Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Saturdays are for Funerals

A few weeks ago I got a call from my counterpart at the clinic that one of our clinic staff had passed away. I wasn't very close to Edwin, but I did see him on a daily basis and it is sad that he is no longer there. I am not sure why he died. He was a little bit older and I know he had been hospitalized for a few days back in January. I think he was prone to seizures or something, so maybe that had something to do with his death. Still it is always sad dealing with someone dying.

Botswana has a high rate of HIV/AIDS so there are many people who die. It has become such a norm for the people of this culture that every weekend there is a funeral going on. Sometimes even multiple funerals in the same village. Funerals here are a little different here than in America. With the death of Edwin at the clinic I got to experience first hand what a funeral is like here in Botswana.

When a person dies the whole village becomes involved in the death preparations, and here in Botswana there are a lot of preparations for the deceased. The body can only be buried on a Saturday. Sometimes they will bury someone on a Sunday but this is not as common. From the day the person dies until the Saturday they are buried the family and community goes into mourning. There are services held every morning and evening at the family's compound until the burial. These services are for prayer and remembrance of the person and so people can come and console the family members. Anytime one is to come to the service there are certain things you have to wear out of respect for the deceased. Women are to wear skirts or dresses and no pants. They have to cover their heads and wear a shawl or a jacket to cover their shoulders. Men are to wear nicer clothes and maker sure to wear some sort of jacket.  I attended the Wednesday evening service for Edwin. It was all in Setswana but there were some prayers said and songs sang and a few words said about Edwin by the priest.

Throughout the week before the burial many community members will come to help out the family. They will come to cook and clean for the elderly family members and just be there as support for the family who has lost a loved one.

The day before the burial, Friday, is a big day. Men in the community will go to the graveyard to help the family dig a grave for the burial. While this is going on other community members, mostly women, will come and help assist with cooking for the day. They have to prepare food to feed the men who helped with the digging and prepare bread and tea for anyone who has come to visit with the family. At some point during the day one Oxen and anywhere from 2-6 goats will be slaughtered. Friday evening there is one last memorial/mourning service. This is when the funeral parlor brings the prepared body to the family's home. Bodies are always buried and never cremated. Most people are buried in caskets. Around 10pm there will be a prayer service and it will last all night long. During the service people pray and mourn for the deceased. This goes on until the morning. During the service some women and men are off preparing food for the next day. The men will be cooking the slaughtered oxen and goats and the women will be making tea, bread, papa, samp, porridge, and vegetables.  Around 1 or 2 am people stop mourning to have some tea and bread. Then around 3am more prayers, words of encouragement and consolation are said and then the community continues with their mourning. At 5am the coffin is opened and people are allowed to go in to see the body and say any last words to the deceased. 6:30am Saturday morning there is one last service before heading to the burial grounds. Here relatives, friends and co-workers talk about the decreased and explain how he died. Although with the stigma that goes along with having HIV/AIDS most of the time the family will not say their loved one died of HIV/AIDS, they will often say they died of flu or a headache or something like that. After some speeches are made about the deceased some family members will read any messages people wrote to be buried with the casket. Then the casket is decorated with the messages and flower arrangements. Some songs are sang and more prayers are said. In most cases church members of the decreased will come dressed in robes to help run the service and the burial proceedings. Once this is done the casket will be carried to the hearse. For Edwin's funeral people from the clinic were chosen to carry the casket, which I though was interesting, because in America mostly male family members carry the casket.

Once the casket is in the hearse everyone drives very slowly, with their hazard lights on out to the burial grounds. The car transporting the priests will be first, then the hearse with the body and most direct family member (eg. Wife, mother, etc.) and then everyone else. Once at the burial grounds no one is allowed to talk. Everyone then gathers around the grave and the family members sit under a tent that has been set up. The casket is brought to the grave. Everyone first prays for the grave and then everyone begins to sing as the casket is lowered into the grave. For Edwin's funeral, there was another community members funeral going on at the same time. Their graves are dug right next to each other so there was a massive amount of people around and when the singing began is was very loud. This  was interesting to see and hear.


