Showing posts with label Art Journalling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Art Journalling. Show all posts

Thursday, May 03, 2012

A little catch up....

Here are a couple of bits and bobs I've made recently that have seen the light of day elsewhere but not on here....

Firstly a couple of journal pages that I used as examples in a basic stencil/mask tutorial for UKScrappers

(I'll probably put the tute on here eventually, but in the meantime if you'd like a read, it is available to UKS members in PDF form here)

The first one deals with the unfortunate fact that I'm now on the downhill slide towards 50! noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!

How did this happen????  To be fair, I have got to admit that I'm enjoying my 40s more than either my 30s or my 20s - but I kind of wish I could be having all this fun in a body 20 years younger :D

The second page was a quickie to celebrate the fact that I'm booked in for a new tattoo!  It won't be happening until August, but the deposit's paid and I can't wait!

I'm having my very old Celtic style armband re-worked into a Haida  thunderbird - hence the "out with the old and in with the new!" bit...







Here's the old tattoo, done when I was still in my teens, I still really like it but it has got blurry with age (a bit like the rest of me :) ) and it doesn't really go with my Haida orca backpiece

And the bird is going to look something like this, nowhere near this big or intricate - but this gives you an idea of the general style and colouring:


My armband will become the horizontal black part of the wings (my tattooist is going to work my old design into something more "Haida-ish" :) ), and the heads of the bird will go up onto my shoulder with the tail and wing feathers hanging down onto my upper arm.

Exciting, if painful, stuff :)

And here's something completely different, over at Collabor-ART, I have paired up with the very talented Shirley.

We have each got hold of a pocket Japanese Moleskine journal (these things are very cool!  I got mine from my pal Vicki here)  and we are going to swap them back and forth adding to what's gone before until they are full (or we get bored :))

Fish by PEZ
I have already done a bit of work in mine to set the bright colourful tone I'm aiming for - and now it's ready for its first visit to Shirley's desk.


I think we are going to have lots of fun with this over the next few months.  I'll be sure to share how it develops


Thursday, March 29, 2012

Image transfers in your art journal - a photo-heavy tutorial

This tutorial is one I wrote for the (free and rather fabulous) six month Art Journey workshop over at UKScrappers

It's been up over there in PDF form now for a while, but I thought I probably ought to pop it up on my blog also, for any non UKScrappers members who might be interested....

So here you go :

In this tute we are going to tackle various methods for applying semi transparent imagery to your journal pages – commonly referred to as image transfers

All of these techniques use TONER based images – these come from a laser printer or photo-copier.  They will not work as well (or in some cases at all) with inkjet prints

If you do not have direct access to a laser printer, perhaps you have a partner or friend who works in an office and could run you off some photocopies?  Alternatively many post offices, newsagents, libraries and stationers have photocopiers available for public use for a small fee.

If you can’t get hold of toner based images, some magazine images and patterned scrapbook papers work well with some of the techniques, I even made some Eeyore stickers once for my little one using the packing tape method and some Disney wrapping paper, so go ahead and experiment!

Other materials we will be using are:


Gel medium, any brand, preferably soft bodied and gloss or semi gloss in finish
Clear packing tape or sticky backed plastic
Ordinary nail varnish remover


Method 1 – direct contact gel medium transfer

This involves transferring the image straight onto your page, and it isn’t always 100% reliable – it’s quite likely there may be bits of your image that don’t transfer properly.  I’ll show you a way in a little while to get a much more sturdy gel medium transfer, but this way is a lot quicker, and that distressed look is all the rage anyway :)

The first step is to coat your underlying surface, at least around the spot where the image transfer will be going, with a thin coat of gel medium to waterproof it - you’ll find out why that’s important in a moment….

Here I’m using watercolour paper with a simple spray ink background, as the image I’m going to be transferring is monochrome and quite busy, but you can transfer over pretty much any type of background.
Leave the gel medium to dry (a thin coat will only take a couple of minutes)

Next prepare your toner image – you will note that I have made a mirror image here on the photocopier, as all of this week’s techniques, with the exception of packing tape transfers, will reverse your image, so if your image has writing on it you may want to do the same.

Apply a fairly generous coat of gel medium to the surface of your image – imagine you are lightly buttering a slice of bread – and then while the gel medium is still wet, stick the image face down on top of your page or prepared surface:

Burnish the image down firmly with a bone folder or the back of a spoon.  Although maybe not quite as firmly as I did!  As you can see I ripped a couple of small holes in the paper in my enthusiasm.  But never mind, it all adds to that fashionably distressed look we mentioned earlier ;)

Now leave the whole thing to dry for at least a couple of hours.   Try not to give into temptation and speed matters up with a heat gun, as it can make the gel medium brittle and not adhere quite as thoroughly…

Once you are sure that everything is thoroughly dry, rip the non-stuck edges from around the image and then with a sponge and some warm water, gently wet the back of the paper.  You should see your picture, now the right way round, peeking through.

