Anna and Victoria go to tea

Look! I made a jacket (oh and another dress)!!

The jacket is the By Hand London Victoria blazer. I've not made a jacket and really needed a light jacket for the summer. This was intended to be a wearable muslin and I think it worked.

The pattern is actually really easy to put together. It is designed to be relaxed and has a LOT of ease. There is about 9" (18cm) of ease around the bust, so I decided to go down a size, which would give me about 7" of ease.

The problem I had was my old lady arms which are obviously larger than they need to be. I ended up with tight sleeves and had to let them out a wee bit. I managed to let out the seam by about 3/8" which has helped, but it's not ideal.

A couple of things I don't agree with, the patterns states that there's no need to finish the seams on the lining or shell, I've overlocked the seams to the shell and the lining has French seams. I just feel as if I've made an effort doing this. I don't like throwing things together!

The jacket doesn't have a facing, the lining is attached to the edge of the jacket and the collar is attached to that. My fabric choice means that it doesn't lay very flat. I need to steam the whatsits out of it so it will lay flatter. I might even stick a couple of catch stitches in too.

As to my fabric choice... Ha ha, well the black shell is actually an old long black concert skirt of mine which I grew out of a few years ago. I decided it was perfect to try out this pattern. There wasn't enough to cut the back piece on the fold, so I gave it a centre back seam. I don't think this detracts from the jacket at all, in fact I really like it! I think the black fabric is a kind of viscose. It does crease, I have to use a warm iron, not a hot iron to press it and erm (no I haven't done a burn test on the remains! The lining is a shot purple/blue lining fabric which I used to make a Simplicity jumper dress about a month ago (not get blogged about). So it's all made from leftovers! My kinda make.

Ha ha, this was the only photo I could find of the original skirt. This was the early 90s!

Next time, I think I'll have a play around to make the sleeves bigger and also line the sleeves. I don't really like attaching the lining to the armholes and I honestly think they would better lined. I'm not convinced by the cuffs either. They are attached with a French seam to the sleeve and personally I think my fabric has ended up making these a bit bulky. I might consider a different way another time.

Lining finished by hand to the bottom of the back and attached to the armhole

As for the dress... I really don't think this needs much more introduction. It's another Anna dress. With the V-neck front. I forgot to lengthen the bodice and it really could do with an extra half inch, but I'm quite happy with it. I have noticed though that where the boat neck version fits nicely, the v-neck bodice has a tendency to gape. Anyway, this is the 3rd time I've made the dress as a whole and the fourth time I've made the bodice up (one bodice made for my Gabrianna dress). I just love this pattern, It's great if you're feeling a bit meh and can't be bothered, as it's quick and easy to make up and is so easy to fit.

The details...

Fabric:  

Blazer - Viscose? from an old black concert skirt. Lining left over from another make, but from Fabric Warehouse

Dress - Cotton from Fabric Warehouse early November (it didn't make it to stash!)

Notions:   Thread, and a zip and some interfacing for the dress.

Pattern:  By Hand London Victoria Blazer and By Hand London Anna Dress
First worn:  Sunday to the WSBN 2nd birthday party at Martha's Pantry in Wellington, photos taken by Mel

Worn with:  Sandals from Mischief a couple of years ago.
Changes made: 
Blazer - I actually shortened the long length jacket by 3 inches (lack of fabric!) and put a centre back seam again because of a lack of fabric. I didn't put any pockets in the side seams. Otherwise no changes made and I also followed the instructions properly!
Dress - Just realigned the front pleats and shortened them to fit me better. Otherwise no changes.
Another one?
Blazer - This was always intended to be a wearable muslin, so I'm pretty tempted to. It's a really comfy jacket to wear, but next time I will possibly make the sleeves better.
Dress - I should think so, I love this pattern! Surely the fact I've made so many says something?

And I've realised I've managed to make something else in time for The Monthly Stitch challenge!

Twirly Tanias

These are so twirly, in Wellington I don't need to twirl, I just need to stand on our deck on a normal day and the twirl happens!

The February theme for The Monthly Stitch was smarty pants. Originally I'd thought to make some trousers for me, but after I made the muslin and started trying to get them to fit, I gave up on them as a bad job. Yep, no patience and now really knowing what I was doing, and the enthusiasm kinda waned. So after a little encouragement, the Twirly Tanias were born.

I had the pattern, all I needed to do was find some fabric from the stash. Thanks to Mel and Kat, the problem was so solved! ;-) And then it all started. A triplets photo shoot with Mel and Kat, which quickly morphed into a Tania's trip to the Newtown Fair last Sunday as a meet-up. So in my last post there were four wearing the same. In this post we become five!

