Wedding Dress Adventure: First Draft

First Draft

Sewing my daughter's wedding gown is turning out to be a real "learn by doing" experience.

I finally got her into the first wedding dress muslin, or "first draft" as she calls it.  I think the most difficult part will be arranging to be in the same state for fittings!  This photo was taken in a hotel room in Charlotte, NC.  Since neither of us lives in Charlotte,  I had to stuff two muslins into an already crowded car and schlep them to North Carolina for the first fitting. Lesson number one:  Take advantage of every opportunity for fitting.

Luckily, the gown won't need lots of adjustment.  She wants a roomy fit so she can eat at the reception.  (Do brides actually have time to eat at a reception?)

The next step was making a muslin for the lace overlay.  I had to combine two different patterns to get an overlay that matched the silhouette of the gown.  The overlay will have long sleeves and jewel neckline.  The pattern I'm using for the overlay did not have the empire waist, so I drafted the bottom of the gown bodice onto the neckline and sleeves of the overlay.  That involved …gasp… moving a dart!  I went to my vast library of sewing books and found the help I needed in The Pattern Making Primer (Barnfield and Richard, 2012). I bought this book, not because I needed another pattern drafting book, but because I happened to be in a book buying mood on that particular day.  Lesson number two:  Buy all the sewing books you can.  You never know when a book you bought on a whim will be just what you need.

It should have been immediately apparent to me, but it wasn't until I began to think about actually sewing the first draft of the overlay that I realized I should be using cheap lace instead of cheap muslin! Well, duh!  The ubiquitous 40% off JoAnn coupon came in handy!  I bought nine yards of JoAnn's Casa Collection special occasion lace. Lesson number three:  Save those JoAnn coupons. 

World's worst lace?

I've loved sewing for over forty years and sewing that lace from JoAnn may have been the worst experience of my sewing life.  I think Jack Nicholson said it best in Terms of Endearment - "I'd rather stick needles in my eyes."  No, wait. Let me express that more positively.  Lesson number four:  I need to be very, very, very careful when selecting the real lace.  I ran to my bookshelf, tripping over the cats as I ran, and pulled out Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture and once my hands stopped shaking, I read the chapter on lace.  Knowledge is power.  I felt better after learning about different types of lace.

After drafting three bodice patterns and sewing that horrible challenging lace, I have something for DD to try on when she is here at the end of August. (see Lesson number one above)

While most of the family members were in the same place at the same time, DD and her cousins looked for the junior bridesmaid dress.  I was told, kindly but firmly, that I had no input in the selection of the girls' dresses.  Getting three different girls, under 13 to agree on the dress was an adventure in itself.  But it was fun and I enjoyed seeing them all dressed up.  I was glad my input was not required.  Lesson number five:  Enjoy the ride and don't sweat the small stuff.

Finished: V1260

Vogue 1260

I took a baby step outside of my comfort zone with this blouse.  First, it's not Burda!  I sew Burda patterns almost exclusively. Lately, I've been looking at, buying and actually sewing other patterns.  Second, it's not a style I would normally choose for myself.  Sandra Betzina wore it at PR Weekend San Francisco.  I liked it on her, even though I passed it over in the Vogue catalog.  I bought the pattern the next day without waiting for a $3.99 sale at JoAnn.

I find Today's Fit designs a little quirky.  Vogue's writers describe it like this: "Semi-fitted blouse. Shirred effect is caused by elastic sewn to seams.  Optional trim or cording. Optional sleeve tabs."  Today's Fit sizing is also a little quirky.  Sandra Betzina devised a whole new table of measurements that seem to suit me quite well.  One of the things I like about this pattern is the many options it provided.  It can be color-blocked or solid, trimmed or untrimmed, long or capped sleeves, buttons or snaps.  I chose individual options, but I like the gestalt of this blouse.  I couldn't name a particular feature that appealed to me, but I knew I had to have this top.

Sandra Betzina provided extra tips and techniques in her Today's Fit patterns.  The instructions were easy and the tips, in this case hemming with Steam-a-Seam and shirring with clear elastic were helpful.  I didn't use the Steam-a-Seam hemming technique because I couldn't find 1/4" Steam-a-Seam.  Sandra has you apply the S-A-S to the right side of the hem and double fold it, the iron to adhere the hem before sewing.  I just serged the edge and double folded using the serging as a guide.  The clear elastic shirring technique is much easier than the technique I normally use.  I cut the elastic to a specified length and stretched it as I sewed it to the seam.  When the elastic is relaxed and returned to it's original length the shirring appears like magic.  No fussing with gathers as I've done in the past.

I used my favorite summer fabric - LINEN!  I love sewing and wearing linen, in spite of the wrinkles.  This color is not the best for me, but I loved it on the bolt.  Still, I'm happy with this top because it represents a change for me.  I usually sew Burda and I usually stick to boring plain designs. This is a nice, light top for summer.  and it will be perfect for the 90º+ days I know are coming.

