What about the spelling?

This is a restaurant that my father remembers from a long, long time ago. Maybe it is not the same restaurant, because he sets it as being on Mount Road, close to the LIC Building and this  Kwality Restaurant is on Montieth Road. The memory comes from the way its name is spelt, so the location is not so important.

About four decades ago, he had popped across from his place of work for a chai and probably a smoke as well. The restaurant was not crowded and he saw someone a few tables away. He looked familiar, but it took a while for dad to place him. And when he did, he rushed across to shake hands with Sir Vidia - then just plain Mr. Naipaul.

After chatting a bit about "A House for Mr. Biswas", "A Flag on the Island" and "In a Free State", dad ventured to ask him about the food. He is still wondering about Mr. Naipaul's reply:  "As good as the spelling"!

View from third man

Did you get here because you were frustrated by England grinding India at Kolkata? Now that you got here, do you recognize where 'here' is?

It is not a legendary ground, but I have a lot of memories. Designed more for a football or a hockey match, the 'B' Ground at Loyola College is used for cricket matches of lesser importance. Like the one happening in the picture, which has the Chennai-based alumni of India's best B-Schools - the IIMs and XLRI - play each other annually. 

The average age of players in this tournament would be in the high 40s. But yet, this bunch of players would surely have done better against the Poms!

Triple-7

Much before Double-Seven came up as a cola brand, long before Maggi's 'instant' noodles flooded the market, there was a firm in Madras that had been there and done that. Maybe even gone a step further.

Sree Ganesh Ram Foods came into being in 1954. It was an offshoot of Hotel Sri Rama Bhavan, started in 1936 by an Iyer-duo: RSN and RSG. Maybe 7 was their 'lucky number' and they went at it thrice over, putting the 777 brand on the pickles and masalas they packed. Food processing technology being what it was in those days, there were not too many branded products in the market. SGR Foods, with their 777 brand went into products other than pickles. One such product lines was the food mixes, which they branded 'Dhideer' (that's Tamizh for 'instant'). That brand was a cult hit - everything became 'Dhideer', even if it had nothing to do with SGR Foods. 

Today, SGR Foods churns out roughly 2,000 tonnes of processed foods, spanning eight categories and nearly 150 variants. Not all of them go under the SGR brands; it appears that private label contracts are booming. SGR Foods is looking to raise funds to triple(!) their production capacity. Why wouldn't you invest?!

Track and field

Not often that you get a chance to see the Jawaharlal Nehru stadium from the train. On a weekday, the carriage would be so crowded that one would not even be able to breathe deeply for fear of pushing a couple of people out on to the tracks. 

On a Sunday morning, it was nice to get this view as the train pulled out of Chennai Central. Would have been nice to get a view of those tracks inside the stadium, as well!

Ispahani complex

Uh-oh! Were you looking for something about the Ispahani Centre in Nungambakkam? That's a johnny-come-latey, having been around only for about ten years or so. This building, in Begum Ispahani's name, has been around for a whole lot longer. 

The name itself is supposedly Persian in origin. Given where this is located, it is more likely that this branch of Ispahanis merely passed through Iran on their way to Madras from Armenia a couple of centuries ago!

Corner shrine

This one is a little more 'advanced' than the Nandi of Flagstaff Road. The offerings are more elaborate and it has a roof over its head. Give it another 5 years and there will be claims of this having been 'always here', making life difficult for pedestrians if they choose to use the footpath.

The Supreme Court had directed - in 2009 - that unauthorized construction of any place of worship on public land should be permitted to remain. Does not seem to have made much of an impact!

Title list

Of the close to 300 films he starred in, about 60 went on to become 100-day runs. Even those that did not had something to be remembered by. Except for a period in the 1980s when he was going through that limbo between clinging on to 'youth' roles and settling into the elder statesman roles, Sivaji Ganesan's movies were all very interesting to watch. 

The entire list is shown here on a wall at Shanthi Theatre, Sivaji's own exhibition venture. It may be tempting to think that the theatre would have flogged his movies with or without an audience, just to set records. But this was during a period where Sivaji was the king of the box office - and his films were not shown at Shanthi alone. 

On 18 occasions, a Sivaji picture was released against another Sivaji picture. Quite a few times, both of them did well. It might be a bit difficult to read them off this list, though!

On the street

It is indeed a secretive place. I haven't seen anyone go in or come out of this "Russian House" on Cenotaph Road. It is quite a large compound, but the Russian consulate is not located here - that's on Santhome High Road. 

Most likely, this is the Consul's residence. But he must certainly go in and out a couple of times a day at least, shouldn't he? Or is there a more cloak and dagger explanation? Anyone??

