Grey coat - finished

Hi everyone,
Still massively busy and stressed out here but I have at least managed to fit in a bit of sewing.  I finished the grey coat - unfortunately far to late to be able to wear it this year.  Oh well, it'll just have to hang in the wardrobe until next May, unless someone whisks me off to a northern hemisphere holiday soon (hint hint).

Anyway, here it is...

I can't remember where I left you on this project but here is the bodice

The skirt with floating patch pockets...

 Bound seams on the inside of the skirt...

Super cute lining...

And a front and back view...Sorry, the sunlight is so harsh these pictures are a bit washed out.

 Sadly it is a little snug.  Those few kilos I have always battled have become a few more lately grrr.  I just don't have the energy to deal with it right now.

I'll do a proper review in the next couple of days.

In other news, I start another class tomorrow night.  It is with the same teacher as the corset class (yes, I will do a wrap up of that soon) but this time I will be learning about lingerie.

Featherweight Cardigan - Finally!

Wow, more than three weeks since I've posted anything.  I have not been terribly creative lately, I am making slow progress on the winter coat (which I have no need of until next May now!) and the corset (even though the class is finished - I promise I will update you on what we learned).  I am just very distracted lately and all my creative energies are occupied elsewhere.  I'll do my best to get back on the horse soon - I find it easier to manage the little stresses of everyday life better when I have an outlet!

In the meantime I finally blocked the Featherweight cardigan and here it is:

I have been a bit 'meh' about this cardigan since I finished it.  On the positive side the shape is nice and it's light and soft.  On the other hand I couldn't get the collar quite right (I cast off loose so it wouldn't seize up but now it's just kind of floppy) and it snags if I even think about a rough surface (I don't know why I imagined it wouldn't be fragile).  I can never work the pulls back into the fabric and it's starting to look a bit moth-eaten already.

Here's the back, you can see what I mean about the collar.

I have been looking forward to making the wispy cardi in the same yarn but a different colourway but now I am not so sure.  I have another project on the go so I don't have to decide right away but I guess my options are

1. buy another skein of yarn and work two strands together,
2. make the wispy cardi but substitute a different stitch that won't pull so easily (maybe all over moss stitch?), or
3. make something else entirely - like a huge lace shawl (and risk looking like a total nanna - not sure I am young and cool enough to pull of the 'casually wrapped handknit lace shawl' look)

So that's where I am at.  I'll try to work on the coat this weekend - I am nearly finished!

Floating patch pocket tutorial (picture heavy)

I am so far behind on posting it's ridiculous! My apologies but I have so much going on in my offline life ATM that blogging has fallen down my list a bit. Nothing bad I assure you, just distracting!


So I am foolishly making a winter coat in Spring, as I did a couple of years ago - I know, it's mad but I enjoy making coats. I guess I should move somewhere that I would get more than three months wear out of them a year! For this coat I am using Butterick 5145 - view B, with the pockets.

Today I am going to demonstrate my method of attaching patch pockets so they look like they float - no visible top stitching. I learned this technique from an ancient Australian Stitches magazine (probably at least 8 years ago now) and tried to demonstrate it here, but grey fabric with black lining and a crappy camera don't make it easy! I hope you can follow the process a bit better this time around. One thing I will say about this technique, don't try to understand it ahead of time, make a practice version and it will become clear - seriously it still does my head in to think it through!

These pockets are a little different because of the flap but a little thought allowed me to still attach them invisibly.

The pattern has you cut two pieces from the main fabric, stitch them RS together, turn them out and topstitch on to the coat. I started by cutting two pocket pieces from the main fabric and four from the lining FOR EACH POCKET.

On one of the main fabric pieces measure 2.5cm down from the foldline and cut across. This becomes the part of the flap that shows on the outside, you can discard the rest of the pocket piece. When the pocket is finished, 1.5cm will be on the inside of the pocket (the join is not right on the foldline) and 1cm will be the seam allowance to join it to the lining.

