Where the Boys Are

I've had a love/hate relationship with Miami since 1997 when I was employed there for one rocky year. I had an amazing time... some of the time. Day-to-day life was a trial. It took four hours to open a checking account. My cell phone worked at the intersections of Lincoln & Collins, and Alton & 63rd. There was no such thing as service. Wait, that's unfair. There was service alright: glacial. God help you if you intended a quick bite before a movie, or thought you could duck out at lunchtime and pick up the dry cleaning. But oh, the coral white beaches! The cerulean water of Biscayne Bay! The nightlife! To friends back home, I described the clubbing as "hot and cold running [heavily edited]." I was out six nights out of seven, stumbling into my bed around 4 or 5 in the morning and coaching masters rowing by 6:30AM. Oh, to be young again. By the time I left, exhausted, all I could say about Miami is that it's a great place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there. Still, returning - even now - is a homecoming of sorts.

Like always, I stayed with old friends Gregg & Jimmy, two perfect hosts and great chums from back in the day. Jimmy has retired since my last stay, so he kept me on the golf course and in pool halls as much as possible, but I did manage a couple of workouts at the gym with Gregg to maintain my girlish figure. Neither Gregg nor Jim are slouches in the kitchen, but they do like to show off their town, and so we ate out several times during my visit. Of course we hit Kingdom for their phenomenal burgers. It's a ritual I adhere to, and as always, I stumbled walked away fat & happy, and one night, drunk off my ass after the owner spied my university shirt. All the men in his family had attended my institution, and in a show of solidarity, there was never an empty beer bottle in front of me for very long. I should have paced myself.

Biscayne Boulevard had another new dining entry for review, Balans. It's a London-based chain with three restaurants now in the U.S., all in the greater Miami area. They serve a sort of World Café mix of dishes, not at all cohesive, but all competently prepared. The dining space is very open and very chic in that Miami sort of way. Think CB2 with an Indonesian bent and more expensive materials. The best thing about the restaurant was the staff. A warm greeting and lighting fast seating by the hostess, and a confident, personable waiter who remembered drink orders and possessed an encyclopedic knowledge of sports, of all things. They could have served an old boot and I would have left impressed.

The food was tasty if not particularly memorable, the one stand out being the black bean soup. An interesting blend of mild and hot spices, smooth consistency with the liquid and beans cooked to perfection. I could have had that with a bit of melon on the side as a palate cleanser for a satisfying meal.

Balans, Biscayne 6789 Biscayne Boulevard Miami, FL  33138 (305) 534 9191

Not everything was merely adequate this time around. One rainy day, we headed up to Aventura to see Inception (hated it!!!). Beforehand, we did our best imitation of Ladies Who Lunch at Café Bistro in Nordstrom. I know, who knew?!?!? Personal pizzas with thin crust. A turkey club with fresh herbs and whole turkey breast meat, not sliced processed crap. We should have eaten afterward to get the bad taste of that horrible movie out of our mouths.

Cafe Bistro at Nordstrom Aventura Aventura Mall 19507 Biscayne Boulevard Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 937-7267

On my last weekend, I convinced Gregg and Jim to head to South Beach to one of my all time favorite out door stands, La Sandwicherie. I discovered LS during my time as director of one of the rowing clubs in Miami. When I became the freshmen coach at one of the NYC universities, I would treat a few kids to lunch there daily during our winter training camps on Indian Creek. It was a hit with everyone with whom I ever shared it. The joint is about as wide as a broom closet and just a little longer than your average hallway, but the friendly French staff churns out the most amazing and delicious treats you'll ever eat. Pâté-filled baguettes, a Salade Niçoise authentic right down to the tiny bitter green olives. Their cornichons rival those found in little Provençale market stalls, and you'll want to savor the espresso coffee all afternoon. Bits of Spanish, French, German, Italian and even English make perfect eavesdropping entertainment as everyone stands or sits on barstools munching away on these marvelous creations. For me, no trip to Miami is ever complete without at least one stop at La Sandwicherie.

