PLPS & PAL FINISH!

{all prior Pouch Along links can be found here}

A two in one finish!  I had intended to post this pouch on Friday to complete our Pouch Along week...but instead I decided why not share it on Sew Modern Monday instead?

As my regular readers know I signed up for the Pretty Little Pouch Swap this round and was delighted when I was accepted to join!  If you've read over the last month or then you know I have tried a few different pouch designs with different fabrics and shapes.  While stalking my partner and scrutinizing the description of her pouch request I kept going back and forth about my final design.  But here it is!!!
I ultimately went with the beloved combo of natural linen (Kaufman Essex - amazing stuff!!!) and Echino prints.  I wanted something simple but still unique.  So instead of just going with a flat front I tried playing around with adding in a front pocket.  

And I couldn't resist an Echino selvage detail in the back!!!

I still hope to continue adding to and improving the Frame Pouch Along.  So if you are interested in providing your design tips or learning from scratch do join in and visit the Flickr group!

Linking up to Sew Modern Monday.  Check out everyone's modern finishes...

- rebecca lynne

Gluing the Frame Pouch

{all prior Pouch Along links can be found here}

I know that for many of you the gluing aspects of creating a frame pouch is the most daunting part.  In fact, it was the questions about this part of the frame pouch process that motivated me to do a PAL in the first place.  So...let's do it.  

What you will need is some appropriate glue which I discussed in the materials post of the PAL.  You will also need a flathead screwdriver or a thick needle like a yarn needle or any tool you can find that will fit within the rim of the frame.

Ready???  Heh heh...I am going to do my best to really break this down.

First flip your frame upside down and hold it with one hand.  Next take your glue and carefully guide it inside on ONE SIDE ONLY.  Remember, gravity is your friend so keep your frame upside down.  You can place the frame on a protected surface if you'd like your hands free.  

Tip: Read the instructions for your glue!  Most glues say that they are the most adhesive after one minute or so...what does that mean for you?  Wait a minute before you start placing your fabric inside!  It can be hard, and takes real self-restraint, but believe me it is worth waiting to get it correct the first time.  If you need to make yourself walk away while you wait.

Here is a close up shot of my glue.  Can you see it glistening?  What you can't see in these photos is that your glue will likely be goopy, frustratingly slow in spreading, and stringy.  Have a piece of scrap fabric or interfacing to place your glue container down or else you might get flustered and goop it all over your workstation.  Your ultimate goal is to AVOID GETTING GLUE ON YOUR POUCH FABRIC.  Just accept that glue is probably going to get on something you don't want...but better it be the metal frame than the fabric.  When the glue dries it can easily be rubbed or scraped off the metal with a finger nail...but it is much worse on the fabric.  So that should be your overall achievement --> no glue on your fabric!  

After you've patiently waited the allotted time you will want to start feeding your fabric into the frame.  Now STOP!  Remember, your frame is upside down...so your fabric should be as well!  Believe me, it is easy to attach the wrong side to the wrong frame side so double check before any fabric hits the glue.

While holding the frame AND the fabric upside down, I line up my corners with the corners of the frame.  Then I start sliding in one side.  The way to describe it is as a pinch on the fabric while pulling down and inside the frame.  I keep a hold of the first side I have fed into the frame while working my way around the frame.  This will take two hands.  {obviously this is why I have no photo of it, heh heh}

As you can see in the photo below, I have worked my way around the frame and slid the fabric in all the way around being sure to line up the corners with the frame corners.  Oh and in case you didn't realize I am still working upside down!!!  Gravity is your friend.

Now to be sure that your fabric is fed all the way in and is securely inside you will now use your screwdriver, fat needle, or whatever other tool to fit inside the frame.  Be forewarned, the glue is still extremely dangerous now and if you push too hard with a screwdriver then you may ooze the glue out so watch out.  The glue comes out on both sides so be sure to flip your piece to the other side and check that your fabric is "safe" from glue ooze.

And, as I said, inevitably glue will ooze.  Make sure it happens on your frame!!!  When it does DO NOT TOUCH IT.  I know it is hard, it kills me not to mess with it as soon as it happens but trust me, it will be easier to deal with when it dries.  The more you fiddle with it now the more ooze and possible fabric contamination can arise!  Be patient...just let it go and deal with it later.

Again, I will remind you to check both sides of the pouch.  All the fabric that need be is inside?  No gaps?  No glue ooze on the fabric?  Looking good?  Remember, you can use your tool to be sure that the fabric is in there, just watch for glue ooze although this will decrease as time goes on and the glue dries more.

Wow.  This is really all about patience.  Because now I am going to tell you that once you have one side intact you must wait.  Well...must is strong.  You should wait.  Let the glue set so that there is no danger of the fabric sliding while you do the opposite side.  Again, I know it is hard but you can do it!  I would say to wait a few hours, but who am I kidding?  I waited about 5 minutes and then couldn't wait to get the other side done.  After all...you are almost there!  While you wait lay your pouch down in a way that gravity can help.  

You still with me?  Almost there...soooo close!

