Spaghetti With Brown Butter and Feta (Μακαρόνια με βούτυρο και φέτα)

Last weekend was a busy one. I had a full social calendar, things to do around the house, work on a revamped "Kalofagas" website and attend a Superbowl party on a Sunday evening that's usually spent quietly at home.

Oh yeah...I was also in the thick of baking, enjoying and sharing artisan bread in five minutes! As a reminder, you have until this upcoming Friday (by noon) to leave a comment and be elligible for a draw to win this fabulous bread making cookbook.

As if bread weren't enough carbs, I had a craving for pasta but something stripped down, focusing on good ingredients and what the Hell, I was feeling nostalgic.

One of my favourite dishes my mom would serve is a plain spaghetti (Makaronia) that was tossed in butter until slightly browned, then the pasta was drained and tossed in the brown butter with crumbled Feta cheese and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to cap the dish.

Brown butter is a sauce unto itself and in my opinion, under-rated. The next time you're feeling for pasta yet you want something light, try a spaghetti with brown butter and Feta. Whip up a salad and call it a nice, light dinner where you'll get to eat Makaronia the way momma made it.

In case you're wondering, that's plain white pasta in the photos, the brown butter has given the dish a warm nut-brown colour.

Spaghetti With Brown Butter and Feta (Μακαρόνια με βούτυρο και φέτα)
(per serving)

2 Tbsp. of butter
1 clove of garlic, smashed
handful of dry spaghetti (Misko brand)
extra-virgin olive oil
grated Kefalotyri or Romano cheese
crumbled Feta cheese
salt and pepper to taste

1. Get a pot of water boiling on your stovetop. When aboil, add a good amount of salt, add your spaghetti and cook according to packet's instructions.
2. In a small pot, add your butter, a little olive oil and the smashed clove of garlic over medium heat. Keep your eye on the melting butter and soon you will see the milk solids begin to foam and quickly dissappear...THIS is where you have to watch carefully.
3. Your butter will turn from a golden yellow to a chestnut brown very rapidly. Your goal is to get a nut-brown colour to your butter. Once you have that nut-brown butter, take off the heat, take the clove of garlic out and keep cover to keep warm until your pasta is done.
4. When your pasta is cooked to an "al dente", strain and place in the pot with your brown butter. Toss the pasta to coat and if the spaghetti appears a bit dry, add some olive oil into the mix. Add some grated Kefalotyri cheese and continue to toss until the cheese has blended in with the butter.
5. Take off the heat, add some crumbled Feta, a turn of fresh-cracked black pepper and top with some more crumbled Feta and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil

The richer, creamier cousin to this dish can be found here.


If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.blogspot.com then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.
© 2007-2009 Peter Minakis

Ragu of Braised Lamb

This past Friday I drank & supped with some old and new friends and discovered a new eatery that's operated in Toronto for years.

I supped at none other than Gio Rana's Really Really Nice Restaurant. Upon pulling up in front of what used to be a bank, you wonder if you're at the right address but as soon as you enter the premise, catch the buzz of the crowd, the positive vibe of the staff and ultimately taste the food. You'll realize why this joint has been satisfying Torontonians with Italian food for years.

If you're in Toronto and you feel like Italian, a fun crowd and at affordable prices, go to Geo's! I started off with the Frito Misto and finished off with a grilled whole Branzino (Lavraki) stuffed with tarragon and lemon. I also ordered a side of rapini but the dish that stood out in my mind enough to replicate it the next day was the Lamb Ragu.

Geo's served me an aromatic, slow-braised lamb that was served on a bed of homemade Pappardelle pasta. It was a small "secondi" so every twirl of pasta in my fork was savoured. The dish left me wanting more and based on my taste memory and a quick scan of the internet, I was able to successfully recreate a wonderful dish that will make a lover of lamb out of anyone....sheepish (pun intended)!

Jamie Oliver has a game ragu recipe which makes for a good starting point but if you want something more concrete, take a look at Claudia's ragu at Cook Eat Fret.

Both Jamie and Claudia reinforced my taste memory of Gio's ragu and convinced myself that I would go in the right direction with my own take.

Ragu is Italian for meat sauce (not that awful jarred tomato sauce) and although the sauce comes together after a couple of hours, it's quite easy, ideal for that lazy Saturday or Sunday afternoon where you can turn up some tunes, open some wine and gracefully cook, drink and entertain at the same time.