Thanks Mel for the photo, taken by the lovely Sandra

Me, Emma, Kat, Mel and Jenna

Initially I thought I might be too old for this pattern, but it was way too cute to ignore! [I know I'm not really that old, but... you know...] I'm glad I didn't. The pattern is so easy to make up, just four pieces which make up in two shakes of a lamb's tail. The centre front and back have a pleat on each leg which completely cover up the seams and ensure the torso section of the culottes fits perfectly. For once my invisible zip went in without a hitch.

Photo from Mel

However, be warned, these are short... I was working with fabric from stash, so could only lengthen these by about 2 inches on top of the XL. I'm glad I did, honestly you don't really need to see much more of my bare legs than this! :-)

The pattern instructions were so easy to follow, but I was surprised it didn't mention anything about letting the hem drop before hemming them. I think these hung for about five days all told, then hemmed them with a narrow hem on the machine. Not that you can really tell if they are straight or not in the Wellington wind!

The wind certainly blew down at the fair, but it didn't stop us eating roti, fudge, candy floss and spending far too much on fripperies - like my collection of earrings?

And having fun taking photos of each other (these three pics all from Mel)...

Mel and I

Emma and Kat - with youngsters peaking

 Kat and Jenna

And in the distance Mel's Fashionable Younger sister joined in having been cajoled into making culottes as well. Just check out these!

Those are short, but she looks great.

And if you're wondering about the necklace, here's a link to her website, Fortune and Blame, with other amazing jewellery which she makes.

The details...

Fabric:  Purple cotton with a linen look from Arthur Toye in Wellington. Not sure when or how much it cost, but it's been in the stash at least a year.

Notions:  Thread, invisible zip and a button from stash.

Pattern:  Megan Nielson Tania Culottes

Changes:  Lengthened the culottes by about 2 inches.
First worn: To the Newtown Fair with the WSBN. I think these will be good in the winter. The fabric although quite light is a perfect colour to go with opaque tights for the winter (as long as the wind doesn't blow too much :-) )

Worn with:  New Look 6598 top (finished at the same time, yet to blog about), sandals from Overland. Like them (and my nail polish?)

Another one?  I'm quite tempted by making a long black pair which I can wear for concerts, but I think I'd have to lose some of the fullness, otherwise they would be very full!

I took some photos when I got home from the fair, unsure of what had been taken there. It was definitely windy on our deck and Mr N had great fun laughing at me...

 Note to self - circle skirts and Wellington winds don't match :-)

Blue Bleuet for Blue February

Yes, I know it's March, but this was made, worn and photographed in February.

A blue Bleuet from Deer and Doe, made for Blue February. How's that for a bit of alliteration? Not bad I thought :-)

Now I love this dress, yes I know I said that about my Daisy Anna and it possibly seems fickle, but I do, I love this dress.

I didn't have masses of fabric for this pattern, the fabric was originally bought for a blouse! I did however manage to be careful how I placed the pieces and actually the pattern does line up all the way round. I was even careful over the collar and bow. The sleeves were not quite so successful, I initally cut them both the same way! I ended up using what was left to cut out the sleeve again - the right way! The under collar is in two pieces! You can't see it!

This is called creative cutting - the sleeves aren't even in this image!

The remains of my cutting out!

As you can see there was very little left! I have to say, there's not really much to say which hasn't already been said by other numerous bloggers. I lengthened the waist length by about half an inch (a regular adjustment of mine), I also added a couple of inches to the hem. The cuffs on the sleeves are the right size for once. Often I find they are too tight for my arms. I didn't make these cuffs/bands any bigger and they fit perfectly.

I did find that the princess seam was not perfectly placed so had to adjust it so the main bust was slightly lower. This is a regular adjustment for me too.

One thing I didn't do was all the top stitching. I decided my fabric spoke for itself and so left off top stitching on the collar and cuffs. I actually did the cuffs differently. I attached the cuff on the flat, then stitched up the side seam on the sleeve before folding over and hand stitching the cuff in place on the underside.

I'd read in a couple of places that the placket wasn't the widest, so I also changed the way the placket was created. Since my fabric is quite bulky I just turned under about a quarter of an inch, then folded another inch and quarter. This actually gave me a winder placket to deal with and sew the buttonholes.

Parp, parp!

The details...

Fabric:  A stretch cotton from Arthur Toye in Palmerston North, bought July 2013 for about $40. There was 2m of 1.4m wide. It's navy blue with a kind of pale blue embossed pattern.

Notions:  Thread and buttons which came from Made on Marion here in Wellington.

Pattern:  Deer and Doe Bleuet
First worn:  At Staglands in the middle of February. I've worn it for work plenty of times since and get so many compliments!

Changes:  Lengthened the waist length by about half an inch, lengthened the dress length by about 2 inches. Slightly lowered the full bust in the princess seams. Stitched the sleeve cuffs and placket differently to the pattern.

Another one?  Mm, not sure really why I ask myself this question. I love this first bleuet I've made, but another one just may not work out as well.

