No Matter What You've Heard... - My Recipe Rotation - Pasta Puttanesca

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I hope some of you share my affliction. I have a habit of falling in love with certain dishes and making them so often that more temperate souls tire of them and pray they'll be put them to rest. I get all of that, save for the "put to rest" part. I've been making Puttanesca for better than 40 years now and have yet to tire of it. As a matter of fact, just thinking of it lightens my step. Granted, I love the heady favor of capers and olives and I have never been able to resist any form of noodle, but I think this sauce is really special. Before featuring the recipe for the first time, I did some research that dispelled a lot of notions about the origins of this Neapolitan favorite. Here is what I found and originally posted.

Ladies of the evening are credited with creating this pasta dish. While that makes the origins of the dish more interesting, there's not a lot to support the claim. Pasta Puttanesca did not become popular until the 1960's. A more likely truth can probably be found in the purses of frugal Italian housewives. The sauce is made with a handful of ingredients, many of them leftovers, and by using a bit of this and a bit of that, a filling and delicious pasta could be made for pennies. I'm not completely immune to kitchen fable and romance. My favorite story regarding the origins of the dish comes from the book "Top 100 Pasta Sauces" by Diane Seed who reported, "My introduction to this famous pasta dish occurred when I overheard two elderly priest discussing the pros and cons of spaghetti alla puttanesca ("whore's spaghetti") as they deliberated over the menu in a Neapolitan restaurant. Made of ingredients found in most Italian larders, this is also known as spaghetti all buona donna - the good woman's spaghetti - which can be misleading if one is not familiar with the ironic insult "figlio d'una buona donna" - son of a good woman." Now how does that explain how this particular sauce got its name? In the 1950's Italian brothels were state owned. Italian prostitutes were, for all intent and purposes, civil servants, but they were only allowed to shop once a week and could not shop with "good" Italian housewives. Their meals were made from odds and ends and tinned goods in the kitchens of the brothels. This sauce became one of their specialties. They did not create it, but they sure made it popular. When I was working and my ravenous teens could not wait for a "real" meal, this became one of my go-to suppers. I could have it on the table in 20 minutes and quell the revolution before it gained a foothold in my kitchen. I made this at least once a month back then and it is still a favorite of mine on days when the clock runs out before my schedule does. It's perfect for a Lenten Friday supper. Here's the recipe.

Pasta Puttanesca...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
1 tablespoon freshly minced garlic
1 pound spaghetti
2 tablespoons salt
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
4 teaspoons minced anchovies (about eight fillets) or 1 heaping tablespoon anchovy paste
1 can (28-oz) diced tomatoes, drained, reserve ½ cup juice
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup black olives (kalamata) pitted and chopped coarse
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves and or basil

Directions:
1) Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Meanwhile, mix garlic with 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl; set aside. When water is boiling, add salt and the pasta; stir to separate the noodles. Cook the pasta until al dente. Drain then return pasta to pot. Add 1/4 cup reserved tomato juice and toss to coat.
2) While pasta cooks, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add garlic mixture, pepper flakes and anchovies to pan. Cook, stirring, frequently, until garlic is fragrant but not brown. Stir in tomatoes and simmer for 8 minutes.
3) Stir capers, olives, and parsley into the sauce. Pour sauce over pasta and toss to combine, adding more tomato juice to moisten if necessary. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper to taste. If desired, sprinkle an additional tablespoon of olive oil over pasta before serving. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 to 5 servings.

                    

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Neapolitan Chicken

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...What I hoped would be a relatively easy day turned out not to be. It was obvious by mid-afternoon that the elaborate meal I had planned for dinner would never make it to the table. When that happens, I usually turn to my stash of chicken recipes and pull out one that is both fast and easy to make. It had been a while since we had the Neapolitan chicken that I'm featuring tonight. The Silver Fox and I love its strong flavors, but those of you feeding young children will find this dish to be a hard sell. They will complain about the capers and the olives and they will play and pick with their chicken rather than eat it. I learned that the hard way. I do hope you will give this recipe a try. It is evocative of Naples and I know those of you who enjoy Sicilian cooking will be pleased with the results. The sauce, due to the presence of both olives and capers, is by nature salty, so please be careful when you make final adjusts to the sauce. Here is how my version of Neapolitan chicken is made.