On this occasion I also had the opportunity to once again put my new pasta machine to use and make some homemade Pappardelle (thicker than fettucine). There are tons of "how to" references on making homemade pasta so I'll only emphazise that the general rule is about 1 cup flour plus 1 egg for each pasta serving. Most recipes include olive oil, salt and some water in the mix.

Pasta dough is very forgiving and once you know you're way around your pasta machine, you'll be cranking out enough pasta to guraantee you a spot in carbohydrate heaven!



Ragu of Braised Lamb
(serves 6)
1 1/2 lbs. of lamb shoulder (bone in)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 carrots, fine dice
2 stalks of celery, fine dice
1 tsp. dry rosemary
1 bunch of thyme
3 bay leaves
4-5 allspice berries
2 cups of good tomato puree (passata)
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
3 sun-dried tomatoes, minced
1 1/2 cups of red wine
1 cup of beef, veal or lamb stock
1/2 cup cream grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste
homemade Pappardelle (or pasta of your choice)

1. Trim your lamb meat of excess fat but still leave some on. Season with salt & pepper and pre-heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown your lamb meat in batches and set aside and reserve.
2. Now lower your heat to medium and add your onions, carrots, celery, parsely and garlic and saute for about 1o minutes or until softened. Make a bouquet garni by rolling your bay leaves, thyme springs, rosemary and allspice berries in a tied cheesecloth ( I forgot to but YOU should) and add into the skillet.
3. Add your tomato paste and sundried tomatoes and stir in and cook for a couple of minutes. Now add your wine and simmer for another five minutes. Add your tomato puree (passata), pieces of lamb and stock and bring to a boil. Add some salt and pepper to taste and cover. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about an hour. Remove the lid and simmer for another 30 minutes.
4. You lamb meat should fall off the bone and be fork-tender. Remove the meat from the sauce and continue to simmer the sauce until you've achieved your desired consistency (I chose thick, for another 30 minutes.
5. Get a large pot of water boiling and get your pasta cooking. Separate the lamb meat from the bones and tear the meat into bite-sized pieces. When the sauce has thickened to your liking, the meat, cream and some grated cheese. Remove the bouquet garni and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
6. Add a good amount of salt to your water and boil dry pasta according to package's instructions or about 3-4 minutes for fresh pasta. Strain pasta and divide among the 6 bowls. Serve a heaping ladle of lamb ragu over the pasta and grate some Romano or Parmesan and a few turns of fresh ground pepper.
   

If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.blogspot.com then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author. © 2007-2009 Peter Minakis

Kampanoules With Peppers and Basil (καμπανούλες με πιπεριές και βασιλικό)

It's been awhile since I've posted a pasta dish. It's not that I haven't been eating pasta (I have) but I'm also not going to bore you with another Bolognese recipe or any other standard pasta dish that most of us regularly enjoy.

Instead, it's time to showcase another rustic dish, filling yet light on the pocket and the palate. Last year Misko of Greece sent me some samples of their Greek pasta and one of the more unique shapes were their "kampanoules" (καμπανούλες) or in English - "little bells".

The package reads that they are indigenous to the province of Thessalia, which sits between Macedonia and and Attica. The shape of this pasta also mimics the shape of the little bell-shaped flowers that grow wild on the mountainsides.

Enough with flowers, pasta tastes better, no?

This recipe comes from the side of the package of Kampanpoules. This is a simple dish, using only vegetables, herbs, olive oil and the pasta itself. I've made this dish a few times and it always satisfies me with it's fresh flavours and I never feel bad about eating a big bowl.

Another Greek cheese that's grated on top of pasta dishes is the aged, dry Myzithra. Myzithra comes fresh and aged and it's made like ricotta cheese (from the leftover whey).

Dry Myzithra comes in large, grapefruit sized balls, it's a hard and salty cheese. When grated it has the characteristics of a mild Romano.

Kampanoules With Peppers and Basil (καμπανούλες με πιπεριές και βασιλικό)
(for 4)

2 cups or 500gr. of "καμπανούλες"
1 cup of diced tomatoes (fresh or canned)
1/3 cup olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 small red onion, diced
1 cup of fresh button mushrooms, sliced
1 green pepper (banana or cubanelle), sliced
1 red pepper, sliced
1/3 cup pitted black olives, rough chop
1 cup of fresh basil, chiffonade
Grated dry Myzithra cheese

1. Place a large pot of water on your stovetop and bring to a boil. Add a good amount of salt and cook your pasta (kampanoules) for 10-13 minutes.
2. In a large skillet, add your olive oil over medium heat and add the onions and garlic and saute for a couple of minutes. Now add your mushrooms, tomatoes and peppers and simmer for about 8-10 minutes over medium-low heat. Add the chopped olives and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
3. When your pasta is cooked, drain it and add to the sauce along with your basil and toss to coat all the pasta with the sauce.
4. Divide pasta into four plates and grate the dry Myzithra over each serving.
   