On both lining pieces, measure 0.5cm down from the foldline and cut across. You can discard the upper portions of these pieces and keep the 'bags'.

Join one lining piece to the flap with a 1cm seam allowance and press.

Place this piece RS together with the full pocket piece and stitch around the flap, only above the lining/flap join. Snip into the seam allowance, grade and clip your seams and turn the flap out - press well.

Next press down the 1cm seam allowance on the other lining piece and place it RS together with the lining piece already in place. Baste all three layers together with a long stitch.

Turn in your seam allowances, using the long stitch to draw in the corners and press really well (you will find it easier if there is a distinct edge crease made at this stage). I hand basted everything before pressing so I didn't get pin marks. Trim back your seam allowances to 1cm.

Put the pocket in place on your garment (remember the lining/flap join is not at the foldline).

Put an open-toed foot on your sewing machine and baste the pocket in place using a long, narrow zig zag (I used length 4.0 and width 2.0). With the 'zig' on the pocket edge and the 'zag' off it. Remove your hand basting from the pocket if you haven't done so already!

Now the tricky bit. Open up the pocket so all the layers are in your left hand and the garment is in your right. You can look in and see the folded in seam allowances. You want to get inside with your open-toed foot and sew those seam allowances down to the garment, as close as you can get to the pressed edge. It's a bit tricky, and definitely easier on a larger pocket. For obvious reasons you need a pocket with rounded corners for this technique. Just work your way around, a little at a time until you get to the other edge.

Now since the lining/flap join is 1.5cm down from the fold you will need to secure that last little bit, between the join and the foldline to the body of the coat. I topstitched little rectangles that would take the strain of putting my hands in the pockets. This stitching is the only bit that shows from the outside and it is completely concealed when you fold the flaps down.

All that remains is to secure the loose lining edge to the garment, concealing the seam allowances - this is the really clever bit and looks very nice. I did this by hand invisibly but you could also edgestitch it on the machine. Then give everything a final good press.

Finally sew on the button and you are done. No one else might realise how clever you are but you can feel smug every time you put your hand in that pocket!

I hope you find this useful, I think it give a more formal look to a casual style of pocket.

M5929 - Version three

As I mentioned previously I will eventually have four versions of this shirt.  This is version three.  I have previously in a floral with the ruffle, and the long sleeved version without the ruffle.  This version also skips the ruffle and has a different sleeve.

I was inspired by this image from the August 2010 Madison magazine.  You can barely see it but this shirt is by Boss Black and it retails for $329 Australian.  I reckon my version came in under $25 so you have to be happy with that!

Here is the front view.  I like the open neck a lot better than the traditional shirt neckline on me.  I find there is too much fabric in the upper chest and it never lies flat.  The stripe with white collar and cuffs reminds me of rich bankers (I said bankers).

Either side of the front band I added a 1cm strip of striped fabric cut on the bias.  I love how this turned out!  The only tricky bit is that you need to cut your bias bands perpendicular (at right angles) to each other not parallel (alongside), or you won't be able have both sets of stripes running up (or down).  Ask me how I know.  Fortunately my fabric was kinda reversible so I think I got away with it.

What I didn't get away with was working all the buttonholes on the wrong side - dammit!  I checked  twice and STILL did it wrong!  Now I can't wear this shirt with pants (I like everything to overlap the same way - call me crazy).  I can however wear it with skirts, and jeans if I was the type to wear a shirt like this with jeans!

I morphed the sleeve into an oop vogue sleeve with a traditional placket and french cuff.  I cut down the cuff so it doesn't fold back though.  I made the cuff links from a pair of shank buttons.  The purple dot is my disappearing marker that hasn't quite disappeared yet (it will).

I did a pretty good job on the cuffs if I do say so.  I used the David Coffin DVD for the first time and they came out great.

