Bra Review: Unlined Piper Longline by Cleo

That unlined Cleo Piper longline I've been waiting for just arrived and it is ALL that:

I mean to take my own pic but I cannot say when that'll be. In the interim, please enjoy this photo from Dreams and Underthings.

No question, it is a rare, as-yet released bra that raises this degree of expectation and lust. Most who wear full bust/small band sizes have felt terribly neglected when it comes to unlined longlines because, well, they simply haven't existed till now. Sure, about 5 years ago, the regular full-bust players started producing seamed (but lined or lightly padded) versions. Note that those don't play nicely with projected breasts. Moreover, having tried them, I find that the engineering isn't noteworthy - the bands are wussy, too short and incline to buckle.

I've read a number of reviews of this cobalt-shade, unlined Piper (not that there are tons of them because this bra is newly-released). It would appear to fit a broad variety of different breast shapes - tall roots, short roots, wider or narrower breasts, full on bottom (everyone agrees it excels for this subset), a bit full on top (but not overly). It's odd to hear of this degree of modularity in a bra.

I'd read one review and think: Phew, this one's going to work well for me, I know it. Then I'd read another and start feeling concerned. But I needn't have been.

I can now corroborate that this bra also works for the even/full bust (that which is equivalently both lower- and upper-cup "full", having considerable projection). My bust is high-set on my chest, but my roots are short. This gives me functionally even root-height and I do not find this too high at the underarm. The wires may be a bit wide, but there's enough depth in the cups to avoid shape-distortion. There's also enough centre-projection (and dimension to the outer cup piece) to allow for projected breasts to sit front and centre. The gore's a bit wider than the close-set might prefer, but my boobs are very close together and this gore tacks without issue.

So let me tell you why, IMO, this bra is so easy for so many:

• The band of a longline, when it really fits the person who's wearing it, provides an optimal amount of support. This support is not only flattering (and tends to improve the lift-ability of the cups given that wider bands distribute weight over a broader surface area), but it's good for those who may experience back or shoulder pain due to bras that are too loose in the back (or too flimsy of fabric) and too small in the cups. This band's robustness, in addition to its deep cups (see more below), make for a bra that's very comfortable.

• In full disclosure, the cups are constructed in such a way that generally doesn't work for me as there's a reasonably horizontal seam (not as diagonal as I prefer) delineating an upper cup from the under cup. What saves the day, IMO, is that the under cup is actually 3 pieces, vertically seamed). This construction provides a lot of volume for full on bottom breasts. 

• Moreover, the horizontal seam is set above the bust apex, to diminish the cup shallowness which this sort of seam tends to produce. Also, because the lower cup is so volume-friendly, those who often use the volume of an upper cup to redistribute full on bottom projection (and most full on bottom peeps who wear the wrong size do this) are able to use the upper cup volume for its intended purpose. That's why those with projected, even, or slightly functionally full on top breasts, who also have lower fullness, can wear this without feeling like the upper cup is too closed.

• Finally, back to the band: It's the perfect length for me, a short-waisted gal, and the plastic boning is adequate to keep things in place. You could replace the plastic with metal, easily enough, but unless your ribs flare or you have some strategically-located, flare-producing torso flesh, I don't think it would be necessary. Because it has 5 hooks/eyes, it doesn't need to be overly snug to provide optimal support. But I don't find this band particularly snug.

 Now let's talk about how it looks:

• This bra is much more luxe-seeming than any other Cleo bra I've come across. The fabric is great. The eyelash lace is soft and delicate, but not weak. The colour is as delicious as everyone else says. The Cleo Piper is gorgeous - and really sexy - and it's a great foundation garment under slim-fitting clothes. I actually think it's a steal at the cost, which is one of the reasons I bet it'll be very popular - and one of the reasons why it's selling out fast.

The bottoms, an adequate, plain brief in matching fabric, are in no way up to the standard of the bra. A high-waisted, lacy number - or even a good thong - would create a more attractive set. These undies are merely passable. And they fit on the loose side. I hope that if this bra sticks around that Cleo will up its game, on this account, to perfect the finished look.

Today's questions: Have you tried this bra? Did it work? Do you want to buy it? Think it's overrated? Let's talk!

Bra Review: Cleo Lucy

This is the first of 3 more bra reviews on the subject of finding a black bra that fits me. You know how I've been in the "black bra drought" for a LONG time now and my last one is on its last legs. (Yeah, first world problems and all, but I do hate it when there's a hole in the lingerie wardrobe.)

