Savory Crostadas and The Perfect Aioli

I've been baking this season's bounty into lots of delectable galettes and crostadas, i.e. free-form pies.

The tender crumb of buttery crust - recently flecked with citrus or parmesan and black pepper - perfectly cradles sweet or savory fillings. My impulse of late is almost an automatic, "oooh that would be great made into a galette!" You can see why….

One of yesterday's projects was to use the second disk of dough I'd made when prepping the tomato-olive-scape crostada, which - thank you all! - was very loved on Instagram. 

For the broccoli galette, I devised a base layer of barely-steamed waxy potato slices, mascarpone smeared over the potatoes (heavily seasoned with black pepper and garlic, grated on a microplane), and piled on top of that, delicate broccoli stems which I'd harvested while at Seven Arrows last week, where I've been making some time to help out with the huge work that is the season's planting and harvesting.

The dough itself is magic. It is made particularly pliable with the addition of a goldeny yolk egg - also thanks to Farmer Meg and her sweet, plucky free roaming hens. 

I use this dough often and modify the add-ins (citrus zest/ cheese/ herbs/ black pepper/ etc) depending on what I plan to make.

After thoroughly enjoying how folks responded upon seeing this creation, my week got even better when "proper bad-ass LA made aprons" co. Hedley and Bennett decided to share it, too. 

Which - I am reminded of an important aside - Saveur Magazine is holding their annual Blog Awards *right now* and have created a new category for Best Food Instagram. I pour my heart into Instagram every day and would very much appreciate your nomination! Here is the link to vote - you can do so as often as you like, until July 18th. -> http://lickingtheplate.com <- Best Food Instagram - yippeeee!

Okay, back to the tarts…. ;)

Made with the same parmesan-black pepper-flecked dough, this tart has a base layer of goat cheese I'd made from milk brought home from Seven Arrows' Farm, and seasoned with herbs, boursin-style.

After a good schmear of that onto the pastry (to help the crust from becoming soggy from the juicy tomatoes) I placed tomato slices on top, then studded the surface with torn olives. I had Kalamatas; use whatever you have, in the directions of something deeply savory. 

Before folding the pastry onto its contents I scattered thinly sliced garlic scapes for a little more punch, and then as I folded, sealed the pastry seams with beaten egg.

This crostada was quite easy to make once the dough had been prepped. Plan the time to make the dough, because the results are completely worth it.

Tomato, olive, garlic scape crostada

for the dough
1 1/2 cup AP flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 tsp kosher salt
2 sticks butter, cut into small cubes, freezer cold
1 pasture-raised egg
2 tbsp cider vinegar plus 4 tbsp ice water
1/4 cup Parmiggiano-Reggiano, finely grated
lots of freshly cracked black pepper

for the filling
3-5 tomatoes, depending on their size, sliced into rounds
1/4-1/3 cup goat cheese, boursin, etc.
a handful of pitted olives, torn into halves
2-3-inch segment of a garlic scape, sliced thinly
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

1 pasture-raised egg, lightly beaten, for brushing onto pastry

Stir together all dry ingredients in a large bowl - flours, salt, grated cheese, black pepper.

Using a pastry blender, cut in the butter, just until pea-sized bits remain. Add the egg and cut in to incorporate. Drizzle in vinegar-water mixture a little at a time, cutting the liquid into the dough, pausing to check and see if dough holds together when squeezed between your fingers. Use only as much as needed for the dough to come together.

Empty dough out evenly onto two large segments of cellophane. With your hands underneath, use opposite diagonal ends of the cellophane to press dough together, into a solid mass. Seal dough in cellophane, then pat into a disk. Repeat with second batch.

Refrigerate dough for at least 20 minutes to allow it to mellow. Remove it 5-10 minutes prior to rolling out. Makes two crostadas, one top+bottom crust pie, or, freeze the second disk (as I did), wrapped in cellophane and foil, then placed inside a resealable bag, for up to three months.