If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.blogspot.com then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author. © 2007-2009 Peter Minakis

Heads & Tales: Kefi in New York

During my stay in New York, my days were occupied by sightseeing (nothing too touristy) and the evenings were for dining and meeting new friends.

My stay in New York and the exploration of the Greek food scene wouldn't be complete without tasting the creations of Michael Psilakis.

Michael has appeared on Iron Chef America and he currently is part owner of Anthos and Kefi. Anthos is on the high end of the menu scale and Kefi is smaller but in no way inferior, quality-wise.

Once again, my Greek food and drink guide Konstantine suggested we meet at Kefi, located on West 79th (Upper West Side) and sample an array of the dishes.

Michael Psilakis was not here on this night but the staff accomodated us immediately with a table despite the packed lobby and lack of avaialable seating. Kefi will be moving to a new location soon and this problem should be resloved soon.

What does Kefi mean? The literal translation is "fun" but that really doesn't describe Kefi. Kefi is spirit, triumph, joy, adrenalin, the state of being aware of experiencing a good time, a celebration of being Greek, with good friends, food and drink, laughter, emotion, sentiment and finally...something only a Greek can really feel.

If you're a Greek reading this, you know what I mean and to others...go out with your Greek friends and ask them to tell you when "that moment" of Kefi has been reached...maybe then you'll understand.

From the waiting area to the farewell, Kefi's ambiance was laid-back, down-to-earth and unpretentious. The dining area is small and below street level but with such close quarters, one makes easy friends with the table beside you and conversations on food & wine can be easily engaged.

Constantine and I imbibed on a wonderful Vatistas Malagouzia and our other fave, the Pavlou P62 Syrah/Xinomavro with our parade of meze-sized dishes at Kefi.

For in New York or some of you who would like to enjoy some Greek food in the area, Kefi will offer you the greatest bang for your buck out of all the Greek establishments in Manhattan. Do not think in any way think that quality or portions are compromised.

Remember, this is a Michael Psilakis joint...the dishes were traditional but offered wonderful Greek twists with the ingredients. One dish after another was relished by Konstantine and I and a highlight of the night was the braised pulled rabbit meat tossed in hand-made pasta with a sauce reminiscent of a Rabbit (or hare) Stifado.

The first dish to arrive was the fried sweetbreads in creamy wine sauce with spinach, sage and crispy fried onions. The sweetbreads were paired wonderfully with one of Konstantine's new brands...a Vatistas Malagouzia from Monemvasia. Malagouzia is another grape varietal that's unique to Greece and I'll be touching upon this wine in a future post (it was awesome).

Next up was the grilled octopus on a bed of warm chickpea salad.

We sampled the Pork Sofrito medallions with shaved fennel, capers, olives and some orange slices.

Grilled lamb chops were ordered on the insistence of our server and boy was I glad he recommended these!

The crowning glory had to be the Pulled Braised Rabbit on a bed of homemade pasta which turned out to be the perfect accompaniment to our Pavlou P62 red.

This Syrah/Xinomavro took on a whole new aroma and taste when paired with the rabbit in a aromatic, spicy Stifado sauce. A stifado's has a noticeable presence of cinnamon and when paired with the P62, for the first time I was smelling notes of chocolate and black cherry in the wine...remarkable experience!

My evening at Kefi was a smash...wonderful food, good conversation at the table (and with the table beside us), unforgetable wine pairings with the food and laid-back but prompt and cheerful service from the staff.

This week, I had to re-experience that zen-moment when I ate the Braised Pulled Rabbit and sipped on the Pavlou Estate P62. I've recreated a dish that packs much of the flavours I experienced in Kefi's version but I used a whole chicken to make a Stifado.

A Stifado is a Greek stew that is tomato based, has the presence of red wine, an array of spices that almost always includes cinnamon and the usual suspect in the dish is rabbit or hare. Other popular stifados are made with rooster, beef or veal and octopus.