I also think the collar looks pretty good - collars with a stand are always a challenge for me.  Again I used the David Coffin DVD and am much happier than normal.

Just to round things out, here's the back.

You know I am thinking I am going to have to re-visit some of my fitting alterations.  I am just not getting the nice smooth finish I used to.  Any suggestions (other than 'get to the gym')?

So I have one more version of this shirt planned but I am going put it on hold to work on a coat and a jacket before the cold weather is gone for the year.  I am also starting a corset making class this week (I have done some corset making before but this is apparently a 'master class' so I will let you know how it goes) and I will be working on a toille for my friend Jess's wedding dress - which you will be pleased to know she is happy for me to blog about.  Not likely I'll be bored any time soon!

Spiral scarf - another knitting project

Today I am 'sick as a dog'!  It's just a head cold but it has knocked me flat on my back.  Unfortunately it decided to hit me right before I had to give a pretty important presentation yesterday - it was not my finest performance I'm afraid!

So I am home sick today and maybe tomorrow too if I don't improve significantly.  As vital as I am to the running of the State Government  (joke) I like my co-workers too much to share my germs with them.  It's opening night for my fella's first production in his new job tomorrow night so I hope I am well enough to go and support him.

But this is not a health blog, it's a sewing blog - although there has been a lot of knitting/crochet going on around here.  Of course that's mainly due to the fact I could not access my sewing room and/or most of my stash for the best part of three months after the house flooded.  Mercifully that's all fixed now but here's another knitting project if you can stand it.

I bought this pattern and yarn as a kit at the Craft and Quilt Fair, which I went to on my birthday this year. 
I have to say it was a bit disappointing this year and this was all I bought.  I started it the same day so therefore it has taken me more than two months to knit this in around other projects.  The pattern is the Spiral Scarf and the yarn is Quartet, both by Morris and Sons.

The ruffles are formed entirely by short rows, essentially the scarf is formed of many, many little wedges.  The yarn has soy in it and feels lovely and soft but the twist is a bit irregular with some very thick bits and very thin bits amongst a mainly even yarn  It's fine as long as you don't mind a few lumps.

It was an easy knit but boring, due to it being essentially garter stitch with 8ply yarn on 4.5mm needles.

I like how it came out and I got some compliments when I wore it to work the other day.  A success all around and another completed project to add to the tally.

M5929 - Take two

Apologies for cross posting here and at pattern review, I can be bothered writing the same thing in two different ways today!

This review is for McCall's 5929.

Pattern Description:
Fitted shirts A, B have darted front and back, front band, front ruffles and shaped hemline; shirt A has stand-up collar, below elbow length sleeves with sleeve band; shirt B has collar and collar band, full length sleeves with placket opening and cuffs; dresses A, B have sleeves gathered at cap and lower edge.

I made view B with the full collar and long sleeves but left off the ruffle.

Pattern Sizing:
I cut a 12 to the bottom of the armholes then graded to a 14 at the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I made this shirt last year for the PR wardrobe compettion without any problems. The review is here or you can see it here as well.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It might not seem like it but this is a very versatile pattern. This is the second time I've made it and it looks quite different. I have two more versions in the works as well. I am not usually one to use TNT patterns!

Fabric Used:
Stretch poly-cotton shirting. It was a bit of a bear to get the front bands on nicely since I cut them so the stretch ran lengthwise, but other than that it behaved quite nicely.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I altered for my short and narrow upper back and I probably should have made the cuffs a bit snugger (but didn't). I didn't need an fba so if you are petite in the bust (I am a C-D cup) you might want to look at the sizing in the front. On the other hand I don't like a lot of ease anyway so maybe it will be fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I will sew it again at least twice and yes I would definitely recommend it to others.

Conclusion:
It's boring basic shirt for work but everyone needs boring basics too.