Most of the decorations are left on top of the coffin, but they will leave a few flower arrangements to decorate the grave at the end. Once the coffin is in the ground the priest will throw the first handful or soil followed by relatives. Then a few selected community members will shovel the rest of the soil into the ground. While all this is happening the rest of the community members will be signing songs. When the grave starts to be filled they put what is called a shade on top of the grave. This has the name of the deceased, date of birth, date of death and rest in peace on it. It is much like a tombstone, but they use this shade because they believe that they need to provide some shade for the deceased's body to keep them out of the sun. Once all the dirt is piled on top of the grave and a nice mound is made some women will but some flowers and or other things that represent something about the person who died. For example if someone was a farmer they might but a plow in the dirt mound.


After this is done everyone heads back to the family's house. The family then thanks the community for all their assistance during this time of loss. Then everyone eats the food that was prepared the day before. When it's time to eat men are served separately from the women, because they are served seswaa (pounded goat or cow meat) with tripe (goat intestines). Also the younger girls and boys are supposed to serve the elderly and men before they are allowed to get a plate for themselves.

After the funeral the family is supposed to maintain the grave by pulling and weeds and watering any plants that were planted around the grave. If a child dies their mother has to put on a black, green or blue wrap on their head for 3-6 months. If a man dies their spouse has to wear blue, black or green from head to toe for 6 months to a year. If a woman dies her spouse has to wear a jacket and a blue, black or green bandana on their upper arm for 6 months to a year.

As you can see funerals here in Botswana are a big social event where the community comes together to help out the family of the deceased. Anyone is allowed to attend a funeral. They often because a huge event because it is common for people to attend who never even knew the person or their family. I find this to be a little strange because in the US I would never go to a funeral for a person I didn't know or wasn't close to their family. On the other hand it shows how much people look out for each other here and lend a helping hand to those who truly need it.



"Although the world is full of suffering, it is full also of the overcoming of it."  Helen Keller



Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Easter Time

I have been working with the preschool a lot lately, which is always fun and tiring at the same time. The kids always brighten my day and it makes me happy that they all know my name now! Usually I go in on Fridays and help out with the physical education lessons. One week I made a bunch of different sized circles numbered 1-10 and then spaced them out different distances. The children were to hop to the different circles in order, making sure they landed on the circles. Some of them had trouble hoping with two feet, but it was so funny to watch! The kids really enjoyed it!
Some of the kids hopping

This week, because of Good Friday and Easter I wouldn't be able to help with the Phys. Ed. Lesson, due to there being no school. I decided to come in this morning and help out with their craft activity. I told the Preschool Teacher that I would have something for them to do, so she wouldn't have to plan anything. It being Easter I had them practice their coloring, cutting , and pasting skills by making Easter Lily Flowers and Baby Chicks! As the kids were busy coloring and cutting the teacher asked me why during Easter time you see chicks, eggs, and flowers. I explained to her the eggs and baby chickens represent new life, just like when Jesus brought us new life by dying on the cross and rising on the 3rd day (Easter Sunday). Then I explained the Lilly's we were making are a type of flower that blooms during this time of the year in America. I had to explain to her that in America it is spring time so all the flowers are just starting to bloom. Here in Botswana it is getting colder and winter is almost upon us, no flowers blooming. Guess I didn't think about that when I decided to have them make Easter Lilies. They really enjoyed making them though and I think their crafts turned out very nice!

The Easter Chick and Lilly we were going to make

Some of the kids working on their chicks!

The Lilies Hung on Display

The finished product
After I left the preschool today I went to the Post Office to check my mail. I was pleasantly surprised to have 2 packages. One was from my friend Bri who is teaching English in South Korea! The box was a little damaged but I think everything was intact. Thanks Bri for all that awesome stuff you sent me! The other package was from my Mom and it was full of fun Easter things! Thanks Mom!

The box (damaged) that came from South Korea




All the goodies inside! Thanks Bri!
My Easter Package
All the yummy and fun stuff inside :)

Thank you everyone for all of the love and support you have shown me over this past year! I really appreciate it!