FWIW, black bras can be a tricky fit. For kicks, next time you're in a store that stocks a bra you wear and like in a fashion colour or beige, try on the black version (presuming it's made in that colourway) and notice the difference in fit. Black dye - as sewists and knitters can tell you - tends to shrink fabric more than other dyes. It can also impact the texture. Fun fact: That's one reason why I hate black jeans.

Colour notwithstanding, I never thought the Lucy would work on me, and it doesn't. No sense in lingering over the punch line. The Lucy went back to Figleaves immediately after I tried it.

I was optimistic, as my very well-fitting Lori and Kali are sister styles (according to lots of resources, they're cut exactly the same). That's not corroborated by my experience nor by Veronica's (bra-fitter extraordinaire). The fit differences are subtle but, in my case, they're a deal breaker.

First up, the bra in question:

Cleo By Panache - Lucy

Yeah, I know it's venerable. Many of you probably own it. It's a very useful "fit" bra - when you're trying to determine your size - particularly if your sense is that your breasts are full on bottom. It's considered to be the fit inverse of the Cleo Marcie (the "fit" bra for full on top breasts).

Black and white are its continuity colours. It also comes out in fashion colours each season (at least it used to). Many of those are still readily available online.

By comparison, here are shots of the Kali and the Lori:

Cleo by Panache Kali

Cleo by Panache Lori

FYI, I've written detailed reviews about the Kali and the Lori, in case you'd like to read more about them.

I really wish that these stock photos were of the same woman in the same position. I also wish that I could adequately describe how the most subtle changes in dimension can tank fit altogether.

Here's the gist (and measurements corroborate this):

• The cup width is the biggest issue. The Lucy has a width of 7.5 inches from gore wire to side wire (measured over the upper cup span). The Lori's is 6", Kali's is 5.8". For me, 6 inches is optimal. What this means is that the cups are much wider than my breasts. They pull my breasts out to the sides and the gore rests slightly on breast tissue. It's not good for immediate centre front projection because it caters to a breast shape wherein the majority of breast tissue is on the centre-plane or outside of the breasts.

• Unsurprisingly the wider cup leads to a shallower profile (this isn't always the case, but within the same size and shape it generally is). The Lucy is 10.5" deep. My preference is 11.5. Interestingly, in the same size, the Kali measures 11" and the Lori measures 12".

• The Lucy is stretchier in the band, than either my Lori or Kali - which makes it pretty unsupportive. FYI, I bought the Lori in a 32 band so, in actual fact, the Lori's band is likely as stretchy as the Lucy's - but it doesn't impact me. Stretched Lucy band (purchased 34) = 33". That's very stretchy for Cleo bras, though pretty true to size for other brands. Stretched Lori band (purchased 32) = 32.5. Stretched Kali band (purchased 34) = 31.5. My preference in stretched bands, these days, is 31 - 32". The former, slimmer and less sensitive me would have preferred 30 - 31".

• Furthermore, as mentioned, black dye impacts the fabric feel and stretch factor. Yeah Cleo cups are non-stretch, but all fabric has natural ease which results in a bit of stretch. Not so much when it's dyed black. Often it's that give that provides the perfect fit in the final analysis (when shape and size needs are largely met already).

• Wider cups lead to wider straps - and the straps on the Lucy are at the edge of falling off my shoulders. Happily, in addition to having narrow shoulders I have narrow breasts so I'm not required to wear bras, to work for my breast width, that are misaligned with my shoulder width. The combo of stretchy band, wide straps and wide cups makes for a very unsupportive and bouncy bra.

• Finally, Lucy's cup separation - specifically at the bottom of the gore - is just too wide for me. It makes sense. The Lucy is a wider bra than either the Kali or Lori. It's also less deep at the gore where it meets the cup. The top of the cup has a separation of 1 inch - which is on the edge of too wide for me (my breasts are VERY close set at the top). 0.5" is my preference (though that's very hard to find). 0.7" works alright for me but by the time you get to an inch, it's likely not going to work. The Lori's is 1 inch, interestingly, but the fabric is different and it doesn't widen too much at the base of the gore (which is where the Lucy goes all to hell on me). The Kali's is 0.8".

So, there you go.