Short rows explained

A couple of you have asked how I worked the short rows on the back of the dressage jacket.  It was my first time trying this so I pretty much fudged it, but I'll do my best to describe the process.  I admit the maths did give me a slight headache at the time but it wasn't really that hard, I just really over-think things!

The idea is that I have a sort of sway back, but above my waist not below it.  I usually tuck out between 1 and 2 inches on the centre back seam of my sewing projects so I wanted to get the same effect on the back of the cardigan.

First I figured out how many rows less I wanted in the middle of the back (it's sort of the opposite of normal short rows, where you are adding more eg. at the bust).  In this case it was only 6 rows (about an inch), when you do your calculation you will want this to be an even number, let's call it a (can you tell I work with statistics?). 

Each short row you work is actually a pair of rows (there and back) so you need to divide a by 2 to work out how many pairs of short rows to work, in my example this works out to be 3, we'll call it b.

Now, take the number of stitches in half the back (for example, full back=80 stitches therefore half back=40 stitches), continuing the theme we'll call it c.

Divide c by b+1 (example 40/(3+1)=10 stitches).  This is how long each of your short rows will be, from now on referred to as d.  The turns will be evenly spaced either side with a wider straight section in the middle.

Now, knit to the waistline and work the following (my example in brackets):
Short row pair 1: work d (10)stitches, turn and work back (or wrap and turn if that's your thing - it is mine).
Short row pair 2: work d*2 (20) stitches, turn and work back.
Short row pair 2: work d*3 (30) stitches, turn and work back.
Repeat until you have completed the required number of short row pairs (b).
Now work across the whole row and repeat the exact same short row process on the other side of the piece.

Here is my craptastic PowerPoint representation of how it looks so you can visualise the process.

Then finish the back as instructed.   Make sure when you measure the length of the back that you measure at the side seam rather than the centre back - otherwise your back will come out longer than your front!

The centre back of the cardigan will scoop upwards when it's laid flat but looks straight across when it's on the body. 

Of course this is easy on a simple pattern like stocking stitch or rib, but I I have a lace project in the queue and I am not sure if I'll be able to figure that one out!

I hope this helps, I really am not a knitwear designer so if I can do it anyone can! Good luck.

The Dressage Jacket - finished

Last Sunday I went to see Eclipse with my friend and regular movie-buddy Kate. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I am not a Twi-hard by any stretch and I don't particularly relate to any of the characters, but if you made me choose I would have to go for Edward (I can't resist a man with sideboards - lucky for me my fella wears them!). I have always loved vampire stories starting in my teens with the original novel Dracula, moving on through the Anne Rice vampire chronicles and I am currently reading the Vampire Academy Novels - so vampire movies are always on my 'to see' list. Plus I love the clothes they put Alice in,! Isn't this coat/smock from New Moon cute?

Image from here.

But the point of this post is not a movie review but a cardigan review. Yes, that's right the Dressage Jacket is finished and has had it's first public wearing.

The yarn:
Sublime aran by Sirdar. The colour is 'wicker'. This yarn feels beautiful to knit with, very smooth and soft, and no splitting. However, there is something you should know. When I blocked the pieces (soaked them in tepid water with wool mix, gently lifted them out and rolled in a towel then patted to shape) they GREW. A lot. The technical diagram for the cardigan shows a finished length of 49cm, I admit I didn't measure before blocking so it may have started out a bit longer than this but after blocking it is now 69cm! it also grew in width but it's hard to measure with the rib. Let's just say before blocking I was thinking it might be a bit tight and now I certainly don't have that concern. If I were to do this over I would knit a reasonable sized swatch, measure it, block it and then measure again. You might find you can go down a size.

I also ran out of wool which was frustrating. Fortunately the yarn shop I bought it from still had some of the same dyelot in stock so it all turned out well, but it is really expensive yarn so I did feel a bit ripped off! For the record I have never run out of wool before, I usually have a good amount left over so if you are a tight knitter you may want to consider having an extra ball as backup.