And now the fun bit!  With your finger, start to rub away at the paper backing.
Be careful not to be too rough with it as you could tear or lift up the image.

While the image is still wet, you might find that it looks finished and fully revealed, until it dries, and then there is still some paper pulp visible like in the photo below:


If this happens, just dampen it again and rub some more.

Eventually, you will have tired fingers, but your transferred image will look fabulous:


And here is the art journal page I turned it into:


Lots of green, white and orange – maybe subliminally the answer to my “where next?” question is Ireland!



Method 2 – membrane gel medium transfer

You’ll have noticed that I wasn’t brave enough to apply my image transfer in the last example directly onto my journal page within the book.  Instead I essentially made my own patterned paper to support the theme of my page.

I like how it turned out, but sometimes you want to integrate your transferred image more fully with the page.

Here is a risk free way to do that – this alternative way of using gel medium in your image transfers is more time consuming, but you generally get a pretty much perfect transfer, and as all the magic happens off page, it’s a lot safer – no risk of messing up that perfect background you have spent hours on….


First take your image – here I am using a colour photocopy, image transfers don’t have to be all in black and white – and apply a thin coat of gel medium all in one direction – the strokes here are all going left to right.

Let this dry completely, and apply another thin coat at right angles to the first – ie up and down.

Continue to apply alternating coats, horizontal strokes and vertical strokes, letting the medium fully dry between coats, until you have around 8 layers of medium on the image.  Leave the whole lot to dry thoroughly.

Next cut the image out roughly and give it a good soak in a shallow plate of warm water.

Once it’s nice and soaked through, it’s time to put your rubbing finger to work again (if it has recovered from the workout you gave it following method 1 :)   )


This time around, trust me, you can be a lot rougher when you are scrubbing off the paper backing than when it was direct onto paper - the membrane that you have created with all those coats of gel medium can really stand up to some abuse.  It’s flexible and a bit stretchy too.

Once all the paper pulp is off, here’s your end result, a floppy, plasticky, membrane with your image embedded in it:

Now all that’s left to do is to stick it to your page (using more gel medium of course, you’ll be needing job lots of the stuff!), and it will really merge into your background, with whatever is underneath – in my case some painted sheet music - showing through clearly:

And here is the final page in my art journal:


(It’s funny, I can say “art journal”, but “artist”?  nope.  That one really sticks in my throat….I wonder why?)


Method 3 – packing tape transfer

If after the last two techniques, you are fed up of peeling gel medium off your fingers, then this next one is for you (although personally I quite like picking it off my fingertips, making it look like my skin is coming off, and grossing out small children with it…..is that just me?  Alrighty then :)  )

For this method, your toner image doesn’t need to be reversed, even if has writing on it, but it does need to be quite small or narrow, as you will be using ordinary packing tape (ie that wide sellotape that people use to wrap up parcels for posting)

I chose this anatomical diagram and resized it to the width of my tape:


The tape in the photo is the absolute BEST for this technique – it is from Staples and it is called “clear view” – it has absolutely no yellow cast to it, like some other clear tapes do.  But any clear packing tape will do the job.

Stick a length of the tape over your image, and burnish it down firmly with a bone folder or the back of a spoon (you’ll have to excuse my fingernails in this picture, they are almost as paint encrusted as my table!)


Next up, yup, it’s the soak and rub again:

You’ll find though that it’s a lot easier to get the paper pulp off the packing tape than it was from the gel medium, so your finger shouldn’t get too tired with this one.

And that’s pretty much it – here’s the resulting “sticker” (the tape usually retains its stickiness even after soaking in water) hung up on my laptop screen so that you can see how see-through it goes:


NB If you have a larger image, that won’t fit onto the packing tape, you can use clear sticky backed plastic as an alternative.  I have found that some brands work better than others though, whereas pretty much any make of packing tape does the job.  Feel free to experiment. 

And here is the page I made with the transferred image.  It was supposed to be all worthy and about us all being brothers and sisters under the skin and all that….. but as I was preparing the transfer all I could think about was Robbie Williams’ Rock DJ video :)  So I got a bit sidetracked :)


Close up in better light:



Method 4 – nail varnish remover transfer

I’ve saved by far the easiest (and cheapest, assuming you already have a bottle of nail varnish remover knocking around the house somewhere) image transfer technique for last.

And you’ll be glad to hear, that with this one your paper rubbing finger finally gets a break!

Transfers from this method are less crisp than via the other techniques already covered, but that can work to your advantage when you want something more dreamy / ethereal looking , or you don’t want the image to be too prominent.