This weekend I will be celebrating Easter with some other volunteers in Maun look for an update about that in the next week or so!

Happy Easter!

"Easter spells out beauty, the rare beauty of new life."  ~S.D. Gordon

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Updates

Besides struggling with the ever inconsistency of running water in my village I have been very busy these past few months. Every quarter us PCVs have to report back to Peace Corps Headquarters on all that we have been doing. Reports are due Thursday so as I am compiling mine I have realized how much I have been doing. Here's a list of some of the projects I am working on, plus some things I did over this quarter:

-I started an aerobics class for the teachers at the Jr. Secondary School. They want to meet three times a week, but that has yet to occur. Right now the schools are on break so we haven't had it in a few weeks, but I hope to start it up again next week. 

-I was asked by the Athletic Director in early January to help coach the sprinters at the Jr. Secondary School. He said he wasn't familiar with how to train sprinters/runners and would very much like my help. I was very excited and began racking my brain for various workouts I did when I was a Sprinter on the Track Team in High School. I was able to coach a few practices and then all of a sudden I find out the Running season is over, and now the sports teams are practicing ball sports. This meant the sprinters/runners wouldn't be practicing again until next January! Bummer! After talking to the Athletic  Director we decided to form a small running/sprinter club with a few of the athletes. This was I would be able to continue to help the students learn drills and exercises so that when next season came they would reap the benefit of all their training. I had about 10 girls and 10 boys show up for the remainder of the practices. It was a lot of fun coaching them and I am looking forward to when practices begin again next week.

-My mother sent me a few children's books in some of my recent care packages. I have been using them to read with a few of the primary school girls in my village. The 9 year old girl who lives on my compound is the one I read with the most. She loves it! Some weekends when I am hanging up my washing she will come up to me and ask if we can read later! I am very excited to instill a sense of enjoyment in reading in these girls. Plus through reading these books they are gaining better English skills which is vital to them doing well in school. I hope in the next quarter to meet more regularly with the girls and maybe even set up some incentives.

Traditional Hut
Making Leather
-The first weekend of March one of the volunteers wanted to have a get together in her village to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Peace Corps. Her village is in Kaudwane, which is near the Khutse Game Reserve right under the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, which is basically in the middle of the country. Kaudwane is literally in the middle of nowhere. It is really hard to get to and the last few hours of the trek there you have to hitch, because not many vehicles go in and out of her village. During the weekend the volunteer had activities planned to learn more about the culture of the people living in Kaudwane. The first night we got to go to the campsite of the Leopard Ecology and Conservation Research team. There they told us all about how they track the Leopards in the area and other wildlife. It was interesting and looked and sounded like they had really awesome jobs. The next morning one of the friends of the volunteer from the village gave a talk about the people of the village. Kaudwane is another settlement for the San/Bushmen/Khwe (koo) people. These are the people who were living in the ancestral lands of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. From the 1990s the government of Botswana wanted this group of people to relocate to Settlements so that they could receiver better education and medical care. Kind of like when our government forced the Native Americans into the Settlements, but Botswana handled this in a much more peaceful way. It was really interesting to hear about this part of Botswana's history, and to hear about it from someone who first hand experienced it. Later a few more of the villagers took us out on a bush walk. They showed us a traditional cattle post, different berries you could eat (and we got to try them), roots you could dig up and drink water from, and some of the crafts the locals make. It was really interesting and a great experience. Later in the evening we watched the Traditional Dance Group practice and then showed them some of our American Dances. It was a great time and a fun learning experience!
Making jewelry from ostrich shells

Teaching the villagers the Macerana
Showing us how to make leather

Getting water from a root
Riding in the back of the ambulance
 -The Privately owned farms/reserves near my village have many people living and working on them. It is very hard for these people to come into the villages whenever they are sick or need to see a doctor. The Government of Botswana is looking to set up a Mobile Clinic in a central location out of the reserves. One week I got to go with my counterpart and a few others of the clinic staff to find out how many people were actually living out there. I felt like we were census staff! It was fun getting to meet all the people and the land owners. Plus it was like we were on our own private safari will all the wildlife we saw those days!


