Wine Roasted Pears

This is a very light and super easy dessert that doesn’t require much forethought or lots of bowls and mixers. And since pears are coming into full blossom, it’s a great way to showcase their gorgeous simplicity.

These pears are roasted in a white wine baste sweetened with honey and sugar. You can serve the pears with a simple dollop of Crème Chantilly (a fancy term for whipped cream sweetened with sugar and flavored with a bit of vanilla), sweetened crème fraiche, vanilla ice cream or a slice of your favorite cheese. Very simple yet extremely satisfying fare.

Bench notes:
- Choose pears that are ripe but fairly firm. These are Bartletts.
- I used Viognier wine but a nice Sauvignon Blanc would be great.
- Use a baking dish just big enough for the fruit so that the wine syrup isn’t too shallow, which may cause it to reduce too much. Check the pears every few minutes toward the end of roasting to ensure the liquid hasn’t evaporated at the edges and started to burn. If you notice it’s reducing too much, add a bit of water and keep your eye on it.
- For an herbal backnote, add a sprig of thyme or rosemary after the syrup has been reduced and steep for about 15 minutes. Remove the herbs, pour the syrup over the pears and roast.
- This will serve 3 whole pears or 6 pear halves or any combination thereof.
- Try this with a fresh goat cheese or Humboldt Fog is delicious, as is Alta la tur, Robiola Bosina, Cana de Cabra, bloomy rind Cravanzina, salty blue Valdeon, Roquefort or any creamy blue.



Wine Roasted Pears
Serves 3 - 6

2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc
1 C water
2 1/2 T honey
1/4 C sugar

3 ripe but firm pears

Combine the white wine, water, honey and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Keep at a low boil until reduced by half, about 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Peel, halve and core the pears. Arrange them cut side down in a baking dish small enough to just fit the pear halves. Pour the wine syrup over the pears and roast until tender, about 40 minutes, basting and turning the pears occasionally. Keep a close eye on them the last 15 minutes or so to be sure the syrup isn’t reducing too quickly. Add a splash of water if necessary.

Serve warm with desired garnish of whipped cream, vanilla ice cream, crème fraiche or a slice of your favorite cheese.

Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream

I’m really hoping you have a bounty of fresh peaches in your area because this is a fabulous dessert. It comes from Daniel Humm, a native of Switzerland who was Executive Chef at Campton Place in San Francisco and is currently at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. He's received many awards and accolades so I decided to try his take on this seasonal dessert. Wow, am I glad I did.

Although this is not a particularly fancy or laborious preparation, the elements taken together feel like a well planned marriage. Fresh peaches are smothered in a light syrup of white wine, honey and a slight sprig of rosemary. Don’t let the addition of this herb scare you away; it’s only steeped for a few minutes and it deepens the flavor beautifully without overpowering or influencing too much. The 40 minutes of roasting really caramelizes the sauce and produces wonderfully soft fleshy fruit. The Mascarpone Ice Cream delivers a lovely and natural creamy counterpoint to the warm glow of the peaches, full of flavor without being too heavy or too rich.

If you find yourself in the company of some pretty peaches anytime soon, this is an indulgence worthy of your time and attention. It’s got a bit of a Mediterranean feel to it, so it's just the sort of dessert to enjoy al fresco as a pure and simple sunny summer luxury.


Bench notes:
- The recipe calls for 7 oz of mascarpone. The container I bought was 8 oz and I wound up using the whole amount.
- The Mascarpone Ice Cream as written was too sweet for my taste so I added 1/4 C buttermilk to the ice cream base. I thought this not only tempered the sweetness but also produced a wonderfully acidic tang that enhanced the mascarpone in the finished ice cream. If you prefer your desserts on the not-too-sweet end of the spectrum, you can do as I did or perhaps consider reducing the sugar in the ice cream to 1/2 C + 2 T. Taste the heated milk and sugar mixture and judge accordingly.
- The ice cream does take quite a bit of salt. Add a small pinch at a time and keep tasting. You'll know when it pops.
- I always chill my ice cream base overnight. This give the flavors a chance to relax and marry and ensures the mixture is very well chilled, which saves on the wear and tear of your ice cream machine.
- I used Viognier wine for the peaches but any good Sauvignon Blanc will do.
- The recipe calls for peeling the peaches. I did not.
- Put the peaches and the syrup in a baking dish that is not too large. The first time I made this in a large dish the syrup was shallow and it evaporated too quickly during the roasting process and burned. My oven does run hot, but I’d advise to check the peaches closely during that last 15 minutes of roasting. Or perhaps lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees.
- I think this dessert is best served when the peaches and the sauce are warm.
- You could definitely get more than four servings out of this if needed.
- The wine sauce for the peaches is really delicious. I’m sure I’ll use it in other applications, not necessarily always for roasting.



Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream
adapted from Daniel Humm in Food & Wine magazine
4 servings

Mascarpone Ice Cream

2 C whole milk
4 egg yolks
3/4 C plus 2 T sugar
1 C mascarpone (7 ounces) [I used an 8 oz container]
1/2 t fresh lemon juice
Pinch of salt
1/4 C buttermilk [my addition; see note above]

Roasted Peaches

2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc
2 T honey
1 C water
1/4 C sugar
1 rosemary sprig
4 large ripe but firm peaches

For the ice cream, combine the milk and 3/4 C sugar in a saucepan. Heat until the sugar is dissolved and the milk is simmering.

