Showing posts with label hat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hat. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2014

Let the New Wave Begin...

There's a new wave of vintage items arriving for sale at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.  There'll be some very nice pieces coming up within the next two weeks or so for all sizes, styles, and price ranges.

Beginning this next wave strong are two beautiful hats in size 7 1/2.

First is a 1930s slightly 'fuzzy' "University Club" fedora with some gorgeous proportions: a tall, straight-sided crown with a fairly narrow yet shapely brim.  Just the way I like 'em.  This one has no issues at all.  As near perfect condition as an 80ish year old hat can get.  Feast your eyes upon this hat, which can be found for sale by clicking here.

click images to enlarge







Now that we have you drooling, check out the next contestant.  It's a 1940s Stetson homburg in black, perfect for that dinner suit you've been dying to wear but didn't because you lacked the right hat.  It's in very nice condition (for being 70ish years old) with only a couple very minor issues that won't keep you from wearing it right out of the box.  







Don't miss out on these two spectacular hats.  These kind of quality hats in this size are getting harder to find.  Get your dapper on!






Tuesday, April 23, 2013

New Hats at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.

Some new Spring arrivals at the Houndstooth Kid Haberdashery.  These hats are in a variety of styles, conditions, and sizes.  Sizes range from medium to large.



Here is a taste of what you'll find at the Haberdashery.

click images to enlarge









Friday, June 29, 2012

Necessity is the Mother of Invention

Nutella is indispensable when blocking a hat.

Friday, October 1, 2010

More Fuzzies

Two new 'velvours' for me, both purchased within roughly the last month.

This first one is from the 1920s and seen better days but definitely has a lot of life left. The liner is gone.

click images to enlarge







This Borsalino "Angora" imported into the U.S. from Italy dates from the 1930s. It's in excellent condition and even has a trolley cord. Plus is a gorgeous pinkish-gray:







And they're both my size.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Hat Etiquette in the Post-modern Age

The Wall Street Journal recently had an article discussing hat etiquette in today's world. If you think about it, guys nowadays either don't know hat etiquette at all or have an outdated view of hat etiquette. Let's face it, hat etiquette hasn't changed since the Golden Era but the rest of the world has.

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Discovering Hats, a New Generation Brims With Anxiety Over Etiquette
Old Rules Flummox Young Hipsters; 'I'm Wearing an $80 Fedora!'

By RAY A. SMITH

Hector Ramirez sort of knows, from watching old movies, that men are supposed to take off their hats when indoors. But the 19-year-old Brown University student wears fedoras in class—with jeans—anyway.

"If I'm wearing a hat and it's part of my look, I don't think I should have to take it off," he says. On a recent trip to New York, an usher at a church had to remind him to take off his fedora. "I was wearing it all day and I guess I kind of just forgot I had it on."

Inspired by designer runway shows, celebrities such as Justin Timberlake and even, in some cases, old pictures of Frank Sinatra, more young men are going mad for hats. But the hat renaissance is creating a quandary for a generation of men and boys who grew up without learning hat-wearing etiquette from their fathers. Many are making up their own rules about when and where to take them off.



The trend may be old hat to hipsters in areas like Williamsburg, Brooklyn, who started wearing fedoras, rounded derby hats and, in warmer weather, straw hats, more than two years ago. But now hats are starting to catch on among some men in suburbs, the Midwest and beyond. Gap and J. Crew say they have witnessed strong hat sales this spring and summer while department stores like Barneys New York have been expanding their assortments after years of general indifference to hats. Sales of designer-brand "blocked" hats such as fedoras and straw hats in particular "are definitely robust," says Jay Bell, a vice president at Barneys.

It's a bittersweet turn of events for hatmakers, who witnessed their business fall off a cliff in the 1960s, when legions of men abandoned wearing hats.

Many companies are no longer around to see the current revival. The number of manufacturers of fur-felt hats, wool-felt hats and hat forms in the U.S. totaled 185 in 1947, according to the Census Bureau. Now there are only three big hatmakers in the U.S. making fur-felt hats and wool-felt hats, says Jack Lambert, a former vice president of the Headwear Association.

Just 20% of hats sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S versus 90% in the 1940s, estimates Mr. Lambert, who is vice president of headwear company Dorfman Pacific.
In the 1930s, '40s, and parts of the '50s, a man wasn't considered fully dressed unless he had a hat on. But by the 1960s, hat wearing fell off, partly as a result of longer hairstyles, cars with lower roofs and resistance from some World War II vets who didn't want to wear things on their heads after wearing helmets for so long.

John F. Kennedy's habit of not wearing a hat was seen as the final blow for hat wearing.

