Mr Mosaic

Mosaic knitting has given me ideas - I've been experimenting with hats knitted sideways, combining mosaic knitting and garter stitch. Not quite there yet as one of them is slightly too big and the felted one is slightly too small, but I like them anyway. They look like rainbows with icing:

My Japanese-inspired mosaic sweater is finished - or at least practically finished. I might reknit the neckband, adding a few rows too it, but otherwise I'm very happy with how it fits. For my first neckband attempt I chose a darker shade of green to match the last patterned row, but the distance between them made the neckband look a lot darker, so I gave it another try with a lighter and brighter shade of green.

A good thing about the lighter shade is that it works better with the sleeve cuffs, where I added a small mosaic pattern. Perhaps I could call the sweater Babar? (The cuffs remind me of his feet, which is why I didn't choose a brown shade - who wants to wear dirty toenails?)

This sweater needed extra side panels or it would have been slightly too tight for my taste. (Also, there isn't much weight to lose when it comes to my rather scrawny chest, and sawing off a couple of ribs wasn't a particularly tempting idea.) I was prepared for this early on but decided not to make up my mind until I had knitted the sleeves, although my idea was to make use of a contruction I tried a few years ago knitting (and modifying) another design by Marianne Isager. I actually enjoy turning something necessary into an opportunity to add a nice finishing touch to a project.

side panel

This solution, using slipped stitches to create columns, echoes how the sleeves go with the body; casting off from the right side creates a ridge in the middle that not only goes with the shoulder joins, but also blends with the seam under the sleeve.

Finally, a couple of short-row details before ending this year's last and rather self-congratulatory blog post:

short rows that create a sleeve cap

short rows that create a sleeve gusset sideways

Happy new year!

Mosaic sweater progress

It took some thinking and rethinking (not to mention knitting and reknitting) before I made up my mind about the sleeves. I decided patterned sleeves would be too much of a good thing; instead they would be grey with slipped stitches to create vertical lines like the ones in the body, the one in the centre elongating the line created by the shoulder join.

Here's the first attempt - or, rather, the third one, but the first one I took a photo of:

The slipped-stitch lines are evenly spaced, with the same number of stitches between them as there are between the lines on the back and front. A good idea in theory but less so in practice; it would look just fine if the sleeve was a separate unit (a not particularly useful garment) but attached to the body it simply doesn't look very tidy.


Here's the final arrangement, where the lines blend with the mosaic pattern repeats. This solution entailed narrower centre panels, but I actually think it looks as if this might be the original thought rather than a solution:

Right now I'm thinking of different mosaic pattern ideas for the cuffs to add some colour to them. Also, I will probably also add something to the provisional neckband.

The explorer

At long last I'm working on a mosaic knitting project. I've been interested in using the technique beyond swatches for quite a few years but not until now did I come up with the right mix of ingredients.


Kose (Visjö wool from Östergötlands ullspinneri) is a favourite colourway of mine, changing gradually from brown to different shades of green - beautiful on its own but in my opinion even more so against a neutral background like very light grey. Got the colour combination. Pattern next.

Labyrinth pattern

Marianne Isager (ever read that name here before?) has designed quite a few garments using mosaic knitting and slipped stitches, for example a child's sweater "Labyrinth" in her book Inca Knits. I always loved Greek key patterns, and this one works well with the Kose colour changes.

Rice fields pattern

For comparison I also cast on to try (a modified version of) Isager's "Rice Fields" from Japanese Inspired Knits, and must say I prefer it in spite of my love of Greek keys: the structure adds an element I like, and the overall effect will be a lot lighter. But what really made it an easy, practically natural, decision was the Japanese key word.

You see, I suddenly remembered why they named this colourway Kose: Chie Kose is a Japanese designer who asked the spinnery for this particular combination of these particular shades. Joining the two Japanese aspects felt like the obvious choice - and in my book a whiff of Danish never hurts.

In a finishing mood

Camel cardigan, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

I'm in a finishing mood, to the extent that I've even sewn seven buttons. (I appreciate Gwen Raverat's words "sewing was downright wicked slavery" in her adorable book Period Piece. A Cambridge Childhood.) The brioche cardigan had actually been finished for more than a week before I got around to it, even though I'd already found the perfect buttons... They're made of marble and I think they look fabulous with the wool. Their size was exactly right for the buttonholes too!