Table for Two - Chicken Cutlets with Lemon Caper Sauce

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Rather than tell you what this dish is not, I thought I'd start my post by giving this recipe a thumbs up and telling you that this chicken dish is fast, easy, and delicious. It has the added advantage of being scaled to feed just two people and it will make a great addition to your personal Table for Two recipe collection. The original recipe, a riff on Chicken Piccata, was created by Haylie Duff for her book The Real Girls' Kitchen, and while I've made a few changes to it, it stays true to her intent. The recipe makes a really special weeknight meal and you can have dinner on the table in 30 minutes, if you give some advance thought to the sides that will accompany it. I love to serve this with pilaf, and, if you start the rice before you start the chicken, they'll both be done at approximately the same time. As you read through the recipe, you'll see I use an instant blend, or quick mixing flour, for browning the cutlets as well as thickening the sauce that is used to nap them. I learned about the flour from Julia Child who suggested it be used to get that gorgeous color we often see on chops and cutlets prepared in restaurant kitchens. You can, of course, substitute all-purpose flour for the quick blending type, but it will make for more work when you go to prepare the sauce. Instant or quick blending flour is heat treated to produce a flour that can be directly added to liquids without lumping. It is a fail safe way to make gravy and sauces and its low gluten content makes it ideal for making crepes and popovers as well. Here, I use it for browning cutlets and making a thin sauce that barely naps a spoon. Save for overcooking the chicken, not much can go wrong with this recipe. I do hope you will give it a try. Here is how the chicken is made.

Frugal Foodie Friday - Pasta Puttanesca with Cauliflower

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...This is a fabulously frugal meal that's packed with gutsy flavor. While it is inexpensive to make, it was too costly to include in the recipes I featured for the SNAP challenge, so I held on to it to share with you as a Frugal Friday feature. The recipe is straightforward and uses commonly available ingredients that come together so quickly that you can rest assured that dinner will be on the table in 30 minutes or less. This is a variation of the classic Puttanesca that I featured years ago and I think you will find that the addition of cauliflower lends a meaty texture to the bold sauce that so many enjoy. It makes a perfect meatless meal for Lent and if you enjoy bold flavors I think you'll love this pasta, though I suspect you'll need to prepare a milder tomato sauce for any children who share your table. The recipe for the newer sauce appears directly below. I've also provided a link to the original Puttanesca recipe, complete with it's history, following that. I also wanted to remind you that documentary "A Place at the Table," which features Jeff Bridges and Top Chef's Tom Colicchio, opens in select theaters today and will also now be available for download from iTunes and On Demand. I hope you'll be able to see the movie or read the companion book which you can find HERE. Now on to the recipes.

Pasta Puttanesca with Cauliflower...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy of Real Simple

Ingredients:
3/4 pound penne or some other short pasta
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small head cauliflower (about 1-1/2 pounds), cored and cut into small florets
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
grated Parmesan, for serving

Directions:
1) Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and return it to the pot.
2) Meanwhile, heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add cauliflower, salt, and black pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and their juices, olives, capers, and crushed red pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a spoon, until cauliflower is tender, 8 to 10 minutes more.
3) Toss the pasta with the sauce. Serve topped with the parsley and Parmesan. Yield: 4 servings.

Cook's Note: For classic Puttanesca flavor, add 2 to 3 chopped anchovies or a teaspoon of anchovy paste along with the garlic. They will add a delicious brininess to the finished sauce.