Whisk the egg yolks with the 2 T sugar until light yellow. Slowly add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from cooking. When all the milk has been added and combined, pour back into the saucepan and cook over medium low heat until the mixture thickens a bit, coats the back of a spoon and leaves a clean trail when you make a streak with your finger. Do not boil. Take off the heat immediately and pour into a clean container. Whisk in the mascarpone, lemon juice and salt to taste. Add buttermilk, if using. Cool completely. Cover and place in the refrigerator to chill completely.

Pour the chilled custard into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface, cover and freeze until firm.

To prepare the peaches, combine the white wine, honey, water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and slow boil until the mixture is reduced by about half. Add the rosemary sprig and let stand for 10 minutes. Discard the rosemary.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Peel the peaches if desired. Halve and pit them and arrange in a baking dish small enough to just fit the peach halves. Pour the rosemary syrup on top and roast the peaches until tender, about 40 minutes, basting and turning the peaches half way through.

Scoop the Mascarpone Ice Cream into serving bowls and top with the peach halves. Spoon the warm poaching liquid over the fruit and serve right away.

Panna Cotta with Red Wine Granita

I love the interesting combination of panna cotta and granita. The texture of panna cotta is creamy, the flavor is beautifully basic and spare. The granita is icy and the flavor is usually quite concentrated. As one begins to melt into the other, you wind up with a playful exchange of both.

Panna cotta has all the virtues of an eggless custard, which can be put together in a matter of just a few minutes. Granita also has the advantage of quick preparation without the need for any extra machinery. So there's really nothing to prevent you from having a little bit of Italy on your table if you're feeling up for the journey.

This dessert matches a simple vanilla panna cotta with a spiced red wine granita. Each component is delicious on its own, but together they make for an unusual and enjoyable treat, perfect for the coming warm weather where there will be lots of occasions to share delicious meals with friends and family.

Bench notes:
- I use a minimum amount of gelatin to make the panna cotta because I don’t unmold it and I like the silkier texture for this dessert.
- Sprinkle the gelatin into the cold water rather than the other way around to keep lumps from forming.
- This granita is based on a pear poaching liquid from Bistro Cooking by Patricia Wells
- Use your favorite red wine. I chose a Tempranillo wine this time around and it was great, but any fruity Zinfandel, Cabernet, Syrah, Pinot or Merlot will work.
- You might also enjoy Panna Cotta with Fig Compote and Orange Granite


Panna Cotta with Red Wine Granita
Serves 6

Red Wine Granita

1 1/2 C fruity red wine
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 C water
2 T crème de cassis liqueur
1 T lemon juice
1/2 sprig rosemary
2 cloves
4 black peppercorns

Panna Cotta

1 1/2 C heavy cream
1 1/2 C half and half
1/3 C sugar
1 t vanilla
1 t fresh lemon juice
pinch of salt
1 1/2 t unflavored gelatin
2 T water

For the granita, combine all ingredients into a saucepan and simmer on low for about 10 - 15 minutes to concentrate the flavors. Cool completely. Strain into a shallow airtight container, cover and place in your freezer. After about 2 hours, take a fork and scrape the surface of the granita to form icy crystals. Place back in the freezer and repeat again in an hour or so.

For the panna cotta, place 2 tablespoons of water in a small dish. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water. Let sit for a few minutes to bloom.

Bring the heavy cream, half and half and sugar to a slow simmer over moderately low heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Add the vanilla, lemon juice and a pinch of salt and whisk thoroughly.

Set the bottom of the dish of bloomed gelatin in a pan of simmering water to melt, then whisk into cream mixture. Pour the panna cotta into parfait glasses or dessert dishes and chill in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight until firm.

To serve, garnish the panna cotta with a couple of tablespoons of the granita and enjoy immediately.

Rhubarb Compote with Strawberries and Cream

It’s rhubarb season! Rhubarb may seem strange to some, but it has a long history for medicinal use that dates back to 2700 BC China. Ben Franklin is often credited with bringing rhubarb plant seeds to the East Coast in the late 1700s but it was only developed for culinary use in the 1800s when it became popular in Great Britain as an ingredient in dessert and the production of wine. When cooked with sugar, rhubarb has a unique tart flavor and juicy texture that makes pie lovers swoon.

This rhubarb recipe is one of those desserts that you can pull together in just a few minutes. It’s all about the enjoyment of the simplicity of fruit. Although it’s not fancy, it looks and tastes like something beautiful and fresh.

The rhubarb compote is made by simmering fresh rhubarb with a little bit of white wine, sugar, some orange zest and half a vanilla bean. The wine complements the acidity of the fruit and the vanilla and orange zest round out the flavors beautifully. The resulting syrup is a bright pink and it tastes wonderful. Add some fresh sliced strawberries and a dollop of crème fraiche and you’re all set. Easy, quick and a satisfying welcome to spring.

Bench notes:
- After the rhubarb compote has been cooking for a few minutes, taste the liquid to be sure the sugar level is right for you.
- I like a garnish of simple crème fraiche, but whipped cream or vanilla ice cream are also good options.
- Also try substituting raspberries for the strawberries or adding some finely diced crystallized ginger.



Rhubarb Compote with Strawberries and Cream
Makes 4 servings

3 stalks fresh rhubarb
1/2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc
1/3 C sugar
zest of 1 medium orange
1/2 vanilla bean

2 C fresh strawberries
crème fraiche, whipped cream or ice cream for garnish (optional)

Wash and cut rhubarb into 1/2” pieces. Combine the wine, sugar and orange zest in a saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the pan and toss in the bean. Bring to a simmer to dissolve the sugar. Add the sliced rhubarb and cook on a low simmer until tender. Remove the vanilla bean casing and cool the compote.

