Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Thursday, May 1, 2014

How to Paint 15mm Mexicans for the Alamo (or Napoleonic French)

We recently did a pretty decent sized project for a customer of a 15mm Mexican force for the battle of the Alamo. This is one of those rare occasions where I took the time to take pictures for a hot-to during the process. This is how I generally do 15mm Napoleonics. While this is for the Mexicans at the Alamo, the process will work just fine for French with a few minor modifications.

This isn't the only way to paint Napoleonic French, it is just the way I've found to be easiest to me. Hopefully you can take something useful away from this tutorial if you already do Napoleonics, or if you want to get started on the period this might help you make the leap.

While the uniforms from the period can be complex, the painting process doesn't need to be. I like to break a project down into a manageable process.

First the figures need cleaned and primed. I like to work from a black undercoat, working my way lighter with highlights.

Then I do the  pants and small clothes. Since they are white I go with a lighter mid-grey, Cell Vinyl's Grey #7, followed with an overbrush of white.



Next the coats. I used Coat d'Arms Royal blue and applied our own mix of dark blue wash:


Next I work on the muskets. I used Vallejo Beige Brown for the wood since I was going to apply a wash to bring out the details and this would darken things a bit. Then I used GW's Leadbelcher for the metal parts, then applied our Armor wash to the whole gun. This wash is a slightly brownish black wash so it adds a nice shade to the gun, picking out the details.


Next the red bits: collar, lapels (on the figures that have them), cuffs, and turnbacks, and pom-poms:


Next I did the yellow bands around the shakos:


Now I do the flesh. I know this is backwards from how many people paint their figures; ie, do the flesh first. Since I tend to paint sloppy first, cleaning things up more and more to the end, I find it easier to do the flesh toward the end, cutting in on those parts. That way I don't have to worry about getting other colors on the flesh while either dry-brushing or washing.

For these I used P3's Ryn flesh (which I transferred to a dropper bottle which I prefer) washed with our own flesh wash. Our flesh wash is a close clone of the older GW  flesh wash so that would work fine. If they were 28's I'd worry about trying to make the flesh more "Mexican" but in 15mm I think the distinction is really lost.


Now I do the black bits, like the bayonet scabbard, cleaning up the yellow bands on the shako, etc, and for the Mexicans their sandals.




Then I painted on the green tips on the pom-poms. These figures from Blue Moon were kind of unusual. The pom-poms kind of looked like plums, but kind of like pom poms, but kind of like cockades. I wasn't really pleased with that but I went ahead and did them all as best I could as pom poms:


Last two steps were to highlight the black bits with a bit of dark grey, then the gold bits such as the shako plate (which really lacked definition on these figures), and the tips of the bayonet scabbards.





That's generally how I do 15mm Napoleonics. Your mileage may vary, however. I tend to paint sloppy-to-neat; in other words, I to the things that are either sloppier or that I don't have to be as careful with first, working cleaner and neater as I go. That way I don't have to worry as much about getting paint on things that have been done until I get toward the end of the process. It is just easier and quicker for me to paint this way. If you are the type of person that needs to see immediate results or must always keep things very tidy that method of painting may not work out for you as the figure doesn't start looking more like the finished project until almost at the end of the process.


Monday, July 29, 2013

GW Hobbit: Hunter Orcs On Worgs

Recently we had an order for Hunter Orcs on foot and on worgs.  Sure, they're in the GW magazine, White Dwarf, but honestly when I looked at those images I wasn't that impressed.  Their version of the Hunter Orc is so bright; the purple is too vibrant and the ocher is too yellow.  So, I took the basic idea, after looking at some images of orcs in the Hobbit movie book and online, that these orcs could be more than just a basic dingy green or putrid white.  In my version I tried my best to capture the feeling from the Hobbit movie stills book but punch up the color a little so they are appealing on the table from a distance.

This demo is done using the casualties...and here they are primed, glued to bases with debris added...