Another step outside my comfort zone:  I didn't have to crop off my head in this photo.  I use a self-timer to take photos for this blog.  I have a hard time producing a natural looking facial expression when I'm interacting with a camera instead of a human.  I end up looking like I just witnessed (or committed) a vicious murder. So, I spent $75 on Photoshop Elements so I could, among other things,  pixelate or otherwise distort my face.  And wouldn't you know, after spending the money, somehow I managed to squeeze out a natural looking smile.

The Fastest Knit Top in the West

Burda Style Magazine:  04-12-139A

I remember when sergers were first marketed to the home sewer.  Part of the hyperbole was "Make a t-shirt in hours!"  This must have been the t-shirt they were talking about. This top was so freakin' easy!  I'd bet I spent more time prepping (photocopying the instructions, tracing pattern etc.) than actually sewing.  This top is essentially the same as the charmeuse top I made for my sister's birthday party.  The only difference is the fabric:  woven v. knit.

This little top officially ends my "I-don't-like-sewing-knits" period.  All it took was for me to learn more about knits by sewing lots and lots of t-shirts.  I learned about different types of knits and I learned I like sewing some types more than others.  For instance, this knit was easy to handle, but I doubt if it has even one natural fiber in it.  It doesn't breathe at all.  So, if I'm careful about the knits I choose, sewing knit garments will be as enjoyable as sewing wovens.

Finished: Burda 8244 & Burda 3152

These OOP patterns are oldies-but-goodies.  Both are super simple and both are super quick.  If I'd had no other plans and the right color blue thread for the t-shirt, I could have made both pieces in a day.

Burda 8244: T-Shirt

The t-shirt has three options: cap sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless tank top.  I chose view B.  I added a band on the neckline rather than a facing. I guess I felt a little daring.  The hem of the shirt is pinned up in the photograph above.  The body of the shirt is too long and I need to cut off at least 2 1/2 inches. Another change I might make is to add some shaping to the waist area.  Pamela Leggett of Pamela's Patterns called it "essence of waist" in her Perfect T-Shirt DVD.  I think this t-shirt would be more flattering with some essence of waist.  So it looks like this quickie t-shirt needs a little more time.


Burda 3152: Skirt
After owning this pattern for years and letting it languish in my pattern drawer, it has become my go-to pattern for a fast and easy skirt.  This is the second time I've made it in a week.  I remember teasing my 80+ year old aunt about patterns she held on to for decades. (She has patterns that cost 65¢!!!)  I may be doing the same thing.

I really like this simple outfit.  It's comfortable and is perfect for relaxed occasions.

A Chip Off the Old Block?

My daughter is enjoying her sewing journey.  She made this pillow for her fiancé, who is currently in Afghanistan.

I think it looks very military - the red and the gold braid are perfect. 

 Here is her commentary: "You'll notice that the cord fringe doesn't come together nicely like a thinner fabric fringe would so I actually had to tuck both ends of the cord into the pillow and then an elaborate version of the slip knot to secure it all in place. Feel free to post this pic on your blog! "

She is overly critical of her work, just like many of us sewers.  But, she's already meeting the inevitable challenges of sewing.  I think the pillow is wonderful!

Finished: McCall's 6563 & Burda 3152

Nothing says glamour like bias cut charmeuse.  I think this skirt and blouse is more festive than the black dress of the previous post.

The Top: McCall's 6563
For my top, I originally chose a Burda magazine pattern with modifications.  But I was afraid it would be too loose fitting and boxy to be worn with the full skirt.  So I searched the websites and found M6563.  The bias cut gives the top a little more shape than a straight cut.  I went to my local JoAnn and they didn't have the pattern in my size.  I called a second, less local but convenient JoAnn and they didn't have it either.  I called a third, even less local and totally inconvenient JoAnn and thankfully, they had it.   I could have waited until the next day instead of driving 14 miles out of the way, but I'm retired and I have more time than sense.  Besides, I wanted to spend the next day sewing the top.

The top was very easy to sew.  I wanted to be sure the narrow hem on the sleeve looked good, so I did not use my narrow hem foot.  I used the method  for the Chiffon Hem in High Fashion Sewing Secrets, (Shaeffer, 2001).

The Skirt:  Burda 3152
I've had this pattern forever.  I've done two pattern purges recently, and this pattern made it through both. The skirt is a simple four paneled A-line with an elastic waist.  Since it has an elastic waist, it was very easy to cut a larger size to give the skirt more fullness.  And, since it is so easy to sew, I'm going to make at least one other version.


Now that my party outfit is set, I can practice my Wobble and Cupid Shuffle. I might even drop it like it's hot!

Finished: Burda Plus Fashion SS-10-427

Introduction:  My youngest sister is throwing herself a big 40th birthday party.  It started out as a formal affair but has morphed into a less formal party in which the guests are being asked to wear black.  I bought 6 yards of black crepe during PR Weekend in San Francisco and made BPF Spring/Summer 2010 #427.

BPF SS-10-427

Pattern Description:  Dress with princess seams that begin in cut-on sleeves.  The center front panel gathers into the side front seam.