As you can see here I've rested my frame down.  Now that it is a bit drier the glued portion is the top in this photo below.  I now need to add glue into the frame portion below.  Again, working with gravity.

The trick?  Mmmm...oh only making sure the unattached fabric doesn't get glue goop on it as you fill the frame.  Yeah, none so fun but totally doable!  I literally held the frame in my left hand and kept a few fingers spread wide to hold back the fabric while I used my right hand to drip glue inside the frame.  

Don't forget.  WAIT!  At least one minute or whatever the instructions recommend for ultimate adhesion.  I rested my frame against the table and waited.  

When the minute ended I picked up the frame in one hand, as you can see below, and working from behind the frame I guided the fabric inside the frame from the back.  It sounds complicated but it isn't.  And working with the frame upside down again you can really see where the fabric is going.  

Just as before I lined up my corners and worked the fabric inside all the way around.  Use your tool as needed and check for ooze!  Remember to flip your piece over and check both sides.

When you are done with that?  You are done!  Now, all you need to do is wait.  Hahahaha again!  This time to make the glue dry completely.  It is frustrating but do it.  Last night I wanted to take photos of mine and started to shut the frame with whoops! the fabric slipped out of the frame on the last glued side.  Agh!  Take it from me...waiting is worth it.  And, again, use gravity and if you can let your pouch dry upside down.  Wink!

Frames Requiring Hand Sewing

For those of you with the hand sewing type of frame don't worry I haven't forgotten about you!  In fact, I'd like the opportunity to make my own hand sewn frame and write up a tute of my own.  But, because I don't want to hold you back I am leaving you with this link to an Everything Mary tutorial on how to attach your frame.  

Don't forget to hook up and into our Flickr Group!  We have some awesome photos being shared so far.  Go check it out and cheer on your friends...

- rebecca lynne

Troubleshooting PAL Design

{all prior Pouch Along links can be found here}

So...hopefully by this point you have gotten along a bit in your design and creation of your pouch.  If not, no worries, this post can still be helpful!

I thought about it and decided I should do a "troubleshooting" post to kind of highlight some things that you might want to consider tweaking along the way.

Angles
Alright so a few of you have asked about angles.  So let's look at their purpose.  The angles are really to give your pouch design that pinched look.  When the design of the pouch goes IN at the hinges?  As I see it...the waist of the pouch.

Like so:

source

Does that mean you have to have them?  Absolutely not!  If you'd like your pouch to be straighter at the sides then by all means have your angles echo the shape of the frame and voila it will appear straight down and continue the shape of the frame when you sew it all up.

Like so:

source

Overall?  The wider your angles the more of a waist you are going to give your pouch.  It is up to you how Jessica Rabbit you want to go!

Length
When I advised you about creating your template I suggested making the body of your template larger as opposed to smaller.  I wrote that you would be able to make it smaller...but not necessarily add fabric!

So what happened to that advice?  Well, my apologies, I didn't need to alter my design and therefore didn't have a chance to show you how to alter yours.

Let's say you go through the step of sewing your exterior and interior templates.  You put them together...and when you imagine or hold up your frame to them you think oh my, my pouch body is out of proportion for my frame!  No problem...you would do what you would do when altering any piece of clothing...flip your pieces inside out to reveal the seams and draw new ones.  You can start by basting it and altering your design bit by bit (maybe 1/2" at a time?) until you have a successful shape!

Of course the trick to doing this is to make sure however you alter your shape don't change the non-negotiable section and be sure to remember that your frame will take up some of the top so take that into account when designing!

That is all I can think of at the moment.  But, let me know if you have any questions and we can happily brainstorm!

- rebecca lynne

Frame Pouch Cutting and Sewing

{all prior Pouch Along links can be found here}
Before we go any further I wanted to share the Frame Pouch Along Flickr Group.  The suggestion came from Annabella of Life's Rich Pattern.  I had hesitated because well, there is probably a tiny group of us doing the PAL right now and I didn't want to feel foolish.  But, then I thought about it, and decided who cares?!  We can at least share our fabric choices, template questions, and other ideas or design choices we are making.  Plus, we can always go back and help other people along the way that may decide to jump into the PAL at a later date.  So...please go to the Flickr Page and post your questions, thoughts, ideas!  I can't wait to see what you guys are creating!
Alright back to cutting and sewing.  For those of you who might have missed my earlier post...you should use your template to cut the following:



- 2 of the interfacing you will use with your outside fabric (I use fleece interfacing)- 2 of your outer fabric- 2 of your lining fabric- 2 of the lining for your interfacing (optional, I will not use interfacing for my lining as I believe it is makes the pouch too thick, this will depend on your preference and type of fabric - i.e. voile you should probably use interfacing)
Let me expand on what I mean in regards to the optional interfacing for the lining.  I am using a linen/cotton blend for both my lining and exterior fabric.  When I have used this combo before I did not like the way the interfacing stiffened the lining.  Personally, it didn't seem like a proper lining then because it had an inflexible shape.  This time I have chosen to exclude it.  Whether to use it or not is totally up to you. BUT, if you choose to use interfacing for the lining it should be a lighter weight interfacing than the interfacing of the exterior. 
Pouch DesignIf there is piecing, embroidery, or pockets you'd like to add to your pouch now is probably the time to do it!  Especially inner pockets...you should add them now, measuring their placement on your pattern.  Keep in mind that the frame and seams will take away from the overall amount of space you will have in the completed pouch.  As you can see in my design I chose to include a pocket and a selvage...
  
