10 Wardrobe Essentials

S.W.A.P. (sewing with a plan), 5-piece wardrobe, 10 essentials...all ways of creating pieces to build a versatile wardrobe so you don't have to stand in your closet and cry out "I have nothing to wear!"

I have read one of Tim Gunn's earlier books and decided it wasn't a keeper for my ever-expanding library of sewing and fashion.  I am intrigued, however, by the idea of sewing with a goal in mind instead of randomly selecting pieces like I usually do.  There aren't any real surprises on this 10 essentials list by Tim Gunn but I enjoy him on Project Runway so let's give him credit for a great list.

You can view the whole list on InStyle here.

1. Little Black Dress:  I don't have one.  I know, it's shameful.  Every time DH says we have an event to go to, I fail to plan ahead and then find myself at said event wishing I had a basic black dress to wear for these occasions.
2. Trench Coat:  I actually have a beautiful trench I bought several years ago but it no longer fits.  Darn coat must have shrunk.... Oh well, time for another.
3. Classic Dress Pants:  I have 3 pairs I purchased from Eddie Bauer some time ago.  I'm slowly getting around to hemming them.  They are nice and fit pretty well but I want a perfectly fitting pair of pants so I'll add these to the list.
4. Versatile Skirt:  What instantly comes to mind is a basic skirt, solid color or very subtle pattern.  After looking at Tim Gunn's selection, I see that an interesting pattern would be a better choice.  A statement skirt.
5. Fitted Blazer:  As I am currently going on job interviews, I needed a jacket that fit superbly and I needed it now.  I was shocked to find some RTW jackets that fit beautifully.  Jones New York, I should've known.  I've always admired the look of their jackets.  I do have a smart-looking Vogue Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture pattern I've been dying to make so now's the time.
6. Classic White Shirt:  I LOVE white shirts!  Tees, button-downs, doesn't matter; white looks great next to my skin.
7. Day Dress:  Tim says this is not a cocktail dress alternative; more like a shift, wrap or shirt dress.  I have several fantastic shirt dress patterns and a few knit wraps that I'd love to make.
8. Cashmere Sweater:  Can't sew this one...or can I?  I see great sweater knits online all the time.  I did have a cashmere sweater once and I wore it at least once a week.  Cashmere has the bonus of being as soft as angora without covering you with hair.
9. Perfect-Fit Jeans:  Amen to that!  This may be my holy grail if I could ever find or make a pair.  
10. Alternative to the Sweatsuit:  "Casual with sophistication."  I have to think about this for a bit.  I don't wear sweatsuits but I have some black knit pants and baggy T-shirts that are so comfortable.  What would be as comfortable and significantly more flattering?

Now for the patterns....

Butterick 5321:  With short sleeves, can be worn in warm weather and with a jacket for cooler temps or cold rooms.  I wonder if the inverted pleat at the waist would be a good belly and hip minimizer.  
 


McCall's 5525: The classic trench, perhaps with the Peter Pan collar



Vogue 7881: classic dress pants


Simplicity 2367:  Skirt in an interesting fabric or a solid with some contrasting topstitching


Burda 7618:  Not THE essential blazer but in the right fabric, this jacket could be quite versatile.


New Look 6598: I've had this pattern for many years. This pattern deserves better than to waste away in my stash.


Simplicity 2403: Not the double-breasted version




Vogue 1034


For my alternative to sweatpants:  I think I actually need 2 kinds of alternatives.  One type of outfit that I could run out to the store in and not look like a bum.  Another type for lounging around the house.  

Alternative #1: 
Vogue 1197


Alternative #2:
Butterick 5216: Views C and D can hide the belly and if I add some discrete coverage to the front bodice, I can skip the bra. Bras are evil.


Simplicity 2367:  The pants or capris


Of course, the essentials only work if you have the right accessories. This is where I am in need of serious help. Tackling one area at a time....

An experiment in productivity

I've written about trying to make better use of my free time for sewing but I've never found the "trick."  Truth is, I'm lazy when it comes to free time.  I'm an efficient, organized person at work and a complete mess at home.  Tilly had a neat idea to compile a list of our productivity pitfalls.  I'm going to participate by airing all my dirty laundry for the next 2 weeks.  Of course, now that I'm logging how I spend my time, I'm sure I'll clean up my act a little bit (kinda like dieters who eat better when they keep a diary).  Maybe that is my trick, keep a log.  Here goes....

• How many hours per day/week do you sew?

Ummm, none in 2 weeks.  Does reading about sewing count?

• What are you spending/wasting the rest of your free time on?