The theme day for December 1 is "My Street".... and this one is close enough. To see streets from different parts of the world, click here: City Daily Photo Blogs' Theme Day

Water clubs

There they are, some visitors to the Royal Madras Yacht Club, getting into the boats for a spin around the harbour. The club itself operates out of the building in the background. 

If you visit the RMYC and get into the first floor of that building, you are bound to see a bunch of fishing rods and other angling gear stored there. That's because the Anglers' Club, India uses the building as their base!

Boats

Most often, if you are headed south along the Marina, you would go down Santhome High Road to get to your destination. But if you are a bit late in the morning - I guess after 9 am - you will be turned away at the light house and told to go along the road that starts off at Nochhikuppam, goes through Doomingkuppam and gets back to the Santhome High Road at Pattinapakkam. It is not a very scenic drive, despite being on the beach and having the Bay of Bengal right next to the road. 

But it takes you to a different Chennai. One where the fishermen still get out before the dawn cracks and get back in time for you to buy fresh catch for your lunch, or if you wish, a late breakfast. If you are running late, driving on this road - very grandly labelled "Foreshore Estate Promenade" on the map - think about those who have finished their first shift of work and have brought their boats back to park on the beach!

Prayer hall

As far as its history as a part of Madras goes, West Mambalam does not have much; there were probably a few villages on the western side of the Long Tank, but little remains of them today. It was only after the Long Tank was filled during the 1910s that this area came into its own.  

Given that vintage of its surroundings, this 58-year old hall is a venerable institution. It had its beginnings during the Rama Navami celebrations in the year 1954. K. Subramania Iyer felt that the good folks of West Mambalam deserved their own celebrations rather than having to run across to those in neighbouring areas. Spurred on by his friend Srinivasa Rao, they approached Vepathur Venkatarama Iyer who shelled out Rs.25 as his donation; buoyed by this, 'KS' and Rao sought contributions from other residents of the area. With a princely sum of Rs.242, the first Rama Navami celebrations at West Mambalam were conducted for nine days in a thatched shed on Bhaktavatsalam Street. 

Vepathur Venkatarama Iyer continued to support this fledgling effort, when KS and Rao, now with a few others helping them, wanted to create a permanent hall for the celebrations. It was Iyer's support that helped them secure the 10,000 sft space on which this hall stands today. Dedicated to the Lord Rama, it was named the Ayodha Ashwamedha Maha Mandapam. Drop those two words in the middle and anyone will show you the way to the focal landmark of today's West Mambalam!

Brand launch

Was at a book launch this evening, at the Landmark store in Chennai Citi Centre. It wasn't one of your regular books - this was about how 'SuperStar' has evolved to be a brand and about what product brands can learn from the 'SuperStar'. Titled 'Grand Brand Rajini', it connects different aspects of the man to the field of Brand Management.

On stage (right) are the two authors, PC Bala Subramanian and Ram N. Ramakrishnan. With the mike is the chief guest, a star in his own right, is Balki, Chairman and Chief Creative Officer of Lowe Lintas (India). Balki was pointing out how 'SuperStar' has becoming a brand by staying true to himself and thereby true to what his 'consumers' expected from him. 

That view was echoed by the fourth person on stage - Lata Rajinikanth, who talked about how the 'SuperStar' was as a person. Anecdotes that only burnished the shine of the 'SuperStar'. With such a launch, I'm sure the book will be a grand success!

Wireless?

How many mobile phone towers does Chennai city have? Surely somebody must be keeping an exact count, but the closest estimate seems to be "around 5,000". Apparently, their number is unregulated, probably because it doesn't involve digging up roads or "pulling cables". 

The statuette at the corner of Ayodha Mandapam's frontage shows a different form of wireless communication than provided by the tower in the background. The cables in front of it are of course universal to Chennai's streets.

From September, there has been a spurt in the number of mobile phone towers - thanks to the DoT's order to reduce the radiation from each tower to a tenth of what it used to be. Has that helped in getting calls through? Or do we rely on having to trumpet our message across?

Misty morning

It was not the earliest of mornings; much of the city was up and about already. But it is a Sunday, so there is that extra round of gossip when collecting the milk, catching up with the neighbour's newspaper, and suchlike things happening even as the clock was getting to 7am.

It is a great time to be in Chennai. Crisp mornings, not so hot days and early evenings. The rain staying away is not good, but it comes with the blessing of dry streets. 

View from Brindavan Street, towards the subway that takes you to the heart of Chennai's shopping.