Slice the strawberries into quarters. Distribute the compote in 4 bowls and add the strawberries. Pour syrup over the fruit. Garnish with cream.

Custard Tartlets

It’s hard to describe how incredibly, mind-numbingly good these little Custard Tartlets are. They look innocent enough, nothing more than a flaky buttery crust with some luscious pastry cream tucked inside. But oooh-me-oooh-my do they ever pack a ton of flavor and satisfaction in a very little bite. I’ve never considered myself a custard person, but that may be about to change.

I’ve been wanting to make these for a long time, but just never made a point of doing it. Since my two best dim sum buddies were coming to dinner, I realized I must try to duplicate their favorite little nibble at the end of our Sunday morning feasts. Now I’m wondering what took me so long to experience this magic. Sometimes the simplest things are the best. It’s no wonder that some version of them are found in many different cultures. They are even said to have been served at the coronation banquet of King Henry IV in 1399. I think I now very clearly understand the expression, fit for a king!

Bench notes:
- You can make both the pastry dough and the cream and store in the refrigerator overnight.
- When rolling out the pastry, always rotate the dough after each roll to make sure it isn't sticking. Gently lift with a dough scraper or spatula if necessary. A piece of parchment helps to cut down on the amount of flour you use.
- This is a luscious pastry cream that you could use on its own unbaked. Creamy with great flavor, it can serve as a filling for cakes or a little garnish for cookies and fruits. The rum adds a richness without tasting of alcohol.
- These tartlets should be eaten on the same day they are baked.

Custard Tartlets
Makes 12 tartlets

Pâte Brisée

1 1/4 C flour
1 t sugar
1/4 t salt
4 oz (1 stick) cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Pastry Cream

1 C milk
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
3 yolks
1 T cornstarch
1 t flour
1/2 t vanilla
1 t rum
1/2 T butter

For the dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and combine. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add. Pulse a few times just until the butter is in small pea-sized pieces and the mixture resembles a very coarse meal. Add the cold water and pulse just until the mixture starts to clump. Pour the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and gather it into a flattened disc. Wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours or overnight.

Place the dough on a piece of parchment or work surface lightly dusted with flour. Let it sit for a few minutes to take the chill off. Roll out to a thin sheet, nearly 1/16" or so. Cut out a dozen 3 1/2” circles and tuck each into a standard muffin pan. Chill while you make the pastry cream.

Place the milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until combined. Add the cornstarch and flour and whisk thoroughly.
Pour about half the warm milk into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the remaining milk and combine thoroughly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly for a couple of minutes until thickened and smooth.
Take off the heat and add the vanilla, rum and butter. Stir until smooth.
Place a piece of plastic on the surface and let cool.

Preheat the over to 350 degrees.
Prick the bottom of the tart shells with a fork. Bake for about 12 minutes or until slightly browned and crisp.

Remove from the oven and scoop the pastry cream into the pastry shells.
Bake for about 20 - 25 minutes.

Eat them quickly before you have a chance to come to your senses.

Winter Fruit Crisp

There are some really lovely pears and apples in abundance right now. The pears I bought were especially succulent to eat as is, but since it’s been raining and overcast for several days over the last week, it’s time to conjure up a simple and comforting winter harvest dessert to shake the cold!

This Winter Fruit Crisp is a version made mostly of ingredients out of our good old-fashioned American pantry. To start, I use apples and pears tossed with lemon juice. Since I love tart things, I added a handful of dried cranberries. But for a spot of intrigue, I decided to throw in a few chopped dates, which are cooked for a couple of minutes with brown sugar, the spicy warmth of cinnamon and cardamom, a splash of Amontillado sherry, a perk of orange zest and finished with a dab of butter, all of which conspire to create a very lovely spicy caramel. For textural contrast, the streusel topping includes some oatmeal and walnuts.

The proportion and blending of these flavors and textures really plays out beautifully. Each bite has layers of luscious fruit, heady spice and soft, chewy, crunchy texture. The aromas and flavors that emanate from each spoon are very much in keeping with the season. It’s rustic and familiar but in a very different and delicious way, a quintessentially winter treat so good you could certainly offer it to your best friend. Or anybody you’d like to be your best friend. As the rain beats on our windows, light the fireplace and curl up with this Winter Fruit Crisp for a kind and soothing song of warmth and comfort.

Bench notes:
- Pears should be ripe but firm. I used D’anjou pears and Fuji apples.
- I used a Lustau Amontillado Los Arcos Sherry, which has a roasted nut bouquet and a trace of caramel.
- You could certainly omit the walnuts in the streusel, but they really do add a great earthy/toasty goodness.



Winter Fruit Crisp
Serves 6

3 apples
2 ripe pears
2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice (1 lemon)
1/4 C granulated sugar
2 T flour

1/2 C Amontillado sherry
3 T water
1/4 C brown sugar
zest of 1 orange
3/4 t ground cinnamon
1/2 t cardamom
pinch of salt
1 T butter
6 medjool dates, diced into small pieces
2/3 C dried cranberries

For the topping:

1/3 C flour
1/3 C light brown sugar, only lightly packed
1/4 t salt
1/2 C oatmeal
1/4 t cinnamon
1/2 t orange zest
1/2 C walnuts, chopped into small pieces
2 oz (1/2 stick) butter, diced into small pieces

6 4” ramekins or 1 9” baking dish

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

To make the topping, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, salt, oatmeal, cinnamon, orange zest and chopped walnuts. Place the butter in the mixture and work it in with your fingers until the mixture is combined into large crumbles. Set aside.