La Sandwicherie 229 14th Street Miami Beach, FL 33139 (305) 532-8934

As luck would have it (or not), Mac's Club Deuce is happily located right across the street from La Sandwicherie. The Deuce Bar has been featured on Anthony Bourdain's travelogue "No Reservations", and made the cut in Playboy Magazine's 2010 Best Bars list. This is a no-nonsense dive bar at one of the major poseur intersections in the world, and if you wait long enough, just about every South Florida denizen will pass through its doors. There are the earnest daytime drinkers, political wonks, the Gay Mafia, leather-clad bikers, toothless old salts, addled tweekers, A-list pop stars. Every sub-group in human culture is democratically represented at some point during operating hours. When I was a local, I could be found there dependably at least three nights a week, pre-gaming before heading to Twist, holding court on the pool table, or ordering "one for the road" after the foam party at Salvation. I've made so many overnight best friends there, I feel I should pay a membership fee. The interior is dark & dingy and the decor a rundown Art Deco Moderne. The jukebox is epic. Some of the best graffiti ever penned stares you down from over the urinals. Two-for-one Happy Hour runs from just after sunup to sundown. You'll walk in a boy and strut out a man at Club Deuce.

Mac's Club Deuce 222 14th Street Miami Beach, FL 33139 (305) 531-6200

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

The Chebeague Island Inn

The Webb Cottage clan has longed to be loyal Chebeague Island Inn devotees for ages. Over the years we've seen owners and managers come and go. There have certainly been high and lowlights during that time. The views from the covered veranda are spectacular, and there's nothing better than sipping a cocktail in one of the comfy wicker chairs, idly watching the boat traffic on Stone Wharf as the sun sets behind the New Hampshire mountains 50 miles off in the distance.  However, there was also the unfortunate, now hilarious, still-partially-frozen fish filet incident, and the nearly inedible lobster roll massacre back when Y2K was still a novelty. Still, we go back every summer with high hopes. The 130-year old Inn has great bones and loads of potential. It just wants for the right blend of moxie, vision and a solid business plan to make it a full fledged destination spot. The old girl may have found those in spades with the Prentice family. New general manager Casey with his parents Richard and Gerri bought then Inn back in January and have made great strides improving service and coming up with a smart marketing scheme. They lured hot Portland chef Justine Rowe to the island with the title of executive chef, and he's already making a mark with a seasonal menu of traditional favorites and new classics.

Miss Muffy and I stopped in on my first full day on island to nose around a bit, deliberating whether we wanted to risk another infamous meal in the dining room. Upon learning of the new owners and chef, and after perusing the menus, we made dinner reservations for a Monday later in my stay. Mondays, we were told, were Nostalgia Night, when Chef Rowe puts his own spin on family favorites.

Roasted Cornish Game Hens Roasted Shallot, Herb & Mushroom Stuffing Fingerling Potatoes, Green Beans Slow-Cooked Baby Back Ribs House Barbecue Sauce, Hand-Cut Fries, Cole Slaw Spaghetti and Meatballs Marinara Sauce Oven Roasted Pork Chops House-Made Applesauce, Sweet Potato Purée, English Peas Vegetable Alfredo Egg Noodles, Spinach, Asparagus, Roasted Corn Baked Lemon Pepper Haddock Basmati Rice, Asparagus, Chive Butter Sauce

I don't know how we pulled it off with eight very independent appetites; hell, I can't even order a proper bottle of wine for the table without some fuss, but we somehow managed to order at least one of every entrée. Nary a complaint was uttered by anyone with the first bite. I got a taste of everything and can attest to Rowe's expertise in the kitchen. Lovely, rich sauces, perfectly executed doneness on all the meats. The haddock most especially was firm and flakey and cooked right through. KT's meatballs were nice and moist with a fine outer crust to them. The meat fell off the bone on the ribs. There was also a pleasant heat in Rowe's BBQ sauce. I suspect they had a dry rub before cooking.

And my game hens! Well, you can see for yourself what I thought of those. The stuffing, with the herbs and mushrooms, was homey yet sophisticated. Even the vegetables were faultlessly blanched. Not those mercilessly boiled grayish green things negligent chefs often serve. The table raved and raved.