Chintadripet church

That was the functional name accorded to the church that was set up in 1843 in Chintadripet. Situated on Arunachala Mudali Street, this church was ministered to by a succession of family members for over a hundred years. All of them are descendants of Cuddalore Arumugam, who in 1733 became the first Indian to be ordained a Protestant pastor, taking on the name S. Aaron. Aaron's great grandson, Rev. William Thomas Sathianadhan was assigned to the Chintadripet Church in 1863. By that time, the church had constructed its building - something that happened in 1847 itself. It was expanded in 1880 and then again in 1912. 

It was Rev. Sathianadhan who renamed it the Zion Church; after his time, his son in law, Rev. W.D. Clarke took over as pastor and the family connection continued through his son and grandson. The last Clarke, of the fourth generation, served as the pastor until 1972. 

Apart from the pastors, the other long-running association this church has is a pipe-organ, which was brought from England in 1895. Renovated in 2006, it continues to add music to the church choir to this day!

Mixed message

On noticing this sign, one is reminded of a post that has been circulating for a while, claiming that if the first and last letters are correct, the jumbling up of other letters does not  make it difficult for us to understand what is being said. 

The urban dictionary has a word to describe it: typoglycemia (and a wikipedia entry as well). But even that contrived word does not describe what has happened with the sign here. Even if you cannot read Tamizh, you would have been able to figure out that the last two characters replace the 'tre' (or the 'ter', if you prefer); they are the Tamizh letters which are phonetically congruent. 

Maybe the painter realized that he had run out of space and had to make do with one character less - how would you label this kind of a 'spelling'!

Clearwater?

Inside the Chennai Port. Those who have been to the world's large ports - Rotterdam, Singapore, Shanghai talk about how dirty the Port of Chennai is. But going back there after over 20 years, I found it cleaner than it was in my memory. 

If a picture like this had been taken in the 1990s, the water would have had a thick coating of oil on it - that would have made the picture more colourful, but I'm sure we'd prefer it this way!

70 mm

Of course the old time Madrasis will not be able to recognize this space. About 50 years ago, there was a different building that came up at this spot - the Anand theatre. It has given way to a shopping complex, just like many other exhibitors from that era. 

G. Umapathy, wanted to make a splash with his new theatre in 1964. And so he brought in the latest in technology; the 70mm movie. It was the first 70mm screen in Madras, beating Safire to the reel on that count. And the two of them vied with each other in bringing the best of the Hollywood to Madras. 

Sadly, neither Safire nor Anand survives today. One hopes that Mr. Umapathy's family retains some part of the history is incorporated in the shopping complex that is coming up....

Standing tall

It was at one time the tallest building in India. Conceived as the headquarters of his business ventures, M. Ct. M Chidambaram Chettiar spared no effort in getting the best architects to design it. Even though the original architects - Brown & Moulin of London - went off the project after construction had started, LM Chitale, who was later to be known as one of Chennai's best architects, took over supervision of the building's completion. 

Based on the design of the UN Secretariat building in New York city, this building also marked a transition in Madras' construction technology. Into the 1950s, bricks and lime were the material of choice even for large commercial or office buildings. This one was the first to use concrete columns, paving the way for larger buildings to come up in other parts of the country. Chidambaram Chettiar did not live to see the building in use; he passed away in 1954. And when the insurance business was nationalized in 1956, the planned original occupants - United India Insurance, New Guardian Life Assurance, Travancore Rayons and Indian Overseas Bank - gave way to the new behemoth, the Life Insurance Corporation of India. 

No longer the tallest building even in Chennai, the LIC building is still a grand structure. A few months ago, there was a scare that the tunnelling for the Chennai Metro is causing cracks in the edifice. But that is nothing for a building that was shut for well over a year in 1975-76, after a devastating fire rendered access to any part of this building dangerous!                                  

Nosing ahead

The Chennai airport has been at the receiving end of poor reviews, almost all of which are well justified. The airport is pretty much at the limit of its capacities in all forms. And rather than go in for a completely new airport - as was done at Bengaluru or at Hyderabad, Chennai opted for the revamp route. 

Ever since the first terminal was opened sixty years ago, Chennai has been reluctant to let the airport move out from this location. The original terminal - seen in the background - was referred to as the Meenambakkam airport, because that was the nearest suburban railway station. When the new terminal was built in 1985, it was no longer Meenambakkam; the railways in fact built a new station at Thirusoolam, between Meenambakkam and Pallavaram to cater to the airport goers. But try telling a Chennaiite that it should be called the Thirusoolam airport and you will be left feeling that the coals of Hades would be a refreshing, cool change.

The expansion is to be completed in 2013-14. And if current projections hold, that would be bursting at the seams by 2016-17. The TN Vision Plan for 2023 envisages a completely new airport, near Sriperumbudur, about 50km away. Even when that happens, we will still call it the Meenambakkam airport, I'm sure!