Here are the color pallets for the four different flesh colored orcs...
Pallet 1 -
Base - Nurgling Green
Highlight - Bloodless Skin
Wash - Dark Green-Brown (homemade wash) could use mix of Thraka and Devlan

Pallet 1
Pallet 2 -
Base - Fair Shadow
Highlight - Fair Highlight
Wash - Devlan Mud (GW color)

Pallet 2
Pallet 3 -
Base - Yellow Ochre
Highlight - 1/1 Yellow Ochre and White
Wash - Dark Sepia (homemade wash) could use Gryphon Sepia mixed with Devlan Mud
Pallet 3
Pallet 4 -
Base - Red Brown #11
Highlight - 1/1 Red Brown and White
Wash - Devlan Mud

 Here I've base coated each of the orcs with the color bottled above it...


Additionally, I've painted the rock debris a dark gray.

Next, I've highlighted the bodies with their corresponding colors, including the rocks with a medium gray.
Not pictured is the Red Brown 11 mixed with white or the Yellow Ocher mixed with white.


And the clothing colors I've chosen to mimic those in the movie stills book...
Bracers and Boots:
Base: Red Tail Light
Wash: Black or Devlan Mud

Mantle and/or Loin Cloth:
Base: Dark Blue Gray
Wash: Algae (homemade) a medium bluish green color

Main Armor:
Base: Gray #25 or a medium gray
Wash: Black or Devlan Mud
 
Left to right: loin cloths or mantles, arm guards and boots, main shirt/armor body
 Here I've painted the clothing their base colors...

The Tan 6, a creamy off-white, was used to paint the bones located in the armor.  I feel that it is necessary to do that before the washing because you want to masque or blend where the leather meets the bone...plus the bone should be rather dirty anyways.
 
I waited to wash their flesh until I had all the clothing base coated...

Left to Right: Dark Green-Brown wash, Dark Sepia, and Devlan Mud

Then, when the flesh dried I went back with other washes for the clothes/leathers...

 
They don't photograph well in the bottles but I used an Algae wash (homemade) which is a bluish green to wash the blue leather.  Note the algae colored "A" on the paper.
For the gray and  Red Tail Light I used Devlan Mud but you could use black instead.

AFTER THE WASHES HAVE DRIED!

Lastly, for the armor is a highlight of mold.  This is very soft and subtle and is used to create that mouldering appearance of uncured leather as seen in the movie stills...

Colors used for mouldering effect
Pale Lichen and Gray #7 are used first...

  • Pale Lichen on the Blue and Red leathers.  
  • Gray #7 on the Gray leather.

A final highlight was added to the stones also using the Gray #7

Tan #9 and White are used second.  

  • Tan #9 on the Blue and Red leathers. 
  • White on the Gray leather.



After painting the bases a dark green-brown they were flocked using various flocks from Scenic Express.  Then, blood was added at various points on the body to make them appear as a fresh kill.



Worgs



Colors Used for Fur...


Base coat in black (or black primer) then heavily brush on the Raw Umber but not so thick as to cover up too much of the black.


These three colors were used for the highlights, you could always skip the Skavenblight as it is rather dark and doesn't show up that much over the Raw Umber.  They are done in varying degrees of dry brushing, the Astronomican Grey being just a petting/dusting on the shoulders, haunches, around the face and feet.  Astronomican Grey is used to make these places pop.


For the Mouth...

Base coat with the Antique Rose, then Dallimore highlight with the Porcelain Rose.  Finally, wash with Burgundy (could use mix of Leviathan Purple and Baal Red).  Red alone is too red and purple looks off, so a burgundy gives it that right amount of hungry.

 The Eyes have it...

First the eyes are painted a Cool Gray (bluish gray), then a dot of white is added for glint and glow.  Lastly, to really make them glow like in the movie stills, wash with a turquoise blue and when that dries a mint green.  Make sure that the wash even goes onto the fur around the eye to make it look as if it is glowing and illuminating the fur around it. :-)


 -----------FINISHED PRODUCT-----------