The other dominant ingredient is onions...plenty of onions which play very well when slow cooked with the meat of choice, blending with the spices to perfume your kitchen & home into something remarkably intoxicating and transporting you and your home to a Greek kitchen.

The dish I'm about to show you is usually made with a rooster but I'm no where near a farm and Stouffville Market is only open on weekends. This dish is inspired by my evening at Kefi and it's also reminiscent of a popular dish from the Greek island of Folengandros called "Matsata".

Imagine trying this dish on the island...farm fresh rooster, wild thyme from the mountains of the island, Greek red wine and spices that entered Greek cuisine from the time that Greek mariners ruled the Mediterranean and the spice trade in the area.

Finally, this may sound cliched but the pasta in this dish was homemade by myself after finally splurging on my own pasta machine. After fumbling the first few times with the machine, I finally was able to produce long, elastic ribbons of fresh egg pasta that cooked in minutes and truly heightened the dish. I may become a pasta snob!

Matsata (Ματσάτα)
(serves 4)

1/3 cup olive oil
1 whole chicken (or rooster), cut into pieces
1/2 onion, grated
1 cup of pearl onions
2 large onions, sliced
3 cloves of garlic, smashed
1/4 cup Balsamic vinegar
3 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
1 some grated nutmeg
1 heaping Tbsp. of tomato paste
2 cups of pureed plum tomatoes
1 cup of dry red wine
2 tsp. of fresh thyme leaves
salt and pepper to taste
fresh made broad pasta
grated Kefalotyri cheese (Romano is fine)

1. In a large skillet, add your olive oil to medium high heat. Add your pearl onions and quickly saute until they have slighted caramelized. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Now season your chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown off your meat over medium heat and then reserve.
2. Now grate add your grated onion, sliced onions and garlic and saute over medium-low hea for about 7-10 minutes or until softened. Now add the balsamic vinegar and stir to lift up the brown bits and coat all the onions. Reduce for a minute or two.
3. Now add the bay leaves, whole cloves, cinnamon stick, tomato paste and red wine over medium heat. Now bring up to a boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Add your tomato paste, pureed plum tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add your fresh thyme and your reserved chicken pieces, pearl onions and reduce heat, cover (slightly ajar) and simmer for about 45-60 minutes, sitrring occasionally.
   
4. At this point, you should have a thick, aromatic sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, grate some fresh nutmeg and set aside and keep warm.
5. Boil some fresh, broad pasta and when cooked to al dente, strain toss with some of the tomato sauce, tear some meat off the bone and mix in with the pasta and the sauce.
6. Place a mound of dressed pasta on each plate, place a piece of chicken on top and grate some fresh Kefalotyri cheese on top.
   
7. Serve this warm, aromatic dish with a Pavlou P62 Xinomavro-Syrah.
   

Miskotini With Feta

I've been enjoying Greek-made pasta of late. The folks at Misko who make an array of pasta were kind enough to send me samples of their Greek pasta varieties.

Most Greeks will acknowledge we didn't invent pasta but most Greeks will assure you (and demonstrate if you like) their love of eating pasta.

I'll be heading off to New York City tomorrow but upon my return, I plan to showcase some more Greek pasta dishes. We have noodles from Asia, everyone loves Italian pasta, the Spanish have been enjoying in for ages and the Greeks round-out the roster with age-old dishes, enjoyed by generations.

One such combo is a simple delight of eating pasta with Feta cheese. I can remember my mom boiling some spaghetti, browning some butter and finishing the dish off with some crumbled feta.

I'd assume most Greek families enjoy this quick, easy and delicious dish and yes, it's been done for awhile...for as long as feta has existed.

For anyone who's bought a large quantity of feta, you'll know that crumbled pieces of Feta are usually to be found at the bottom, when you've reached your last slab of cheese.

With Greeks pursuit to "waste not - want not"...even those lonely last remaining feta pieces get consumed...for pasta with Feta!

You may certainly crumble your own Feta to make this easy dish but this is a frugal dish that stretches the ingredients boundaries...using those last bits of feta at the bottom.

The most common approach to this dish is browning some butter, adding the cooked spaghetti in to the skillet and tossing the crumbled Feta which slightly melts and coats the pasta with Feta goodness.

Here, I've upped the ante by adding some roasted garlic, cream, black pepper, parsley and some Greek oregano into the mix.

As soon as you toss the ingredients into the boiled pasta and smell the aroma from the skillet, you'll know this is a winner!