Peel, core and cut the apples and pears into medium-sized chunks. Place the fruit in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice, granulated sugar and flour.

Place sherry, water, brown sugar, orange zest, spices and salt in a saucepan over low heat. Bring to a boil for about 2 or 3 minutes, stirring. Add the chopped dates and dried cranberries and lower heat. Cook for another minute or two to blend flavors. Cool for a couple of minutes, then gently toss together with the apples and pears until all ingredients are combined.

Divide the fruit into 6 ramekins or pour into a baking dish. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit and out to the edges of the dish so the fruit is completely covered.

Place the baking dish on a sheet pan and bake for about 30 minutes, until the topping is browned and the fruit is bubbling vigorously. Serve warm.

Walnut Brandy Cake

‘Tis the season for festive cakes that showcase lots of nuts and dried fruits and spice. These are the kinds of cakes that date back to ancient times. For those who don’t care for the standard seasonal fruitcake fare, this is a nice substitute when you want something festive but not fussy or too heavy. With so many things to accomplish in the days ahead, a few simple and basic ingredients plus the addition of brandy make this a snap to put together and serve or present as a gift to your favorite host or hostess.

Bench notes:
- Toast the walnuts in a 350 degree oven for about 10 minutes, until they are only slightly darkened and give off a toasty aroma.
- If you’re not a fan of walnuts, substitute toasted almonds, pecans or hazelnuts.



Walnut Brandy Cake

6 oz butter
1 C sugar
3 eggs @ room temperature
1/4 C milk @ room temperature
3 T brandy
1 t vanilla
1 1/2 C flour
1 t baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 t freshly grated nutmeg
1 C coarsely chopped toasted walnuts

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2” loaf pan with oil and a piece of parchment paper large enough to form an overhang along the length of the pan.

Toast and coarsely chop the walnuts.

Cream butter and gradually beat in sugar. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, making sure that each one is incorporated before adding the next and scraping down the bowl as necessary.

Combine milk, brandy and vanilla.
Sift flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg.
Alternate adding a third of the flour to the butter and eggs with 1/2 milk mixture, beginning and ending with the flour. Once all the ingredients are in, mix just a minute or so then finish the mixing by hand. Fold in walnuts.

Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Bake the cake for about 50 – 60 minutes or until it tests done.

Cool the cake on a wire rack for about 30 minutes. Remove it from the pan and cool the cake completely. Peel off the paper and dust the top with confectioners' sugar.

Raspberries with Sabayon and Hibiscus Granita

I seem to have a lot of beautiful fresh raspberries on my hands at the moment. They’re bright and juicy, so I thought I would leave them in their natural state and surround them in luxury. Sabayon always adds a level of lusciousness to any fruit and I thought a Hibiscus Granita would contribute another interesting layer of lovely earthy tartness. The mesmerizing textures of fresh raspberries, creamy sabayon and cool granita make this a fun and refreshing adventure. As the granita melts into the sabayon, it makes a delicious sauce that I’m finding irresistible. If you haven't discovered the wonder of hibiscus tea, start brewing!

Bench notes:
- Use your favorite hibiscus tea or Flor de Jamaica, which you can pick up at health food stores or Mexican grocers. Make the tea quite strong.
- For the sabayon, I recommend a good quality Muscat, Semillon, Viognier, Monbazillac or a Sauvignon Blanc. You can make the sabayon and chill overnight. Fold in the whipped cream just before serving.
- This would probably be good with any berry. And if you’d rather not make a sabayon, you might try this with a bit of sweetened whipped cream.
- For another delicious take on fruit and sabayon, try Oranges with Rosemary Sabayon.


Raspberries with Hibiscus Granita and Sabayon
Serves 4

Hibiscus Granita

2 C strong hibiscus tea
1/4 C sugar

Brew the hibiscus tea until it is quite strong. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Cool and place in the freezer. When the mixture has solidified, take a fork and scrape it across the surface to create slushy ice crystals. Return to freezer.

Sabayon

4 egg yolks
1/4 C sugar
1/2 C Muscat or other fruity white wine
1/2 C heavy cream, chilled

2 C fresh raspberries

Whisk egg yolks, sugar and wine in a stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure that the bowl is not touching the water. Check periodically to see that the water is not boiling. Whisk constantly for 4 to 5 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl. Cook until the mixture is thickened and expanded in volume. If you have a thermometer, you’re shooting for about 160 degrees. Remove from heat and continue whisking for a bit. Set aside to cool.

Whip the heavy cream just until soft peaks form. Fold gently into cooled sabayon.

To serve, place a small pile of raspberries in a dessert glass or bowl. Top with sabayon and a few more raspberries. Garnish with granita. Serve immediately.

Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince

I always look forward to quince season. There’s something about the process of watching this oddly shaped and textured fruit transform into the most delectable and uniquely flavored rosy compote that is so interesting and enjoyable. Whether it's poached fruit, jam or membrillo, quince arrives just at the time we need it as a lot of the stone fruit of summer quietly escapes our grasp for another year.

I was just gifted with a bounty of fresh pineapple quince. An old friend introduced me to a new friend who has a tree in his back yard. It seems unusually early in the season but I’m more than thrilled. The aroma is transformative and lingers for days on end.