In terms of the fabric and feel, the Lucy's alright. Feels quite like the Kali (by contrast, the Lori is beautifully soft). It's vaguely starchy but nowhere near as industrial, fabric-wise, as the deep styles that Cleo makes (Ellis, Lily). I've never really liked this bra - I feel it's bland and it does look wide on every model. Mind you, I can appreciate that it might be awesome if it works with one's natural shape. That's kind of how it is with all bras.

The Bra Sale: Full Inventory and Specifics on Batch 1 (NWT and Empreinte)

As promised, here's a list of the loot that's available (listing free stuff first, followed by brands in alpha order). Photos and additional info will follow in other posts:

Empreinte	Lily Rose	Free	(Yeah, you did read that right)
Fantasie	Bella	Free
Freya	Pheobe	Free
Freya	Unknown (Blue and pink with animal print), totally awesome	Free
Freya	Eleanor	Free
Freya	Millie (Black)	Free
Freya	Millie  (Pink)	Free
Panache	Tango Plunge	Free
Panache	Tango Plunge	Free
Charnos	Cherub Full Cup (Black)	Free
Cleo	Meg	$15.00
Cleo	Neve	$15.00
Cleo	Bella	$10.00
Empreinte	Kaela	$45.00
Empreinte	Lola	$45.00
Fantasie	Helena	$10.00
Fantasie	Smoothing Balconette	$5.00
Fantasie	Smoothing Balconette	$5.00
Fantasie	Samantha Strapless	$10.00
Freya	Nina	$5.00
Freya	Arabella	$10.00
Freya	Tabitha	$5.00
Freya	Rio	$5.00
Freya	Tamsin	$5.00
Miss Mandalay	Paris	$5.00
Panache	Envy	$10.00
Panache	Strapless 5210 (padded)	$5.00
Panache	Jasmine	$10.00
Wacoal	Retro Chic	$5.00

Let's get the photos rolling with (my precious) Empreinte and a couple of NWT items:

Empreinte Lola (in Blush):

See post here for a review. Although this was purchased in the same size as my black version (which I also posted about), it was always smaller in the back than the black. That's the sad potentiality of different dye lots. Alas, since I bought it via the UK, there was no option to try it on first...

I'm just gonna say, it's so beautiful I can scarcely believe I'm selling it, even if I am never going to wear it again... Worn twice with an extender, before accepting it was a no-go.

Who's this for? Someone who's always wanted to try Empreinte but can't find it locally or can't afford to spend the bucks. It's effectively a wardrobe neutral. Doesn't show under top unless it's very thin and very tight.

Empreinte Kaela

Posted about this one here (includes more pics)... This is a soft-cup molded bra that provides a very rounded shape. It's beautiful but, alas, too shallow for me. Don't get me wrong, it's not a shallow bra in the scheme of things, it's just shallow by Empreinte standards - and by the standards of my very projected needs. The pattern reminds me of a breeze on a lake. Also counts towards wardrobe neutral.

Cleo by Panache - Meg

What can I say about this one? It's a gorgeous bra - totally boobs on a plate and extremely supportive. But it's very strangely sized. This fits one size larger than you'd imagine, in the cup, and one size smaller in the band. Good for very full on top breasts. See these posts on the bra and fit...

Cleo Neve

This was purchased for my daughter but it just didn't work on her. It's quite shallow and wide in the wires. It's a true plunge and would work well for someone with tall roots or upper cup fullness, IMO. Good for young breasts. Very pretty shade of coral, lightly padded.

So there you go, Batch 1. Next up, we'll talk about some Freyas...

Bra Review: Cleo by Panache Lori (and Matching Undies)

Recently, I had the, ahem, opportunity to buy a bunch of new bras for my kid. It's actually very useful research, buying for a person of a different size and shape than oneself, and outrageously pricey. Turns out that my kid has been listening to all of my good "life advice", and now she won't "let me" buy anything without begging incessantly to also get the matching undies. Fortunately, she's in very reasonable brands costing reasonable amounts (and even more reasonable amounts online) but really, that's my one life lesson she's opted to internalize?? What happened to doing homework without watching TV??

At any rate, I'm doing nothing to unmake this monster because, really, how can one (even an adolescent) be expected to wear a bra that doesn't match her knickers? I'm thrilled to say that my kid finally agreed to purchase a seamed bra without foam cups. Those young people don't understand the world before molded crap. At first she was all: There is no way I'm wearing this soft bra but, after I adjusted the straps and band, and she did a bit of swoop and scoop, the bra was a thing of perfection. Actually, it's more a matter of the youthful body being a thing of perfection, but the bra didn't hurt. Needless to say she's revised her opinion on its appearance and functionality.

