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"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@invalid.es>: Nov 29 06:07PM +0100 On 2016-11-29 08:27, The Real Bev wrote: > believe] Boulder CO, the black plastic bands show no sign of wearing > out, unlike the bands on previous Casio digital watches I've had.   > There's nothing quite like owning a truly accurate timepiece :-)   But it is not a "truly accurate timepiece", in the sense that it is not autonomous. It needs a sync signal from outside.   And I hope it is well built... I have a wall clock that syncs every night (about 3 AM) from a radio signal from Germany, I think. The rest of the day it runs autonomously.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radio_clock   However, sometimes there is some problem and it is 15 hours off sync. Depending on the model, it can manage to sync the next day, or never. I can not really trust it.   -- Cheers, Carlos.

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 29 09:16AM -0800 On 11/29/2016 09:07 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:   >> There's nothing quite like owning a truly accurate timepiece :-)   > But it is not a "truly accurate timepiece", in the sense that it is not > autonomous. It needs a sync signal from outside.   I suspect that if Boulder stops sending sync signals the microsecond accuracy of my watch will NOT be on my top-ten problem list :-)     > However, sometimes there is some problem and it is 15 hours off sync. > Depending on the model, it can manage to sync the next day, or never. I > can not really trust it.   Occasionally it doesn't get an update, probably because I was moving around during the syncing process -- I'm not a good sleeper. Unfortunately, I have no way of judging the resulting inaccuracy.   -- Cheers, Bev "I read about this syndrome called hypochondria in a magazine. I think I've got it." -- DA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 29 10:15AM -0800 On Mon, 28 Nov 2016 23:27:33 -0800, The Real Bev >believe] Boulder CO, the black plastic bands show no sign of wearing >out, unlike the bands on previous Casio digital watches I've had. >There's nothing quite like owning a truly accurate timepiece :-)   The nightly updates can be a problem. Propagation from WWVB is rather lousy during the daylight hours, and only improves on the left coast around midnight. <http://tf.nist.gov/stations/wwvbcoverage.htm> <http://tf.nist.gov/tf-cgi/wwvbmonitor_e.cgi> It's not lack of signal that causes problems. It's interference. It's not uncommon for updates to fail if the watch is left in an RF noisy location, such as next to an operating switching power supply.   Orientation is also a problem. Put the watch down with the tiny loopstick pointed at WWVB and you get no signal even if propagation is good. This is a lousy noisy signal with the end pointed at WWVB: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/WWVB%20test/end-pointed-at-WWVB.jpg> This is what a good signal looks like with the loopstick broadside to WWVB: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/WWVB%20test/loopstick-perpendicular-to-WWVB.jpg> Even cross polarization will produce a lousy signal. This is a noisy signal with the loopstick oriented vertically: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/WWVB%20test/loopstick-vertical.jpg>   What the watch does without WWVB updates is a matter of conjecture. I haven't done any testing nor could I find any online. Without the updates from WWVB, it's probably no better than a common digital watch. Even so, that's good enough for navigation, but for accuracy it requires WWVB updates. (4 sec error = 1 nautical mile)   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 29 10:30AM -0800 On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 18:07:29 +0100, "Carlos E.R."   >And I hope it is well built... I have a wall clock that syncs every >night (about 3 AM) from a radio signal from Germany, I think. The rest >of the day it runs autonomously.   I'm surprised that it works. I think you're in Spain and DFC77 transmitter is in Germany. Spain is at the outer edge of the coverage area: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCF77#Reception_area> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCF77#/media/File:Dcf_weite.jpg>   You can improve reception by moving the clock to a location where there is less electrical interference (away from switching power supplies, TV's, computahs, etc). Also, orienting the loopstick so that it is horizontal and "broadside" to the direction of Germany.   >However, sometimes there is some problem and it is 15 hours off sync.   That's what happens when the clock receives garbage instead of an update. The usual algorithm is for the clock to receive two or three valid updates in close succession before it will accept the data. If it hears two identical noisy updates, it will display erroneous data. It's very unlikely that this will happen, but it's not impossible. If your clock does NOT require two or three consecutive valid updates, it's highly likely that you will see far more garbage updates.   >Depending on the model, it can manage to sync the next day, or never. I >can not really trust it.   I don't think a DFC77 clock will work reliably at your location in Spain. Think about using NTP updates from over the internet instead. It can easily be done with a Raspberry Pi. <http://www.satsignal.eu/raspberry-pi/DigitalClock.html> An old handheld GPS receiver, mounted on the wall will also work but watch out for the 17 sec the GPS -> UTC difference.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