-At the Matlhako Library the Librarian hired a few new staff members. This gave me another opportunity to teach them how to type and use the computers. It is a slow process but I go there twice a week to work with them for a few hours. Every time I go they are very eager to learn. As the weeks have gone by they are getting better and better at typing! Last week the couple that funded the building of the library came by to visit and check up on how things were going. It was really cool to meet them. They are from America and have built 7 libraries all over Botswana. During this visit they were also meeting with women in the village to talk to them about a new project they want to help fund. This project is a micro-loan committee for individual women in the village wanting to start up small businesses. It would be a great way to build up the village and for the women to start generating income. They asked me to help the committee and women through the process. At the meeting there were around 15 women who all had ideas for small businesses they wanted to start. Some of them even brought samples of things they wanted to sell. I hope in the future as this moves forward I will be able to put together some sort of business workshop for the committee and the women seeking a loan. This workshop would talk about budgeting, finances, loans, business plans etc. I think it would be beneficial for the women so that they will be able to prosper in their business.
The group meeting
She made this
She made this preschool uniform
-March is designated as Youth Against AIDS Month. Here in Botswana many villages have been having rallies and events for this. Two weekends ago our Catchment Area village of Makwate had an event and I was asked to come help out. The day started out with some speeches, drama and traditional dance group performances. After the opening ceremonies were through then stations were set up for people to go around to. There was a place to get HIV tested, a condom demonstration and info table,  a station to get your blood pressure checked, another station to get your insulin checked to see if you have diabetes, and a BMI station. I thought it was cool that this event not only focused on knowing your status but had other healthy aspects to it. I helped out at the BMI station by calculating people's BMI's and then my partner would explain to them in Setswana what it meant and how they could get into or stay in a healthy BMI range. It was nice to finally be able to use some of my knowledge from my schooling.

At the BMI station
Demonstration how to use a Female Condom
All the people lined up to get their BMI
-I am still continuing to work with the preschool in my village. This past term I was helping them to teach Phys. Ed to the kids. I tried to teach them the game Red Light, Green Light. They didn't get it the first day but they seemed to enjoy it. Recently I have been helping the owner to get some funding to expand her school. The building that the preschool is held in is not up to standards and she is risking being shut down if things are not improved. I hope to help her get some grant money so she can build a newer, bigger building that will allow her to give these kids the best early child education one can offer. With a new building the preschool will be able to take in more kids, which would be awesome for the community.
Some of the preschoolers

The building











-The other day the Out-of-School Youth Officer asked to meet with me. She was the person who wanted to open up a preschool/day care center for OVCs in the village and surrounding areas that would be free of cost. This project has kind of fell through so now she has a new project she wants me to help her with. In Machaneng, there is not much to do. This leads to youth partaking in unhealthy activities, like drinking, fighting, and having unprotected and sometimes transactional sex. What the Officer wants to do is to build a place for the youth to go to hang out that is safe a fun. After brainstorming with her for a little bit we came up with a plan of what would be ideal. A large space with a playground/activity park, sports fields, and building that has a recreational room full of games, books and other fun things, a classroom where youth can get help with their homework, do distance learning, and have a space for people to come a teach the youth various topics, and a store room. Obviously this is something that is going to take a lot of time and work to become a reality. I told her I would be happy to help her. First we need to acquire some land and then find funding to start building parts of the Youth Center. I think it would be very beneficial to the youth in the community.

Ok so as you can see I have been very busy. As time goes on I am realizing that people are starting to see that I am here in the village to help. I see now why Peace Corps has us here for 2 years. It really does take the first year for people to figure you out and understand where you can help. Now that I am coming up on the year mark I feel like all these different projects are popping up on me, whereas just a few months ago I was feeling like I wasn't doing anything and not being used. I guess I just needed to wait a little bit. I hope I will be able to finish all the projects I start and impact a few people in the village before I leave next year. 