Today, confusion over the rules of hat wearing is leading to some awkward situations.
Eric Soler of Hackensack, N.J., took offense when he tried to enter a bar in Hoboken recently with a fedora atop his head, only to be told there was a no-hat policy.
"It just floored me," says the 38-year-old. "I said 'I'm not wearing a baseball cap or a ski hat, I'm wearing an $80 fedora!' He grudgingly obliged and held the hat in his hand all night.

The fashion trend has prompted some rethinking of indoor hat etiquette at the Emily Post Institute. Spokeswoman Lizzie Post, the great-great-granddaughter of Emily Post, says it is now OK if a man is wearing a hat at a bar or nightclub as part of his style. "In that kind of situation, I'd feel cool with it," she says.

But when being introduced to someone, "that's when I'd remove the hat or maybe tilt it back a little so the brim isn't in your eyes and the person can see your face," she says. "It really comes down to people like making eye contact during an introduction and a hat can sometimes block that."

Several students at Lycee International de Los Angeles in Los Angeles started wearing pageboy hats and fedoras to school in the past year. When reminded of the school's dress code barring hats in the building, some students became defensive about why they should be allowed to keep them on.

"Responses range from complaints that their hair is messed up, that it is part of their outfit, it doesn't affect their work, et cetera…" says Sarah Davis-Weyman, an elementary English teacher at the school's Los Feliz campus. "Most of the time, the kids rush to put their hats back on for recess and lunch."

Sometimes, students are in too much of a rush. Harper Rubin recalls getting into a little "incident" with Ms. Davis-Weyman, who reprimanded him when he put on his hat in the hall as students were lining up to go outside.

"I didn't totally agree with that," says the 11-year-old, who admits he made a big deal out of it. "I know you take your hat off inside but I didn't think it went that far," he says.

Other guys base decisions on whether to remove their hats on how classy a joint is. Luis Quaresma, of San Jose, Calif., who likes wearing fedoras, says "If I'm going for fast food, I'll leave it on. If I'm having a nice sit-down dinner, I'll take it off." When out at a party or club, the 30-year-old says, "I don't take my hat off unless girls want me to take it off."

Some younger men do follow the traditional rules of indoor hat etiquette but it isn't always appreciated. "It came back crushed," recalls 30-year-old Vasabjit Banerjee, of the fedora he turned over to the coat check at a restaurant a little over a year ago.

The general decline in hat wearing led to the demise of proper hat racks in restaurants and bars. Mr. Banerjee, who lives in Bloomington, Ind., says he now puts his hats on a chair beside him or on the table when in restaurants.

link

Sunday, April 18, 2010

The 'Optimo'-l Summer Hat

The Optimo style straw hat (not to be confused with the Optimo hat works in Chicago) is considered to be a somewhat outdated style hat by many in the mainstream.

Thankfully we're not in the mainstream, here.

The unique look of the open crown with a solitary ridge running down the center of the crown is a conservative (read old fashioned) and therefore a somewhat daring (in this day and age) shape to give a hat. So its name 'Optimo' is well deserved, as I consider it the king of summer straws.


click images to enlarge


Finding a vintage Optimo straw is difficult: while popular back in the day, the fedora-style Panama hat still took first place in the hearts and on the heads of hat wearers. Seeing an Optimo straw on the head of a man meant he was a little bit of a dandy and that the rest of his attire would not disappoint.



And so, I'd never seen let alone handled a vintage Optimo. Until a couple weeks ago.

That's when I bought this beauty from the 1930s:




It's a Stetson, as are so many fine quality hats from that era. The very finely and tightly woven straw was in perfect condition and still flexible.



No stains on the thin bi-colored ribbon and bow. The ventilated sweatband in beautiful condition. Size 7 3/8.



Pristine. Rare. Not my size.





So, I sold it the same day I got it. Truthfully, it sold within 5 minutes of being offered.
And don't ask the price. Let's just say it was fair for both the seller and buyer and that both are very happy with the deal.


But one thing's for sure: if you ever see me scouring the thrift shops and antique malls, I'll still be looking for that King, the Optimo.

In my size.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Knapp-Felt

Beginning in 1929 and ending in 1930, the Crofut and Knapp hat company published a year-long series of ads, one new ad each month. Below are three original ads from the Saturday Evening Post.

Study the artwork and style wisdom of yesteryear and enjoy.







Tuesday, March 17, 2009

The Cow Milk Fedora

From the August 1941 issue of Popular Science in an article about 'Chemurgy' as a weapon for defense:

click to enlarge
Nothing else is mentioned in the article. I would have loved to see it up close and personal.


"...I'll eat my hat!"

