Neutral Navy - 1956

Navy blue.  It's one of those neutral colors that is flattering on most everyone. It goes with every other color. It is perfect if black is too harsh on you. And, subliminally, navy says "success."

This two page ad for Rayon fabric from 1956 features 5 different navy blue dresses, all available at Henri Bendel. The hats are by Adolfo of Emme.

Above left:  Sheath dress with short jacket by Rembrant.
Above right:  Full skirt princess dress by Junior Sophisticate.

Left:  Sheath dress with short cape by Highlight.
Center:  Shirtwaist dress by Ira Rentner.
Right:  Full skirted dress by Richard Cole.

Which dress is perfect for you?  How do you wear navy blue?

Both photos from a 2 page advertisement for Rayon in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

David Crystal Pastel Rainbow - 1956

The perfect dress for a sultry summer evening, don't you think?  The pastel rainbow of a skirt is knife pleated all the way around and set off to perfection with the solid blue bodice that buttons down the back.  Dress by David Crystal in Celanese Arnel jersey for spring 1956.  Sold for $40 (about $345 in today's dollar.)  Oh, and the wicker chair is by Widdicomb, another famous mid-century brand.

Photo by Louise Dahl-Woolfe for Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Adele Simpson Convertible Dress - 1956

A seemingly simple dress and jacket set by Adele Simpson from the spring of 1956 takes a surprising turn.  In the small photo at the left, the dress appears to be one piece.  But remove that little bolero....and is that a strapless dress now?  Why, yes!  I believe it is!  3 looks in 1!  The ad calls this ensemble the "Important 'peel off' costume."  Made in imported Italian silk by Chardon Marche.

Photo from a full page ad for Adele Simpson that appeared in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Donald Brooks - 1956

Did you guess correctly? Many of you were close, and many of you thought this was a modern image.   The photo was taken in 1956.  The dress is by Donald Brooks, the sandals by Bernardo. The sleeves are likely full or 3/4 length and have been rolled to the elbow.  The addition of a wide sash instead of the self fabric belt that probably came with the dress is another stylish touch. I chose this photo to show that if you wear vintage, you can still look very modern. 

Before he started his own company, Donald Brooks started his career working for the junior sportswear company Darbury.  This classic cotton check shirt dress by Brooks for Darbury is very different from what he would later design for his own label.  He was likely working within the guidelines of what Darbury wanted for its customers and this was very early in his career.  But the dress is so classic that it could have been made last month and still look in-style and of-the-moment.  Do you have a classic shirtwaist dress in your closet?  Do you wear it over and over?  If not, perhaps you should consider it!

Photo by Francesco Scavullo for Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Harvey Berin for Bergdorf Goodman, 1956

Harvey Berin is one of my favorite vintage labels. This stunning dress was sold by Bergdorf Goodman and featured in a full page ad in December of 1956. 

"Out of the Blue by Harvey Berin $175
As fragile-looking as a snowflake drifting through the night. Our short evening dress of imported white French point d'esprit appliqued with pale blue French silk Chantilly lace embroidered with rhinestones. Heavenly dressing after dark for sizes 8 to 16. Ready-to-Wear Evening Gowns, Fourth Floor."

Point d'esprit is white lace netting with little polka dots woven into it.  The blue Chantilly lace appliques were individually cut and appliqued onto the white point d'esprit base and the whole thing sparkles with rhinestones.  Maybe someday I'll see this dress in person.  For now, I have to dream about it.

$175 in 1956 is equal to about $1,502 in today's dollar!

Photo by Sharland for Bergdorf Goodman full page ad appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Mollie Parnis Dress - 1956

"My dear, you're the most exciting woman in this room...in a Mollie Parnis dress of William Rose black taffeta. 125.00"

This dress had every opportunity of being austere with its long sleeves and solid black color.  But note how Parnis offsets that by making the neckline as wide as it can be with the sleeves sitting just at the very edge of the shoulders.  Those shoulders become the center of attention, don't they?

Dress by Mollie Parnis shown in a full page ad for Harper's Bazaar, December 1956.

Frost Bros Advertises American Haute Couture, 1956

Frost Bros. was the place to shop in San Antonio, Texas.  It was a very exclusive and old world store for people with old world money.  Frost Bros. carried only the best of the best and made the prices at Neiman's look like Woolworth's.  With those prices, though, you got personalized service and you could purchase fashion from Paris and Italy, as well as the best of American designers. 