I don't think Management was prepared for the Monday holiday after the Fourth. Wait staff and owners alike were running around, madly accommodating the fast-filling dining room. Even Richard Prentice himself was called into service bussing tables. Personally, I like seeing that. It shows an honest desire to succeed and gives one the impression that no one is above performing even the lowliest task to keep the customer happy. In any event, we got the last three slices of poor Chef Rowe's strawberry rhubarb pie. A couple of the kids tried to lick the glazing off their plates, so I presume they liked the dessert.

As Richard cleared, I took the opportunity to introduce myself and let him know how much we enjoyed our dinner. He showered an inordinate amount of attention on us afterwards. He told us about his family, a little bit about their background, and their hopes for the business. We discovered that the Prentices and the Webbs used to live just a few houses apart from one another in New Jersey. That sealed deal. Between dessert and a final glass of Port, J-Mac schmoozed with Casey and Gerri in the lobby. Always the charmer, he had them grinning ear to ear with his enthusiastic approval of the changes in the Inn and his fervent hopes for a thriving Prentice run. I'm not entirely sure, but I think we made reservations for next year before heading back to Webb Cottage that night.

Chef Rowe also does an appetizer and cocktail service every afternoon on the porch. He calls it Sunset Landing and it's a brilliant excuse for the grown ups to get away for a couple hours.

Sunset Landing

Marinated Olives Devils on Horseback Blue Cheese Stuffed Dates Wrapped in Bacon Maine Oysters on the Half Shell Green Peppercorn Mignonette Artisanal Cheese Plate Honeycomb, Fruit Compote, Nuts, Crostini Charcuterie Plate Whole Grain Mustard, Pickled Onion, Crostini Lobster Corn Dogs Sun Dried Tomato Aioli Scallop Ceviche Grilled Baguette Duck Tenderloin Skewers Root Vegetable Slaw Bangs Island Mussels Dijon, Horseradish, White Wine, Grilled Baguette

How do you improve on cheese and bacon? Well, Chef Rowe sets up a 3-way with plump moist dates and gives it a clever name. Our hostess cooed when we ordered them. A young woman of obvious fine breeding. And they were out of this world! The nutty sweet meat of the date was heightened by the tang of the cheese and the smokiness of the bacon. They were the show stopper at our table. I could have popped them into my mouth all afternoon. We'd heard about the corn dogs, and I couldn't wait to try them. They just missed the mark though, in my opinion. The aioli was an inspired condiment, but the cornmeal dough could have used a kick with a pinch of cayenne maybe, or even just some citrus zest in the lobster meat. The ceviche was perfection, however. Just the right amount of acid from the lime, and the thin slices of scallop stood up to the "cooking" sauce. Finally, duck should never be served any other way than pan seared or roasted on the bone. I liked Rowe's idea, but our duck was a little dry, a bit bland and deprived of the crackling skin good roast duck is famous for.

Miss Muffy gets upset when I'm critical of restaurants and food, especially on Chebeague. Then again, she doesn't have a mean bone in her body. I've had to explain that I'm not being contrary, just honest, with the aim of helping to make an establishment better through constructive scrutiny. At the Inn, my criticisms are minor and don't stop me from heartily endorsing the place to all my readers.

Photo courtesy of the Chebeague Island Inn

Well, the Inn is now in good hands. The Prentices, I think, have a feel for what will ultimately work on the Island, and what might be too ambitious. They seem to be earnest and sincere innkeepers, with an eye toward satisfying their clientele. They certainly impressed me, and I look forward to going back again and again.

Chebeague Island Inn 61 South Road Chebeague Island, Maine 04017 (207) 846-5155 Open for accommodations and dining mid-May through mid-October.

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Living Large

There are no recipes in this blog post. Other than the shot above, you'll find no original photos here. I did no cooking over the Easter weekend, but I ate like a dying man. My 5-day break was a tour de force of New York City dining for me and two visiting friends, Gregg & Jimmy. Gregg's been teaching business journalism in China for the past two years, and poor Jimmy has kept the home fires burning in Miami, FLA.  The two converged here, and I played tour guide. What a time!

Barbuto 775 Washington Street @ W. 12th New York, NY (212) 924-9700

I stumbled upon Barbuto back in 2004 while bar hopping cat sitting for a writer friend who lives just around the corner. It was late spring, and I was drawn to the flung-open garage door "walls" and the sidewalk cafe feel to the place. The amazing food, wine list and service have kept me coming back ever since. So, after a couple of cocktails in Chelsea Thursday evening, I convinced G&J that the 10-minute walk to the Village would be amply rewarded.