But moving on... I can't be expected to buy lots of lingerie for others without having a bit of fun for myself, which is why I purchased an outlier (for my shape): the Cleo by Panache Lori:

You might be thinking that I buy Cleo bras constantly semi-regularly. And I do, but I don't buy the styles that come in this shape, a shape molded on the (insanely popular) Lucy sloper.

Why not? Well, this sloper is designed for the shallower Cleo customer. Don't misunderstand, it's more projected than the offerings of many other brands (Curvy Kate, for example) but it's known for being the style that the slightly less narrow and projected ladies tend to love.

And, as we know, that's not me.

The reason I gave it a go - other than my continual curiosity (believe it or not, two bras I've never tried are the Cleo Lucy and Cleo Marcie - perhaps the most talked about bras on the full-bust, youth-market scene) - is that this bra has been known to thwart the average Lucy-lover cuz it's just a little too projected.

Now that didn't mean it would suit me. But when I found it on eBay for a very good price (50 bucks, all in), I decided I'd give it a go.

Here's what I can tell you:

• If you fit the Lucy, chances are this won't work for you. The exception is if you're on the cusp of not fitting into the Lucy due to the amount of inner cup projection you require. I was surprised at how well this fits me, even at the centre gore. It's a rather projected bra - but it produces a wider shape, overall, than many other Cleos, as the cup construction is different.

• It's not as supportive as the Cleos that cater to the very projected among us (Melissa, Meg, Ellis, Bella), but it is partial band (almost no profile beneath the under wires). These bras tend to be a bit less supportive, especially on larger-breasted women, but they're great for the short-waisted among us. On this topic, I've begun to find the full-band Cleo styles to be just too thick below the wires. And they seem to be increasing the width every season...

• It gives a very round shape - almost rounder than I like, but I know this is a ridiculously popular silhouette. It's nice to have very round options on occasion, just to shake it up.

• The straps are standard-issue Cleo skinny. They're not the most comfortable, especially after a day of wear (and if your breasts are heavy), but they're not a deal-breaker for me. I mean, all Panache straps are inferior, IMO. But when I want awesome construction, I go for Empreinte.

• There are 2 hooks and eyes, vs the 3 which many ladies prefer, but again, this brand caters to the young. And the young tend to look down on 3 hooks and eyes for some reason I cannot understand. Really, peeps, a sexy bra is sexy regardless. I mean, long line bras can be hella sexy and they have upwards of 5 hooks and eyes.

• The gore is narrow, as are the wires, but not excessively so. This isn't the brand for the wide-set, wide-rooted among us. It's also no Comexim or Ewa Michalak - aka narrow in extremis. This bra doesn't produce the "boobs on a plate" thing that the Polish brands are famous for. It's not even as "boobs on a plate" as the more projected, full-band Cleo options listed above.

But how does it look?

• It's a great looking bra. The grey / orangey-coral colourway is very chic, but also youthful. It's unexpected, but not girlish in that way we've come to associate with Cleo. The balconette is moderate, neither too low nor too high on the chest. And it's firm lace at the upper cup, if not "closed", so it's not a bouncy bra. Mind you, it's not optimal for the breasts with tremendous upper fullness. Despite its lacieness, it doesn't produce too much profile under clothing.

• I do like the Cleo undies (always this style - which is starting to get a bit boring, though I'm sure they haven't mixed it up because this cut is flattering on many) but the material is not the best. I mean, it's the exact same material as is used in the bra - so it's totally consistent - but it doesn't make for the most comfortable, low-profile or breathable offering in the land.

All in all I recommend this set. It's cute, it's not expensive, it's easy enough to find. It's a low-risk experiment if you're looking for a little change from the usual.

Mind you, I do have to say that I may be coming to the end of my love-affair with Cleo. It's all vaguely samey-samey and the materials are just not luxe enough for the midlife version of me. Moreover, would it kill them to make one bra in a neutral? You may not always want a jewel-tone purple offering - regardless of a great shape - for underneath your white t shirt.

Today, I tried on Empreinte bra that blew me away:

The one I tried was in a champagney kind of shade (this one seems to be ice blue) and it was spectacular. The workmanship was unparalleled. The bra was a comfortable as could be. Alas, the set would have put me back 350 bucks. Which is hard to justify given the number of bras I already own. Hell, it's hard to justify merely on the basis of the number of Empreinte bras I already own.