In a full 1 1/2 page spread in a San Antonio newspaper in 1956, Frost Bros. advertised the latest fashion from the best of American designers.  Titled "American Haute Couture," the ad featured a pinstriped suit by Irene Lentz. Of course, the high end garments by American designers that Frost's offered were not haute couture in its literal sense, meaning they were not made by hand for one specific customer.  In using the term, though, Frost's is attempting to elevate American fashion to the heights it deserved for its clientele, essentially saying, "You don't have to go to Paris to be in fashion."

Today, I want to share with you the copy from this ad, as the writing is superb and communicates the romance and allure of high end fashion.  Bravo to the unsung writer who penned this copy, beginning with a quote from Irene Lentz.

"To each generation is given a few high-antenna creative people.  They live in the rarified reaches where beauty begins.  A choice few of these find fashion as their medium.  In the olden days, these great artists of fashion were believed to be only in Paris.  Today, a rich vein of them is found in America.  They constitute one of the land's richest natural resources, bringing beauty to our clothes, our behavior, our manners.  They contribute sharp drama as well as gentleness to our way of life, and their works comprise a sector of our contemporary culture."  We apply these words spoken by a fashion philosopher of California, designer Irene, whose highly American design you see in two dimensions [above] and in three dimensions on our Third Floor, to all great American designers.  Making our bow to the tradition of Paris, we honor the designers of young America with the French term, "Haute Couture", so as to offer them, in old world grandeur, the ribbon of honor, the star, the crown and the triple plume of sovereignty and achievement!   With pride, we invite you to see American Haute Couture at Frost's alone in San Antonio.

Doesn't that make you want to shop at Frost Bros?

Weekend Eye Candy - Pierre Balmain, 1956

This week I added lots of pink goodies to the website, so it's only appropriate that I finish the week in that vein.  Evening gown with long stole by Pierre Balmain, Fall 1956.  Just a little something, darlings!

Nettie Rosenstein for I. Magnin - 1956

I love a rose print.  Add a matching hat and I'm over the moon!  I. Magnin featured this dress by Nettie Rosenstein in a full page ad from 1956.  "we like the look of a rose on a stem...a big hat...a stem-slender dress by Nettie Rosenstein cut from rose-printed silk shantung, swept to the back and gently pleated...in our Magnin-exclusive Rosenstein collection."  Perfection, pure and simple.  If anyone can tell me what the illustrator's signature says, I would really appreciate it.

I. Magin ad for Harper's Bazaar, March 1956.

Weekend Eye Candy - Dior, 1956

Pretty roses printed on silk and fashioned into a deceptively simple dress by Christian Dior, 1956.

Zelinka Matlick Suit Two Ways, 1956

Zelinka Matlick was one of America's best suit and coat manufacturers based on New York's Seventh Avenue.  Back in the day, every woman had a serviceable suit in her wardrobe to wear whenever it was called for....travel, a day in the city, a meeting with a professional, and so forth.  Women would purchase a basic suit and wear it for years. 

This suit from 1956 is even more versatile because it has a sweet little cape that can be worn or not for two different looks.  And the best part?  The cape is lined in polka dots!  Swoon!  This Zelinka Matlick suit sold for $110 in 1956 (about $929 in today's dollar.)

Bergdorf Goodman Coat for Spring, 1956

What ever happened to spring weight coats?  Back in the day, women had a wardrobe of coats for fall, winter and spring.  They were different weights, different colors and different fabrics.  This spring coat from 1956 was an exclusive design at Bergdorf Goodman.  Lighter in color and far less bulky than a winter coat, this one is almost an outfit in and of itself.

I've talked before about the wonderful copy writing for Bergdorf's ads.  Their fashion writers were able to evoke a sense of desire for a garment unlike any others.  Here's what this ad says:

Beautiful Wanderer - Coat Exclusive $165
Our blonde beauty in pure wool homespun with the wandering waistline that starts high, ends low, makes a fine figure of the fashionable inhabitant.  '56 new-look, forerunner of one of the prettiest Springs in years.  Also in lipstick red or navy.  Sizes 8 to 14.

By the way, $165 in 1956 is equivalent to $1,393 in today's dollar.  

Weekend Eye Candy - Lanvin Castillo, 1956

Are you ready for your holiday parties?  Black silk taffeta dress by Lanvin-Castillo, 1956.