Cheese flan is somewhere along the spectrum of custard and cheesecake. It’s found in Latin culture but is usually prepared using cream cheese and evaporated milk. For this preparation, I decided to use some goat cheese to add a layer of complexity that I thought would go well with the poached quince. For the liquid I use reduced ratios of wet ingredients and heavy cream and some Muscat wine. The result is a kind of dense but creamy custard that really delivers an incredible pop of flavor. The light caramel complements the quince and presents a nice counterpoint for the goat cheese.

The quince takes some time to peel and poach, but the reward is tremendous. The flan is very easy and quick to prepare and bakes in 25 – 30 minutes. The flavors of both the flan and the fruit ripen overnight. If you do this in two steps, it will seem like no work at all. What you will have is a great celebration of this beautiful autumn.


Bench notes:
- As always, be very careful when working with caramel. Caramel burns really hurt, so always protect your hands and arms. As it reaches the right color, pour it into the ramekins and use a mitt or towel to carefully swirl just for a moment. The caramel does not have to go up the sides of the ramekin more than a little bit.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into quince. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- I keep the poaching liquid for the quince very simple so the true flavor comes forward without competing with the flan and the caramel. The syrup left over from the quince can be used to flavor drinks or drizzle over ice cream. You can also use it as a base to make sorbet or ice cream.
- If you can’t find an inexpensive Sauternes or Muscat, use a Monbazillac or Viognier or other favorite white wine that has a very slight sweet edge.
- Don't be tempted to bake it much longer than the recommended time. They will firm up as they cool. The baked flans rest overnight in the refrigerator to better create the liquid caramel sauce. The sugar has a chance to liquefy and they are easier to unmold. Once they are unmolded, let the flans sit for awhile until they can be served at room temperature. I’ve also eaten them a couple of days later straight out of the refrigerator. They are completely different – very dense with a mellow cheesy flavor. Also really delicious but in a different way!
- I’ve also made this flan base and steeped it overnight with a pinch of rosemary. The next day, I strain it out, bake and serve with quince, fresh fig or pear compote. It would also be delicious with an apple sauté.


Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince
Makes 4 servings using 3 1/4” diameter ramekins

3/4 C sugar
1/4 C water

4 oz goat cheese
4 oz cream cheese
1/3 C sugar
pinch salt
1/3 C cream
1/4 C white wine, such as Beaumes de Venise Muscat, Sauternes, Viognier or Monbazillac
2 eggs

Prepare caramel by placing sugar and water over medium high heat. If the sugar spatters up the sides of the pan, brush down the sides of the pot with a brush dipped in water. Cook the caramel until it is a medium amber. Take off the heat and wait a few seconds until it darkens a bit more on its own. Pour enough into the ramekins to coat the bottom and swirl just a bit up the sides.

In a food processor, blend goat cheese, cream cheese, sugar, salt, cream, wine and for just a minute or so. Pulse just until thoroughly blended. Pour into prepared ramekins.

Bake in water bath @ 325 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool and chill overnight.

To unmold, set the ramekins in about an inch of water that has been simmered and taken off the heat. Leave them there for about a minute. Remove them and run a very thin knife blade or small offset spatula around the rim. Invert onto a serving plate and give it a good tap. It should slip right out along with the liquefied caramel sauce. Serve at room temperature with poached quince.

Poached Quince

2 – 3 quince
2 C water
3/4 C sugar
juice of 1 lemon

Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Take off heat and add the lemon juice. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon syrup to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and syrup to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the quince are tender and have turned a deep pinkish orange. Cool and transfer to a clean airtight container and chill.

Olive Oil Cake

I recently received a wonderful sample of some delicious extra virgin olive oil from California Olive Ranch, so I set about thinking how I could put it to best advantage in the pastry kitchen. I also had some oranges, fresh figs and fresh rosemary on hand and wanted to include those as well. The result is a cake that melds the luscious taste and aroma of terrific olive oil, the textural interest of cornmeal, a slight herbal back note and a subtle blush of wine. Together with a fruit compote it becomes a great example of northern California (and Mediterranean) baking at its best.

The cake is light, very, very tender and moist. The small amount of cornmeal adds a lovely barely-there edge to the texture. The orange and lemon zest and rosemary really brighten the flavor without competing with everything else. The flavor of the olive oil is so deliciously creamy and earthy and mysterious that you can hardly keep from having another taste. I think all the beautiful flavors and textures are in perfect balance.

This dessert would make a very lovely end to any meal but is especially delicious if it follows a table full of the bounty of fresh summer products. But I can also imagine it in the midst of winter accompanied by some poached pears and a thin slice of a grand Parmigiano Reggiano.

California Olive Ranch Arbosana Extra Virgin Olive Oil is supremely delicious in this recipe. I prefer olive oils in the style emanating from Spain and this is definitely in that category. Recently awarded a gold medal by the California Olive Oil Council and rated "#1 California-grown EVOO" by Cooks Illustrated, it has a very clean, very fresh, aromatic and refined flavor. If you’d like to try this or explore any of their other blends, you can order it online. And for my readers, just use ‘PASTRY09’ as a coupon code upon checkout and you’ll receive free shipping. This offer is available through September 30, 2009.

Many thanks to California Olive Ranch for featuring my post on Olive Oil and Sherry Poundcake with Peaches in Honey Lemon Syrup and to Alice Medrich for her kind emails. I highly recommend all of her flawless cookbooks, which are each in their own way pure classics.