Oh, you want to know where the photos were taken? Well with a pattern company called Deer and Doe, where else should we go, but Staglands! This wildlife park is in the north of the region and has birds, pigs, fish and of course deer. :-) The plan was for the WSBN to wear a Deer and Doe pattern. In the end only four of us turned up in a Deer and Doe pattern and all of us...

...made the same pattern. Yep, Jen, Kat, me and Mel, all turned up in the bleuet! We had a good day, there were five WSBN members with husbands and children in tow. We had a picnic and then toured the park. It was great fun, as well as being a hot sunny day!

We actually had one lady ask us about the pattern, she'd noticed that the dresses were all the same.

This photo taken by Mel's husband

It gave us a great place for group shots and it's always fun having photos with others, even giving us the chance to bomb individual pics...

Anna Mk II - Daisy Anna

I knew I'd have to make another Anna dress soon. And I didn't wait long to do so.

Meet "Daisy Anna"

This was real stash-busting, the fabric I bought over a year ago and it's been waiting for the perfect pattern. I reckon it's found it!

This is the slash neck mid length version of By Hand London Anna dress - if you hadn't already guessed :-) I was so excited cutting this out and trying so hard to fit all the pieces that I forgot to lengthen the bodice. It's a wee bit short in the waist, but I can certainly live with it!

Some of the skirt pieces are upside down, I can't tell, so neither can you, and if you can, shut up, cos I don't care!! :-) I so wanted to keep the gored skirt which is on the pattern. I just think it's perfect for it and didn't want to add a gathered or pleated skirt. I did have to remove some of the width from the skirt pieces too.

Skirt pattern placement

You wanna see how much was left at the end?

Yep, that's creative cutting :-)

And there was little fabric left for a hem, so this is what the hem looks like on the inside...

You like?

There's not really much else to say. This pattern is just a joy to sew, it goes together really easily and is quick to make. OK, possibly a wardrobe full of Anna dresses may get a bit too much, but only a bit you understand!

And so the details...

Fabric:  (Possibly vintage) cotton from Unearthed (a vintage shop on Cuba St, Wellington), bought on my first WSBN meet, November 2012, I think it was $25.

Notions:  Thread, a standard dress zip,interfacing and ribbon for the hem

Pattern:  By Hand London Anna
First worn:  I think for work a couple of weeks ago, worn here at Staglands with the WSBN.

Changes:  Shifted the bodice pleats to the centre slightly and sewed them about an inch shorter. Oh, and my new fave, it has a handpicked zip instead of an invisible zip. Just check this out...

I love hand sewing! Particularly when I get a result like this!

Although I first wore this to work, I didn't get photos until we went to Staglands, so here's a cutesy pic for you or two...

Now I'm not the best with any animal, but this little bunny let me hold him for ages. He was so soft and warm.

Oh and as an aside, it looks like I'll be making the GatherKits Mortmain in March. You have bossed and 44% of you voted for the Mortmain, the Vogue and Elisalex getting 27% of votes each.

Now all I need to do is to find an exposed zip which I like!

My 2013

ARGH - silly blogger, this was meant to publish over two weeks ago... The scheduler didn't work.

2013, well it was to be the year of stashbusting... that didn't happen. I got well and truly sucked in by the pretties on sale in my local fabric shops and the enabling from my lovely WSBN friends.

I did hope to make trousers for the first time, well I did make trousers, but they weren't for me, they were for Mr N, some loud trousers for him to play golf in..

Looking at my makes, I did actually learn a number of new skills.

Flat fell seams - Mr N's shirt was completely finished with flat fell seams

Hong Kong seaming - my self-drafted pencil skirt was finished with these

Sewing with knits - I finished the Cake Tiramisu and I've also made my first Renfrew (not blogged about) Yay! Feeling happier about knit fabrics now.

Fly front zip - although I don't have photos, I've learned how to stitch a fly front when I made Mr N's trousers.

Hand-picked zip - I learned how to hand pick a zip and have actually used this method twice now, the first was on my Lily Anna

Phew! I'm quite impressed with myself! I think that's all

Vital statistics of makes:
Tops, including blouses -- 4
Dresses -- 4
Skirts -- 3
Skort (not blogged about yet) -- 1
Trousers (mens) -- 1

In addition, I knitted a beret and have also made the curtains for our lounge/diner. Life itself has been pretty hectic, we've moved house and I also broke my ankle giving me an enforced sewing absence of a few weeks.

Our Wellington Sewing Bloggers Network has grown from strength to strength, we now have 26 members and it's great to have a group of local sewers I can ask for help, meet up with, compare patterns and go fabric shopping with :-)

I really am not going to think about how much fabric went in and went out of the stash. All I know is, the numbers go the wrong way!

What I have done at last, is create an extra page of makes at the top of blog. This page is still very much under construction, so please excuse the spacing, size of photos, etc. At the moment, the page starts with makes made within the life of this blog, but I'm intending to add older makes which I still have too.

I'll finish with what I consider my fave makes from 2013...

Here's to 2014!