lew <citrustwosac@google.mailer.company.invalid>: Nov 29 08:51PM > updates from WWVB, it's probably no better than a common digital > watch. Even so, that's good enough for navigation, but for accuracy > it requires WWVB updates. (4 sec error = 1 nautical mile)   I had "atomic" wall clocks on battery as well as a bedroom clock on ac. Worked very nice until the utility companies went with the rf meters. Then the "atomic" clocks became drastically out of sync & sometimes got reset to what look like an unknown timezone. Had even tried replacement atomic wall clocks which had the same problems.   The Casio watch was nice until I had eye surgery after which I wasn't able to see the time well without reading glasses. Have switched to an analog faced timepiece with large numbers now.

"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@invalid.es>: Nov 29 10:48PM +0100 On 2016-11-29 19:30, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > area: > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCF77#Reception_area> > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCF77#/media/File:Dcf_weite.jpg>   Yes, I am at the middle of the 1500 km circle. Ie, at something like 1700 km. Those clocks are widely sold here, but they don't work on every room. Your graph explains it, but I already suspected it.   Pity there are no nearer transmitters. A network of transmitters, probably.   > there is less electrical interference (away from switching power > supplies, TV's, computahs, etc). Also, orienting the loopstick so > that it is horizontal and "broadside" to the direction of Germany.   My clocks (I have 4) do not have a ferrite rod, like those in the wikipedia. Unless minimal and well hidden.   > It's very unlikely that this will happen, but it's not impossible. If > your clock does NOT require two or three consecutive valid updates, > it's highly likely that you will see far more garbage updates.   I guess all use the same chip, and it is faulty. Once the clock syncs well, it should reject an update that is more than some minutes off. Humm... but then there is the summer saving time change. But some clocks use 3 volts instead of 1.5 and work better.     >> can not really trust it.   > I don't think a DFC77 clock will work reliably at your location in > Spain. Think about using NTP updates from over the internet instead.   I thought about that, yes, but not how to do it cheaply. A tablet would do, but more expensive.   > It can easily be done with a Raspberry Pi. > <http://www.satsignal.eu/raspberry-pi/DigitalClock.html>   Interesting, but complicated.   > An old handheld GPS receiver, mounted on the wall will also work but > watch out for the 17 sec the GPS -> UTC difference.   :-)   -- Cheers, Carlos.