Computer and books, mostly.  A group of ladies and I just started the Chattanooga chapter of the American Sewing Guild and I was coerced into being the president.  I've been making a lot of arrangements for this group.  I also have been reading about starting my own sewing business and researching ideas and resources for that.

• When you do sew, how do you feel before, during and afterwards?

I don't recall how I feel before I sew but I definitely feel energized when I sew, like I have a very important task to complete.  As I get close to finishing, I can hardly sit still in my chair because I'm excited to finish a project.  Afterwards, I feel like I've accomplished something and I admire my work proudly.  I probably spend a bit too much time admiring it.

• What factors are you aware of that impact upon when you make time to sew?

Somehow I found time to sew a few weeks ago when DH was expecting me to finish some curtains so he could hang them up over the weekend.  I think deadlines help; not wanting to let someone else down.  When DH comes home in the evening, I prefer not to sew because I see so little of him.  I should sew on Saturday and Sunday mornings because he sleeps in and I get up rather early.  Like right now, I'm blogging and generally goofing off on the internet instead of sewing.

• What are you learning about sewing productivity from this process, if anything? What tips can you share?

Do, don't think.  I'm a thinker.  I spend way more time thinking about stuff I want to do than actually doing them.  I'm also highly motivated by people's expectations.  I don't ever want to let someone down so I will work like mad to get something done on time.  Somehow my personal deadlines aren't nearly as important to me.

Still hookin'

Still hookin' with a crochet hook (not on the street).

I'm almost finished with crocheting my sister's presents.  I'll post them after February 22 so she doesn't get a sneak peek on this site.  I was searching the web for some free patterns and stumbled on some crochet blogs.  Some are so funny that I almost spit out my lunch because I was laughing so hard.  I have also found tons of amigurumi patterns online.  I'll admit I'm fascinated by the amigurumi technique.  Granted, many items fall into the why-would-you-bother category but others would make great gag gifts or fun toys for kids.  I'll hold onto the why-bother patterns for my later years.  My goal is to be the crazy lady on the block with purple hair, ridiculous housecoats and 20 cats.  Wouldn't a collection of crocheted tea cups and vegetable/fruit platters fit in nicely?

But I digress...the award for "So Funny I Almost Peed" goes to....

What Not to Crochet

Seriously, check that site out.  Who would crochet this stuff?!!

If you are looking for amigurumi patterns, this site delivers on a regular basis:  Free Amigurumi Patterns
Granted, there are some why-bother and what-the-hell patterns, but I enjoy browsing nonetheless. 

In case you're wondering if I've forgotten that this is a sewing blog, I haven't.  My mother, who doesn't read my blog or even know what a blog is, will probably receive some sewn tops/jackets from me for her birthday.  (Notice the word "probably"--gives me a an easy out if I fall behind and can't produce the gifts on time.)

I have a huge stash of fabric to purge but it just occurred to me that several of those fabrics, although not in good colors for me, are of good quality and possibly in better colors for my mother. 

My mother is a fan of baggie tops that fall below her hips and she loves turtlenecks and oversized button-front blouses.  It's difficult to sew clothes to fit someone who lives too far away to be available for an actual fitting.  I guess I'm lucky she prefers baggie clothes to fitted ones.  There were several contenders for her birthday present but I have narrowed it down to two.


Butterick 5467


View C is basically what she loves to wear but it doesn't have buttons and it is a tad shorter.  Somehow wearing a shirt open looks better when it doesn't have buttons, therefore, it is a jacket.  I have a pretty pink poplin or a light blue with white stripe broadcloth-like fabric to use for this.

Butterick 5254


Love, love, love this pattern!  Several different fabrics are suitable for this, including fleece.  I have a charcoal gray and a navy fleece; both with just enough yardage to pull off view A or view D.  I'd like to use a nice wool but I promised myself (and my husband) that I would shop from my stash only.  The pink poplin and blue broadcloth are also from my stash.  Heck, I even have threads, buttons, and interfacing!!

Keeping my fingers crossed that I finish at least one of these tops.  It would be nice to actually show you some sewing progress.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend!

-Julie

Threads Magazine is publishing a sewing book

You had to know this was coming...Threads editors are publishing a comprehensive sewing book.  It isn't just clippings from the past 20 years of Threads magazine either.  I was doubtful this book would be worth purchasing since a) I have so many books, and b) every comprehensive sewing book out there claims to have everything in it and they never do.  First off, this book already appears to have some nice diagrams and explanations of concepts that other books usually gloss over.  At this point in my sewing, I don't need those details because I've already figured it out but they would have been helpful 5 years ago.