In this example, I wanted to use this cool contour image on a journal page about my favourite outdoor activity, geocaching:

But I didn’t want it to dominate my background.

One thing to be aware of with this technique is that you need to be mindful of what you are transferring onto.  For example, this is NOT a good method to use over acrylic paints, as acrylics are formulated very similarly to nail varnish, so the nail varnish remover does a very good job of dissolving them!  But it works great onto patterned papers, watercolour paints (dried) and fabric.  If you are unsure whether it will work onto a particular type of background, do a little test and see, the results are pretty much instant.

I’m using a simple background of pre-printed scrapbook paper with a green watercolour wash over the top.

Lay your photocopy over the top of your page, and, concentrating on a small section of the image at a time, wet the back of the paper with a small amount of nail varnish remover using a sponge or cotton wool ball (ie. don’t pour a load on):


The underlying image will become visible – quickly burnish it firmly with a bone folder or the back of a spoon.  I say quickly, because as you will find, the liquid will evaporate in less than a minute returning the paper to its original white state.  When you can’t see the image any more, then the transfer is finished.

When you have transferred all your image, bit by bit, lift off the photocopy and you should have a result similar to this:

The transfer is permanent once it has dried, so you can use wet media such as paints or sprays over the top without fear of smudging it.

(NB as an alternative to using nail varnish remover, you can purchase a xylene based blender pen – brand name Chartpak – which is brilliant for this type of transfer.  It gives a slightly crisper and more reliable image than the varnish remover.  Available from art supply stores or online)



And here is my finished journal page using the transferred background:


You can see the transfer just well enough for it to support the overall theme, and also give a nod to the “it’s not about the numbers” sentiment – but it doesn’t overpower the background as it may have done if it was darker.



This brings this image transfer tutorial to an end – I do hope that you will give it a go

I know a lot of people are put off from using image transfers in their journals because they think they look too fiddly, or because they have tried them in the past without much joy.  There are lots of conflicting instructions out there in blogland and beyond, some of which seem to work, others not so much.  But the four techniques I’ve shared with you here are ones that I consistently get good results from, so hopefully they will work for you too!

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Art Journey sneaky peekies....



I have been a busy bee this week preparing page samples for next week’s tutorial over on UKScrappers as part of their *free* six month art journalling workshop – here are some sneaks. 

Can you guess the subject of my “class”??

It goes live next Monday (materials list / research) and Wednesday (tutorial)

See you there!

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Make your own long-stitch bound journal : a photo heavy tutorial


If you have arrived here from the UKScrappers Art Journey - welcome! This is the tutorial for the “making your own journal” option.

If you have come from elsewhere – you’re also very welcome :) please enjoy the tutorial in its own right 

Step by step, I'll go through exactly how I made the journal pictured in my last blog post.  Hopefully you will find it easy to follow, and might be inspired to make one of your own (and if you do, I'd love to see it!)

Like many art journallers (or should that be art journallists??), especially those with a scrapbooking background who are used to having patterned paper to use as a foundation, I often suffer from “white page syndrome” – starting with a completely blank page, or, scarier still, a completely blank spanking new journal, can be daunting!

So here are instructions to build yourself a journal that starts its life already full of colour, pattern and texture, just enough to give your pages that little head start…

You will need:

1)      Various papers
2)      A ruler
3)      Paper trimmer or scissors and a steady hand
4)      Leather, grungeboard, upholstery fabric, or any other durable, flexible material to cover your book
5)      Awl or other sharp pointy tool
6)      Waxed bookbinding thread (if you have no ready waxed thread you can make your own by pulling embroidery thread through a block of beeswax)
7)      A large needle
8)      A small plate or saucer
9)      Optional – leather cord or ribbon to make a book closure



Step one – gather papers

This is the most fun step – as you get to rummage through your stash of papers, ephemera, even fabrics, to find potential pages for your new book – who doesn’t love to spend a few hours paper stroking?

Ideal candidates:


Heavyweight scrapbook papers – especially double sided

Pages from old books and dictionaries, sheet music, braille paper

Hand painted and inked papers left over from old projects or experiments

Handmade and speciality papers

Some plainer papers – thin cardstock, watercolour paper etc – to balance out all the patterns

Old postcards – both the picture and written sides will make an interesting base for a journal page

And anything else you think might work – acetate panels, felt and stiff fabric, perforated cardstock, go on, throw it all into the mix!

Other ideas – envelopes, junk mail, your own photographs….honestly, anything goes!



Step two – prepare your signatures

“Signatures” are simply the bookbinding world’s word for groups of pages.  For this book, we will be using three-sheet signatures – essentially little folded pamphlets of 6 pages each.

So you will need to sort the papers and ephemera that you sorted out in step one, into groups of three that go together fairly well, and then cut these to size.