Bench notes:
- For the wine, I used a Viognier, which has crisp citrus overtones with a very slight hint of honey.
- This cake would also be delicious with apricots and whipped cream or whipped cream with apricot compote swirled in. Or peaches with whipped cream sweetened with Rosemary Syrup. Or serve the cake plain with some red flame grapes or blackberries.
- My cake baked in 35 minutes, but you can start checking it around 28 minutes or so. The difference between a moist cake and a dry cake can be about 2 or 3 minutes.


Olive Oil Cake
Serves 8

1 1/4 C cake flour
1/4 C + 2 T yellow cornmeal
2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
1 C sugar
zest of 1/2 orange
zest of 1/2 lemon
1/2 t rosemary, finely chopped
1/2 C good quality extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs @ room temperature
1/2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc

Fig and Orange Honey Compote

1 pint of fresh figs
2 oranges
1/2 C honey
1/4 C + 2 T water
2 – 4 t fresh lemon juice, to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare an 8” x 2 1/2" round cake pan with parchment circle, oil and a very light dusting of flour.

Sift the cake flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt.

Place the sugar, orange and lemon zest and finely chopped rosemary in a food processor and blend a couple of minutes until the mixture is aromatic. Pour into a large bowl and whisk in the oil until smooth. Add the eggs and blend thoroughly. Mix in the wine. Gently stir in the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt until just blended. Do not overmix.

Pour into the prepared pan and bake for about 35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out with just a few moist crumbs attached.

Cool for 10 minutes. Run a thin knife or spatula around edge of cake and invert. Remove parchment paper and flip the cake bake over onto a serving platter. Cool completely.

For the compote, slice the peel and white pith from the oranges with a very sharp knife. Carve out the orange sections over a bowl to collect all the juice. Cut the figs into quarters and add to the bowl of orange slices.

Place the honey and water in a saucepan and warm over low heat until dissolved and blended. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice to taste. Toss the fruit with honey lemon syrup.

Dust the cake with powdered sugar and serve with fruit.

Blueberry Red Wine Sorbet

If you're like me, the last few days have been spent doing your best to cool off. We're in the midst of a heat wave in this normally cool city, so I went to my kitchen full of fresh fruit and put together the perfect cure.

Imagine the deepest magenta sorbet full of the freshest blueberry flavor combined with the earthy richness of a good red wine and the slight subtle backnote of spice. What you get is a light and refreshing cold slush that will leave you more than satisfied after a light summer meal. Or even after a substantial grilled menu, come to think of it.

Blueberries are the treasured fruit of a healthy diet and are found in abundance just about everywhere. As the temperatures rise this season, ice cream, sorbet and granita seem the perfect antidote. There are dozens of fabulous recipes full of wonderful ingredients to try, so let’s get started!



Bench notes:
- Crème de cassis is a wonderful liqueur made from black currants in the Burgundy region of France. I use Chermette. The liqueur lends a bit of sweetness and a rich berry depth to the sorbet base. Crème de cassis was originally produced by 16th century monks as a cure for disease and wretchedness. Incidentally, it is the favorite drink of Agatha Christie’s fictional detective, Hercule Poirot!
- I sometimes throw a sprig of rosemary in the simmering wine. It adds a delicious herbal backnote.



Blueberry Red Wine Sorbet

3 C fruity red wine, such as zinfandel or merlot
2/3 C water
1 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, sliced lengthwise and seeds scraped
1/4 C crème de cassis liqueur
2 T lemon juice, to taste
4 cloves
4 black peppercorns
2 pints fresh blueberries (about 4 C)

Combine wine, water, sugar, vanilla bean, cassis, lemon juice, cloves and peppercorns in a large saucepan over low heat. Simmer for about 25-30 minutes. Strain out the spices and vanilla bean. Cool.

Blend some of the liquid and blueberries in a food processor or blender until blueberries are smooth. Pour into a fine mesh strainer placed over a large bowl. Keep processing in batches until you have the entire mixture liquefied and strained. Taste for more lemon juice. Chill in covered container overnight.

Freeze the blueberry mixture in your ice cream maker. Pour into a container, cover the surface with a piece of plastic wrap and place the lid on tight. Place in the freezer to firm up.

Chocolate Cake with Spiced Cherry Compote

Cherry season is here! Cherries are now everywhere and their bright red color beckons. They’re so beautiful, juicy and delicious, it’s impossible to resist them. Time to make all those incredible cherry desserts we’ve been waiting so patiently to create and consume.

I love this cherry compote. It’s got lots of cherry richness, just enough red wine and just enough spice to make it an incomparably superb accompaniment to ice cream, panna cotta, cheesecake or chocolate cake. Since I had some Devil’s Food Cake left over from another experiment, I decided to use it to dress up the cherries along with some gooey dark chocolate sauce.

This is an incredible dessert with a great combination of complementary flavors. The Devil’s Food Cake comes from Flo Braker and is one of the most delicious and tender cakes you’ll ever bake. All of the ingredients are in perfect balance so the flavor and moisture are supreme. Once you bake this cake it will become part of your permanent repertoire. The deep dark Chocolate Sauce delivers an interesting sensory contrast to the light delicate cake and the rich fruit of the Cherry Compote. I hope you have the chance to make this soon while cherries are dancing across our shelves.


Bench notes:
- I used a cabernet sauvignon for the Cherry Compote. You can also go with a fruity zinfandel.
- If you don’t have crème de cassis for the compote, you can substitute your favorite tawny or ruby port.
- The high ratio of sugar to butter in the cake recipe requires you to cream the mixture for about 6 to 7 minutes until it is light in color and fluffy in texture. At first you’ll wonder how it’s going to come together but it will. Honest!
- Double the recipe for the Devil’s Food Cake, add your favorite frosting and you have a fabulous layer cake.
- The Chocolate Sauce will keep refrigerated for several days.