Monday, October 27, 2008

WIW

Sunday I wore a September 1940-dated 3-piece tweed suit. It was cold and windy, so it was well-suited for the weather.

Along with this suit I wore the following:
*1930s Mallory fedora
*1930s wool tie
*modern Van Heusen "fitted" shirt
*vintage watch chain with modern Union Pacific watch
*Allen Edmond shoes


The jacket sleeves are a tad short for my
liking but I'm not too worried about them.
The nice short vest with high-waisted trousers.


Interestingly, this suit came from that famous department store in Pittsburgh: Kaufmann's.
No longer in business, Kaufmann's was well known during the
Golden Era and one of it's founders, Edgar J. Kaufmann, famously had
architect Frank Lloyd Wright design his weekend home Fallingwater, seen below.
E. J. Kaufmann also had Richard Neutra design his Desert House in 1946.
Kaufmann's department store closed in the 1990s.
This suit is an interesting and unusual piece of history that will stay in my collection and I will enjoy for many years to come, not only because of that history but also because of wonderul piece of clothing that it is.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

What I Wore Today

Trying the Bold Look today. Warm but windy.

*1940s Champ
*modern Halston 100% wool suit
*1950s(?) dacron tie
*late-1940s tie bar
*brown AE shoes

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click to enlarge

What makes this look, in my opinion, is the tie. The wide stripes and funky colors speak of the Bold Look. It's an oddity, being 100% dacron polyester and while that might turn some people off let me assure you, dacron is not your father's polyester from the 1970s. That topic is for another post.
This tie is very soft and pliable; feels like a modern silk tie and not at all like those awful ties from the disco days. The large ribbing, like the rest of the tie, is a little unusual but it's growing on me. I'm developing a fondness for this tie.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

WIW

The "what I wore" posts are getting to be special and more interesting than those in the past. That's because not only am I finding more vintage pieces but it's getting cooler out and most of those pieces are pretty heavy and warm.


*late '20s/early '30s suit
*'30s tie
*'40s Champ Homburg
*Allen Edmonds

click to enlarge

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The trousers are amazingly long, straight legged and high-waisted. The legs measure a circumference of 20" at the hem! And what drape.



click to enlarge

This suit is truly lovely. No union or maker's tags, but the styling speaks of the late-1920s or very early 1930s. Nope, they don't make 'em like this anymore.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Cool Chapeau, Man


by Joseph Epstein
09/08/2008
Volume 013, Issue 48


Earlier this summer, I was discovered to have a basal carcinoma, which sounds terrifying, but is in fact merely a precancerous sore that was easily cut away by a dermatologist. The sore was at my hairline--wasn't it William James who said of Josiah Royce that he showed "an indecent exposure of forehead?"--and was the result of too much sun. I was told to begin using sunscreen and, on sunny days, to wear a hat.

The hat I bought, at a shop too quaintly called The Things We Love, is a straw fedora, with a slender black ribbon running round its base. The brim is of normal size, and it is a fairly serious piece of goods: no Aussie Outback hat or Indiana Jones replica. An adult hat, I call it, and I wear it at an only slightly rakish angle. (Euclid, unfortunately, does not take up rakish angles, a small flaw in one of the great books in Western civilization.)

The press this hat has been bringing me all summer is noteworthy. "Nice hat," more than one passing stranger has said to me. "Cool chapeau, man," I've also heard. "Very dapper" is the most frequent comment. So far no one has called me "natty." Dapper I can live with, but natty suggests two-colored shoes and monogrammed shirts. You don't ever want to be natty--at least I don't.

The reason my hat seems to be garnering so much attention is that it is unusual today to see a man wearing a--how shall I put it?--grown-up hat in a serious way. I suspect that most people who see me approaching from the middle distance ask themselves, "Is this guy in the hat kidding or what?" As a surety of my earnestness, I do my best not to smile as I pass. When I pass people I know, I am not above tipping my hat, or before women taking it off in a sweeping gesture as if it had a plume.

John F. Kennedy is often cited as the man who killed men's hats in America, and perhaps around the world. With his thick head of hair, low-hairline division, a hat probably would not have sat well on Kennedy. One thinks of FDR as, characteristically, wearing a hat and brandishing a cigarette holder; Harry Truman--a haberdasher, after all--also comes most readily to mind behatted. But today there is no politician that one automatically thinks of in a hat.

John McCain is often shown on television walking around Iraq in a baseball hat. A mistake, this, I feel. For the candidate who is supposed to represent gravity and the wisdom of experience, a baseball cap, even one with Navy written across it, is all wrong. McCain doesn't look good in the damn thing. Barack Obama, the youth candidate, I can easily envision wearing a baseball cap backwards. The picture makes me, in one swoop, lose hope and want to fight hard against change.