The pattern:
Dressage from the Third Sublime Aran pattern book. I knitted the smallest size and find it a little big. For reference, my high bust measures 87cm and my full bust measures 91cm. I chose the 84cm size because I prefer my tops to be fitted fairly close. Winters are mild here and I usually only wear a long sleeved t-shirt underneath at most, so I don't need to allow room for bulky under layers. The size is comfortable it is just a little less closely fitted than I would like, but it's just as well because with the extra length I need extra room to go around my hips! The sleeves are quite long, they come down over the back of my hands and aren't snug enough to push up, but I can live with that.  Look at the fit on the model and compare to how it fits me.  You can bet she doesn't have a 91cm bust and it looks tiny on her!

Image from here.

On the back I made an alteration for my short upper back by working short rows just above the waist. I've never done this before and it worked pretty well, at least I don't have a huge fold of jumper in my lower back as I usually do!

I closed it with a shawl stick (which I also bought at the yarn shop), but I think it also looks nice hanging open. Since it's bigger than planned the fronts wrap right across to the opposite side seam so I might sew on ribbons to tie it closed. Long term I think this will cause less damage to the cardigan. I will also stitch some ribbon across the inside of the shoulders and back neck to stabilise them and possibly snug them up a bit.

Conclusion:
I am very pleased with this, I used high quality yarn (a real splurge) but it was worth it. The design is modern and smart but also comfy casual at the same time. I did read somewhere that this yarn pilled with only light wearing but fortunately I have not noticed that yet, and I will be very p***ed off if my $180 cardigan doesn't wear well. Some care will be needed when washing it, lest it stretch even more. All in all though I can see myself wearing this a lot in winters to come.

Pattern Review - M5927 the frankendress

Here is the third and final installment of 'what I finished on the Friday Night Sew-In.  I am calling this the frankendress because it is the bodice of one pattern (M5927) attached to the skirt of another (Vogue 8494, which I used to make my Christmas dress last year).

The fabric is the same stretch suiting as I used for the black a-line skirt and grey pencil skirt.

I didn't need to make an fba as the pattern has different front patterns for different cup sizes.  I love it how pattern companies are doing that these days, it makes one less alteration I have to make!

Here's the back.  I made my normal short and narrow back alterations.  I'm not sure what's going on with those wrinkles in the lower back.  It could be the way I'm standing as I've never noticed them before.  Or, I've just thought it could also be the weight of the skirt as the fabric has a two-way stretch.  I stabilised the waist of the skirt with twill tape but maybe I need to add a stay?

Anyway the fit is pretty good if I may say.

Here is a close up of the bodice.  Now I am pretty sure that wrinkle is a posture thing.  It was really cold and I think I am hunching my shoulders a bit.

I'm not sure if you can see the detail of the pretty design on the mother-of-pearl buttons.  I originally bought them for a jacket but then I ended up using the jacket fabric for a skirt and these poor beauties have been homeless ever since.  It's nice to finally use them.

You'll be able to get to the full review from my widget if you are interested in the gory details.

Pattern Review - Burda Style 03-2010-106

Here is the second of the three garments I finished on the Friday Night Sew-In, a pencil skirt with welt pockets.  The pattern is number 106 from the March Burdastyle (sorry I cannot be bothered looking online for the technical diagram - please sort out the archives Burdastyle!), the same issue I used for the black a-line skirt.  That makes this issue a bit of a winner in my book, while I might love a number of patterns in any given issue I rarely get around to actually making two!

I must apologise for the dim photos, it is hard to catch the sun at the moment!

Behind me you can see the future site of my backyard veggie garden - I just have to figure out how to get the soil into it when the only access to the courtyard is through the house, hmmm probably should have though of that before!

Anyway, back to the skirt.  It's your run-of-the-mill pencil skirt but with welt pockets front and back.  These were tricky on the stretch woven fabric, but they came out passable.

