RTW Sleeve Lining

I'm sure there are better photos of this process somewhere on the web. The main trick is in the very beginning: The SA have to be folded in and pinned in place so you know where to line up the hem and lining. Once you pull that sleeve out it can get awfully confusing without it. This example is with a zipped vent but the rest is exactly the same. I also want to say that Kathleen Fasanella's book explains exactly how to draft/construct the lining, so if you don't already own a copy it is so worth the money just for that alone. It's the only way I do linings. (Except for Chanel style jackets.)

PART ONE

PART TWO

PART THREE

I'm glad to be back to blogging and thank you all for the nice comments on the jacket. I was in the process of writing the review when I realized that this sleeve construction is very hard to describe without pictures. Thank goodness for Blogland and Adobe Photoshop! I'll probably be back with a few more, but I've also signed up with Flickr. iWeb changed format so now I can't get direct links to jpg's- what a shame! Mac, I love thee but that was very NOT COOL! Many of my links on PR don't work, but I'll get to them- someday!

Burda 07-2010-118 Peplum Jacket

This jacket has made many people's "must sew" list, including mine...

I bought this fabric in NYC, it's a metallic tweed. Hard to work with mainly because the pressing is so sensitive. I made a few (well, many) mistakes, but they're all avoidable if you keep your head on straight. The right pressing cloth, very little heat and of course, pressing from wrong side whenever possible is a must, which made this jacket not exactly the ideal choice. That peplum needs to be pressed so I cheated, some... :) I added 1" to the length of the jacket.

As you can see the lining is pretty bright! I dyed silk charmeuse light green. The peplum lining hangs free from side seam to side seam. I cut a facing for the peplum hem because this fabric refuses to be manipulated and shrunk. Also made a hidden pocket in the lining.

I also made a zipper pull out of pearls and crystals;

The jacket is part of an ensemble; the blouse I already reviewed on PR, and the skirt is done. Just have to get pictures of me wearing it all. And the Balmain as well... the review of that jacket is finally written.

Hope the summer is going well for everyone. Here in LA it's been heating up the last couple of days. Not that I notice that much, mostly in air conditioned room, sewing and dancing. I try not to sew when I dance, or dance when I sew...

Rock Star Jacket- Star Included

Links to more photos added on 6/26/08:

Jacket inside

My label

Pocket

Welt

Stretch skirt with darts

No-scratch comfort added to waistband

We sure had fun when she got home yesterday afternoon! She was thrilled with the new skirt and top.

Skirt is a self draft A-line with darts in a remnant stretch with shiny scales on i. Top is BWOF 3-2008-133, in cotton, also a remnant, with silk chiffon drawstring.

The photo shoot went very well, the star was extremely cooperative, and most poses were too good not to show;-) Please forgive a mum's momentary pride!

It's hard to see in this photo below, but I put my label on the back waistband. 


Hopefully you can see the gorgeous buttons DD selected by herself- each and every one different.

She wore the jacket to school, so I'll take some close-up pictures later.

Also, Happy Birthday, mate!

You're better than new, I'll stick to you like glue.

Rock Star Jacket Is Done

This is Jalie 2320, a truly great pattern. I drafted the lining per Kathleen's book. If you don't yet have that book, do yourself a favor and get it. It's worth its price for the lining/facing instructions alone.

Well, it's all sewn up, but the rock star wanted a whole outfit, so the photo shoot had to wait. She's at school right now, hopefully she'll be up for a performance when she gets home :-) In the meantime, here are some construction photos. This leather is super soft and quite easy to sew. I did use a leather needle at first, but after switching to a ball point for the silk lining, I found it to work just as well. I changed the front pockets since I didn't have enough leather; I made a single welt and silk pocket bags. I used tear away stabilizer when sewing with the metallic facing down, which helped the feeding go pretty smoothly.