Speed is most likely to do   Here are the screenshots of the setup to set this Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in the mode that Rod Speed wants.   In this setup, the radio will hang off his SOHO router by cat5 cable and POE, and then this access point will paint the next few miles with his Internet signal such that a neighbor only a few hundred feet away should be able to connect to this powerful access point with small devices. https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg   This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).   ap_001 Security Certificate override at 192.168.1.20 (default) https://s26.postimg.org/xcpkferk9/ap_001.jpg   ap_002 Log in to 192.168.1.20 port 80 as ubnt/ubnt https://s26.postimg.org/rd1tbr6rt/ap_002.jpg   ap_003 Make sure AirMAX is not enabled https://s26.postimg.org/dkneg4g09/ap_003.jpg   ap_004 You should be in Access Point/Bridge mode https://s26.postimg.org/pnsq3or2h/ap_004.jpg   ap_005 Choose the SSID & security & channel & width you want for the AP https://s26.postimg.org/hwc054mx5/ap_005.jpg   ap_006 Choose any static IP address that you want for 192.168.1.whatever https://s26.postimg.org/4gozfoefd/ap_006.jpg   ap_007 There's nothing to change on the Advanced tab https://s26.postimg.org/69rw3zzm1/ap_007.jpg   ap_008 There's nothing to change on the Services tab https://s26.postimg.org/zdg408npl/ap_008.jpg   ap_009 There's nothing to change on the System tab https://s26.postimg.org/hood8mbyh/ap_009.jpg

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 07:29AM > But until then, this is how to set up a Ubiquiti 2.4GHz radio to pick up > the SOHO router from 200 feet away from the house.   I simplified and documented the procedure better because I just set up a spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio & 28dBi dish antenna in station/bridge mode, which is what Rod Speed needs if he wants to use the radio at his neighbor's house, to pick up the weak signal from Rod's SOHO Wi-Fi router. We tested this configuration at about 200 feet and got perfectly acceptable signal strength.   I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod Speed is most likely to do, but this post is only about how easy it is to set up the Ubiquiti radios in station/bridge mode to *receive* signal from a SOHO router Wi-Fi access point.   I'm using the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 in station/bridge mode right now, connected to a desktop PC Ethernet port and then picking up the signal from my SOHO WiFi router, which is exactly what Rod's neighbor would be using if Rod opts to put a receiving dish and bucket router on the neighbor's property facing Rod's home.   Here is a photo of the radios that I'm playing with for this test. <https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>   Here is a photo of the radios set up in AP mode (where Rod Speed would broadcast his signal to his neighbor) and set up in station/bridge mode (where his neighbor would receive the weak signal from Rod Speed's SOHO WiFi router). <https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>   Up until today, I was using a Mikrotik RB411/R52n-M radio to pick up the weak signal from the SOHO WiFi router. <https://s26.postimg.org/vanyu5hih/00cradio.jpg>   But we just got a set of spare Rocket M2 radios to play with so that's why I tested this out for Rod Speed. <https://s26.postimg.org/w1gozxjvt/00dradio.jpg>   For Rod Speed to test out what the neighbor would need to simply pick up the weak signal 300 feet away from Rod Speed's SOHO Wi-Fi router, here's all the neighbor needs to do.   1. Power up a Windows 10 PC (that's what I tested this on). 2. Connect the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio to the POE power "POE" port. 3. Reset the Ubiquiti radio to factory defaults (if needed) (just hold the reset switch, under power, until the lights all flash). 4. Set the Windows 10 PC to a static IP address of 192.168.1.x (where x is anything not used, and not 20). 5. Connect the POE power supply LAN port to the Windows PC Ethernet port. 6. Log into the Ubiquiti radio at http://192.168.1.20 using the default login of "ubnt" and the password of "ubnt". 7. The radio will force you to set the country code & language and it will force you to accept the EULA checkbox. 8. The radio will force you to change the password, where it will take anything other than "ubnt" (e.g., "Ubnt" works just fine). 9. Go to the NETWORK tab and hit the "Select" button and select the SSID broadcast from the SOHO Wi-Fi router & enter the type of security and passphrase for that access point. 10. Hit "change" and "apply" and that's it. You're done!   The Windows 10 PC is now connected to the SOHO Wi-Fi router weak signal, and the Windows 10 PC is therefore instantly on the Internet.   In practice, the user can test this out at home, and then move the radio 300 feet away from the SOHO Wi-Fi router where the radio should still work pretty far out to connect to the weak SOHO router Wi-Fi signal.   Once the user establishes this works at 100 feet, 200 feet, 300 feet, etc., they can just put a router on the end of the radio, and they can wired or wirelessly connect any device they want to that router (such as a barn cam).   Here are screenshots of the relevant screens in the setup, but again, it's very simple because there is only one change that is required which is to set the radio to pick up the correct SOHO router Wi-Fi access point SSID, security type, and passphrase.   radio_001.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/54wprm12h/radio_001.jpg>   radio_002.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/dbopj6r55/radio_002.jpg>   radio_003.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/d1h6zucix/radio_003.jpg>   radio_004.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/9j573gbmx/radio_004.jpg>   radio_005.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/6dkld8t0p/radio_005.jpg>   radio_006.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/aa2z6ckbt/radio_006.jpg>   radio_007.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/csoo71621/radio_007.jpg>   radio_008.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/brofhwp2h/radio_008.jpg>   radio_009.jpg <https://s26.postimg.org/6uauwsn3d/radio_009.jpg>