Monte Sano and Pruzan Tweed Coat - 1956

They say tweed is a big fashion trend for Fall 2012.  From my point of view, tweed is always in fashion for fall.  Make it vintage tweed and it's even better.  Take for example this gorgeous coat by Monte Sano and Pruzan.  Vincent Monte Sano founded his custom tailoring shop in 1924, but began producing ready-to-wear coats and suits in the 1940s.  Max Pruzan became a partner in the firm during the 1950s.  Jacques Tiffeau was a designer for the company from 1952-58, and it is likely he designed this coat from 1956.

"Perfect perspective on the linear tweed reefer.  A perfect example of fine architecture in coats...good gray French tweed, whittled with great precision, belted slightly higher than usual.  Also in solid black.  By Monte Sano and Pruzan."

Note the big wide collar that floats just so, then look at the pocket flaps that echo the design of the collar.  The flared sleeves are 3/4 length to show off your favorite gloves.  And the belt that sits slightly higher than your waist makes your legs appear miles long.  Perfect perspective indeed.  This coat sold for $265.00 in 1956 (about $2,232.00 in today's dollar.)  Expensive, but with the finest of tailoring, highest quality fabrics and attention to construction and detail?  Worth every penny.

Mad for Plaid - 1956

There's a touch of Fall in the air this morning, and that brings to mind the perfect dress for this time of year. It's plaid, it's a darker color than the tropical brights of summer, and it's cotton because those cool mornings will give way to still-warm temperatures in the afternoon. These examples are all from 1956.

Kane Weill, one of the myriad of New York's 7th Avenue manufacturers of fine dresses, offered this full skirted cotton dress in brown, royal blue and black or green, royal blue and black plaid.  Black velvet accents the collar and cuffs. Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Mr. John.

L'Aiglon cotton plaid dress with a full skirt and linen collar.  This one buttons all the way up the front.  Sold in 1956 for $18 (about $152 in today's dollar.)

Nantucket Naturals brown cotton plaid accented with a big black organdy bow at the neckline.  Carry the black through in the belt, gloves and hat.  Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)

Kane Weill again, this time with a simple shirtwaist in brown, black and rust red plaid accented with black velvet at the collar and cuffs.  Sold in 1956 for $40 (about $337 in today's dollar.)

Weekend Eye Candy - Ceil Chapman, 1956

From 1956, a dress by Ceil Chapman made from Ametex brand lace.  Note how the dress is allowed to be the star here by way of a sleek hair style and no accessories except little white gloves.  I adore this photo, don't you?

Weekend Eye Candy - Jean Desses, 1956

From 1956, a lovely confection of a dress by Jean Desses.  Bands of white lace adorn pink mousseline silk.  I love the effect of the lace sewn closely together at the bodice and then opening up with the pink between in the skirt.

Harvey Berin Dress - 1956

May I just say, everything about this dress from 1956 is perfection, pure and simple.  The Harvey Berin company was better known for their evening wear, but designer Karen Stark also fashioned some outstanding daytime dresses and suits, as you can see.

-  Look at that black and white dotty fabric (likely silk) that has an almost Op Art look to it 10 years too early.
-  Look at the black bands at the waist.  Each has a bow, but they are on opposite sides.
-  Look at that pleated full skirt.  The photographer has captured its movement on film.
-  And LOOK at the matching umbrella!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you love it as much as I do?

Mr. Mort Dress - 1956

Finding an ad for a dress I've had in my inventory doesn't happen very often, but when it does I like to show it to you.  This morning, I came across this 2-page spread for a dress by Mr. Mort exclusively for Saks Fifth Avenue.  The ad appears in a February 1956 magazine.

The ad copy reads: 
"Our young man likes to see a girl wearing diamonds, especially when they're embroidered in black on a dress of Thomas cotton.  He scoops its neck widely, laces the tiny-looking bodice with black ribbon.  In red, grey or beige - and washable!"  Sold in 1956 for $39.95 (about $338 in today's dollar.)

Here's the dress live and in color.  It sold right away to a long-time Couture Allure customer, but you can still click through to the original listing to see more photos and all the details!

Pauline Trigere Dress - 1956

Pauline Trigere, one of America's most famous designers, designed this dress in the spring of 1956.  I love the unusual capelet collar that sits away from the shoulders.  Made of a beige and white wool tweed with a gathered skirt.  Sold in 1956 for $250 (about $2,112 in today's dollar.)  The doggie hug?  Priceless!