Creamy Porcini mushroom Soup Baby Asparagus & Herbed Fava Bean Vermicelli Beef & Pork Ragu Penne Fire Roasted JW Chicken with Salsa Verde Hampshire Pork Chop with Red Cabbage & Golden Raisins Grilled Skirt Steak, Roasted Cipollini & Chilies

With several signature dishes on the menu, Barbuto still offers seasonal specialties as well. The vermicelli featured the first tender asparagus of the spring, julienned and perfectly blanched before being added to the delicate buttery sauce. We shared the other starters and every one got a forkful or two of each entree. The soup was deliciously complex but not overly rich at all. Barbuto is famous for it's wood-fired brick oven and the perfect roast chicken that comes out of it. Two write ups in the NY Times have made special note of the dish. It is wonderful. I absolutely loved the cabbage and raisins accompanying my pork chop. A brilliant twist on the apple side one usually associates with chops. Well, the oohs and ahhs made it pretty obvious that Barbuto had hit a home run with us. The hostess came by to remark that we ate like no one else in the restaurant (we swapped plates), and she just loved that. I'm sure the message got back to the chef that he had pleased at least one table.

Loeb Boathouse E 72nd Street @ Park Drive North New York, NY (212) 517-2233

The next night Gregg & Jimmy had theatre tickets for All About Me, the unfortunate Dame Edna/Michael Feinstein collaboration, so we met up early in the day at MOMA for the spectacular Monet's Water Lilies exhibit: massive, fluid canvasses whose water and plants seemed to move on ancient breezes. New surprises kept popping up as one inspected the masterful brushwork. I could have spent the entire day there, but our sweet Jimmy has a strict feeding schedule and the fine weather just begged for a midday glass of chilled white wine. And where better to take advantage of a mild spring afternoon and absorb New York City? Why, the Central Park Boathouse!

Cream of Eggplant Soup Chilled Watermelon Salad, mountain gorgonzola, celery and mint Twin Boathouse Burgers, house made tater tots, pickles & condiments Grilled Shrimp, roasted poblano grits, pancetta and celery hearts

When I moved to New York in 1999, the Boathouse was one of my first destinations. I was commanded to go there and view The Book by my old college rowing partner Whogus. The Book is a loose leaf binder of daily bird counts in the park. It is featured prominently in "Red-Tails in Love", Marie Winn's engrossing chronicle of a mating pair of Red-tail hawks in Central Park. There happens to be a very nice bar and restaurant in the boathouse overlooking the Lake. It's perfect for sipping wine and people watching. In the past few years, the kitchen and interiors have under gone a major overhaul. The dishes now befit this venerable New York institution. G&J's burgers (sliders, really) were expertly seasoned with just a hint of spice, and perfectly medium-rare. Shrimp and grits are a southern classic. Here they were jazzed up with poblano chilies, pancetta and celery hearts. Comforting. We hung around for an extra glass or two of Pinot Grigio before G&J headed down town to change for the theater. I walked through the park to the Time-Warner building and some conspicuous consumption at Williams-Sonoma and Runners World.

Freemans Freeman Alley off Rivington Street New York, NY (212) 420-0012

Freemans was one of those word of mouth discoveries. One of my rowers told me about it shortly after it opened in 2004 and we wandered around SOHO one night looking for Freeman Alley. It was worth the effort. I hadn't been back in years, but knew this was the kind of hearty meat-n-potatoes joint Jimmy was gonna love.

Grilled Sardines, fennel, treviso, citrus, crushed olives Hampshire Pork Shoulder Steak, grilled, honey-glazed asparagus Seared Filet Mignon, roasted onion, mashed potatoes, horseradish cream

When I was kid my dad would sometimes relax on Sundays watching black & white westerns on television and snacking on sardines and saltine crackers. I loved those afternoons. Freemans sardines were nothing like the canned fish we ate way back then. These were huge, and whole, and beautifully grilled. I should eat more fish. Hearty was served up in spades and our waiter paired the food expertly with an excellent Rhône wine. This is restaurant you take your dad or father-in-law to when you want to make a favorable impression. This what American cuisine ought to be all about (step aside Bobby Flay).