Unwrap dough and sandwich between two sheets of lightly floured parchment paper. Roll out into a circle, 1/4-1/8-inch thick. Transfer pastry to a sheet pan and refrigerate at any point during this process, if it becomes smeary (aka not cold enough).

Peel away the top layer of parchment and begin: leave a 1 1/2-2 inch border and slather on the goat cheese or boursin, followed by the tomato slices. Nestle olive pieces around, and then scatter surface with sliced scapes.

Season the whole thing with freshly ground pepper and a light drizzle of olive oil, then crimp the pastry over the fillings, brushing the seams with egg wash and pressing to seal. Evenly brush the pastry surface with egg wash, then chill for at least a half hour, so that it retains its shape once in the blazing hot oven.

During this time, preheat oven to 425 degrees, with oven rack positioned in the bottom third. Transfer chilled crostada to the oven and bake until cheese bubbles and crust is deeply golden, about 40 minutes. I like to check about halfway through to rotate the pastry for even browning.

When ready, use the sheet of parchment to slide finished crostada to a wire rack to cool. This delightful tart can be enjoyed hot, cold, or at room temp. Perfect for brunch, dinner, or your next picnic.

Broccoli, potato, and garlicky mascarpone galette
2 waxy potatoes, such as Yukon gold, peeled and sliced
4 oz mascarpone
2-4 cloves garlic, depending on your taste
1 handful thin broccoli stems, or 1 head broccoli, cut into thin florets
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper
good olive oil, for drizzling
buttermilk, for brushing

Use the same pastry recipe for this galette.

Lightly steam broccoli until stems turn bright green. Shock in an ice water bath. Briefly steam the potato slices, enough to soften.

Use a microplane to finely grate your preferred amount of garlic into a small bowl (or mince it with a knife and transfer). Add mascarpone, season with salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Set aside.

Roll out pastry as detailed in the tomato crostada recipe. As above, pastry should be transferred on its parchment paper onto a baking sheet once you are ready to make the galette.

Pat potato slices dry and arrange in a concentric circle leaving a 1 1/2-inch border, and slightly overlapping them as you go, as your base. Slather mascarpone onto potatoes. Drain and shake broccoli dry (or pat dry with a tea towel). Measure and cut broccoli into lengths so that when arranged onto the pastry, their florets meet in the center (or, as you like - feel free to get creative). I had enough to make two layers of broccoli; consider which stems are most attractive as you make yours and save them for the top layer.

Fold dough onto fillings, painting the seams with a little buttermilk and crimping to seal, until the galette is complete. Paint buttermilk evenly onto pastry and refrigerate for at least 1/2 hour (or freeze for 15 minutes).

For this preparation I transferred the cold galette onto my pizza steel, which I'd placed to preheat in the oven. The results worked out quite well. If you have a stone or steel, I'd recommend doing the same! Bake with similar timing/attention as for the tomato crostada.

I was extremely pleased with how this broccoli galette turned out and will definitely be making it again! If you make it too, please let me know what you think. ;)

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Another recent, vocal request has been for my aioli. I made a caper version for my Anthology column some time back, paired with aromatics-poached salmon. I referred to that recipe, minus the capers, for a recent dinner party. I served it with all manner of steamed and crunchy veg that night and was so present to my guests, I forgot to document the evening (!!).

Here is a plate of leftovers we devoured, the morning after.

And, more of the richly hued leftovers (which you could say I didn't mind having extras of), slathered onto quick & easy pan roasted fish - a seriously great recipe unto its own and included in my new book, Kid Chef. This unexpectedly delicious meal made for an incredible midday interlude.

Perfect Aioli

4 pasture-raised egg yolks

1-2 cloves garlic, finely grated on a microplane, or minced

a pinch of kosher salt

juice from half a lemon

grapeseed oil and good olive oil, to emulsify 

Rest a small mixing bowl onto a tea towel draped over a pot of similar size. This helps the bowl stay put so you can use both hands. 