Miskotini With Feta
(serves 4)

500 gr. packet of Miskotini pasta
4 cloves of roasted garlic
approx. 200gr. crumbled Feta
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp. dried Greek oregano
salt and pepper to taste
some reserved pasta water

1. Get a large pot of water to boil. Add a good amount of salt and cook your pasta according to package instructions.
2. In a small saucepan or "briki", add your cream and roasted garlic and mash it into the cream. Add the crumbled Feta and over medium low heat, stir until most of the cheese has melted and melded into the cream. Turn heat off and keep warm.
3. When your pasta is cooked, reserve some pasta water and drain the pasta. Pour the pasta back into the pot, add the Feta/cream mixture and toss to coat. If the sauce is too dry, add some pasta water.
4. Now continue to toss by adding the chopped fresh parsley and dried Greek oregano and adjust seasoning with some ground black pepper (salt rarely needed).
5. Serve immediately.
   

Lobster Pasta (Αστακομακαρονάδα)

Any Greek, be it in Greece or abroad will attest that they recall growing up and eating Misko brand pasta.

Misko began making pasta in 1927 in Pireaus by the Mihailidis and Konstantinis families. To this day, Misko is the pre-eminent maker of pasta in Greece.

I've begun using Misko more often as I've found the product more readily available in the international section of my local supermarket. Oh sure, I can also head down to Toronto's Greektown for it but I could literally walk to the supermarket and pick-up a few packages of Misko.

For those living in Canada, you can find Misko at the Loblaw Superstore in your neighborhood or at at most Greek food marts selling products imported from Greece.

The same holds true for those elsewhere. If you're looking for Greek ingredients...a good place to start is in the Greektown in your city or town. Ask them for Misko.

No Greektown where you live? Surely there are Greeks living there? Greeks are everywhere! Ask a Greek where they buy their ingredients and they'll be all too glad to share their source.

Still out of luck finding some Greek ingredients? The internet is your friend. Buying something like pasta is easy and non-perishable. Pasta transports well and you have no fear of receiving a damaged, expired or spoiled product.

Again, I'm using the Misko # 5 spaghetti, the type with the hollow middle. This is the traditional pasta Greeks serve most often and it's the one I usually see used when lobster pasta is served.

If you'll recall, I've mentioned Astakomakaronada (lobster pasta) in previous posts. The first time I saw this dish being served was on Mykonos and it appears to be on menus on most of the Greek islands and on menus of finer tavernas on the mainland.

This past summer, I saw Astakomakaronada being sold by the kilo...80-90 Euros a kilo!!! Boy am I glad I tried this simple yet succulent dish in the early days when Greece's national currency was the Drachma and splurging on meals like this were easier on the wallet.

Back here in Canada, we're blessed with Atlantic lobster, usually trapped off the shores of Nova Scotia and transported live to Toronto and imported around the world.

I've been finding very affordable live lobster and when I can get it at $6.99/lb., I have no guilt in enjoying the "bug of the sea"!

Here, I have for you the authentic recipe for a Greek Astomakaronada. Transport yourself to Greece and think of days spent on the beach and evenings watching the sunset and the moon rise while the warm Aegean breeze tickles your skin.

The taverna is alive, Greeks and tourists dining together, time stands still, no worries but where to lay on the beach and what to order the next day off the next taverna down the road's menu.

Lobster Pasta (Αστακομακαρονάδα)
1 serving

1 lobster 1 to 1 1/2lbs
1 handful of Misko #5 pasta
1 pad of butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup diced red onions
1 large clove of garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. finely diced celery
2 Tbsp. finely diced carrots
1/2 cup plum tomatoes, pureed
OR 1 large ripe tomato, passed through grater
1 tsp. of tomato paste
1 small bay leaf
splash of dry white wine
splash of Metaxa (Greek brandy)
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill
pinch of ground cinnamon
salt and pepper to taste