But enough of the frou-frou fantasy... Have you tried the Lori? What do you think of the style and pattern? If not the Lori, let us know your experience of the Lucy, assuming that this is the version of that style you've come to know and love. Is Cleo thrilling you or is it losing its edge? Let's talk!

Lingerie Review: Cleo Ellis

So, you know I've spent the last 3 weeks spring cleaning. It's been mainly by necessity - certainly not from natural enthusiasm. There's nothing like finding 4 sweaters with holes and a moth to change the trajectory of one's free time for a month.

In case you're wondering, yes - I have over-reacted.

But, I've also managed to cull about 40 items (conservative estimate) from my wardrobe, as I've cleaned, mended and reorganized.

Sure, I imagine, were I to count - and I'm getting almost curious enough to take on this ridiculous exercise - I'd have 20 skirts and 20 dresses and 40 sweaters and 10 pairs of jeans - for starters. But I really enjoy everything and most of it fits (except for a small collection which is a size up or a size down, just to be practical).

I'm actually rather pleased to know what's what, and to be able to see it all easily.

Disclaimer: I have always been a rather organized and tidy person (with a strong, orderly aesthetic) so my closet, while now more minimal, is really not any prettier than it was before.

One of the areas I've culled excessively is the lingerie drawer. As my body has changed over the past couple of years, I find that many of my sets are no longer as supportive as they need to be. I've also gone up approximately a cup size - so the bras that were on the smaller size in my wardrobe, are now too small. Are they wearable? Yes. Will I wear them? Not a chance.

On this topic: Stay tuned for another bra "sale" in the near future.

I mean, don't start crying for me. I still have more beautifully-fitted, gorgeous bras than any human being requires. But now the drawer seems a little bit lacking in something, how shall we say it?, new and fun.

It seems the only two brands I buy anymore are Cleo and Empreinte. Empreinte brings out the European sexpot in me (with unparalleled shape and support) while Cleo hits the fun spot.

Lots of peeps are pissed that Cleo can't seem to make a bra that even vaguely nods at neutral. I hear those angsty cries, but I LOVE the insane patterns that this brand produces again and again and again.

To wit:

Photo courtesy of Miss Underpinnings (you should read her post...)

Once I had a lot of pink in the cupboard. Now, I need some more!

Is this not perfect for spring??

This bra fits very similarly to the Melissa and the Bella - both of which I own and which I've reviewed (click on the links).

If anything, this version of the style is the best fitting of them all so far - though I have achieved very good, "boobs on a plate" fit in every Cleo bra I've bought in this size. The bands are quite tight so consider sizing up. I wear a 32 and, while I'm getting used to it, I use an extender.

You should know that not all Cleos are constructed the same. The Lucy, for example, works better for wider, bottom-heavy breasts (in the scheme of things - the line does cater to narrow roots).

But, if you have narrow roots of standard height (see the link, above, on Melissa for more about this lingo) and very projected, even-to-full-on-top breasts, this might be the brand for which you thank your lucky stars.

Did I mention that it's totally affordable? I got the set on eBay for 50 bucks, all in. Please. (It almost offsets the hysteria-inducing prices of Empreinte.)

Some Details:

• The pattern is as gorgeous in real life as in photos.

• The bra is comfortable - but note that the band size runs quite small in Cleo bras.

• The fabrics are supremely supportive because there's NO stretch in them of any sort. Having said that, they can be stiff at first. The fabric is never going to be luxe. Mind you, it feels luxer than any mid-priced brand I've tried.

• The undies are standard issue with this cut of Cleo bra. There's a boy short and a thong. Both fit nicely, but I'd size up in each - especially the thong.

• The weakest elements of the Cleo bra persist: the straps are too thin (and not strong compared to the rest of the bra) and the back has only 2x2 hooks and eyes. This works fine for me because the band of the bra, wires and fabric (in addition to construction technique) give me adequate support. But, in a larger cup size - or in the case of heavier breasts / breasts of different shapes - both of these challenges can be significant. And they're both very resolvable! Mind you, that would involve money and the reason this brand is affordable is because it's somewhat no-frills.

• The shape is fantastic: high, round and front-and-centre. Totally pin-up and not in any way minimizing. Mind you, bras that minimize tend to add 10 pounds (by compressing breast tissue and moving it to the side body and down towards the abdomen), so why would you want that??

