Black Pinstripe trousers

My final piece in this collection are some black pinstripe trousers.

This is my altered New Look 6735 pattern. I also added extra hidden inseam zipped pockets.

 And here are all the pieces together

New Look 6216 trousers

I've slightly tweaked New Look 6216 and made it up in some lovely black suiting from stash. 1.6 metres of 150cm wide was just enough. I can't remember when or where I bought the fabric but it seems to be a viscose, polyester and elastane mix.

For fit I have extended the crotch on both the front and back as I needed the body depth. I've also lowered the front waist and raised the back waist as well as scooping out the back crotch. Much nicer fit!

I finished the hem with the blind hem stitch.

In addition to my fit alterations I also slightly widened the legs and enlarged the pockets

My first Metra Blazer

 

I've been noticing people's versions of the Metra blazer, and when it was the $5 Friday pattern a few weeks ago I bought it.

Metra Blazer - Love Notions Sewing Patterns

I watched a few YouTube videos on construction as well as reading the instructions and watching the linked videos. They all varied a little so I mostly followed the advice and did a few bits my own way. Its all worked out fine.

Sizing - I measured myself and chose the size which matched up with my measurements - this was an XL. I did a full bicep alteration on the sleeve. The fit is fine. 

As you can see the back hem is slightly raised which is more pronounced on me, I think on the next version I need to do a high round back alteration (normal for me).

Fabric - I used 2 co-ordinating jacquard double knits I had in stash. These were very spongy, and a bit thick when it came to topstitching etc. It also ravelled and needed to be finished with the overlocker.

I used the larger design for the front back and sleeves, and the smaller design for the side panels, pocket flaps and collar facing. I think it's worked out quite well.

The sort of welt pockets are really clever and I enjoyed doing them. There are not really any pockets, its just an opening into the inside of the facing. You do get a glimpse of the wrong side of the fabric, which isn't that attractive in this knit, so bear that in mind.

The shoulder and neck seam was a bit tricky in this fabric. I would probably had an easier time if I'd interfaced the snip area. Maybe next time!

I really like the pattern and will be trying the other view next.

Slim leg black trousers

 

I made some slim leg trousers from a stretch bengaline fabric and decided to use the Monsal lounge pants pattern. This is for knit fabrics, and didn't translate directly to the stretch woven. However scooping the crotch and tightening the elastic has sorted the problem and these should be good basics.

Monsal Lounge Pant pattern from the Wendy Ward Book "A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics".

A Vera knit top with lace sleeves

 

I adapted the FREE Vera Knit Top from Forget-Me-Not patterns for this knit top above.

Vera - Knit top (Free PDF pattern) - Forget-me-not Patterns (forgetmenotpatterns.com)

For my version I cut the body and cuffs from a solid black viscose jersey and the sleeves from a stretch lace. I lengthened the sleeves by 3 inches and adapted the cuff for my wrist. I also altered the V neck to a scoop neck and cut the ends off the neckband piece which I then seamed at the back.

Coat Progress

 My coat has got to a point where I can take a photo, but it isn't yet finished.

I'm using OOP Simplicity 4003 as my pattern. My coat is View B (the green one) with 6 inches added to the length.

I still need to do the lining (partially constructed), hems, inserting the lining and buttons and buttonholes, so quite a way to go.

I did interface some scraps and sew them together to simulate the button hole area, the machine was able to make a buttonhole without any problems, so just need careful marking.

I did make a test of View C (the checked one), and although I loved the collar I didn't think the belted double breasted front was the most flattering for me.

I'm much happier with the single breasted with faux fur collar.

Skirt and tops for a friend

 I'd picked up a remnant of floral jersey, which made a beautiful skirt for C.

For this I used the skirt pieces from the Simplicity 9473 skirt. I stitched elastic to the top and flipped it over, stitching it the ditch at the side seams to secure. I also added some inseam pockets from another pattern.

To go with it I made two t-shirts from the Closet Core Tee pattern

which if worn tucked in, give the look of a dress

I've used the 18D front with an elbow length sleeve for both of these.

Off Black Divided skirt

I had originally cut out some wrap around beach trousers - I think from Simplicity 5508 - in an off black thin cotton (or polycotton).

(It looks black until you see it next to something black - like the black serging thread, and then its clearly very very dark grey)

I wasn't convinced by the style and didn't sew them up.

Sometime later I found the pieces when I wanted something dark as the background for a test P&Q block. I whacked a chunk off one of the legs and did my block!