Classic Puttanesca -  Recipe found HERE

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Zucchini Caponata

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Classic caponata is a Sicilian dish that's made with eggplant, olives and capers. It has a unique bittersweet taste that I've grown to love and I use it the way many folks use pesto. It's not unusual to find it on my table as an appetizer or a side-dish and I've even been known to use it as a main course. The second round of our holiday meals centered on food from the Mediterranean. I selected foods that lent themselves to the grill and al fresco dining. Yesterday, I used caponata as an appetizer. Tonight, I used it as a sauce for a pasta that made a light and simple supper. I'm not terribly fond of eggplant, so I've replaced it with a variety of summer squash that is more to my liking. You'll notice that I cut my vegetables into a larger dice than is generally used in caponata. I prefer the texture of chunkier vegetables and I've found caponata prepared in this way can be served with brushetta or pasta with equally good results. I've really simplified the classic recipe and use only those ingredients that are absolutely necessary to achieve the flavor I want. There's no denying that a lot a lot of chopping is required to make this, but if you like bold flavors, I know you'll love this dish and find the effort worthwhile. Here's the recipe.

Zucchini Caponata...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped celery
2 teaspoons minced garlic
3 cups zucchini cut in 1/2-inch dice
1 cup yellow squash cut in 1/2-inch dice
1-1/2 cups chopped skinless tomato
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 to 3 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons drained capers
1/4 cup pitted halved black olives, preferably oil-cured
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

Directions:
1) Heat oil in a large heavy skillet. Add onions and celery and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in zucchini, yellow squash and tomatoes. Reduce heat and cook, covered, until vegetables are cooked, about 20 minutes.
2) Stir in tomato paste and cook, uncovered, until liquid evaporates.
3) Add sugar, salt, and pepper; stir and remove from heat. Cool slightly. Stir in capers, olives and basil. Refrigerate, covered, for 8 to 24 hours before serving. Yield: 2 cups.







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Lemon Chicken with Capers or Olives and Penne Pasta

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...This is a quick and simple recipe that's nice to have on hand when you want something hot and hearty for dinner. It was developed by Rachael Ray and my version of it closely resembles hers. I had originally intended to have a light supper tonight, but it appears that winter missed the memo regarding the arrival of spring, and, as the day turned stormy and cold, a heavier meal seemed more appropriate. So, water for pasta was put to boil, and chicken, originally intended for the grill, was chopped, and then sauteed with lemons and capers to form a light pasta sauce. This truly is a 30 minutes meal and the recipe is structured to allow you a couple of options. Lemon can be adjusted to personal taste and olives can be swapped for capers if you prefer them. While I used penne this evening, any pasta clearly will work here. Leftovers, while problematic, require special handling. The pasta absorbs the sauce, so, I add a can of mushroom soup when I reheat it. It really works quite well and day two pasta , while slightly different, is as tasty as the original meal. This is simple, hearty and a great fall back recipe. It won't appear on anyone's bucket list or be your final meal request, but it is nice to have on hand for dinner when you are very busy. Here's the recipe.

Lemon Chicken with Capers or Olives and Penne Pasta...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy of Rachael Ray

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1-1/2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1/4 cup finely chopped scallions
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup white wine or dry white vermouth
2 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup chicken broth or stock
3 tablespoons capers or coarsely chopped kalamata olives, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
12 ounces penne rigate pasta, cooked to al dente

Directions:
1) Heat a deep nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and chicken to the pan. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Brown chicken until lightly golden all over, about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove chicken from pan. Set aside.
2) Return skillet to heat. Reduce heat to medium. Add another tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter, garlic and scallions to skillet. Saute garlic and scallions 3 minutes. Add flour and cook 2 minutes. Whisk in wine and reduce liquid, about 1 minute. Whisk lemon juice and broth into sauce. Stir in capers or olives and 1/2 cup parsley. When liquid comes to a bubble, add remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter to sauce to give it a little shine. Return chicken to pan and heat through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Toss hot pasta with chicken and sauce and serve. Adjust salt and pepper, to your taste. Sprinkle with reserved 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Yield: 4 servings.