Cutting the Interfacing CheatI am always looking for ways to make the process more efficient...haha yes, a cheat.  So this is what I do when using iron-on interfacing.  I am not a huge lover of cutting pattern templates by hand so I found a way around it by doing the following...
I place the wrong side of the fabric against the grainy/pebbly side of the interfacing.  Using my iron I press the fabric onto the interfacing and when there is a bit of adhesion I flip the whole thing over.   

Once the pieces are flipped over I continue ironing.  Why the flip?  Because I don't want to ruin my iron by heating up the adhesion against it.  

When the pieces are adhered to the interfacing I cut them out!

Voila.  Interfacing done.  And your pieces match perfectly.

Sewing

Place the Exterior sides together with the Right Sides Facing each other. (wow my hand looks fat in this picture doesn't it???  what is up with that?)

Now we only want to sew the body of the pieces together.  Meaning, the Non-negotiable Section I pointed out earlier is going to be important here.  I find that the best way to get it right is to take my template and line it up and mark where the non-negotiable section ends.  You can use pen, I prefer using pins.

The pins below mark where the non-negotiable section ends.  We will only be sewing from one pin to the next.  Remember to use 1/4" seams.

Sew from pin to pin.  The BOTTOM part...remember to leave the opening where the non-negotiable section is open.  

Repeat this same step with your lining!

Creating a Squared Bottom

If you aren't going to have a square bottom you can move onto the next section.  Otherwise, follow me...

To create a squared bottom you are going to pinch the bottom corners of your sewn pouch together.  Let me be clearer.  Pinch the Side Seam to the Bottom Seam.  So you will do two times, once for each corner.  

Holding the pinch in your hand pick up the pouch and look inside.  You can feel between your finger and thumb whether your seams are lined up...but it is also good to check yourself visually.  Make sure the seams are lined up before you pin.

When you are happy that things are lined up lay your corner down flat against the table and measure.  You can use whatever width you'd like.  I am choosing 1.25" across for my bottom.  

Draw a line (in my case it measures 1.25") and then pin to hold your seams in place.

Now, I have learned from doing this a few times that you don't always have your seams quite straight.  Or your line ends up crooked, or you decide you have made your bottom too wide...the list goes on.  So, my tip on this is to BASTE your corner first.  This will truly make your life easier should you decide it needs changing.

When you have got it right you can always go back and sew it in with a tighter length stitch afterward.  In the end your corners should be lined up with the seams and each other.

When you are positively, absolutely, totally committed to your corners then flip your pouch inside out again and trim the excess.  This is especially important with fabric that has interfacing as it will bunch and be an annoyance later.

Repeat this same step with your lining!

Exterior and Interior Sewn - Now Sew Them Together!

By this point you should have a sewn exterior and a sewn lining.  If you intend to have a pouch with squared bottom then they should both also be squared.  Hmmm...what now?  Well that whole non-negotiable section comes into play now!

Take your lining fabric and flip it inside out.  Leave your exterior fabric right side out.

Then take your exterior and place it inside your lining.  Now on the outside you should only see the wrong side of the lining (if you used interfacing on your lining then you will see interfacing!).

On the interior of your pouch you will see the interfacing of the exterior portion of the pouch.

As any quilter knows, when you layer this many fabrics on top of each other some slipping and sliding can happen.  So you may want to pin the opening together to keep it in place.  Also, you will want to leave an opening to flip your pouch inside out again and sew the rest of the opening together.  If you use pins they can also serve an additional purpose by marking where you start and begin your sewing.   

I left my opening the size of the whole horizontal line of my non-negotiable section.  It is large enough to fit my hand and was easily defined.  I was also sure to reinforce my sewing at the beginning and end of the opening so that it didn't tear.  

When the sewing is complete then turn the piece inside out.

When you reach the point where the lining and exterior are completely out then you will push the lining inside the exterior.

To make sure your pieces are fitting together well you should roll your seams between your forefinger and thumb.  This will help set them in place and align them together correctly.

 

Hmmmm...so what to do with this bit?  The left over opening?  Well, you can hand sew it if you are so inclined.

Personally I fold under the fabric to 1/4" and iron it down.  Then I sew a top stitch close to the edge.  This will be hidden by the frame when it is attached.  

In the end your pouch should be complete - sans frame!  We will learn how to attach it tomorrow.  Be ready with your glue or curved needles!!!

Don't forget to post your questions or progress on the Flickr Group Page.  

I am also linking up to Freshly Pieced for Work in Progress Wednesday.  If you are visiting from there feel free to join in our PAL.  It'll be here whenever you have time to join!

- rebecca lynne

p.s. Halloween Photos coming soon!