Wednesday, March 09, 2011

Uncomfortable/Funny Cultural Differences

I have been living in Botswana now for almost 11 months. For the most part I would say I am pretty well adjusted, but I guess there are just some things I don't think I will ever get used to.  Here's some of the uncomfortable cultural difference I deal with practically everyday:

The lack of modesty when it comes to breasts here. In America, on a typical day you wouldn't see other women bare breasted for anyone and everyone to see and typically you don't see that here either. But when those babies come out in Botswana, it's no big deal here. No one seems to care or become uncomfortable, but I can't help but feel squeamish and uncomfortable.
In the past week I have had:
- a woman practically breast-feed her baby on top of me while riding the combi
-my counterpart strip off her wrap not (wearing a bra) to put a shirt on, while I was talking to her about project ideas
-many of the females in my running club (once again not wearing bras), strip out of their uniforms to change into their regular clothes in broad daylight while their male classmates are standing right by
-one of the teacher's breasts fell out of her tank-top while doing the aerobics class I teach, and did she stop to put it back in? nope she just let it bounce around for all to see
And those are just a few of the examples, I probably could list more. In all these incidences it was no big deal for the Motswana (mots-wa-na) but if this were to happen in America there could be lawsuits and indecent exposure charges. It also amazes me how most women here don't wear bras. Maybe they can't afford it or again it's just not in their culture to. I would think that would be very uncomfortable to go through the day without a bra especially if physical activity were involved, but hey weren't American women burning their bras in the 60s as a liberation/women's rights thing? I am not saying this cultural difference is a bad one, just unusual and uncomfortable for me. Before I came to Botswana I was under the impression that people were conservative and dressed modestly, I guess my definition of what is conservative and modest is very different than Botswana's, especially in the smaller villages.

It is perfectly acceptable to pick your nose and dig in your ears with your fingers or pen. You could be in a conversation with someone or at a meeting and the speaker's finger is half-way up their nose or in their ear "digging for some gold".  Then after they are done digging, they may shake your hand. I'm just glad I brought lots of hand sanitizer. It still disgusts me. What's even worse is when I have let someone borrow my pen and then they use it to pick ear wax out of their ear. Usually after that happens I don't ask for the pen back.

It is perfectly acceptable to answer your cell phone whenever you want. This includes during meetings even when you are presenting, conferences even if you’re the keynote speaker, chapel, cars, conversations with other people and pretty much anytime. You may be thinking the calls must be really important, but that is generally not the case. Most of the time I have seen people answer when they don’t even know who is calling. To be fair most people don’t have voicemail and you don’t have to pay if someone calls you. The way a cell phone works here is you pay to put airtime on your phone and you only lose airtime when you call or text someone, so if you can talk on someone else’s dime, then you gotta do it.

Women touching women. When women greet other women they know no body parts are off limit to touching. It’s common for me to have a woman say hello by touching my upper chest and then dragging her hand down my breast. One day I was walking to my house from school when a group of young girls stopped me and gabbed my breast and then said "ooh soo small" guess they were just saying hi. I've have also had women chest bump me to say hello. Women often tap each other on the butt when they walk away after a conversation. Very rarely I have also received a frontal tap in the lower pelvic region.

People drive on the opposite side of the road. I am still adjusting to this one. Maybe by the end of the two years I will be adjusted, but then will have problems when I go back to America. Haha! I find myself often being afraid we are going to get hit by a car when we pass them on the road, because I forget they drive on the opposite side, or I have almost got hit by cars multiple times because I forgot to look the "correct" way for the car to come.

Men hold hands. This isn’t the hey what’s going on let me shake your hand, then pull it into the thumb wrestling move, then shake again and let go phenomenon. This is straight out two men holding hands for a long period of time and swinging their arms while they are interlocked as if they were two lovers holding hands. It can be very awkward at times, especially since homosexuality is illegal here. I am glad I am not a guy, but then again the way women great other women here sometimes is pretty uncomfortable.

Alright so there are a few of the cultural differences that I still, after being here for basically 11 months, find to be weird and uncomfortable. Maybe it'll take me another 11 months to become comfortable with them, maybe not. Thought I would share.

"No culture can live if it attempts to be exclusive." -- Mahatma Gandhi