Some time ago I wrote a post about the shoulder straps: here's how they turned out:

I've finished the Monk no 2 sweater as well. Not that Marianne Isager's name "Monk" is very suitable anymore as I didn't keep the hood.

Also, I've made up my mind about the collar for my double-knitted jacket/cardigan. I've tried various ideas: I wanted something different from the main pattern and tried both triangles and stripes but wasn't satisfied. Then I suddenly thought I'd keep the small squares but use them into lego-like brick shapes. Of all the things I love about knitting, I think I like solving difficulties best.

Domino sweater: back

Domino sweater progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

This construction is quite unlike any sweater I've knitted before, and I'm in complete awe of Marianne Isager's skills as a designer.

I've knitted the shapes that make up the main part of the front (some of them halves to get straight sides and to shape the neck) and have started knitting the back. It's like the front: you start in an upper corner and add the shapes diagonally.

I spent Easter away from temperatures below zero and snow. No sign of yarn stores, but that doesn't really matter when you can bring your own yarn - even if it would have been nice to add some Maltese yarn to my stash. Instead I returned to Sweden with freckles, stronger legs from hours of walking instead and memories of new sights and new flavours. (When I'm abroad I always get interested in food in a way I never am at home and want to try things not likely to be found in Sweden. Sea urchin, for example, which was a treat.)

Valletta, Malta

Same but different

Domino sweater in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

You get a different effect knitting Marianne Isager's design with a single colour. In her original sweater there is more focus on the shape of the individual mitred squares, while my version will emphasise the overall effect of the combination of them: panels rather than squares, since the vertical lines stand out.

I like both of them, so I might make another one similar to the sweater in the book some day. Isn't fascinating what a difference even a minor change of colour(s) can make?

Domino sweater in progress

Domino sweater in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

There have been unusually many joys of knitting lately: all your comments on the Faroese sweaters make me very happy, I had a great weekend on the west coast as a workshop leader (twined knitting and lace patterns) and Marianne Isager's latest book arrived. She's one of my idols, so my expectations were high - and I was definitely not disappointed.

I've cast on to knit one of the sweaters, a design that consists of domino squares where you combine garter stitch and slipped stitches. The yarn is 2ply wool from Kampes, which I also use to knit the "spede" sweater I mentioned in my previous post.

Those sweaters are meant to be short and tight, and it's fun knitting a different sweater shape. The star pattern will cover the back and the sleeves, but not the front. Let's call it the bosom factor: the sweater is so tight that quite a few increases are necessary, and that would ruin the pattern. Therefore, the stars are in panels only with a stocking stitch area in the middle where all the increases are. This was not my own idea, but I got it from a 19th century sweater in a book I borrowed from Anna, who will get the sweater. Fortunately for me she will take care of the decorations once it's finished! Here is a beautiful example of a sweater made by Tålamodspåsen - who is more than capable of taking care of every single detail herself.

När bystfaktorn är hög gäller det att tänka efter innan man börjar med framstycket till en spedetröja. De ska ju vara korta och åtsittande, så det var nödvändigt att ha en hel del ökningar samtidigt som dessa skulle förstöra stjärnmönstret - och en slätstickad tröja är uteslutet. (Och då fuskar jag redan genom att ha alldeles för tjocka stickor för en riktig spedetröja. Hur tjocka? 2,25 mm.) I en bok jag har lånat finns det exempel på tröjor med ett slätstickat parti mitt fram där ökningarna ligger, så den lösningen knyckte jag med gott samvete.

Mitt andra (dvs senast tillagda) tröjprojekt är ett mönster ur Marianne Isagers senaste bok. Det är rätt roligt att lägga ruta till ruta, och jag tycker att effekten blir så fin med de vertikala linjerna som går mitt i rutorna. Till båda tröjorna har jag valt Kampes tvåtrådiga, och jag har skaffat det på Litet nystan i Stockholm. 

When in Rome

Isager's "Munken" in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

New sweater in progress: a second version of Marianne Isager's "Munken" (the monk) but with some new modifications. Like last time, I'm skipping the hood, but this time my plan is to make some kind of shawl collar - therefore, the neck opening is rectangular.

Writing to a knitter friend recently I realized that I've been surprisingly good at sticking to my stash-decreasing intention to make two projects with yarn from my stash before I may buy new yarn.