I love showing off my town, and Gregg and Jimmy are two of my favorite tourists. I was at their complete disposal through Sunday... And then I caught a bone-rattling cough and spent the next week in bed. Like I said, good times!

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

Sorgenfri

Despite the city's being surrounded on all sides by water, all roads in Denmark lead to Copenhagen. Denmark's capital is still its hub and gateway. I arrived by night train from Paris on a Monday morning. Whogus and his greeting party put me right to work. A tour of Pusher Street in Christiana (no photos, please) and then a forced march to the top of the gold and copper spire at Vor Frelsers Kirke (the Church of Our Savior) all before breakfast.

There is an architectural flaw with the spire at Vor Frelsers Kirke, it winds its way up counterclockwise, fatal for right-handed soldiers defending it and the city. But confident there would be no marauding hordes in our immediate future, we paid our kroner, and started the climb, all 311 feet and 400 steps. If you click the photo on the left above, you can just make out figures at the very top of the spire. The view is breathtaking. But it was rainy and cold, and slippery when wet. I couldn't wait to get back to solid ground. And what should greet me upon my return to terra firma? A frosty cold Tuborg Classic. Ahhhh...

We had come to Copenhagen instead of meeting at the summer house not because Copenhagen is the heart of Denmark, but for the archetypal Danish lunch. On the weekend, Danes will sit down to a meal lasting most of the afternoon. It is not uncommon to remain seated at the table for three hours or more. Sorgenfri (roughly pronounced song-free) is famous for its traditional fare. Danes go to great pains to eat here.

Lunch always begins with a skål  before one even thinks of ordering. Everybody raises a shot glass filled with akvavit (snaps) and meets everyone else's gaze before drinking the contents. As a sign of respect, tradition demands that you again meet everyone's gaze before setting your glass back down. I just love that and am a strict adherent of the practice here at home. Aalborg makes a whole line of snaps distilled from either grains or potatoes. Sorgenfri serves their Nordguld (Northern Gold), distilled in amber. It hints of pine and resin, and will kick your butt.

Fish is always the first course in a formal lunch. Herring, pickled or marinated, shrimp salad and fried cod. Everything is eaten on buttered coarse rye bread. Danes wash down lunch with beer and more snaps. Every skål, or toast, follows the same strict ritual. Unless just released from prison, a Dane won't be seen wolfing down his food. Each morsel is savored with lots of conversation peppering the meal.

After the fish plates are cleared and more toasts offered up, the main courses come out. Liver pâté, frikadeller (Danish meatballs), roast pork and aged cheese. The pork is always roasted with crackling - crispy, crunchy and sweet. The cheese is strong enough to get up and walk away of its own accord. Being Danish is not for the faint of heart. Finally, forks and knives slow their pace, there is a distinct silly turn to the conversation, and grins break out everywhere. You've just spent a good part of the afternoon in one attitude sampling Denmark's greatest joys: sharing her spoils.

Americans nap after stuffing themselves. Danes walk. We ended up at Tivoli, people-watching and playing arcade games. Somewhere along the way a beer garden was spied and the remainder of the day became a blur. Welcome to Denmark. Please check your liver at the door.

Sorgenfri Brolæggerstræde 8, 1211 Copenhagen, Denmark Tel. 33 11 58 80 Hours: Monday - Saturday: 11.00 - 23.00 Sunday: 12:00 to 18:00

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

The Nut Tree

But hush - Earth's valleys sweet in leisure lie; And I among them wandering up and down Will taste their berries, like the bird or fly, And of their gleanings make both feast and crown. Harvest - Edmund Blunden With a mix of unintended but welcome British artists and eclectic groups from the States, the drive to Oxfordshire can only be described as restful. Sensitive to J-Mac's mellower predilections, I selected tunes aimed to soothe but not lull him to sleep behind the wheel. Once clear of Heathrow, one enters a landscape of rolling fields bordered by woods, and trim little hamlets. Elbow, Adele, Morrissey, Billy Bragg, and Bob Mould serenaded us along our scenic way.