For my book I settled on a page size of 7.5” height by 5” width – so I cut most of my sheets to 7.5” by 10” and then folded in half.  At least the outside page of each signature needs to be full size, but inner pages can be smaller.

Fold all pages, especially the trickier ones like acetate sheets, firmly with a bone folder to ensure a crisp fold

Add some flaps and pockets to some pages as they will be fun to work with later on:

(apologies for the state of my work table in some of these pics, by the way, it has so much old paint on it that it’s a minor work of art in its own right! :) 

And cut some small mini insert pages from scraps to add in here and there:


If any of your papers are too thin and flimsy, glue two or more sheets together with a glue stick or gel medium, to provide a more heavyweight foundation: 


Join unconnected or smaller pages together at the fold point with decorative tape:


Eventually you will have a set of signatures, each containing three folded sheets, all cut to size and ready to bind:

I am making a big book here, with many signatures, you might want to aim for something smaller – 5 or 7 signatures makes a nice book, but any odd number works well.



Step three – binding the book

First you need to make yourself a guide.

Take a scrap piece of cardboard, the height of your book (in my case, 7.5”), fold it in half, and mark a cross on the fold half an inch from each end.

Then divide the distance between these two crosses into 5 and mark 4 more crosses equally spaced along the rest of the guide, as below:


Use an awl or other similar sharp pointy tool (a needle or drawing pin would do the job at a pinch), to make holes through the centres of the crosses. 

Use this guide in the middle of each of your signatures in turn, to make holes in the right places in the folds:


You will end up with a stack of pierced signatures like these:


Next, cut a section from whatever you are using to cover your book – I am using an offcut of leather – but any strong/durable yet flexible material – eg grungeboard/grungepaper, leather-like vinyl, upholstery fabric- will work well.  This needs to be a little taller than your book, and wide enough to loosely wrap around your full set of signatures with a generous overlap (see below):


Place your stack of signatures on the cover material in such a way that the front cover piece folds over with around half an inch overhang, and then carefully open it up leaving the signatures in place, and use a ruler to mark the left hand edge of your bottom signature:


Mark a line along the right hand edge of the ruler, and use your guide, folded, to pierce six holes.
Work along to the left, piercing a set of holes for each of your signatures, just under quarter of an inch apart:


Once you have pierced all of your binding holes – in my case I decided to go with 11 signatures in the end – so I pierced 11 sets of 6 holes – you might want to cut a slit to put your closure ribbon/cord through later on.  This is entirely optional, but if you do want one it’s a lot easier to cut it now than after you have bound the book!

Cut two slits with a sharp craft knife about half way down what will eventually become the spine of the book (in between the 3rd and 4th holes heightwise, and in the middle of your signatures widthwise)   

You can see the positioning on this picture of the finished book:





Now you are ready to start sewing.


Place your last signature (the one that will end up at the back of the book) against the right-most set of holes in the inside cover (where you made your ruler mark), and thread your needle with a manageable amount of waxed thread.

Start sewing from inside the book, at the second from bottom hole – and leave a tail of thread a few inches long:

Sew with a simple running stitch (out one hole, in the next) up to the top hole, keeping the thread pulled tight as you go.

Then introduce your second-from-last signature, and sew to the left and into the top hole of the new signature, and use running stitch all the way down this new signature to the bottom hole.
And carry on running up one signature, over to the left, down the next signature, over to the left, and so on, remembering to pull the thread tight as you go.  You should see this pattern emerging on the outside spine of your book:

At some point along the way, you will probably run out of thread and need to add a new length in.
To join the new thread, make a weaver’s knot, which is very secure and can be positioned precisely (this is best done inside the book, not on the outside):

Make two loops in the new thread:




Put the right hand loop through the left hand loop as so:




Tighten the left hand loop, but not completely:




Put the old thread (B) through the big loop in the new thread.  Tighten the knot at C by pulling the new thread at A.  Trim the ends leaving around a quarter of an inch.



The final knot looks like this:


When you have bound in all of your signatures, sew back the other way, filling in all the missed stitches at the ends, and doubling up all of the stitches in the middle for all but your first and last signature.

The completed bound spine will look like this:


Your thread will emerge at the end back where you first started, where you left the tail of thread in the first signature you sewed.  Tie the two loose ends together with a normal double knot and trim the ends to complete the binding process:



Step Four: finishing touches

Use strong scissors to carefully trim your cover material to size at the top and bottom of the book, and the front cover, leaving approximately quarter of an inch overhanging the pages:


For the back cover, we want a generous amount of overlap for the book wrap, as trust me, once you start art journaling in this book it will grow and grow!

So leave more than you think you need, and then cut the edge into a semi circular shape using a small plate as a template:

Add a leather cord or ribbon to keep the book closed, and that’s your new art journal built, and all ready for you to fill it with pretty :)