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 28 08:08AM > I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod > Speed is most likely to do   Here are the screenshots of the setup to set this Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in the mode that Rod Speed wants.   In this setup, the radio will hang off his SOHO router by cat5 cable and POE, and then it will paint the next few miles with his Internet signal such that a neighbor only a few hundred feet away should be able to connect to this powerful access point with small devices. https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg   This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).   ap_001 Security Certificate override at 192.168.1.20 (default) https://s26.postimg.org/xcpkferk9/ap_001.jpg   ap_002 Log in to 192.168.1.20 port 80 as ubnt/ubnt https://s26.postimg.org/rd1tbr6rt/ap_002.jpg   ap_003 Make sure AirMAX is not enabled https://s26.postimg.org/dkneg4g09/ap_003.jpg   ap_004 You should be in Access Point/Bridge mode https://s26.postimg.org/pnsq3or2h/ap_004.jpg   ap_005 Choose the SSID & security & channel & width you want for the AP https://s26.postimg.org/hwc054mx5/ap_005.jpg   ap_006 Choose any static IP address that you want for 192.168.1.whatever https://s26.postimg.org/4gozfoefd/ap_006.jpg   ap_007 There's nothing to change on the Advanced tab https://s26.postimg.org/69rw3zzm1/ap_007.jpg   ap_008 There's nothing to change on the Services tab https://s26.postimg.org/zdg408npl/ap_008.jpg   ap_009 There's nothing to change on the System tab https://s26.postimg.org/hood8mbyh/ap_009.jpg

mogulah@hotmail.com: Sep 27 11:41AM -0700 "While they have not put forward an alternative explanation for the explosion, outlandish theories in the past have included a massive volcanic eruption, a comet mainly composed of ice not solid space rock, a black hole colliding with Earth and even aliens shooting down a meteor from a UFO in order to save Earth."   Mystery Deepens Over World's Biggest Explosion In Russia Daily Mail - January 23, 2017 -- http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4147034/Mystery-deepens-world-s-biggest-explosion-Russia.html

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 27 08:32PM +0100 > Mystery Deepens Over World's Biggest Explosion In Russia > Daily Mail - January 23, 2017 > -- http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4147034/Mystery-deepens-world-s-biggest-explosion-Russia.html   What was so mysterious about the Chelyabinsk meteor ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelyabinsk_meteor   I suppose they did not have dashboard cams 100 years ago for a slightly larger meteor Earth-grazing air-burst event

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Sep 28 02:01AM On Wed, 27 Sep 2017 20:32:07 +0100, N_Cook wrote: > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelyabinsk_meteor   > I suppose they did not have dashboard cams 100 years ago for a slightly > larger meteor Earth-grazing air-burst event   And this has what all to do with sci.electronics.repair?????????

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 27 10:30PM -0400 Allodoxaphobia wrote on 9/27/2017 10:01 PM:   >> I suppose they did not have dashboard cams 100 years ago for a slightly >> larger meteor Earth-grazing air-burst event   > And this has what all to do with sci.electronics.repair?????????   Don't you think aliens are going to want their equipment repaired????????   Oh, that should be in sci.electronics.repair.alien... Sorry, my bad.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 28 08:22AM +0100 On 28/09/2017 03:30, rickman wrote:   >> And this has what all to do with sci.electronics.repair?????????   > Don't you think aliens are going to want their equipment repaired????????   > Oh, that should be in sci.electronics.repair.alien... Sorry, my bad.   But the paranoid android got by , not repairing all the painful diodes down his left side.

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