Good boys get to buy good yarn - and if they're really lucky they get to buy it in Rome! I'm back in Stockholm now, but the day before yesterday I bought some gorgeous cashmere at Lana della Vecchia near Campo dei Fiori. There were many beautiful colours, but this shade of red was Rome to me more than the other ones.

Till min stora förvåning insåg jag nyligen att jag har varit riktigt bra på att använda mer garn ur förrådet än jag lägger till det (två plagg med garn jag redan har innan jag får köpa nytt) så då var det ju min plikt att köpa garn när jag var i Rom nyligen. Det gick ganska fort att välja garn (kashmir!) men var desto svårare att välja bland alla de vackra färgerna som fanns. Till slut blev det den som var mest Rom för mig. 

Annars håller jag på med en ny version av Marianne Isagers "Munken" fast med några ändringar. Det blir inte någon huva den här gången heller utan jag funderar på någon typ av omlottkrage.

Contagion

Blending into the background, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

In April I suddenly discovered my new sweater matched the kitchen curtains at work. It still makes me smile - although come to think of it I probably haven't worn that particular sweater to work since then.

Today my Viften-clad colleague suddenly discovered she matched the curtains in her office! :-D

Viften/The Fan no 3

Viften/The Fan no 3, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

I've surprised myself by casting on a project practically identical to one I just cast off. Fair trade: I'm making this one for a colleague who's sewing me a shirt.

Any new modifications?

Anticipation...

Yes!
1. Border knitted in the round to avoid a seam at the back of the neck.
2. Border two repeats (see photo above) instead of three (photo here), partly simply for the sake of variation but primarily to save yarn. Each of the 28 repeats grows from 16 to 24 stitches wide. I think it looks nice this way too, and there's no need to worry about running out of yarn - and a couple of centimetres shorter will hardly make a difference.

Now over to some questions and comments on my previous post.

Ron: I picked up stitches around the armohole with a dark strand and wrapped with dark strands to keep the wraps from showing too much. (After discovering light wraps stand out a lot more.) I believe Alba is a Gaelic word for Scotland. (Incidentally, it is also Latin for "white" which is hardly the first thing that comes to mind when you see Starmore's design!)

Ann: it's difficult to explain why I had to turn it upside down, but I'll give it a try! The pattern itself is symmetrical, in a way that if knitted in two colours only there wouldn't be a problem. The colour sequences are symmetrical in a different way, though: a particular colour would be at the beginning of a pattern shape instead of at the end, for example. (Perhaps it wouldn't show much, but I didn't want to risk it. And it was a challenge I liked.)

Knitgoddess: I ordered a kit from Virtual Yarns. The colours are not identical to the ones in the book (and I believe the yarn is slightly thicker too) but at least they're Alice Starmore's own choice. Where can I see your "Pacific" sweater? Ravelry?

Isager's Viften/The Fan finished

Viften/The Fan, a design by Marianne Isager, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

Seamed, blocked and handed over to Åsa. The size was right for her, and she was happy with the modified sleeve length! Turned inside out it looks like this.

I'm quite obsessed with Alice Starmore's "Alba", knitting like mad. (A phenomenon not particularly uncommon...) I've modified it by shaping the armholes to make it a little bit less too big (see earlier post) and will modifiy the neck too; I want it slightly deeper and narrower than the original design. How I wish the photo captured the colours! The gorgeous hints of different greens are lost, for example.

Alice Starmore's "Alba"

Today is the last day of my summer vacation, so I'd better make full knitting use of it. Actually, it's my birthday too: I'm going to treat myself to extra extra knitting time! How old? 38. Really good age - my best so far!

Isager's Viften/The Fan

Isager's Viften/The Fan, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

Only seaming, darning and blocking left - and handing over to recipient, of course!

Yarn: BC Lucca Fino Tweed, 300 grams.
Needles: 3½ mm (US 4).


Modifications in short:

• back and front sections knitted together instead of separately
• slip stitches on right side (easier to see when to make them)
• increases and decreases on wrong side (less visible)
• type of border pattern decreases changed for a smoother look and feel
• there is a choice between short and long sleeves, but Åsa wanted medium length; I’ve made them 90 rows long between border and armhole with increases 6 times every 6 rows and 5 times every 8 rows
• border and back of neck grafted (Kitchener stitch) instead of three-needle bind-off to avoid a welt
• an extra stitch added at each side for selvedge, and I’ve slipped the first stitch every row with yarn in front and knitted the second one

I also cast on a lot more loosely than in my first version of this design for the scalloped edge to be more pronounced, and I added a first row (purls on right side) for the edge to curl slightly.

