Tuesday, December 24, 2019

A Range Recipe for Christmas Eve

I've thoroughly enjoyed the Patrick O'Brian nautical historical series, starting with Master and Commander and continuing on. Some of you may remember this from one of my later favorites - The Hundred Days.

"I am very sorry for the pandemonium, Stephen, he said, at last, as they sat down to their breakfast, brought in by a now silent, timid Killick. "All this mad rushing up and down, bellowing like Gadarene swine". The breakfast itself was adequate with quantifies of fresh eggs, sausages, bacon, a noble pork pie, rolls and toast, cream for their coffee, but there was little to be said for it as a fleshly indulgence since every other bite was interrupted by a message from one ship or another, often delivered by midshipmen, washed, brushed and extremely nervous, presenting their captains compliments.

I've been on the go all year it seems  Travel back and forth to Dad's as his house was cleared out and sold after he went into assisted living as well as professional obligations.  It's been good when I could get home for a handcrafted meal, a chat with a friend on the phone and a decent night's sleep.  So it didn't take much more than a mention of this breakfast repast in the book to get me thinking about creating something of the pastry/meat variety.

Meat pies are part of almost every culture.  In the US, outside of the "pot pie" they are not really popular in U.S. cuisine, with the exception of the Natchitoches meat pie which is one of the official state foods of Louisiana.  The Cornish Pasty, found in the Upper Peninsula of the U.S. where mining is still a good industry has its origins in another land.   In Latin American empanadas may be pies or sometimes pastries, baked or fried and are popular in the Southwest U.S. as well. Steak and kidney pie and pork pies are seen in both England.

In Australia and New Zealand, the meat pie is a common convenience food found in gas stations and convenience stores.  

But for this holiday, something Canadian in origin and my personal favorite.  From Quebec. Tourtiere is typically made and served on Chrismas Eve (though it's tasty ANY part of the winter) the recipe passed down from generation to generation. I'm proudly American but I also have family from Montreal. I'm a sucker for most Canadian Cuisine as well as the Halifax Donier, and will not turn down a fresh beavertail with my coffee if offered.   

But this is a dish worth making when you have the time.  It's delicious in any culture, and "mmmm" sounds pretty much the same wherever you are. No, this isn't a typical tourtiere, but my own adaption.  The recipes vary from family to family and city to cities, many with all pork, some, from Quebec city, with more game meats. There is good-natured rivalry for who has the best recipe that exceeds any seen at a Hockey game.  This may not be the best, but it is my favorite. 
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 lb ground pork, beef, and veal
  • 1-1/2 cups beef stock
  • 2 T. bacon fat
  • 3 onions chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 cup finely chopped celery
  • a generous handful of chopped fresh mushrooms
  • 3/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp pepper
  • 1/2 tsp dried summer savory
  • 1/4 tsp cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
  • tiny pinch of red pepper flakes
  • 2 teaspoons of cognac
  • a pinch of maple sugar
  • 1 cup chopped fresh bread crumbs
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • Pastry for double-crust pie 
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 tsp water
  • a pinch of maple sugar (optional)
Cook meat in a heavy pan of French oven over medium heat in oil, breaking up with a spoon until it is no longer bright pink in center.  Do not brown, as it will cook further in stock.  Drain off the fat and set meat aside but do not rinse the meat.  In a couple of tablespoons of bacon fat, cook onions until starting to soften, add in celery and dried spices, stir over medium for a couple of minutes, adding the mushrooms at the last minute. Then add the meat back in with the stock, cooking on low to medium-low for 40 minutes until you have about 2 Tablespoons of liquid remaining.  Remove from heat, add cognac, and stir in bread crumbs and fresh parsley. Cover and put in the fridge for at least a day (trust me, it gets better as it sits).  Make a double-crust pie, making the bottom crust about 1/8 inch thickness.  Place in pan, spoon in filling, smoothing the top and top with remaining pastry pressing edges together and sealing.  Combine egg, maple sugar water and brush over top, making small steam vents in the top with a small knife.  Bake at 375  for 45-50 minutes until golden brown.  Leftovers are as good cold as they are hot and make a great lunch.

Easy perfect pie crust. (from the folks at Moody's Butcher Shop)  Makes 3 crusts, two for a pie, one for a quiche.
  • 3 cups of flour
  • 1 cup of rendered lard (if you've not tried, get thee to a butcher shop)
  • 1 egg
  • 1 Tablespoon of vinegar
  • 5 Tablespoons of water
  • 1 teaspoon of salt
Cut the flour and lard together. Beat egg in a cup and add the vinegar, water, and salt. Add to the flour mixture. May need a little more water to make a nice ball. Roll it out. Makes about 3 crusts. Bake at 350 degrees until done.

3 comments:

  1. Ah yes, meat pies... The Aussie ones are good, as are the Pasties in England, but the winner is the Empanadas!!!

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  2. So many memories...walking to midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at 25 below zero with my fiancee and her family, then coming home to her parent's and playing cards till the wee hours.

    Then came the tourtiere-cooked in a wood stove oven and re-heated in the same.

    Mother in law used a mix of moose meat and breakfast sausage, casing removed and crumbled with the moose. (What else can you do with ground moose?)

    Every family has a different recipe, and all are winners.

    What marvellous memories!

    Thanks for posting this. Yummy, in any language.

    Might be a good idea to explain to your readers that the beavertail you eat with coffee did not involve the death of any wild animal-though beaver kittens roasted in red wine sauce are among the world's treats.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Gonna try this. Timely given the weather.

    ReplyDelete

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