Whisk together the egg yolks, salt, and garlic. Squeeze a little lemon juice and whisk again. In the thinnest stream, drizzle grapeseed oil as you whisk continuously. You'll add about 1/4 cup or so, stopping at intervals to make sure the mixture has emulsified. Keep whisking! The mixture should thicken; when ready, the aioli should appear plump. 

Add the olive oil now, again in the thinnest drizzle. Add about 1/8-1/4 cup, whisking continuously. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

Sign up for an Advance Review Copy of Kid Chef! And, St. Patrick's Day Shepherd's Pie

In case you haven't heard already, I’m thrilled to let you know I’ve written a new book! Kid Chef (on sale April 5th) is a cookbook for kids who truly love to cook, supplying them on the real information they need to get comfortable in the kitchen and make meals the entire family can be proud of. 

I confess I've been secretly excited that Kid Chef will equally provide a greater foundation for grownup cooks, too. That the book is written in a no-nonsense way, and the recipes are just real, *good food* means kids and adults alike can use the fundamentals in Kid Chef.

Now, we need readers and kids to take it for a test drive. My publisher Sonoma Press is giving away a limited number of digital advance review copies to see what parents and kids think! We want to get your feedback about the book in the form of an honest and thoughtful Amazon review to help online shoppers get to know the book through real readers. Sign up for yours here! Thank you as ever for your love and support.

Just in time for St. Patrick's Day, here is that super savory shepherds pie I teased you with on Instagram. Enjoy! 

Lamb Neck Shepherd's Pie

Serves 4

1 1/2 lbs lamb neck, finely diced*

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

3 carrots, chopped

3 celery stalks, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely grated on a microplane

most of a bottle of porter beer - I used Yuengling and it was excellent

2 cups free-range chicken stock

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1 tbsp tomato paste

1 1/2 tbsp mustard powder

2 bay leaves

1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

good olive oil

For potato topping

1 lb potatoes, peeled and cubed - I used German Butter Balls 

1 egg, lightly beaten for wash

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/3 cup buttermilk

4 tbsp butter, cubed

1 tbsp hot English or Dijon mustard

*Rotating things out of the freezer, I had a mix of both boneless and bone-in lamb neck. I diced the boneless and browned the batch with the larger chunks, and after simmering the two in the savory mixture (those lovely bones added extra body and flavor), I removed the chunks from the pot when all was ready, just long enough to cool so that I could shred the meat from the bones. Return the meat to the pot and discard the bone fragments if you have the same configuration when you make this dish. 

Pour a glug of olive oil in a heavy bottom or enameled pot, and over medium-high heat, add the vegetables. Sauté until tender, about 10 minutes, adding the garlic to the mix a few minutes in. 

Heat a cast iron skillet on medium-high. Add another good glug of olive oil once the pan is hot, swirl to coat, then add lamb in batches so as not to crowd the pan and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes a side. Add lamb to veggie mixture, pour in stout, and cook until reduced by half, 5 minutes or so. Add stock, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and herbs, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until meat is very tender, about 45 minutes. Check, cooking a little longer if needed.

Make a paste with flour and a little cold water in a small bowl, mixing until smooth. Add to lamb mixture and stir until incorporated throughout. Season with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper and transfer to an ovenproof dish, or four small casseroles, leaving 1/2-inch space from top to allow for potato mash. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Boil potatoes until fork tender, about 10 minutes. Drain, empty into a bowl and mash with a fork or potato masher. (for finer mash, press through a food mill or potato ricer) 

Add cubed butter to the still-warm mash. Pour in cream and buttermilk and mash again to thoroughly combine. Add mustard and season with s+p once again, to your taste. Spoon onto lamb mixture, covering entire surface. Brush with egg wash, place onto a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 20 minutes or so. 

Serve warm, alongside a stout or robust red wine, and good company.