• The difference between the Ellis and the Melissa/Bella (and I'll need to wear it for a while before I understand the fit fully) is in the upper cup and the immediate centre front projection. That's why it works so well for me. My boobs jut straight out quickly from the breastbone (and are quite close set). Bras which provide immediate projection from the centre gore are my best friends! And, trust me, they're very hard to find. The lace is quite soft and open (though not stretchy like that of the Panache Jasmine). This makes it malleable for upper breast fullness, but not weak as stretchy lace can be if one's breast tissue is soft.

I'd say the fabric hand is more like the Bella than the Melissa but the fit is more like the Melissa than the Bella. Of these three bras, I sense I will continue to love the Melissa best - it's just spectacular - but I can tell that the Ellis has already edged out the Bella. The Bella is good, but it's a bit pointier and sturdier than either of the others. And I just don't dig turquoise as I thought I would.

Well there's an epic on a Wednesday afternoon. Wait till you hear what else I've bought!

Today's questions: Do you wear Cleo? Why or why not? If you wear it and you love it, is your shape similar to mine? Do you love this gorgeous pattern?? (Yeah, I know that one's leading.) Let's talk!

The Bra Adventures: Cleo by Panache - Bella

Well, my lovelies, it appears I have a new brand.

Cleo (the deep cup offerings) is perfection but do note: I've had to size up in the band (32 not 30) and in the cup. The likelihood is that you'll want to do the same.

To wit:

(See this post for deets on where to get these...)

What I find amazing (from a personal restraint perspective) is that I haven't tried the Marcie or Lucy - this brand's iconic offerings. Why? Well I sense they're not the optimal shape for me - particularly the Lucy. The wires look too wide and the bras, it seems, cater to a fuller on bottom shape. I feel these styles would not lift and project like the styles that really work for me - Meg (well, if I could get the right size), Melissa, Bella. I suspect the Natasha would also work extremely well but I cannot stand the pattern. Each of these is deep through the centre, reasonably narrow (though not excessively so) in the wires and very firm in the band. They are also full balconettes that plunge, ever so slightly, at the centre, which is to say they have a plunge that's restrained enough to provide support for soft breasts. The deep Cleos have more oomph than the Panache Jasmine, interestingly, not because the gore is lower (it's exactly the same height) but because the upper cup (which is quite narrow) starts quite high. Also, the widest piece of this bra is the lower side cup. It makes up fully half of the cup.

Let me tell you about this set:

• The pattern is awesome - bright, cheerful, eclectic, youthful. While bugs on bras is not my thing, these yellow, embroidered butterflies (and birds) are just the thing. And the colour is much more vibrant in real life than in any photo.
• The shape is fantastic. It's high and front-and-centre. It fits a full through the middle, deep breast shape very well, with no pillowing - but don't forget to size up. I suspect if one is considerably full on top or on bottom this bra might not work, but a little in either direction will be well-accommodated.
• The support is excellent. It doesn't merely lift, this bra also holds everything in shape. It's got that patented "no-stretch" three piece cup happening.
• The undies, like the bra, are very well made and in the cutest shape. In truth, I haven't had a chance to try them on yet but I sense that they will be flattering.
• One thing that I have noted about this bra - and it is more observable in the Bella than in the Melissa (though the dimensions appear to be almost identical in this respect) - is that the under-band is pronounced. If you have "girth" (hideous word) that begins just under your band, you may want to give this a miss because, as you can see from the pics, this bra has a broad under band. It's one of the things that contributes to it's good support. 
• Overall, the Melissa provides less coverage (though quite enough) and the lovely Bella provides a bit more (perhaps hovering on the cusp of too much, depending on one's shape).

So, today's questions: Has anyone else out there actually tried this bra?? What do you think of it? The reviews sure are far and few between. I suppose it's possible I got this version right out of the gate but I'd love to know what others think.

The Bra Adventures: The Cleos

You may know that I recently bought 2 Cleo bras: the Meg and the Melissa. Well, here's the scoop (or should I call it the scoop and swoop :-)). Note: I do realize that bra humour is lame. Keep in mind that both of these bras have a similar shape and cut.

Up first - the Meg:

I know, I know - The photo is horrid in its infantalism...