1. Place a large pot of water on the stovetop and bring to a boil. When the water's boiling, add a good amount of salt, take your lobster out of the fridge (in the fridge they are asleep/dormant) and drop the lobster into the water, head first. Boil for 4 minutes and then blanche in cold water to stop the cooking process.
2. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, place a cutting board inside a baking tray so that when you cut the lobster up, you can reserve the lobster's juices. Tear the claws and knuckles off the body and then the tail. Cut the tail lengthwise in half (leave tail shell on, devein) and crack open the claws and knuckles to remove the meat. You may also use a rolling pin to extract the meat inside the walking legs. I also scoop out and use the roe if I'm lucky to have a female. Reserve any part of the shells that you like for garnish and pour the reserved juices of the lobster into a bowl.
3. Bring another pot of water to bowl and add salt. Add your Misko #5 pasta and cooking for 8-10 minutes.
4. In a sauce pan, add your butter and olive oil over medium heat and add your onions, garlic, carrot, celery and bay leaf and saute for about 5 minutes or until the onions are soft and translucent (do not burn). Add the tomato puree, tomato paste, reserved lobster juices and wine and bring to a boil and then reduce down to a simmer (medium-low heat). Simmer for 5-10 minutes or until you've achieved a thick, rich sauce.
5. Now add the Greek brandy and pieces of lobster into the sauce and stir to coat the lobster meat for a couple of minutes. Cover, take off the heat and keep warm. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and remove the bay leaf.
   
6. When your pasta is ready, drain and add to the lobster sauce along with your chopped fresh dill and pinch of ground cinnamon.
7. Carefully toss the the lobster and sauce to coat the pasta and serve immediately in a lobster bowl or platter. Drizzle with some extra-virgin olive oil and enjoy!
   

Lia's Spinach Carbonara

With autumn taking a firm grip on the weather, thoughts and memories wander back to my summer vacation in Greece. There's Greek countryside, the sea, the people, friends and family.

Most of my mom's side of the family lives there and this is one of the important reasons why I go back to Greece as often as I do.

My first cousin Lia (see the resemblance) is also blessed with being raised and fed by a wonderful cook, my Theia (aunt) Angeliki (my mom's sister).

Each year I make my pilgrimage back to my parents' home town and I always stay at Lia's house. This year, my Theia Angeliki was at my family's summer home so, Lia was left with the cooking duties.

I arrived into Amynteo by train from Thessaloniki...just in time for lunch. Lia had prepared a surprising and delicious meal of Spinach Carbonara.

This is a such an easy and wonderful departure on the classic carbonara but it injects some hearty, healthy spinach into the mix (good way to sneak some greens in for your kids).

I've made this dish twice already...once using thawed frozen spinach and also with fresh baby spinach, wilted at the very end when tossing the sauce together. Either approach works wonderfully.

I'm delighted to share my cousin's recipe of Spinach Carbonara with you...it's quick, it's easy, it's filling and in a usual Kalofagas way, delicious!

Lia's Spinach Carbonara
(serves 4)

1 package (500gr.) dry linguine
12 strips of bacon
4 handfuls of thawed frozen spinach, squeezed of excess water
OR
6 cups of fresh baby spinach, rinsed & pat dry
4 eggs yolks
1/2 cup of heavy cream
1/2 cup grated Kefalotyri cheese
lots of cracked black pepper
4 cloves of garlic, smashed
1/2 cup of red onions, diced
1/4 cup dry white wine
some pasta water
some extra grated Kefalotyri (or Romano) cheese

1. Place a large pot of water on your stovetop and bring to a boil. Add a good amount of salt and cook your pasta as per package instructions. In a small bowl, whisk your egg yolks, cream, grated cheese and black pepper and set aside.
   
2. Chop your strips of bacon into bite-sized pieces and place in a large skillet. Add about a 1/3 cup of water and bring to a boil. The water will help render the fat in the bacon and eventually leave you with crispy bacon. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Remove excess bacon fat or add some olive oil if the skillet is too dry.
3. Add your onions and smashed garlic and saute for 2-3 minutes over medium-low heat while stirring. Now add the wine and keep on stirring to deglaze and release the brown bits from the bacon. Reduce until there's almost no liquid left, take off the heat and reserve.
4. As soon as your pasta is cooked, reserve some pasta water and drain the pasta. Add the pasta back into the skillet, along with the bacon, egg/cream mixture and your spinach. Begin tossing and folding the sauce into the pasta. If your sauce is too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water and continue to coat. Your sauce should cook and thicken from the residual heat of the pasta. If the sauce is too loose, place your skillet under very low-heat and keep tossing the sauce & the pasta until it thickens.
5. Plate the pasta with some more cracked black pepper and have some grated cheese available at the table.

Aromatic Giouvetsi (γιουβέτσι με αρωματικά)

When you get this dish simmering down, you'll understand exactly why I call this version "aromatic giouvetsi".

