Playing Host: A Brother's Visit

I had the pleasure of hosting my brother last week. Whenever I attempt to get friends or family from the west to come visit me in far away South Korea I'm met with understandable reluctance, and I was admittedly skeptical when my brother announced he was intent on coming to see me. It wasn't until he had finally applied for and received his passport that I began to take him seriously, but by the time he got his plane tickets and departure date confirmed I'd already laid the groundwork for his arrival. It's not often I get to play host to people from my old life, and I treasure the few opportunities I'm given to introduce the people I care about to the country I've come to love.

I had a few friends out to see me prior to my brother's visit, one from back home and a few from Japan. Although I rolled out the red carpet for each of them, I never felt like I had truly shown them the best of what South Korea has to offer: my carefully laid plans would fall through, or we would run into hiccups while out and about, or in the case of my college roommate visiting me in January, it was just too insanely cold outside to be bothered with leaving my home! My friends assure me they had a good time while in Korea and I try to assure myself that I did my best, but I can't help from feeling a little guilty for not giving them the mind-blowing experiences I want them to have.

I didn't want to harbor the same regrets over my brother's visit, so I carefully planned what we should do together during his stay. Before he arrived, my brother sent me a list of places in Korea he had read about online that he wanted to visit. Most of his suggestions were out-of-the-way postcard landmarks that make for good photographs, but in my mind they didn't do much to convey what it really feels like to live in Korea. I wanted my brother to see Korea through my eyes, to live the kind of life that I've been living for the past four years. I knew that if I could successfully convey all of the things I love about being in Korea to him in a few action packed days, he would definitely fall in love with Korea as well.

That isn't to say my brother's seven day tour lacked sight-seeing. Absolutely Korea contains awe-inspiring historical architecture worth visiting and beautiful nature just begging to be explored, and I was sure to take my brother to as many must-visit locales as his short vacation afforded. However, what I was most excited to share with him are the little things that make being in Korea so much fun, the sort of experiences that get taken for granted by people who call Korea home but are an intrinsic part of living here.

I'm talking about knocking back soju shots with friends in a crowded Korean barbecue joint after a hard day's work, or strolling the packed streets of Hongdae on a hot summer night and taking in all of the street performances. I wanted my brother to enjoy the cleanliness and spaciousness of a Korean movie theater, the convenience and ease of riding the metro, the joys of having unlimited Gunpla at your fingertips. I wanted him to stuff his belly with as much local cuisine as possible, from pork barbecue and spicy rice cakes to giant bowls of noodle soup and fried cow intestine. We even toned it down and enjoyed the quiet simple pleasures of my countryside life, like hiking up the hill behind my house to the local temple or just standing on my roof and gazing out across the valley I call home.

When it was time for him to leave, I was happy to hear from my brother's own mouth that I’d achieved what I had set out to accomplish. He'd fallen under Korea's spell, and he would be returning to the west with longing in his heart (and soju in his suitcase). I don't know when or even if he'll be coming back to visit me again, but I'm satisfied in that I was able to make at least one person see the Korea I see.

And even though I never discussed the possibility with him, I like to think somewhere in his subconscious he's started wondering, "What if I got a job overseas, too?"

Jirisan Day 3: The Short and Sweet Goodbye

The end of my trip to Gurye and Jirisan was pleasantly uneventful. After meeting with and enjoying dinner and cards with the couple I had befriended on the bus, I retired to my room in one of the many minbaks situated in Jikjeon village. Minbaks are practically Spartan accommodations, providing little more than a shower and a sleeping mat, but for $30 I didn't mind at all. I woke up sore and creaky from my hike, as expected, but also content and well rested. I departed the minbak alone for the bus stop at the edge of town where I would catch the first bus back to Gurye. I had little time to admire Piagol Valley, but I could easily see why my new friend recommended it so highly. What struck me most was the sky: it was bluer than any I'd seen living near Seoul, and I felt a little sad I wouldn't be staying an extra day to enjoy such fine weather. I could easily see myself relaxing in the valley all day, sitting by the river with some rice wine and reading a book.
I took the bus to the terminal, and from there a taxi to the train station. The previous day I had been extremely fortunate in securing a ticket home; as luck would have it somebody had cancelled their reservation just as I was checking the railway's website (the couple weren't as lucky, as they only managed to find standing room on a later train). After arriving at the station and acquiring my paper ticket, I wandered around town for a bit, getting some breakfast and enjoying the final moments before heading home. I felt good. I felt happy. This adventure had been a success. I boarded the train knowing that I'll definitely be returning to Gurye and Jirisan someday.

Jirisan Day 2: Nogodan, Piagol and the Treachery of Jirisan

Finally, the day of the hike.

I woke up later than I had hoped to, and I didn't arrive at the mouth of the trail proper until 8am. It was quietly hidden behind the entrance to Hwaeomsa temple and I actually had some trouble locating it at first, to the point where I almost started hiking up the wrong path. When I was sure I had found the right way, I paused to have a quick breakfast of trail mix and jerky, and then I was off.

Jirisan Day 1: Bus Rides and Hwaeomsa

I've known about Jirisan for awhile. Actually, I've known about Jirisan since first I came to Korea. As soon as I arrived, the other native English teacher at my new school asked if I wanted to accompany him and his buddy down to the mountain that weekend. It sounded fun, but I respectfully declined. I had been in Korea for less than a day and I wanted some time to acclimate.
Fast forward three years later, and I've finally paid Jirisan a visit.

Morning commute

And by commute I mean an overly pleasant 10 minute stroll to work, especially now that spring has finally sprung. The tragedy is that this glorious weather will last just a few weeks before the hellish heat of summer begins.

When I arrived at school today, the students were outside doing their morning exercises; some asked me to play badminton with them. Of course I jumped at the opportunity.

Did I ever tell you I think I'm pretty good at badminton?