There is a nice preview (meaning you can look at tons of the pages instead of just 5 pages) on the Taunton website.  After skimming the preview, I am intrigued but the section on threads is basic and inadequate as in most books.  The zippers chapter is much better than others; lots of photos of each type of zipper and an actual comparison of metal vs plastic vs coil teeth.  I've only seen one other author cover that in a book (Making Trousers for Men & Women by David Page Coffin).  There is an interesting section that describes measuring yourself to estimate how much yardage you need for a particular garment; nice idea for those that work without patterns or have no specific pattern in mind for a must-have fabric.

One gripe...all skinny, young models.  Where are all the REAL women?  If you need a model with wide hips, a large, round booty, and a stomach pooch, call me.  I'll show my crazy curves in exchange for a free copy of the book (and a lifetime subscription to Threads).

For more details on the book, check the Taunton website.  I'm on the fence about this one.  I'd like to see it in a bookstore first.  You know, sit down and basically skim every page in the book before I commit to buying it.  So as you are walking through Barnes & Noble, please don't trip on me.  I'll be the lumpy, curvy chick sitting on the floor because all the skinny, coffee drinkers took the chairs.

Threads Sewing Guide, available April 4, 2011

• Dimensions 9 3/16 x 10 7/8
• Pages 392
• Photos 1010
• Drawings 229

How many types of sewing machine needles are there???

I used to buy the Dritz Universal needles and use them for sewing any type of fabric.  But that was before I discovered my love of silks and knits.  Then I bought Dritz ballpoint needles.  Great for knits but I was still looking for something more appropriate for my silks.  Then I bought Schmetz Microtex.  Perfect!  But why are they so much more expensive than Dritz?  Now I found Organ and Klasse needles online.  And now I'm confused. 

I understand that certain fabrics need certain types of needles.  You should also buy needles based on the weight of the fabric.  Got that too but what's with all the different brands of needles?  Is any one really better than the other?  I have Singer sewing machines.  I know I don't need to buy the Singer branded needles but I don't know that the Schmetz I've been buying are any better than the Dritz.  The Schmetz packaging is certainly nicer than the Dritz and more expensive...so they are better, right?  Ugh....

I've searched high and low and it seems like it's a matter of what will work on your machine and what you like better.  There doesn't seem to be a clear consensus except that Organ is cheaper with good quality, Schmetz is more expensive but easier to find, and everything else is a toss up.  For instance, I still have a few Singer branded needles that came with my CG-590.  The "denim" needle supplied with the machine works well and fits perfectly.  The Schmetz "denim" needle won't even fit into the needle clamp...but it fits my Singer Esteem just fine and works great.  So I guess you are just S.O.L. if you buy a needle that should fit and doesn't. 

If anyone wants to sound off on this, please do because I'm lost.  In the meantime, I guess I'll stick to my plan to buy Schmetz when they are 50% off at Hancock's and JoAnn's or buy Organ/Schmetz in bulk online.  Why not buy the Dritz?  The packaging just isn't as pretty.  Weird, I know.

During my internet search, I did find several good references about sewing machine needles and even some good sources for bulk supplies.  Enjoy!

• For the history buffs...History of the Sewing Machine at the Museum of American Heritage
• Threads magazine articles:  Sewing Machine Needles--An Overview and Machine-Needle Know-How
• Every possible Schmetz needle described: Schmetz ABC Pocket Guide
• Description of Organ needle types by Diamond Needle Corp: Organ Needles
• Stores selling needles in bulk (in no particular order):
• AllBrands.com
• Schmetz (more expensive but better selection)
• Discount Embroidery Supply (can order less than 100 of each type)
• CTS USA
• Atlanta Thread & Supply Company

Lucy's Fabrics Close-out sale

Don't worry.  Lucy's Fabrics isn't going out of business but she is getting rid of her fabrics and will just sell trims in the future.  It's a shame because I like her linings and have bought several nice knits from her in the past.  Click here for details of what's on sale.  Bonus:  Save 30% off a fabric order of $100+ and as always, free shipping on orders over $75.

Attention Threads magazine subscribers!

Kudos to Ann from Gorgeous Fabrics for alerting everyone to this scam.  In case you don't read her blog (seriously? check it out!), here is the info:

Please do not pay billing or renewal notices from:
Publishers Billing Exchange in La Habra, CA
Publishers Billing Association in Las Vegas, NV
Magazine Billing Network in Reno, NV
Subscription Billing, LLC in Tarrytown, NY
Publisher's Distribution Services, Inc in Brea, CA
National Magazine Services, Inc in Elmsford, NY

The official Taunton Press notice is here.

Sale Alert: Connie Crawford, Fabric Depot, and JoAnn's

It's Friday, which means payday for some of you.  Here's where you should spend your money this weekend.