This version is not a family recipe as my mom's versions usually just employes bay leaves and sometimes allspice berries. Here, a quadruple kick of spices sends the aroma and flavour of this traditional dish to new heights.

You all know of that kitchen aromatherapy when the apple pie is resting on the window sill? This aromatic giouvetsi offers up that same experience only here it's the savory experience.

It's not hard to find this dish if you're dining in Greece. Many tavernas that cater to locals and tourists will often have a giouvetsi on the menu.

It's a bonus when it's baked in these individual earthenware pots or "gastres". Like in any country, there's good food and bad food to be had.

Try & find out where the locals go and you're off to a good start. As for giouvetsi, if you're looking for this version, let your nose show you the way. This dish has bay leaves, allspice berries, cloves and cinnamon.

I like to call this "Greek four spice" blend and if you add ground black pepper....ya have a Greek five-spice blend.

If you can't make it to Greece just yet...relax, jot down this recipe or add some paper to your printer and the HP inkjet will do the work.

If you can't find the eartherware pots, a family-style serving in a casserole dish is also standard fare back in Greece.

Enough chit-chat...let's eat!

Aromatic Giouvetsi (γιουβέτσι με αρωματικά)
(serves 4)

1.5 lbs. of veal, large pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
2 large, ripe tomatoes or
1 1/2 cups of plum tomato puree
1 large onion, grated
3-4 cloves of minced garlic
1 Tbsp. of tomato paste
2-3 bay leaves
4-5 allspice berries
4-5 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
enough veal stock or water to cover the meat
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup of elbow macaroni per serving
butter
grated Kefalotyri cheese (or a Pecorino Romano)

1. Rinse and pat-dry your pieces of veal. Season with salt and pepper and pre-heat a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and brown your pieces of veal.
2. Now fill the the pot with enough veal stock (or water) to just cover the meat. Now add your grated onions, tomato puree, paste, garlic, and all the spices and bring to a boil. Add some salt and pepper and cover with the lid slightly ajar and simmer until you left with a thickened sauce (about 45 minutes). Adjust seasoning with salt & pepper, remove the spices with a slotted spoon and reserve.
3. Get a large pot of water boiling, add a good amount of salt and cook your elbow macaroni as per package instructions. You should now pre-heat your oven to 400F.
   
4. When the pasta is done, strain and add back to the pot and stir in some butter to coat all the macaroni. Now add 3/4 of the tomato sauce and toss to coat.
5. Spoon the macaroni into the individual "gastres" (earthenware vessels) or pour into a casserole dish and place the pieces of veal on top. Pour the remaining sauce over top along with a drizzle of olive oil and some more fresh ground pepper. Place the "gastres" on a baking tray in your pre-heated over for about 10 minutes or until just slightly golden.
6. Remove your tray of giouvetsi and allow to cool for a couple of minutes.
7. Serve immediately with some grated Kefalotyri cheese (Romano works fine).
   

Tagliatelle of Wild Mushrooms

One of the most wonderful ingredients in the fall has to be mushrooms. Many people's tastes change but ever since my childhood I've love mushrooms.

Here in Canada, Gordon Ramsey's the "F-Word" is now showing and although it's been viewed in the UK for a few years now, it's finally reached our shores.

The "F-Word" stands for food and clearly the intention of the show is to show the kinder, smiling and more cordial Gordon Ramsey to the public.

I'm of the belief that the personalities that appear on television as nicey-nices are usually A-holes in person and the "bad guys" on TV are really the calm, friendly and cordial ones.

I've heard from many sources that Gordon Ramsey is kind in interviews, always signs autographs for fans and even takes a moment for a little chit chat. I've heard little flattering about more "popular" food celebs.

So, the "F-Word" also shows more of Gordon Ramsey's cooking and earlier this week I was captivated by a mushroom & pasta dish he cooked up in his restaurant.

He used a mixture of fresh wild mushrooms but knowing that this could be out of reach for many, I've taken a more accessable route to reproducing this recipe.

Last night I used a combination of Cremini, Oyster and dried Porcini mushrooms. If you have access to fresh Porcini...please go ahead and enjoy them but for most of us, the dried variety are easier to find and here and one even gets some mushroom stock out of it!

This dish is easy on the sauce but large on flavour. As one diner at Gordon's restaurant attested, "you can taste each ingredient with each bite" and that's what I was going for here.

Let the ingredients come out, keep the cream to a minimum and enjoy this aromatic, flavourful and hearty pasta dish.