I actually purchased this bra twice (as the post I've linked to mentions). The first time, I bought it in my standard size online. Though I reviewed the cup depth and other details on Bratabase before doing so, it was fractionally too small.

The second online purchase - same back size (32), but one cup size larger, just arrived today. OMG - it's like a totally different animal. It fits at least 2 cup sizes larger than the original one, though equally firm in the band. This makes it much too large.

Let me say, it's rare for me to find a cup too deep. Very rare. This one gapes at the top. On my larger breast it's (maybe?) passably too loose. My smaller breast is so mis-sized in this thing that it actually looks dessicated?! How disappointing cuz I love the design and - unless one of these is mistakenly tagged - there is no right size for me. (I'm done trying, btw, so even if there is a right size for me, I'm unlikely ever to discover it.) Note: I suspect the larger of the 2 sizes that I purchased is the outlier.

Were it to fit, it would be delightful in shape: The style pulls the breasts forward, projecting them as it lifts. It's very "boobs on a plate" but English-style - not in a half-cup way. There's enough top-cup support and coverage that it's very wearable under lots of things and there's apt to be no jiggle.

I'll return one Meg and keep the other (NWT) plus the undies (also NWT) to sell at a later date - when they're no longer around and the demand is up. (Note: I don't intend to sell them for profit, of course, just to recoup my expenses.) Two bras of the same style, neither of which fits, is just depressing - even if the style is gorgeous.

The final word on this: Sigh.

But then there's the Melissa:

Some people I work with (you know who you are :-)) have called this design "hideous". That is SO wrong. It's adorable, whimsical, cheerful, sassy.

And happily, this one fits perfectly!

You may recall that I first tried it on at a Toronto boutique, in my standard size, and it was too small. I'm very pleased to say that one cup size up (same back size - a 32, as this bra fits snugly) is a great fit. Thereby reinforcing my perspective that the upsized Meg is wrong.

The Melissa is deceptively supportive and yet it has the same "boobs on a plate" shape noted above. It looks gentle, but it's a workhorse.

I'm not sure if you can see, in the photos, how the Meg (top bra) is higher cut in the cups than the Melissa, but it really is. I'd say, though I love its abstract bird design and the ribbon feature on the top cup, it's verging on too full. By contrast, the Melissa has just the right amount of top-cup support.

In both of these bras, the under wires are neither narrow nor wide but the centre gore is close-set.

I think that both of these fuller, front-and-centre Cleo styles will work for a number of different shapes, though the sizing is a bit strange: narrow or wide (though not excessively either), top-full or bottom-full (though more for the full on top), dense breast or buoyant and a reasonably wide range of sizes.

Today's questions: Have you tried either (or both) of these and, if so, what's your perspective? Do you like the designs or do you find them hideous. Note: I agree that the styling is horrible, try to ignore it. Let's talk!

The Bra Adventures: Cleo Meg and Cleo Melissa (and some links to demystify breast shape)

I've got a bunch of exciting things to talk about but I've opted to start with a bit more on bras.

For starters, a number of you have expressed intrigue, or confusion, over certain terms breast shape terms I've used lately i.e., wide or narrow root, shallow or deep bust and I'm sure the list goes on. There are some very comprehensive posts out there that clarify these somewhat complex concepts so please do read these (a brief smattering of the great info that's out there):

• Shallow breasts with a broad base
• Examples of shallow breasts (photos included so perhaps NSFW)
• Clarifying breast shape
• How to figure out the shape of your boobs
• The (potential) merits of +2 bra bands on frames with little padding
• A gallery of breast shapes (these are illustrations, not photos)
• Getting to the root of the problem

Having said this, the whole breast shape thing is pretty complicated! I mean, it's hard enough to find a shirt that fits - and it doesn't need to fit particularly perfectly or to provide you with optimal structural support. Don't be too fussed if these concepts and terms seem alien for a while. The more you think on them - the more you aim to apply them to your own shape - the sooner you'll begin to understand. One day, you'll look at someone on the streetcar and think: Wow, that woman has very deep bust and that bra she's wearing would be much better suited to someone with a wider, flatter breast profile. And the band's too big! (Of course, you'll think it very scientifically and with compassion.)

OK, moving along, I do have a fun Bra Adventure to share - or is it 2 bra adventures?!

Cleo is a brand I didn't have much use for when first I tried it a couple of years ago. I bought the Frances, which was lovely, but which fit quite small and not very supportively. I really had written off the brand till I started reading all the bra bloggers and many of them have great things to say about it.