Chocolate Cake with Spiced Cherry Compote
Makes 8 servings

Devils’s Food Cake
adapted from The Simple Art of Perfect Baking by Flo Braker
Makes 1 8” cake

1 C cake flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/8 t salt
1/4 C cocoa powder
1/4 C lukewarm water
2 oz (4 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/2 C brown sugar
1 egg @ room temperature
1/4 C buttermilk @ room temperature
1 t vanilla
1/4 C water

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Prepare an 8” x 3" cake pan with butter, parchment and a light dusting of flour.

Sift together flour, baking soda and salt.
Whisk cocoa and water together until thoroughly blended.
Combine buttermilk, vanilla and water.

Cream butter and slowly add sugars. Cream mixture until light and fluffy, about 6 to 7 minutes on a stand mixer. Stop and scrape down the bowl at regular intervals.
Add egg and blend well. Scrape down the bowl.
Add cocoa mixture and combine thoroughly.
Gently add dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Stop mixing just before it is fully blended and finish by folding gently with a rubber spatula until there are no streaks. Be careful not to overmix. Pour into prepared pan and smooth batter evenly.

Bake @ 350 for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering. Cool 10 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife around the edges to loosen and turn out the cake. Cool completely.

Spiced Cherry Compote

3 C red wine
3 T crème de cassis
1 C + 3 T sugar
2 T fresh lemon juice
1 star anise
6 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 lbs fresh cherries, pitted

Combine all the ingredients except for the cherries in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a slow simmer. Add the cherries and simmer on low heat until the liquid is syrupy and has reduced, about 30 minutes. Remove star anise, vanilla bean, bay leaf and peppercorns. Cool.

Chocolate Sauce

1 C water
3/4 C sugar
3/4 C cocoa
1/4 t salt, to taste
1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C heavy cream

Bring water and sugar to a boil to dissolve. Add cocoa and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil for about 3 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent scorching. Once it has thickened, remove from heat and add vanilla and cream. Add salt to taste. Cool.

Serve the cake with a glaze of Chocolate Sauce and garnish with Cherry Compote.

Olive Oil and Sherry Pound Cake with Peaches in Honey Lemon Syrup

Fresh peaches have arrived! The first sighting for me turns out to be California peaches that are small and fragrant with a deep crimson blush. Beautiful.

Since I always like to enjoy the season’s first tasting with minimal preparation, I served them sliced with skins on and bathed in a light honey lemon syrup, cozily nestled on a slice of Alice Medrich’s deliciously fragrant Olive Oil and Sherry Pound Cake. This is quintessential Mediterranean and northern California fare that seems a perfect way to ring in the new season of gorgeously plump and juicy fruit. Simple, flavorful and full of the colors you’d see in a Cezanne.

The cake has a dense tight crumb but is fairly light for a pound cake due to the substitution of olive oil for butter. The flavor is of course also considerably different thanks to the luscious scent of cold-pressed olives and the unique characteristics of amontillado sherry. The orange zest bridges the two and rounds out the different notes. Although wonderful all by it self, it’s especially fabulous with these fresh peaches. As the cake bakes, you’ll be surrounded with a dazzling aroma that will easily take you to the shores of Barcelona or the vineyards of Napa’s Silverado Trail. Dreamy.


Bench notes:
- Use an olive oil that is extra virgin and full of flavor. The sherry should be amontillado, which is in between a fino (darker) and an oloroso (lighter). It is often served with olives or cheese, nuts and dried fruit. It has a nutty, yeasty flavor with a hint of lemon. I used a dry Lustau Los Arcos.
- The cake definitely improves when allowed to sit for a day. The flavors mingle and mellow together and are much more integrated. After it cools completely, wrap in an airtight container and give it some time.
- This cake would also go well with apricots, nectarines, plums, pears or roasted dates or Noyau Ice Cream.



Olive Oil and Sherry Pound Cake with Peaches in Honey Lemon Syrup

Olive Oil and Sherry Pound Cake
adapted from Pure Dessert by Alice Medrich
makes 2 loaves

3 C flour
2 t baking powder
1⁄4 t salt
2 C sugar
1 C flavorful extra virgin olive oil
2 t grated orange zest
5 cold eggs
1 C amontillado sherry

Prepare two 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pans with oil and a wide strip of parchment paper, leaving an inch or two hanging over the longer sides of the pan.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt.

Whisk the sugar, oil and orange zest on high speed until well blended. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. When all the eggs have been incorporated, beat until the mixture is thick and pale, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Add one-third of the flour mixture. Mix on low speed just until blended. Add half of the sherry and mix just until blended. Repeat with another third of the flour, followed by the remaining sherry and then the remaining flour.

Pour the batter into the prepared pans. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean with a few moist crumbs, 50 to 55 minutes. Cool for about 15 minutes. Gently lift the cakes up by the overhanging parchment paper and cool completely.

Wrapped airtight, the cake stores well at room temperature for about 3 days.

Peaches in Honey Lemon Syrup

6 small ripe peaches
1/4 C mild honey
3 T water
1 – 2 t fresh lemon juice, to taste

Place the honey and water in a saucepan and warm over low heat until dissolved and blended. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice to taste.

Slice the peaches and toss with the honey lemon syrup.