If I make it a third time I will knit the border in the round to avoid a welt where the edges are seamed.

First sleeve done

Isager's Viften/The Fan in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

There's a choice between short and long sleeves in the instructions; Åsa (who will get the cardigan) and I agree it would be nice with medium-length sleeves.

Here's my modified sleeve size if anyone's interested:

1. There are 90 rows from border to armholes.
2. Increases every 6 rows 6 times, then every 8 rows 5 times.

I've been adding to my collection of works in progress, starting Alice Starmore's "Alba" sweater. Stranded colourwork is really what I like best when it comes to techniques, especially knitting a pattern like this. You just can't beat her sense of colours - unfortunately, this photo does not do them justice.

I can't remember when I was this excited about a project last: it's a thrill seeing it take shape in my hands.

The only thing I can't understand is Alice Starmore's tension! I don't knit particularly loosely (don't think I've ever had to change needle sizes to get the gauge called for) but in this case I get 24 instead of 28 stitches per 10 cm (4 in) even though I use thinner needles, 3 mm instead of 3.25 (US 2½ instead of 3).

I could go down one more size but feel the sweater will be too stiff for my taste if I do. Instead, I'm following the directions for a size smaller than I want - and it will still be a bit too big!

Now, I love Alice Starmore's designs and would love to meet her and thank her in person for everything I've learnt and been inspired by - but judging from her tension I would hardly let her massage my shoulders ;-)

"The Fan" construction

Isager's The Fan/Viften in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

This is what it looks like folded into proper shape;
makes me eager to start knitting the missing sleeves!

Late last night I finished the raglan-shaped back section from the armholes to the back of the neck. I think Marianne Isager's construction is ingenious!

The border is to be seamed and then attached to the back. I think I will graft the pieces (Kitchener stitch) instead of a three-needle bind-off to avoid a welt. For the same reason I will probably knit the border in the round if I make it again.

Frogging and knitting

Isager cardigan (Viften/The Fan) in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

My stitch itch returned last week and full force too! What better way to celebrate than to start yet another project?

There was a turning point when I decided to frog a project I felt I wouldn't be pleased with if I finished it and knitted a couple of swatches to check gauge for different kinds of patterns and needle sizes.

Suddenly I remembered I had ideas how to modify an intriguing cardigan design by Marianne Isager that I knitted two years ago, "The Fan" from Japanese-inspired Knits.

Modifications:
1. Different border pattern decreases for a smoother look and feel (attempt to illustrate in photo above).

2. Back and fronts knitted together instead of separately to avoid seaming. If I make it a third time I will knit the border in the round to avoid a seam at the back of the neck.


3. Casting on a lot more loosely for a more pronounced scalloped effect than in my first version. I also used the cable cast-on method instead of the long-tail method and added a row (knits knitted on the wrong side) for the edge to curl a bit more. This may also be seen in the photo above, at least if you know about it!

4. Adding a row between border and main sections. This entailed making slipped stitches on the right side (easier to see when to make them) and decreases on the wrong side (looks smoother from the right side) instead of vice versa.

5. Adding an extra stitch for a selvedge, starting each row by slipping the first stitch with the yarn in front.

What else to say about this project? The yarn is lovely Lucca Fino Tweed from BC, and I use 3½ mm needles (US 4). 

"Jaws" cuffs

"Jaws" cuffs
Originally uploaded by Asplund

Thanks everyone for all your positive comments on my previous post - I appreciate them very, very much!

Ron asked about the cuffs, so here's a photo to show what I did: I took a row of "teeth" from the body (slightly thinner needles) and made it smaller, six stitches wide instead of eight. Then I knitted stranded stripes, cast off loosely and sewed it in place.

One of the many things I love about this yarn, BC Shetlandsuld, is how soft it becomes after washing. It's a bit rough to work with - which is a good thing in my opinion. I'm not very fond of slippery fibres like baby alpaca.


I think Marianne Isager would recognize her design "Andes" from Inca Knits in spite of my modifications, in short:

• Colours (completely different, 7 instead of 4, and a slightly different colour sequence).
• Rows knitted sideways on front and back not garter stitch but stranded colourwork.
• Sleeves in stranded colourwork, not garter stitch.
• Neckband split in front to match bottom border splits.
• Cuffs in “tooth” pattern to echo the front and back.