The baseball cap marks a steep decline in elegant male attire. Not even baseball players look good in them--just as no Greek fisherman has ever looked good in a Greek fisherman's cap. In his baseball cap, the pitcher Randy Johnson, the Big Unit, looks like a 6′10″ geek. With his cap off, he's more than passable. Yet the baseball cap is endemic in our day, worn forward, backward, or off the side, rapper style. Anywhere you wear them, though, they don't come off.

Men of my father's generation wouldn't leave the house without their hats. In the movies, Humphrey Bogart, Robert Mitchum, James Cagney punched thugs out without removing their hats. A noir flick is unthinkable without fedoras. Hat shops were a fairly common feature in the cityscape. Many dry cleaners and shoe-shine parlors also blocked hats; blocking was a mysterious steaming process that gave new life to a man's hat.

In my thus far brief return to wearing a serious hat, I discover that doing so entails certain inconveniences. The infrastructure, as we should say today, for serious hats is no longer in place. I shall not, for example, be able to travel on an airplane with a hat, unless I sit with it in my lap through the flight, for surely there will be no room for it in the invariably crowded overhead luggage compartments. Hats also present a problem in restaurants, for the vast majority of even good restaurants no longer have a hat-check facility. Hat racks, too, are less and less common.

I intend nonetheless to persist. I have long owned a green felt fedora that I intend to bring out and wear in the autumn. I may well become known, at least in my neighborhood, as the guy in those strange old-fashioned hats. I shall instead think of myself as among the last men attempting to pass themselves off as grown-ups in America.

link

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Good article, though I don't mind being called 'natty'. Actually, I prefer it.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Plans

Within the next couple posts I'll be going into great depth as to what to look for in a vintage hat and where to find them. This comes from Stephen's comment made on May 22. It'll be load with pictures and other good stuff, so keep an eye out for that.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Real Russian

I just picked up this vintage 8-panel newsboy cap.


"Real Russian"

I hope that's not what it is made out of.

Friday, November 30, 2007

30,000 hats

Wouldn't we all like a collection like that?


Here's a neat story and video about going hat shopping. Like the reporter, I could spend all day in there.

link

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Feelin' of the Season

This morning I felt a tinge of Fall in the air, the first time this year. Sure, there's still plenty of warm weather to be had but there's no reason why we can't look forward to cooler temperatures, when the style envolope is flung wide open after the slow summer season.

Ironic that over the weekend I was lucky enough to pluck this fantastic overcoat from a somewhat local junk shop.

At first it struck me as a woman's overcoat since it could be buttoned either left-over-right or right-over-left. The fancy adjustment belt on the back and the nipped waist also made me think "female".

But, thankfully, my first impressions were wrong. It is indeed a men's overcoat and a fancy one at that. Overall it weighs 6 pounds and is just over 4 feet long. Definitely not a woman's coat.

What this reminds me of is the type of coat you would often see in those stylized 1920's clothing advertisments where men have impossibly thin waists and long, skinny legs.

And as you can see in the picture, like those old advertisments suggest, the waist is exceptionally thin! Several darts above the pockets and in the back create the thinning shape that you see. You won't see many overcoats like this one anymore. It is completely outdated, which makes it a beautiful thing.

And it was not a common man's overcoat, no, it was meant to be worn to formal occasions by someone who could afford it. The huge, deep peaked lapels convey power as does the double breasted construction. The back belt adds a bit more flare to an already stylish coat. The nipped waist shows off the wearer's athletic build. And it does all of this while keeping the owner warm on a frosty day.

What would you pay for such a coat? Probably quite a bit, especially if it fit well. However, you'll be amazed to know that I handed over a sinlge Hamilton to add this overcoat to my budding collection. This speaks volumes. Yes, there still are good deals out there just waiting to be had. And you don't have to pull your hair out dealing with Ebay.

Just frequent so-called 'junk shops' A.K.A. thrift stores. Antique shops also have good finds occasionally, though they may be overpriced. Some of the nicest things are pulled out of the deepest, darkest most dirty corners of the junkiest places. This overcoat is a testament to that. All you need is a wee bit of patience.


And, if you're wondering what I wore today here's (unfortunately) a poor quality photo. The suit is modern, 100% wool, has a beautiful blue plaid pattern and was found at a local Goodwill. The tie is vintage 1950s, shoes are Botany 500's and the hat is a vintage 1950s Royal Stetson.

So, here's to a new coming season. May you enjoy the cooler weather and the beautiful colors. Cheers from a happy camper.
Billy

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