Recently I came across the remaining pieces and decided I'd rather have a divided skirt and wanted pleats that would make it look more skirt like and less trouser like.

I cut the legs off so they were all the same length, a good midi length fortunately.

Enter Vogue 9090, which is a skirt pattern I'd got free with a magazine. I copied the pleat placement. The deep centre front and back pleats nicely disguise the inner leg seams.

I added a wide elastic waistband making the skirt easy to pull on.

Here you can see the two legs.

A great piece for overseas holidays where its hot!

More Monsal Lounge Pants

I made two pairs of the Monsal Lounge Pants, from the Wendy Ward Book, A Beginners Guide to Sewing with Knits. 

One pair is black, the other dark grey marl.

Although it's easy enough for me to buy RTW joggers they don't fit me well, so I'm working through sewing my own so the old ones can be donated recycled.

Sparkles

Inspired by the lighting at a recent concert by Icelandic band Sigur Rós I decided to make a shirt from black babycord with embroidery and sequins. 

I used some plain black baby cord for the under collar, collar stand and lower back, but was able to get the other pieces out of the 1.2 metres of embellished fabric.

To echo the embroidery and sequin embellishment I chose these amber coloured buttons I bought some years ago from Bonds of Farsley (closed in 2019) and stitched them on with some lovely Ruby coloured Sylko40 thread.

The pattern I used was one I have used before several times, the shirtdress pattern from March 2020 Prima Magazine (a UK women's magazine) shortened to be a long shirt.

The only change I made was to cut the upper back from the embellished fabric, and the lower back from plain black fabric.

Style Arc Josie Hoody (sort of) in Charcoal and polka dots

 

This is part of my 'Ready for Anything' capsule, a charcoal grey hoody, supposedly for Pilates but has already been in general wear.

It is based on the Style Arc Josie Hoody, but without the turtleneck section at the front of the hood as I thought this would choke me.

I folded back the hood edge and included a drawstring, but just hemmed the lower edge on the coverhem.

Lined wool trousers

 Lined wool trousers

As I was cutting out the lined wool jacket, I managed to layout the pieces such that I could squeeze in the front and back of my altered New Look 6216 trousers, I cut the back a little wider, shaped the waist and used the plain charcoal fabric again for the pockets and inside of the waistband. I cut the pockets more jeans style so not much of the charcoal fabric shows.

The waistband is a little taller so I could use 2" elastic. As the wool is scratchy I also added a full lining to the trousers. As always I leave off the mock tie.

Lined wool jacket - McCall's 4394

 

This is the lined wool jacket made from McCall's 4394. It is the length of the jacket on the pattern envelope. I also shortened the sleeves a little.

The lining is a lovely floral print satin in shades of pink and green which picks out the threads in the wool. I've shown it by turning back one of the sleeves a little.

It has inseam pockets cut from a plain charcoal fabric.

The fabric has a black and dark grey weave as the base, shot with contrast threads in red, pink, coral, ivory, pale aqua and small amounts of others. 

I find this type of fabric works works in harmony with me now I'm greying. My hair is still fairly dark overall but with light hairs as well now.

'Ready for Anything' Capsule - side stripe sports tee (refashion)

To go with my Pilates trousers I refashioned a slightly snug RTW sports tee by adding red stripes.

Here it is with the red stripes. They are up the side seam, up the centre of the sleeve and around the armhole. The straight stripes are a 2 inch wide strip, and the armhole section is a shaped piece drafted to fit. Its a lot of fun!

Here's the tee shirt before - plain black and a bit snug.

'Ready for Anything' Capsule - side stripe yoga pants

 From the plan I posted I decided to start with the side stripe leggings, though they are more yoga pants.

My original drawing from the Plan

The trousers from the side

the trousers from the front

Style Arc Barb Pants

Pattern: I used the Style Arc Barb pants, with style and fit alterations. Style changes - I added a side stripe in a contrast pinky red stretch fabric. Fit alterations - shortened the leg, added 1/4 to the top, scooped the back crotch, angled in the back waist, cut the front waistband slightly longer, and the back waistband slightly shorter.

Fabric: A very stretchy (in all directions) matt black fabric bought from the local B&M roll end shop. It is slightly spongy and seems dense with no see through. The contrast side stripe is from a pinky red fabric with similar stretch properties but a much lighter weight.

I'll have to see how these hold up in the next Pilates class.