Aromatic Poached Salmon with Anthology, Cal Peternell's Braised Chicken Legs with New York Times, Birmingham Magazine Sweet Potatoes

Some years, January is one of the slowest times and affords contemplation: to dream up new projects, to consider what the arc of the year will look like...

Not this year.

Which, I guess is a good thing, but I have had trouble keeping up already. There are a number of pretty fantastic projects now finished which will soon make their way out into the world. Some will debut soon, so keep your attention here and when they go live, I'll be sure to let you know.

They are gorgeous displays of beautiful, real food, articulated in new ways that I am quite proud of. Others - like the party for thirty I just single-handedly put together (from scratch!) - were huge labors of love for friends, and now poof, they're gone.

I also just completed my latest column with Anthology, which is very much in the spirit of the above: a labor of love, gorgeous displays, and completely about real food. If you're not sold by the pictures, tell me what it is they lack….

Because for me, their elemental nature - and knowing just how delicious everything tasted together - is enough to make me want to cook it all over again.

The full story and recipe is here.

These are for the plump aioli into which everything got dabbed….

The flavorful poaching liquid, which I have used for soups and to cook grains in, since. Nothing goes to waste if I can help it…

Yum. What do you think?

Another hearty, straightforward meal I produced is these chicken legs from Chez Panisse's own Cal Peternell. They were recently featured in The New York Times, and taste as superb as they look.

This soothing recipe with sweet potatoes I created for Birmingham Magazine is also out now - 

For the same month, I was asked to photograph soup dumplings at a local restaurant. They were quite good. (I love my job.)

Though spring isn't here yet and I pine for the soft breezes and warm sunlight, I am also very grateful because I have more winter incubating to do. There will be so much good work to share once spring does grace us with its presence, but let's be invigorated by the heartiness of winter foods for a little while yet.

If you wonder where does all the food go, I have a good lot of fun figuring out ways to use up all the remnants and leftovers, over on Instagram. Always a challenge to use every last bit in an interesting way (that isn't the same thing), I am constantly surprised by the new things I discover. So many happy accidents. :)

I hope you're nourishing yourselves as we roll out 2015. Every meal is an opportunity to delight your palate and soothe your bones! 

Braised Lamb Shanks, Chocolate Self-Saucing Pudding

Have I got your attention? At this point in the year - for my northern hemisphere, non-equatorial friends, at least - you are hunkering down for the bite of winter soon to approach, if it hasn't already. And with that frosty chill in mind, here are some extremely rewarding recipes to dive into and repeat often. You will certainly want to, once you have lifted fork and tasted the juiciness, the melt-in-your mouth flavors that have earned their place at your table....

And for dessert..... Because, why stop without a nibble of something sweet to send you fully on your way, warm and sated after braised and baked delights?

Braised Lamb Shanks - from Canal House Cooking

Serves 6

Good olive oil

6 lamb shanks

1 small bulb of garlic, cloves peeled

9 small onions, halved lengthwise

1 cup red wine

1 cup crushed tomatoes

2 bay leaves

6-8 cups chicken stock

2 lemons, quartered

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat a good glug of olive oil in a dutch oven or large, deep enameled cast iron pot over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with salt and freshly ground pepper. In batches, brown the shanks on all sides, about 10 minutes or so, and transfer to a platter as browned. Lightly brown the garlic and transfer to the platter with the meat. Add the onions in the pot, cut side down, and sear without turning them, until nicely browned, about 3-5 minutes. Transfer them to the platter as well.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Pour off any fat and get up any of the black bits in the bottom of the pan with a damp paper towel. Bring pot back to the flame on medium-high heat, and add the wine and bring to a boil. Stir in tomatoes. Return the shanks, garlic, onions, and any juices on the platter to the pot. Season with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. Add bay leaves and stock, then the lemons. Cover pot and transfer to oven. braise the mixture in the pot until shanks are tender, about 2 1/2 hours. 

Uncover the pot and continue to cook in the oven, until shanks are so tender the meat nearly falls off the bone and the braising liquid has reduced a bit, about 45 minutes or so. 