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 29 06:46PM -0800 On 11/29/2016 12:51 PM, lew wrote:   > The Casio watch was nice until I had eye surgery after which I wasn't > able to see the time well without reading glasses. Have switched > to an analog faced timepiece with large numbers now.   Welcome to the world of the grownups!     -- Cheers, Bev Nobody needs to speak on behalf of idiots, they manage to speak entirely too much for themselves already.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 29 08:24PM -0800 On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 22:48:31 +0100, "Carlos E.R."   >My clocks (I have 4) do not have a ferrite rod, like those in the >wikipedia. Unless minimal and well hidden.   They have ferrite rods buried inside somewhere. Even the "atomic wristwatch" has a tiny loopstick coil inside. Look for something like these, which are a bit large for a wrist watch: <http://www.c-max.com.hk/en/technology/rct/rct_perp> <http://www.c-max-time.com/products/showProduct.php?id=20> The key performance factor of a VLF receiver is the Q of the pickup coil. Higher Q doesn't produce more signal, but does dramatically reduce the inband noise levels. The higher the Q, the less noise is picked up, and therefore the better the SNR (signal to noise radio). Tiny rods are marginal, but do work. Big rods are much better for reception. Big loops are even better, but without the ferrite core, they tend to be huge.   Photos of both loops and loopsticks: <https://www.google.com/search?q=wwvb+loop+antenna&tbm=isch>   >> It can easily be done with a Raspberry Pi. >> <http://www.satsignal.eu/raspberry-pi/DigitalClock.html>   >Interesting, but complicated.   If it were easy, it would probably not be any fun.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 29 08:34PM -0800 On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 20:51:31 -0000 (UTC), lew >rf meters. Then the "atomic" clocks became drastically out of sync >& sometimes got reset to what look like an unknown timezone. Had even >tried replacement atomic wall clocks which had the same problems.   Very strange and improbable. The "atomic" clock works on VLF (very low frequency) around 60KHz. Most electrical smartmeters run spread spectrum around 900MHz. The gas meters tend to use VHF/UHF frequencies in the 160 and 460Mhz bands. Chances of interference between such widely spaced frequencies is unlikely.   However, there are plenty of noise sources that will trash VLF reception. Plasma TV's are a common problem. Switching power supplied found in everything from battery chargers to desk lamps are noisy. Some PV solar panels, converters, and inverters are horribly noisy. Same with some CCFL and LED lamps. HF (high frequency) ham radio was almost impossible at my house until I tracked down the culprit (cheap battery charger for my cell phone).   You can actually use a 128Kbit/sec sound card to hear (and see) the 60KHz signals. By implication, you can also see the nearby noise sources. Buy a 128Kbit/sec sound card or dongle. Download a copy of SDR Sharp. Go noise hunting. I'm sure you'll find something you didn't expect.   >The Casio watch was nice until I had eye surgery after which I wasn't >able to see the time well without reading glasses. Have switched >to an analog faced timepiece with large numbers now.   At least you're not at the talking clock stage. My eyesight is slowly deteriorating, but has a long way to go before I can't see a digital clock. Oddly, I have more problems with some colors. I can't focus on red LED's and orange Nixie tubes. It's just a big blurr without glasses. However, the blue fluorescent displays are easily visible. Try different colors and see if it helps.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 29 08:39PM -0800 On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 09:16:51 -0800, The Real Bev   >I suspect that if Boulder stops sending sync signals the microsecond >accuracy of my watch will NOT be on my top-ten problem list :-)   Nope. Between nightly updates, the watch free runs just like an ordinary digital watch. If it updates nightly, it doesn't have enough time to drift too far in 24 hrs. Besides, if it updated continuously, the updates would drain the battery. So, the WWVB receiver is powered on only after midnight, tries a few times according to some algorith, and then turns off for the night as soon as it gets a valid update.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Nov 30 12:04AM -0500

"Stephen H. Fischer" <a_nani_mouse@mindspring.com>: Nov 29 10:30PM -0800 "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:v4ls3cdm5fils3p8mbqua143qkbjsf84s6@4ax.com... > On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 20:51:31 -0000 (UTC), lew > <citrustwosac@google.mailer.company.invalid> wrote:   ... > Try different colors and see if it helps.   > -- > Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com   In between the two eyes I had several weeks with one new and one old.   The colors were oh so much better with the new eye and remain so for both eyes.   One thing about cataract sugary, do not delay it. Your eyesight may get worse at an increasing faster rate, I was almost blind even with one good eye as the old eye was so bad.   SHF

"Stephen H. Fischer" <a_nani_mouse@mindspring.com>: Nov 29 10:22PM -0800 Ah, you did not spent the extra money ($4,400) for multiple lens in each eye like I did.   I went from two sets of glasses to none. Watch on wrist to TV and driving.   http://www.changcataract.com/   Sorry, you have only one chance at cataract sugery.   SHF   "The Real Bev" <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote in message news:o1leg5$5uq$1@dont-email.me...