Then, when I started using Bratabase recently (having determined my own breast depth and shape) I was able to review the stats on the Cleo bras I like (along with the reviews) to predict if they will work.

A couple of weeks ago I tried the Melissa at a bra boutique in TO. It was in my "regular" size and it was too small, but I did like the shape - and I loved the pattern. Alas, the shop didn't have a size up in stock.

I LOVE the design:

Image from A Sophisticated Pair

It's so whimsical. So playful! Look at the cloud motif in the lace!

You may notice that the cups on this bra are quite substantial for a balconette. See how high they run? You may also be able to tell (though pictures don't show the full story) that this is a fairly deep cup. Observe how the profile of the breast from the gore to the nipple is longer than that from the nipple to outer breast. And, if that means nothing, take my word for it: The cup is far deeper than it was on the Frances I tried years ago. Mind you, it's still small in the cup - hence my need to size up.

I'll also say that this bra is quite supportive with firm fabric, snug band (you might want to go up a band size) and good coverage (but it's in no way frumpy, I should add).

You know, there's an argument to be made that I'm too old for this design but I'm not hearing it, thank you very much :-)

Then there's another Cleo offering I'm really into, the Meg:

Photo from Bras I Hate

Note the similar construction to the Melissa. It's a high balconette with a rounded upper cup - good for a full on top bust (but with no stretch on the top cup - so the fit has got to be right or there will be some pillowing!) I think it's even more apparent, with this bra, that the cup is deep. It too has a band that runs tight so consider sizing up.

The pattern is whimsical, but elegant - a bird motif in navy with white and grey, accented in red ribbon.

The shape it provides - like the Melissa - is what I call "boobs on a plate" (albeit, boobs on a plate that are well supported). More on this concept when one of my next orders arrives, but the gist is that the shape is front and centre - and high.

Originally I purchased this at a great price, on sale, from LCL and it just arrived a couple of days ago. Honestly, I can't believe it's still available on the site, given the discount and the quality of the bra. Alas, I ordered it in my regular size - which Bratabase led me to believe would yield good fit - and it's just the teensiest bit too snug. I debated whether to just keep and wear it but I'm on a mission. If the fit's not perfect, I'm moving on. Empreinte has ruined me in this way!

So, I went onto eBay and found a vendor selling both of these (with the matching undies) and I purchased each in the size up that was no longer available (in the case of the Meg, on LCL, and in the case of the Melissa, at the Toronto boutique).

I'd already bought the Meg undies via LCL at this point (when I bought the bra) - they're darling. But to give you a reference point - 2 bras and a pair of matching undies cost me @50 bucks (including shipping) from the UK. That's freakin' awesome given that I a) know the quality of what I'm getting and b) have a pretty good sense that the fit will work - having tried on both bras in another size. By contrast, the Melissa bra alone, which  I tried on in store, would have cost @90 bucks once the tax was added in.

I've even decided to keep the Meg I bought (the one that doesn't fit perfectly), with all of its original tags, to sell at a later date if I so choose (or to wear if my shape warrants it).

At any rate, that's my thesis du jour.

So, today's questions are: Have you tried the Cleo Meg or Cleo Melissa and, if yes, what do you think? Do you like this brand? These styles? Are the bra-shape links useful to you? Let's talk!

Panache

You know how I had to go back to Figleaves, to purchase the replacement bra for the one I'm going to rip the stitches out of - for science? Well, it occurred to me that I should buy myself a little something extra for good measure - to defray the shipping charge.

I opted for the Cleo by Panache Frances. Panache is a British company that's been around for at least 20 years. Cleo is a recent subsidiary, near as I can tell. It seems to be trying to hit the Freya demographic. Just look at the similarities in marketing.

At any rate, I'm not sure if the prices are very good on Figleaves (that happens) or if the brand is a less pricey, sister brand. The set was a ridiculously affordable 34 pounds (40pounds if you factor in shipping without my other items).

Admittedly, I don't know how it's going to fit yet, but my other Panache bras are amongst the best fitting I have found.

Here's a photo:



I know I've got a plethora of pink underwear. I don't know why I always gravitate toward the crazy patterns and the pinks. At least this one has cool lace and lilac elements. It doesn't scream "autumn", but then summer's going to be here for a while more, I suspect.

What do you know about Cleo by Panache? It seems to be very under the radar, at least in Canada...