Serve the lamb, garlic, onions, and lemons with polenta or mashed potatoes and a black-berry, round red wine (any of these is great ~ Red Zinfandel, Malbec, Primitivo, Mourvedre).

Buttery Skin-On Mashed Potatoes

Serves 6

4 floury potatoes, like Sebago, diced

4 dense, buttery potatoes, like Yukon Gold, diced

1/2 cup heavy cream

A few good knobs of great butter (from grass fed cows is best!)

Sea salt and cracked black pepper

In a pressure cooker or in a saucepan with a wire basket, steam potatoes over boiling water until fork tender. Strain potatoes and place into a large bowl. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat cream and butter until butter has melted and cream comes just to a boil. Mash potatoes with a fork or masher, add cream-butter mixture, and season to taste. Mash to the consistency of your preference - chunky or creamy, as you like. Serve warm beside extra pats of butter.

Chocolate Self-Saucing Pudding

Serves 6

2 eggs

1 2/3 cups self-rising flour

1/3 cup dutch process cocoa powder

1/4 tsp baking powder

3/4 cup butter, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups brown sugar

1 cup full fat milk

1/2 cup Frangelico, Sherry, or Amaretto

2/3 cup dark chocolate chips or chunks

Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Using an electric mixer, beat together butter and just over half the sugar until pale and creamy, about 5 minutes. Add eggs and beat to combine. Sift flour, baking powder, and two-thirds of the cocoa powder into butter mixture, and stir to combine. Add milk and liqueur and beat until smooth. Add in chocolate pieces and stir to combine. Pour batter into a buttered 8-inch baking dish.

Add together remaining brown sugar, cocoa powder, and liqueur into a bowl and stir. Add 1 1/3 cups boiling water, whisk together, and pour mixture over pudding batter. Bake until cake has risen and a skewer inserted into cake center comes out almost clean (but not quite), about 35-40 minutes. Cool for a few minutes and serve warm. 

Springtime Food - Lamb, Ramps, Peppery Cress......

I thought I'd get out ahead of the curve and share some amazing food with you all for Easter. Ahem... right... I can say that I most certainly tested and cooked and photographed all of this in advance of said date - with you all in mind - but that numerous projects took over my days and effectively pushed the frolic and fun I so wanted to share, back...

This really isn't an excuse, but more a plea that you'll still love what I have to share, even though the story depicts tales now démodé. The saving grace is that it is still spring, and that you'll easily find all of these yummy ingredients at the market should you be driven to make any of the recipes! And I think you will.

They are that good.

Each is worth making alone, as something special to impress your sweetheart, or to eat with friends over for dinner. They are worth the effort - which thankfully in most cases - is minimal. Which leaves you free to deal with all of your other projects, ahem. ;)

Please enjoy and let me know what you think! I would love to hear your adventures with these recipes and any tweaks you've made along the way. Bon appétit...

 

Caramelized Onion & Potato Gratin

Serves 6-8

9 yukon gold potatoes, sliced thinly on a mandolin

2 yellow onions, sliced

2 shallots, sliced

1 cup gruyere cheese, grated

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

7 or so sprigs of fresh thyme

butter for baking dish

olive oil for sauteeing

sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Butter the baking dish and set aside. Sauté the onions and shallots together in a good glug of olive oil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent and aromatic (5-7 minutes). Remove from heat and add cream, stir to combine. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Layer the potatoes like shingles as you go, topping with the onion-cream mixture and then a scatter of grated cheese to cover. Season each layer with salt and pepper. Repeat fanning the potato slices for each layer, choosing a pattern which pleases you. Add the sprinkling of cayenne and nutmeg to a layer - I chose the middle of the three - and finish with the shingled potatoes on top. Press down to compact the layers and add the thyme sprigs and a final dash of s & p. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes. Check to see that it evenly browns and turn if necessary, baking for an additional 15 minutes, or until cooked through and golden on top.