Roasted Pears with Bay Leaf Sabayon

One of autumn’s perfect treats is roasted pears. Delicious on their own, you can also fancify pears with a dessert sauce. Beautiful pears of every variety are coming into the markets and it’s time to enjoy their juicy goodness.

This time out I’ve paired some roasted bosc pears with a sabayon that has a tinge of herbal flavor. Fresh bay leaves have a smell and a taste that lend a mysterious spiciness to desserts. They add just a breath of autumn, enough to place this dish squarely in the realm of earthly simplicity.



Bench notes:
- Baking time for the pears will vary depending on how ripe the fruit is. The pears are done when they are easily pierced with a knife.
- Bosc pears are best for roasting. They hold their shape and roasting concentrates their flavor perfectly. I also tried Comice, widely considered to be the queen of pears, but they were not as flavorful. I think they're best enjoyed eaten fresh and unadorned.
- Use a wine that isn't too assertive, such as a mild Sauvignon Blanc or an aromatic Viognier.



Roasted Pears with Bay Leaf Sabayon
Serves 4

4 bosc pears
juice of 1 lemon
2 T sugar
3 T butter

4 egg yolks
1/4 C sugar
1/2 C Sauvignon Blanc
3 T bay leaf syrup (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel and core the pears. Cut into 1/4” slices and gently toss in lemon juice. Place in a baking dish and sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter. Put a couple of tablespoons of water in the bottom of the dish.

Bake pears for 25 to 30 minutes, basting and turning every 10 minutes to brown evenly. Add a bit of water to the baking dish as necessary. Cool roasted pears.

Whisk egg yolks, sugar, wine and bay leaf syrup in a stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure that the bowl is not touching the water. Check periodically to see that the water is not boiling. Whisk constantly for 4 to 5 minutes, including the bottom and sides of the bowl. Cook until the mixture is thickened and expanded in volume. If you have a thermometer, you’re shooting for about 160 degrees. Remove from heat and continue whisking for a bit. Set aside to cool.

Bay Leaf Syrup

1/2 C water
1/2 C sugar
8 fresh bay leaves

Chop bay leaves into 1/2” pieces.

Bring water and sugar to a boil. Turn down the heat and add chopped bay leaves. Simmer about a minute or so. Cover and remove from heat and let steep for 3 hours. Strain and store in the refrigerator in a clean, airtight container.

Yeasted Plum Tart

Continuing along in my plum reverie, I stumbled upon another delicious recipe from Ripe for Dessert by David Lebovitz. We can see the fruit of the season narrowing but it’s still easy to find a few varieties of plums. And I think this is a great way to use them right at the moment.

Now I know some of you may feel some trepidation about working with yeast. It can seem like it has its own life. And it does. But it can also be easily mastered. You'll see that this recipe sets out to prove just that. And honestly, everybody has their weak spot. Some people resist working with chocolate or doughs or making a cake. I used to fear the caramel until I had to make it every day for months when I worked for a chef who used versions of it as a backnote in many desserts. It was astonishing what he could do with it. So just a couple burns and botched batches later, I slowly learned to understand how it works and it has become one of my favorite flavorings that can be used in multiple ways. Just keep your eyes and ears and nose open and you can figure out just about anything in the pastry world.

So this tart dough comes together with the snap of a finger. No scary temperature testing or wish-making. Just throw everything together and about 3 minutes later you’re done. Give it two hours to rise, layer some fruit and give it 30 minutes. Bake it and voila! A delicious little tart that is brimming with exactly the right amount of yeast, butter, vanilla, sugar, salt and of course blessed fruit. Snap!

Bench notes:
- This dough is very wet and sticky. If you have a pastry scraper, use it to scrape the dough into the prepared pan. Or a rubber spatula will work just fine.
- When it comes to finishing the tart, 1/4 C of sugar seems like an ungodly amount. But it does seem to be needed to sweeten the fruit just right.
- The tart is great with or without the sauce. If you make it, use a good fruity wine such as Zinfandel.
- The tart will keep for a couple of days.
- There are a number of ways to improvise on this. Use your imagination.

Yeasted Plum Tart
adapted from Ripe for Dessert by David Lebovitz
Serves 8

3 T whole milk
2 t (1 pkg) dry yeast (not instant)
1/4 C sugar
2 eggs @ room temperature
1 1/2 t vanilla
1 1/2 C flour
3/4 t salt
3 oz butter @ room temperature and cut into 1/2” pieces
5 medium plums (approx 1 lb), pitted and cut into 1/2” slices
1/4 C sugar

Red Wine Plum Sauce
1/2 C red wine
1 plum, cut into 1/4” pieces
1/4 C sugar
optional: 1 C raspberries or blackberries

Generously butter a 9 1/2” springform pan.

Stir together the milk and the yeast in a mixer bowl and then add in the 1/4 C sugar, eggs and vanilla. Using the paddle attachment to finish the mixing, add in the flour and salt and mix for one minute. Add butter and continue beating for another minute. Gather the dough into the prepared pan. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm space to rise for 2 hours.

Dampen your hands a bit and gently press down on the dough, spreading to cover the bottom of the pan evenly. Arrange the plum slices in a decorative way over the dough, leaving a 1/2” border all around the edges. Press the plums down firmly. Sprinkle a generous 1/4 C sugar over the entire surface and let the tart stand for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Bake the tart for 40 minutes or until the tart is lightly browned and the center feels slightly firm to the touch.

Bring the wine, plums and 1/4 C sugar to a simmer. Cook on low heat until plums are tender. Cool the mixture and puree.

Serve a slice of the warm tart with a generous helping of sauce.