How to do - if you don't have overlock machine @ serger

Hi.. How are you doing ladies? I am trap in my office with mountain of proposals. Sorry for keeping this blog silent. Here, I want to share with you how to make pants for Nabilah's jinbei without using overlock machine.

1) Cut the fabric as shown in the picture. You may trace the size that you want. The left curve is the part near the waist.

2) Trim a little bit on the curve (left side) and the waist. Repeat this/ trace this shape on another piece. I cut two pieces instead of four pieces like this.

3) Start sewing on the wright sides. I called this seam as 'kelim betawi' but I did come across a sewing book which they called french seam.

4) Then, turn over the piece to sew on the wrong sides.

5) This is how it looks from the edge of the pants.

6) It is done. The reason why I choose 'kelim betawi' is I want to keep the stitches last longer especially at the crotch area.

p/s; don't forget to insert the elastic band on the waist part <--no picture available

Good luck!!... let sew our own long pants from now on. Gambarre!!

How to sew - Thread button hole

Hi ladies... I would like to share a simple tip on how to sew/make thread button hole. I eager to learn the making of this type button hole when I was in standard 6. My mom taught me and I tried on my school uniform. Stitch type is called 'tali air' or the one that you can apply for stitching applique.

Then she taught how to make 'tikam belut' on the neckline (no picture). I also addicted to that and I tried on my uniform and my sister's kurung. However, I did not use my tikam belut skill anymore. My eyes are aging..(too much sewing activities?...hihi)

p/s: prepare the frame of the button hole using 4 threads (repeat two loops). Then, refer to the first picture. Good luck!!!

Kappogi - Japanese Style Apron

I joined JOM JAHIT again. I planned to sew this apron (to do list this year). It is called kappogi. You may refer to this blog for making the apron and its advantages but I make my own pattern from doll cut. I used remnant cottons of two tone colours.

1. Trace your own size. I used papa's shirt because it is a bit roomy.

2. Mark the center point by cutting the edge of the folded fabric (the neckline ones).

3. Refold/rearrange the piece. Sleeve to sleeve and body to body are facing each other.

4. Place the bulan at the marked point that was made in step 2.



5. Pin it together



6. Cut a bit bigger (extra around 2-3 cm).



7. Cut the backside.



8. Overall piece should look like this.

9. Trim the bottom part of the backside.

10. I add two pockets, piping of bias tape on the neckline, ruffles at the front and extended sleeve.

11. Finishing of the back side and the sleeve.

The front appearance should look like this.

This is the funny view because the backside is a bit shorter than the front side since I did not consider the ruffle length at the stage of cutting the piece. ... Anyway it looks ok on me and papa...

p/s; I uploaded so many pictures because I want to test my UniFi internet lines. It is super superb!!! Almost similar to Japan's broadband. Thank you TM. I hope to share more tutorials in the future.

How to cut - doll cut

I did receive a request last year on how to do a doll cut (potongan anak patung) for making this blouses. Here are the simple steps.

1. Fold your fabric and trace any size of blouse/maxi (plus 1.5 for seam allowance).

2. Mark the centre part by cutting the edge of the fabric.

3. Refold by facing the sleeve-to-sleeve on the wrong side.

4. Place the 'bulan' to cut the neck line

5. The 'bulan' should be placed like this. There are three notches on the bulan. Match the marked notch on the fabric to the third notch on the bulan (the most right ones). Cut the fabric around the bulan. Remove the bulan. Then, cut the fabric about 3.5" (on the most left side of the folded fabric)

6. Lined the neckline. To make the liner, repeat step no. 5 on the other piece of fabric and you can ommit the marked notch.

7. You may add the sleeve part if it is not long enough.

8. It is ready to be sewn

The beauty of this cut is that you don't have to worry about how to cut the shoulder and armscye parts and yet it is very comfy. This cutting is best for soft and easy-to-fall type fabric like viscose etc. I used cotton similar to this blouse.

Z=ZOOM the ZEST

Alhamdulillah.. my Z entry is finally here. I dont have so much knowledge on sewing to share. However I want to share the formula I always use for sewing blouse or maxi or jubah or kid gown. I bought this non-cotton fabric when I shop for the first time at JAKEL, Shah Alam. A 60" width of floral panel. I love the flower because it resembles sakura.

I used my cotton jubah as the refereed pattern. That jubah was tailored made. The fabric was bought from India (gift from my MIL). I love the embroidery very much and the colour too. So, you need to cut the body part accordingly plus 1.5 cm for seam allowance.

These are the important parts in order to have a comfy dress. The shoulder and armscye parts. Here is the first tip. For the front part of the body piece, the curvy of the armscye cut has to be more than the back part of the body piece.

In this picture, the one at the front is the front side of the body piece.

Then it comes to shoulder part. The front side of the body piece should be cut more steeper than the back side of the body piece.

The one at the front is the back side of the body piece.


This is the most challenging part. Normally I sketch the line according to measurement and with some instinct (agak-agak ok dan cukup keruk)



After cutting the arm piece according to the sketched line, remove or cut a little bit to get more curvy shape as in the following picture. The part that is more curvy should be the front side of the arm part.


I love this type of arm cutting (ruffle type). Just like the previous blouse that I made. It should look like this.



Follow this simple step to make the ruffle part. I only sew at the middle part of the ruffle piece. Increase the seam distanse as maximum as you can in order to get a loose seam.



Pull the thread (the bottom ones) to get this ruffle and sew it to the other arm piece as shown in the above picture. Use the same approach to get a puffy shoulder area.



This is the final stage for the arm part. My favourite knitted lace.


And it should look like this ;))))))))))


Annnndddd here you are!!!.. My new maxi. I am wearing 'her' right now... All of my friends love her very much.. wink-wink... (just to boost up my FRIDAY mood)

Oh dear.. she cannot fit on the manequin. I should put on weight then.

The challanging part is to sew the bottom part of the maxi as it is a little bit curvy. I need more practice on this part for a neat finishing. Also To write this entry in English is soooo difficult for me because I am not used to the technical term in sewing. (plus I always get tips from granny and my mom-the terms are all in Malay.. hihihi). Normally I learn from visual rather than reading. So I tend to forget most of the sewing terminology. I promise I will try to be more focus with the sewing term from now on. Happy weekend all!!!