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Chicken Pasta - Tastydays
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Pasta with Chicken and Asparagus - Simply Recipes

Sicilian Pork Chops

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...If I were to tell you that I'm a practicing Catholic, Quaker, Buddhist, some believers I know would roll their eyes, shake their heads and conclude, sotto voce, "perhaps, but she's not very good at any of them." Then Mrs. S, emerging from the clouds of Christmas past, would let you know - in tones not not so sotto voce - "I did the best I could with her ." And that, too, would be true. She walked me to Catechism classes until she was sure I could make the trek alone and twice a week would sit me at her kitchen table to make sure I'd done my homework. Her four boys - young men, still living at home - always called her Ma'am, so I thought it only proper I do the same. She seemed not to mind. Before the advent of today's exhaust fans, you could pretty much tell the ethnic background of a family by the aromas coming from their kitchen. Ma'am's kitchen was decidedly Italian and when you walked through the door you were enveloped by the smell of onion, garlic and oregano. She did nothing by halves; sauce was made in ten gallon containers and potatoes were cooked five pounds at a time. As I recited my catechism, I watched her work and absorbed information and techniques that, years later, would prove to be invaluable. It was a form of osmosis. She had no clear intent to teach and I had no intent to learn, but it happened anyway. Her home, at Christmas, was a revolving door of family, friends and neighbors. As I got older she shared her secrets for candied peel, panettone, cassata and pork dishes so good they'd make you weep. Ma'am kept track of me through the years. Just before Bob and I were married I had lunch with her and as we chatted she wanted me to know, "It's a shame you're not Italian, you'd be good for Salvatore." I had to laugh. Ma'am was a true believer in equality, a champion of civil rights, but she was never able to get her arms, or for that matter her head, around the idea her boys might marry someone not Italian. Today's pork chops, part of my permanent roster for more years than I care to admit, are based on Ma'am's Sicilian recipe. These are simple to do, but planning is required. The chops need to be brined before cooking. I do hope you'll try these. They are very, very nice, even in the hands of a non-Italian cook.

Sicilian Pork Chops...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
Brine
1/4 cup kosher salt
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried sage
2 bay leaves crumbled
Pork
4 boneless pork chops, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2-inches thick
1/4 cup flour for dredging
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup dry vermouth or white wine
1/2 teaspoon chicken bouillon granules
2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed
2 tablespoon heavy cream or half-and-half
Garnish: chopped parsley or strips of lemon zest

Directions:
1) To make brine: Combine salt and sugar in a large bowl. Add 1 cup hot water and stir until sugar dissolves. Add 3 cups cold water, thyme, pepper, sage and bay leaves. Whisk to combine. Pour into a resealable zip top bag; add pork chops and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.
2) To make pork chops: Remove chops from bag and pat dry. Dredge them lightly in flour, shaking off any excess. Heat olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet. Add pork chops and cook over high heat, turning once until browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer chops to a plate. Sprinkle very lightly with salt and pepper. Set aside.
3) To cook onions: Add reserved 1 tablespoon butter and onions to pan. Cook until onion is just tender and lightly brown. Add vermouth, bouillon granules and 1/2 cup water. Boil until liquid is reduced to 1/4 cup, about 4 minutes. Stir in capers.
4) To complete pork: Return pork chops to skillet, placing them on top of onions. Reduce heat, cover pan, and simmer slowly for about 10 minutes. Turn chops and continue to cook for another 5 minutes, or until pork is firm to touch and a meat thermometer inserted in middle of chops registers 145 to 150 degrees. Transfer to a serving plate; tent with foil. Set aside.
5) To make sauce: Turn heat up to high. Add 1/4 cup water to skillet; bring to a boil. Add cream and boil to reduce liquid by about a half, or until liquid is of sauce consistency. Adjust seasoning if required. Spoon sauce over chops. Sprinkle with parsley or lemon zest strips. Yield: 4 servings.

Cook's Note: Chopped Sicilian olives may be used instead of capers.