Note: the Oyster mushrooms are added towards the end as they are very delicate, do not take long to cook and become tough (like seafood) if overcooked.

Tagliatelle of Wild Mushrooms
(for 4)

4 Tbsp. olive oil
4 pads of butter
3 large scallions, chopped
3 cloves of garlic, smashed
1 ounce of dried Porcini mushrooms
1 cup of chopped Cremini mushrooms
1/2 cup Oyster mushrooms, stem removed and chopped
(rinsed if gritty)
1 tea cup of hot water
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups of chicken/vegetable broth
1 500gr. package of Tagliatelle
(plus reserved pasta water)
4 Tbsp. of chopped fresh parsley
4 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
splash of heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste
shaved Parmesan cheese

1. Place your dried Poricnis in a tea or coffee cup and fill with boiling water, Cover with a saucer and allow to steep for at least 15 minutes. In the meantime, place a large pot of water on your stovetop. When it comes to a boil, add your salt and pasta and cook to under "al dente" or about 5 minutes. Drain and reserve.
2. In a large skillet, add your olive oil and butter over medium-high heat and add your scallions, garlic and Cremini mushrooms and saute for 3 -5 minutes. Add the wine, reduce to medium-low and simmer until most of the wine has evaporated.
3. Now add your re-hydrated Porcinis, the Porcini broth and your stock and bring to a boil. Now lower to medium and simmer for another 5-7 minutes (reduced to about half).
4. Add your chopped Oyster mushrroms, half of your chopped tarragon and parsley and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Saute for a couple of minutes while stirring, remove the cloves of garlic and reserve and keep warm.
   
5. Add your pasta into the mushroom sauce along with a splash of heavy cream, the remaining chopped parsley and tarragon and toss over medium-low heat (if yor sauce is too dry, add some pasta water). Keep tossing until the sauce has thickend and is absorbed by the pasta.
6. Serve in bowls immediately and top with shaved Parmesan cheese.
   

Clams Tossed in Herbs and Spaghetti

As the cooler months approach in Greece, the availability of shellfish also increases. Greece has it's own mussels, scallops, cockles, razor clams and the subject of today's dish, clams.

Some of you may not have a good source (or any source) of fresh seafood so if you have to, use canned clams but to capture the true essence of this dish one should use fresh, live clams.

There's something magical about live shellfish. The liquor or broth that's released when the shells open up is something akin to culinary magic.

This is a simple, straightforward recipe...just the herbs, wine, some spices and the clam liquor offering up straight-ahead seafood flavour.

For this dish, I used four herbs...oregano, thyme, rosemary and parsley but you may certainly shake-up the herb combo to your liking.

For many of us in the northern hemisphere, we are still blessed with some mild weather and you may have some fresh herbs left in your garden that are begging to be used up.

Go to your nearest fish monger and pick up some fresh clams or mussels.

Cervantes once said, "hunger is the best sauce" but I think this one comes in a close second!

Clams Tossed in Herbs and Spaghetti
(for 4)

1 kg. of fresh clams
2 tsp. of fresh oregano, finely chopped
1 tsp. of dry Greek oregano
1 tsp. of fresh thyme
1 tsp . of fresh rosemary, finely chopped
4 Tbsp. of chopped fresh parsley
1 medium onion, diced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1/3 cup olive oil
2-3 chillis
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 500gr. pkge. of spaghetti

1. Place your clams in a strainer and rinse under cold water. Now place in a bowl and cover with some cold water and add about 1/3 cup of corn flour and let them soak for about 20 minutes. The clams are still alive and as they breath, they still filter water and sand out of their shells. Much of the sand will stick the the corn flour and sink to the bottom of your bowl. Just before you are ready to cook your clams, rinse them again under cold running water and strain.
2. Place a large pot of water on your stove top and bring to a boil. Now add a good amount of salt and your spaghetti and cook as per package instructions.
3. Place a large skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil, onions, garlic and smoked paprika and saute for 3-5 minutes for the onions to soften a bit.
4. Now add your clams, chillis, dry & fresh oregano, thyme, rosemary and white wine and cover and turn the heat to high. Allow your clams to steam for about 5-7 minutes. Your clams should be ready when they have all opened (discard any unopened clams).
5. Strain your pasta and add it into the skillet with the clams and toss along with your chopped fresh parsley.
6. Adjust seasoning with additional red pepper flakes, salt (usually not required) and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
7. Plate and serve immediately.