Rack of Lamb Persillade - adapted from the fabulous Ina Garten

Serves 3-4

1 good-sized rack of lamb, frenched 

1 cup parsley leaves, loosely packed

2 cloves garlic, halved

2/3 cup fresh breadcrumbs

2 tbsp lemon zest

good olive oil

sea salt & freshly ground pepper

a good knob of butter, melted

Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F). Place the rack in a roasting pan, fat-side up. Rub with olive oil and season with s & p. Roast the lamb for 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, place the parsley and garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely minced. Add the bread crumbs and lemon zest, and process again until combined. Remove lamb from oven and pat parsley mixture onto the meat. Drizzle melted butter over and return to oven, roasting for an additionl 15 minutes (for rare-medium rare). Take the lamb out of the oven and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes. Slice into chops, and serve.

Shallot-Mint Sauce
1 small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked
1 shallot, peeled and trimmed
1 cup good olive oil
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 tbsp sherry vinegar
pinch sea salt

Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until well combined. Resulting flavor should be zingy and bright. Taste, and season to adjust if necessary. Transfer to a serving bowl and refrigerate extra. Serve on lamb chops (above), or steaks. Delicious as a dressing for rustic slaws.  Also great as dipping sauce for chips and flatbreads. Keep refrigerated. Good for up to 1 month.

Asparagus & Ramps with Hard-boiled Quail Eggs

Serves 6-8

2 bunches asparagus, ends trimmed

1 bunch ramps, cleaned and trimmed - you can also use spring onions if ramps are difficult to find

9 quail eggs

good olive oil

sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

for the dressing

1/3 cup good olive oil

2 tbsp sherry vinegar

sea salt

1 pinch red chili flakes

Bring a saucepan of water to boil. Meanwhile, sauté asparagus in olive oil over medium heat. Alternate covering, and searing uncovered, turning often, to achieve nicely cooked, yet bright green stalks - about 7 minutes. Add the ramps and brown for a minute or so, until they wilt. As water boils, add the quails' eggs in batches and simmer for a few minutes - no more than 4 minutes total each. Remove from water with a slotted spoon and immediately place in a bowl of cool water. Set aside. To make the dressing, whisk together all ingredients and season to taste. Adjust as necessary. Place the asparagus and ramps on a platter. Peel the quail eggs and slice lengthwise, dispersing them around the veggies. Spoon dressing over, reserving extra for the table. Can be eaten hot, cold, or room temperature. 

Whoo! If you are at all drooling now that would be appropriate. Seriously, I'd love to hear your adventures with any of the recipes. :)

In other news, art director Jenny Barnes has made a gallery of my work here. She curates collections by artists and photographers around the world, all of them quite accomplished. I feel honored to be in such company. Thanks, Jenny!

News just confirmed - I will be teaching a workshop on food styling and photography, this October, with the Academy of Nutrition & Dietetics! I'm over the moon with this.....to be able to share my knowledge and perspective with budding bloggers and photographers?? It really doesn't get any better! Look for me at the 2012 Food and Nutrition Conference and Expo, in Philadelphia. More on that soon....

And lastly, remember that there are three short days left to vote for my blog for Best Single Food Photo over at Saveur. Thank you all very much who have already registered your support and told your friends and loved ones! Even having placed as a finalist - after the editors at Saveur reviewed close to 40,000 submissions - is a wonderful accomplishment.  I hope you adore my work as much as I love creating it! Until soon. :-)

Getting to the Root

Eat from the earth. Literally. We have arrived upon the season where bounty has grown ripe deep in the dirt, and is ready to bring to the table. These roots in their many shapes and colors, dense and  heavy, are some of the greatest eating around. This is a story of  L-O-V-E. There's more, too. Like the great things I did with the stuff Gilt Taste sent me a couple weeks ago: Becker Lane's gorgeous pastured pork shoulder, and BliS bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup, which is every bit as dynamic as it sounds. Savory, sweet, hearty, and all of it comfort food.