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 29 11:09PM -0800 On 11/29/2016 10:22 PM, Stephen H. Fischer wrote: > Ah, you did not spent the extra money ($4,400) for multiple lens in each eye > like I did.   A friend just had those (+$3K over Medicare) done, and I envy her. My ophthodoc said that my astigmatism would make multifocal lenses worse than simple toric lenses (+$1K over Medicare), and I believed her. I've always had between 2 and 3 D of astigmatism on top of 2 or 3D of farsigntedness, and nobody in nearly 60 years of wearing glasses has ever been able to fully correct the goddam astigmatism. It's almost all gone now, and I thought about multi-focal contacts. Optometrist who seemed to know what he was doing said I wouldn't be happy with those either, and suggested monovision. That works, but not as well as I'd wish.   TMI, right?   > I went from two sets of glasses to none. Watch on wrist to TV and driving.   > http://www.changcataract.com/   > Sorry, you have only one chance at cataract sugery.   Hubby's aunt's was botched badly -- wouldn't unfold or something. Not only couldn't she see, but it was really painful. The operation was redone and she's OK now. Rather different from "I'd like something better, please."   -- Cheers, Bev "If you put the government in charge of the desert, there would be a sand shortage within ten years." -- M. Friedman (?)

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Nov 29 12:31PM -0500 <february30@nonewhere.com> wrote in message news:93rq3c5m16ell224c3iilp95en2ld3ngpq@4ax.com... > solid, so they cant touch anymore?   > Yes, I know they need a vacuum, so I'll have to use a vacuum cleaner to > suck out the air, then epoxy the hole shut.   Troll score - 3 of 10   Please try to up your game.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 29 01:05PM -0500 In article <o1kdt0$h08$1@dont-email.me>, tmiller11147@verizon.net says... > > suck out the air, then epoxy the hole shut.   > Troll score - 3 of 10   > Please try to up your game.   Iknow this is trolling, but on youtube I ran across a person that was building small tubes such as this at his house. Very interisting to watch him do it. Long time ago and I don't recall the title or where to find it.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Nov 29 02:31PM -0500

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 29 07:33PM Michael Black wrote:     >> I know this is trolling, but on youtube I ran across a person that was >> building small tubes   > There was one from Europe a few years ago that got a lot of travel.   You're probably remembering this one   <https://youtu.be/EzyXMEpq4qw>   > People made all kinds of things   There was a more recent one of someone making larger nixie tubes than the NOS ones   <https://youtu.be/wxL4ElboiuA>

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Nov 29 08:35PM +0100 A great number of sites on the Net provide old tubes.   There also exist tube regenerators which can remove short-circuits.   It also works for old CRT tubes.   But it is rather expensive and you have to find a shop which owns one.

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Nov 29 10:21PM Still won't work. You better come up with a plan for fixing the resistor, too.