I'll have to sew the back pockets closed - not that I would ever use them anyway!  My primary sewing machine has been in for a service and I couldn't be bothered getting another one out, I promise I'll do it before I wear the skirt to work.

Please just look at the skirt and not my ratty courtyard!

As for my previous skirt I cut a 42 at the waist and a 44 at the hip and the fit came out great.  For once I didn't lengthen the pattern as this design is longer than the standard Burda skirt.  It's a smidge shorter than I would normally make but I think it's fine. 

Instead of making the front fly (which always looks a bit wrong when I sit down), I put an invisible zip in the centre back.  I also added a kick pleat so I can actually walk in it.  I took photos of my lovely kick pleat and mitred hem but dark grey doesn't photograph well on a winter's day so you'll just have to trust me that they look really neat!

There is not much sewing going on here atm.  My sewing room is not heated and it is COLD in there!  Instead I have finished knitting the dressage jacket (blocking it today) and am working on a crocheted baby blanket as a gift for a woman at work.

Pattern Review - Burda Style 03-2010-105

Here is the first of the three garments I finished up in last week's Friday Night Sew-In.  It is not very exciting, a black a-line skirt, but I have to say I am very happy with it.  The shape is really nice,  not too triangle-y and it is seriously easy to put together.

(I wouldn't normally wear all black like this but I just slipped the skirt on with the blouse I wore to work today!).

I cut size 42 at the waist blending to 44 at the hip.  The only changes I made were to lengthen the skirt to 65cm so it finishes just below my knee, added a lining and moved the zip from the side seam to the centre back.  My hip curve is quite extreme so zips never sit right in the side seam.

I think I've found my new TNT a-line pattern!

Friday Night Sew In Results

My Friday night sew-in started slower than planned.  I got kept late at work and having had a trying day I had to unwind a bit before I could start sewing.  Fortunately the April BWOF (or whatever) arrived in my letterbox so I was able to wind down with a nice (sewing related) read.  Ever since I saw Eugenia's version of this skirt I have been saving a piece of black fabric so now I have the pattern in my hot little hands then guess what will be coming soon?

I had every intention to start and finish a project but instead I finished off three jobs I've had on the go for the past few weeks.  Full reviews and a proper photo shoot will be upcoming but it's been a grey old day today, I've been to see Prince of Persia with my friend Kate and I am quickly posting this before dinner and then the Australia v Ghana game.

So photos on Dion will have to suffice, bearing in mind that s/he is a little less well padded than me so in reality the curves will be better filled out.  BTW, Dion is my dummy.  The brand name is Diane and I was given him/her as a gift by my former co-workers.  When they handed him/her over one of my workmates said 'now I know this is something you've wanted for a long time...' and another one piped up 'It's a husband!'.  We all laughed and since then my dummy has had a male name.  That was seven years ago and I am still not married but Dion and I have had some good times!

So enough of the ramblings you say, what are these projects you finished?  Well, it was two skirts and a frankendress.  I have been making them on a production line as I thought I'd get done quicker but I am not sure that's true.  Last night I set in all the linings and did the hand finishing.

Skirt #1 is a basic black a-line.  Not much to say here, it's just a basic black skirt, but it is something my wardrobe has been lacking for some time.

Skirt #2 is a grey pencil skirt with welt pockets front and back.  This one needs a tummy and a butt to fill it out.  Luckily I have those, unlike Dion!

I think I'll sew these back pockets shut!

Finally the frankendress is the bodice from one pattern and the skirt from another.  I worry it looks a little prim but if I can find the right belt I reckon it'll be fine (hmm shall I prune the roses or shop for a belt tomorrow?)

So there is my night's efforts.  I am quite proud of myself for finishing all these things off, I'll try to get full posts on each of the garments done this week.

Tonight I am hoping to finish the first sleeve of my dressage jacket.  I love knitting while the football is on - I don't really need to look at what I am doing and when I get excited I go really fast!