Arriving at Charlton-on-Otmoor, I was introduced to our hostess, Jude. She was a pure delight. She is one of those classically British women who must have nobility somewhere in the family tree. There was a casual elegance about her accompanied by that tireless wit which only a Brit possesses in any great measure. She could not have been a more welcoming host. I have a hard time of it around new people. I am petrified of doing something completely inappropriate and thus sealing my fate as the unwelcome intruder. It took all of eleven seconds (I clocked it) for Jude to make me feel completely at ease.

Over a glass of wine, Jude and J-Mac caught up. She directed questions my way and seemed genuinely interested in hearing the answers. She wanted to know all about my trip, and when the conversation got around to You Gonna Finish That?, she began to talk excitedly about our dinner plans. Up to that point, I had been expecting a quaint meal of roast beast and pudding accompanied by cool ales or a claret at the local pub. I was laughably uninformed.

From all outward appearances, The Nut Tree is simply a traditional village pub in the English countryside. And to be sure, the denizens do frequent the bar for a pint or two after a hard day in the fields. Once one enters the dining area, however, all similarities to your local watering hole end.

Along with partner Imogen Young, Chef Mike North - already a darling of Britain's hospitality industry - opened the Nut Tree in January of 2007. Raised in the area, North had always dreamed of owning the Nut Tree. In 2005, at age 25, North made headlines as one of the youngest Michelin starred chefs at the Goose in nearby Britwell Salome. Lightning struck again when, this past January, Mike and Imogen were awarded another Michelin star at the Nut Tree.

The Nut Tree Degustation Menu Ballottine of foie gras with cherries and fresh almond Grilled diver-caught scallop with lemon curd and fennel salad Pavé of Nut Tree smoked Orkney salmon with whipped horseradish cream, Avruga caviar Risotto of wild mushrooms with Parmigiano-Reggiano and summer truffle Grilled fillet of aged Oxfordshire beef with triple cooked chips, baked tomato, onion rings Roast breast of Barbary duck with sautéed Jersey Royals Pan-fried fillet of seabream with crushed Jersey Royals and confit tomatoes Raspberry soufflé with raspberry sorbet Sticky toffee pudding with caramelised apple tart and praline ice cream Bitter chocolate tart with almond milk ice cream Vanilla crème brûlée

I will dispense with all my usual histrionics when excited. Without exaggeration, the tasting we experienced at the Nut Tree was, unreservedly, the best meal I have ever had. Ever. Meats were perfectly grilled, the sauces flawless, seasonings were expertly balanced throughout. Chef North and his staff executed presentation exceptionally well. Between courses, Imogen or one of her young hostesses came to the table to make sure everything was going well. They were all effortlessly charming. At one point Imogen hefted out the Catey Award the Nut Tree had just won for Best Newcomer. The Catey is Britain's culinary equivalent to our Oscar. It's a tremendous achievement.

Finally, lingering over our port and dessert wines, Chef Mike came out to receive his well-deserved praises. We talked over top of one another like starlings, trying to out do each other in our adoration. I must admit, he took it most graciously. Imogen and Mike are Hospitality's Ideal. Mike is unassuming and wants only to find the best ingredients, and prepare them the best he can. Imogen runs the front of the house like your favorite luxury hotel. Her enthusiasm as hostess is genuine and infectious. They've both worked very hard to get where they are today. They deserve every success.

The Nut Tree Main Street, Murcott, Oxon, OX5 2RE United Kingdom 01865 331253

Dining Room Monday - Saturday Lunch 12noon - 2.30pm Dinner 7pm - 9pm Sunday Lunch 12noon - 3pm Reservations recommended

There was a trip to the city of Oxford the next day with a soggy tour of some of the colleges and lots of photos of Tudor and Edwardian architecture. There was a rather underwhelming lunch at Jamie Oliver's restaurant, Jamie's Italian (although the mushrooms and scamorza cheese appetizer was outstanding). I couldn't have ended my visit to Britain on a higher note than the Nut Tree though. It would not be possible. I too now sing the praises of England's cookery. The entire encounter was a revelation, one I'll treasure always. As they say, if you're ever in the neighborhood...

Thanks for taking the time - Blog O. Food

All photos generously provided by Judith Ghilks, with my gratitude.