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Nov 29 10:36PM Michael Black wrote:   > some success as a glass blower. I haven't seen much about whether people > are making triodes or anything more complicated.   > Michael   There was alot of tube bootlegging going on in the early 20s. I'm think a guy with the specialized equipment to make one tube would be strongly tempted to make a dozen or hire people and make hundreds or more.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 29 06:55PM -0800 >"Iknow this is trolling, but..."   I am not so sure. There are alot of people, especially in the US, who think you can DIY things you simply can't. It is a matter of knowing the process. At this point I wonder if tubes like a 6AU6 are bombarded like CRTs were.   At one point I thought about trying to build an EMPG but after some research (not posting on a forum) found out it is just about impossible without alot of money and resources. I have come up with alot of ideas that simply were not practical, and the ones that were were either unsaleable or already done and at the very least unpatentable.   Also, some people have no idea how to think things through. Even with an adequate vacuum pump, just how do you get the epoxy on there ? Tubes, before final manufacturing processes have a tube through which the vacuum is pulled ad then that is heated right near the seat of the socket, or other end and in the atmosphere the glass tubing collapses and then you cut it off. I am not sure when the getter is applied.   And the OP's assumption that one of the suspension components broke is a bit off as well. The 6AU6 is a pentode right ? Does it have the suppressor grid internally tied to the cathode ? (most do) If so the short is more likely caused by one of those fine wires simply breaking. They are held in place by mica sheets so any misalignment could only come from traumatic mechanical shock.   now if he has a G1 to plate short then the trauma must have been vertical and just made the whole thing shift down and cause the wires at the bottom going to the actual pins short out. Otherwise the short would read cathode to G2, not plate. Well not necessarily.   An excellent exercise in futility for a Tuesday night. Get off the four bucks and buy the tube and replace the resistor.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Nov 29 09:20PM This is a bit strange, never noticed it before.   The Mesa Boogie Mk4 has a switch for "Tweed", or "Full Power". Basically a PSU voltage drop for reduced power output.   I had one in that just would not perform in Tweed mode, but was fine in Full Power mode.     I discovered that all 4 of the Electro Harmonix ECC83 pre-amp tubes would not work with the reduced voltage, but substituting 4 new JJTesla ECC83 solved the problem. The EH tubes were actually branded "Watford Valves Cryo" - Watford Valves put these things into liquid nitrogen to make them work better. Apparently. Cough.     Anyway, after a bit of investigation I discovered that this Tweed switch is actually on the mains transformer Primary, and switches in some extra windings. The result of which is all the secondary HT voltages are reduced by around 20%, BUT, so is the heater supply voltage. In this case dropping from 6.1v to 5.1v.   I'm no expert in valve amp design, but this seems to be rather a strange design choice.     But then Mesa Boogie design their amps to work with their own branded valves, so they presumably know the reduced voltages, including heater, will mean their tubes will still carry on working.       Interestingly, I had another (non Cryo) Electro Harmonix ECC83 which didn't bug out at the reduced voltage, so perhaps this was a dodgy quad of ECC83, of perhaps something to do with the Cryogenic process?         Gareth.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 29 06:37PM -0800 Gareth Magennis wrote:     > Interestingly, I had another (non Cryo) Electro Harmonix ECC83 which didn't > bug out at the reduced voltage, so perhaps this was a dodgy quad of ECC83, > of perhaps something to do with the Cryogenic process?   ** I doubt they put the valves directly in liquid N2 - as it would destroy them instantly by cracking the glass. Even if done some other and safer way, the whole idea is completely nuts.   One of the design issues with valves is the vacuum tight seal between the pins and the glass base - cos steel and glass do not have the same tempco of expansion. Typically, steel has a higher tempco so the fit get tighter as the glass envelope heats - conversely it gets looser at very low temps.   Prolonged exposure at very low temps could let air ( or N2) into the vacuum and spoil the operation.     .... Phil

AGmR <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1050@example.com>: Nov 30 02:37AM Hello everyone,   My problem is i flashed unfortunately bios bigger than chip size ( yes i know im rly idiot) :/ then laptop shutdown suddenly in prosses with little power i mean the mouse i have is RGB light so its have low light now this is when AC power adaptor connected but if i unplug it with only battery connected when i press power button the mouse light appear then when i remove my finger from it light gone but no power @ all   so i tried this methods:   First i thought maybe there's some stuck charge in mobo so i removed whole things i mean whole just mobo with power button + cmos battery also then pressed power button for +30 secs   second i flashed the right bio hard way with spi programmer i did it before many times when the mobo was worked before for testing purposes     so still same problem i think now its maybe short in circuit or smd caps or mosfet dead or something i dnno :'(   so im not pro with hardware components but i need someone guide me what to do with multimeter to test figure out whats components dead to replace instead of replace the whole mobo cuz i cant do it and even send it to technical repair shop cuz it cost here so much $$ yes i mean it   so this is my schematic >> http://kythuatphancung.vn/uploads/download/670f9_Compal_LA-8241P.pdf << for this mobo   so thats it :)   --

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