Today is the 25% off total purchase at JoAnn's Fabric Stores.  Coupons are in the sales flyer or in your email if you are on the list.  I believe Simplicity patterns are also $0.99 through the weekend.  Not that any of us need more patterns but that's never stopped me.

Hancock's has $0.99 Butterick patterns this weekend.

Fabric Depot is offering 30% off everything not already on sale.

Fashion Patterns by Coni is offering 20% off any DVDs, Patternmaking Made Easy book, or any pattern from her website (coupon code: APRIL20PERCENT).  I think this offer is only good for the email subscribers so you might need to register before using this coupon code.  It expires at the end of April.

I didn't get paid today but apparently I have $800,000 USD waiting for me in the form of a check to be delivered by UPS.  I only need to pay $150 to Stephen Efe to claim my money.  I'll get right on that.  SPAM!!!!!!!

Happy shopping!

Sale Alert: Denver Fabrics

Denver Fabrics is offering free shipping on orders over $40.  This offer expires on March 29, 2010.  Write "FREE SHIPPING" in the comments box.  They still have a bunch of fabrics on sale until March 22, 2010 too.

Sorry to enable...but fabric shopping is great retail therapy!

What is your favorite decade for fashion?

Don't get me wrong.  I'm pretty happy with today's fashions, particularly for sewing.  I've been toying with sewing some vintage fashions lately but I can't see myself wearing them.  I've bought several of the Butterick and Vogue reproduction vintage sewing patterns lately.









I just don't know when and where I would wear these.  I'm guessing I'll just have to make them and find excuses to wear them.  What I've noticed about several of the reproduction patterns available in stores right now is they include full skirts mostly.  If you're 64 inches tall with a VERY large rear, bulk on the bottom half is not a good idea.

I stumbled onto a vintage sewing pattern website today and realized I'm not even a huge fan of the 1940's and 1950's.  I love the 1930's!  From my brief internet "research," the fashion of the 1930s was impacted by the Great Depression and resulted in more conservative, womanly clothes.  Shoulders were emphasized, rayon became a popular fabric and the zipper was introduced.  Skirts were longer and more A-line and waistlines were returned to a more natural position.  Gloves were worn with evening and daywear.  (In today's germophobe society, those gloves would be a great idea!)  Bias cut was all the rage and Madeleine Vionnet was its master.



(Source:  www.metmuseum.org)

I found much within the 1930s that I would wear day-to-day.











Are you thinking what I'm thinking?  Exactly!  Time to find some books about 1930s fashion and pattern making.  Glad we're on the same page.

I ordered these today:

Pattern Making Drafting 1930s Lingerie Blouses Skirts & Sportswear Fashions



Fashions of the Thirties 476 Authentic Copyright Free Illustrations







(Source: amazon.com)

I wonder though...how glamorous do these fashions really look without the hat and gloves?  Purse and shoes, no problem but I don't wear hats and gloves are for winter only. 

What is your favorite decade for fashion?

Sewing but not posting....

I have been sewing quite a bit lately but given the choice between sewing or posting, I'll sew. In the meantime, there are about 15 posts in the works. Sounds like my sewing UFO pile!!

Here's what's coming:

• Buttonhole tutorials (1-step, 4-step, corded and universal buttonholer)
• Separate shirred elastic waistband tutorial
• Twin needle stitching troubleshooting
• Book reviews: Fit for Real People and Customize Your Sewing Patterns for a Perfect Fit
• Pattern reviews and completed projects: McCall's 5978 Double knit cardigans, McCall's 5248 cami and pajama pants, McCall's 5925 Very loose-fit dress, aka the "doomed nightgown"

As I predicted while cutting out McCall's 5925, this project was doomed. I hated it from the start but decided to push on. It sat on my desk, taunting me for weeks, stifling my sewing mojo. I decided to knock it out one night and never look at this pattern again. As all sewers know, that attitude will have you making really stupid mistakes and tossing the garment out.



What you are looking at here is the front and back yokes, self-lined and already sewn together. I was adding the top ruffled edges to the yokes and got my left and right mixed up. So now I have a left front ruffle stitched to a right front yoke.

This is what it is supposed to look like:



DH had a great laugh about this one but still thinks my disastrous petticoat is the ultimate mess-up. Yes, this garment could be fixed but I just didn't care enough to do that. The whole time I was working with the pieces and reading the directions, I kept thinking to myself, "There has to be a better way of doing this." It's not a bad pattern; just not a great one. It was only going to be a nightgown anyway.

I'll leave you with this great article by Susan Khalje; the first in a 2-part series. Working With Embellished Fabrics is a great teaser for her OOP book, "Bridal Couture," which she is now putting on CD-Rom. She has a nice way of making a seemingly difficult concept easy to understand so you have the confidence to try it yourself.