Teeth galore

Side join
Originally uploaded by Asplund

"Jaws" is taking shape; here's the side join.

I made the steek rather wide, since I didn't want to cut it open in the middle but to cut out the middle part of it with all the dangling threads.

Then I picked up stitches along the whole front and the whole back and started knitting the side panels vertically. The original design has garter-stitch side panels, but I prefer stocking stitch. (It's the same thing with the yoke). The first and last ten stitches are garter stitch, though, to blend with the bottom border and to keep it from curling. Also, I chose to have a split, which isn't in the original design. 



This is what the wrong side looks like.

 



I first tested making the side panels all brown, but changed my mind: I wanted to accentuate the construction with some stranded colourwork and decided to knit more "teeth" before a few all brown rows. I ended with a purl row (or, rather, a knit row on the wrong side) before casting the sides off together from the wrong side.



Ron asked about the sleeves. They will get more "teeth" (the more, the merrier) possibly turned into simple lines. Maybe a splash of orange or yellow... I'm surprising myself by not deciding very much in advance - I usually like deciding most things in advance but leaving some room for improvisation and changes.



Jaws

WIP: Andes by Marianne Isager
Originally uploaded by Asplund

All the borders with white triangles suddenly made me think of sharks and their multiple rows of teeth, so I'm going to rename the sweater Jaws.

The centre back and front sections are finished; right now I am crocheting "seams" in the steeks before cutting them to secure the strands. Next step will be joining the shoulders and then pick up stiches along the whole back and front to knit side panels and sleeves.

Hello sunshine

"Andes" wip
Originally uploaded by Asplund

The sun made a guest appearance today (it's been very cloudy recently) so I managed to take a photo of "Andes" that shows the colours properly. There will probably be 12 borders of white "teeth" in all, and I'm going to frame this section (shoulders, side panels and sleeves) with the greyish brown used in the split bottom border.

Let me tell you it's quite satisfying looking at all the dangling ends in the middle of the steek to the right knowing I won't have to weave in a single one of them!

In a comment on my previous post Ing-Marie i Säter asked me if the small project was a sleeve or a swatch. It was a swatch, partly to test gauge but mainly to try different ways to combine my colours. (Photo of the original version here.) These are my thought behind my colour choices:

1. My stash: 7 skeins of greyish brown, 3 natural white and 1 warm brown means lots of greyish brown for the frame, side panels and sleeves; leftover colours concentrated to the back and front centres.

2. Natural white used in all the borders for stability and to combine the other colours with (they all look good next to it) - and simply because I have quite a lot of it.

3. Two shades of brown (cool greyish and warm yellowish) alternating for variation.

4. Two purl ridges in differerent colours below each brown section. Yellow and orange looked nice with warm brown, and light brown and dark brownish green looked nice with cool brown.

5. Colour sequence alternating for variation: yellow-orange, brown-green, orange-yellow, green-brown...

There are many good challenges involved in this project. Apart from testing different ways to use the colours and trying a new way to construct a sweater, it's good to practise getting even tension when stranded colourwork and plain stocking stitch is combined.

Returning to Marianne Isager

Isager swatch
Originally uploaded by Asplund

First of all, thanks for all the wonderful comments on my last post!

Knitting lace shawls is great, but so is variation - so I've been looking for inspiration in my knitting books. Trust Marianne Isager! Here's an intriguing design in "Inca Knits" that I haven't paid much attention to before, but which kind of gave my stash a come-hither stare.

The construction is one I haven't tried and never would have thought of, for that matter. First you knit the multi-coloured sections of the back and front; then you pick up stitches along the sides to knit not only the sleeves but also the side panels.

Any modifications? Yes!
1. Colours. I'm using greyish brown and natural white Shetlandsuld I bought about half a year ago when my LYS celebrated 25 years. I'm spicing it with some leftovers from Zaire. The photo to the left does not do the colours justice, but will at least give you an idea.
2. I'm not knitting the multi-coloured sections back and forth, but in the round with steeks. A bonus is not having to weave in any ends: I start new rows in the middle of a steek and will simply cut the steeks open and trim the edges.
3. Minor modifications in the pattern with an extra colour and two stocking stitch rows skipped between purl ridges.