Pattern Sizing:  Plus size range 44 - 52

Fabric Used:  synthetic crepe

Were the instructions easy to follow?:  The trickiest part of the dress and instructions was the inset corners on both the front and the back.  I remember inset corners I made many years ago.  They were horrible.  Burda instructs the sewer to stitch the seams in two steps; breaking the seam at the corner and clipping the seam allowance between steps. There is another way to do an inset corner using organza, but I didn't remember where I saw the method so I depended on Burda's instructions.

Adding seam allowances to the sleeves was interesting.  The pattern piece was oddly shaped and there wasn't enough room to draw on the  5/8 inch seam allowances.  So I didn't add them to the area.  Instead, I rough-cut around the area and marked the stitching line with thread tracing.  The pros mark stitching lines and rough-cut seam allowances.  I didn't freak out when I realized I couldn't draw in 5/8th seam allowances, but felt very professional using this method.

I sewed on the thread traced seam line, then clipped up to the stitching line as instructed.  It worked on three out of the four corners.  I can't explain what went wrong, but one corner didn't come out evenly.

To gather the front, I marked the finished length on a strip of stay tape.  I used the stay tape as a guide when gathering so that the gathered section was  the correct length and sewed the stay tape to the front piece.  The stay tape is sheer and didn't add bulk to the seam.

Burda translations are usually awkward and sometimes funny.  The instructions referred to the left and right front pieces as "center front with right sleeve front" and "center front which lies beneath with left sleeve front".  Every time I read it, I though of a 1950s horror movie like "The Creature That Lies Beneath".

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?:  I liked the gathering because it hides my belly.

Conclusion:  Once the dress was finished, I realized it wasn't festive enough for a birthday party.  Very appropriate for a funeral, but not a birthday party.  I have another plan for the birthday party that will allow me to stay within the party dress code but not look like I'm in mourning.

I wish I could do a better job of photographing a black dress.

It's not easy to tell from the photo, but the dress turned out very well.  I won't wear it to my sister's party, but every woman needs a black dress.  Now I have one.

Finished: BSM 01-13-133B

When I was a child, shopping for a new Easter dress was an exciting event. My next door neighbor and I would show each other our new outfits. We couldn't wait to wear them to Sunday School and to see what the other girls were wearing.    When my daughter was a child, I shopped for fabric for her Easter dresses many weeks in advance.   It didn't matter that I made all of her dresses; making her Easter dress was special.

Burda Style Magazine 01-13-133

So perhaps it was a nostalgic longing that made me wake up last week and tell myself, "I'm gonna make me an Easter Dress!"  I didn't have time to shop for fabric, but I had a piece of tomato red crepe in the sewing room closet.  I searched through my Burda Index and found a suitable dress in the January 2013 issue.

The dress looks better in real life than it does in the photo below.  I used crepe which dressed up the design a little.  I like that the dress is fully lined with self fabric.  It made the crepe more substantial and the dress has an expensive feel.  I didn't have enough of the crepe on hand, so I had to make a trip to JoAnn's and try to match the color.  I didn't find a perfect match, but it was for the lining and no one sees it.

As usual, the slit in the front exposed way too much skin, so I raised it an inch and put a hook and eye in the middle of the slit to close it up a little.  If I make this dress again, I would also add some interfacing to the slit to give it a little more stability.  Another issue was the loose fit.  My top half is two sizes larger than my bottom half so the bottom half, beginning at the waist, has a very loose fit.  If I make this dress again, I'll blend down a size on the waist and skirt when tracing.

The dress fits more loosely than I expected. Making a muslin would have fixed that. In spite of the issues, I was happy with the results, primarily because I loved the fabric.  I had a new Easter dress and I felt like a little girl again.

And while we're on the subject … can I really tell how a dress is supposed to fit when the fashion photo looks like this?  Come on, Burda.  A little help please?

Finished: Kwik Sew 3013

It's been many months since I've posted a "Finished:" post.  It's been many months since I've posted any post. I haven't had a mojo for sewing or blogging.  I've sewn more wadders than successes.  It's best not to sew when your mojo is gone.  When a project turned out well,  dragging out the backdrop, tripod and camera seemed too much effort.  Finally,  I finished an easy project at the same time my laziness didn't prevent me from taking a picture and writing a blog post.

Kwik Sew 3013:  Click for PR review

I wanted a simple knit top to wear around the house.  I love wearing knits, but I don't love sewing them.   The cut edges rolled up, one of the things I hate most about sewing knits, but because it's a heavier weight, the roll-up was manageable.  This top is so comfortable, I didn't want to take it off after taking the photograph.  Previously, I made this top using a medium weight knit, but it just didn't look right when I finished.  Choosing the wrong fabric is a mistake I keep making over and over again.

I used one of my machines functional stitches, the double overlock stitch,  for decorative hems and neckline.  It adds a little ready-to-wear look to the simple top.

Now that my sewing mojo (and maybe even my blogging mojo) is back, I may get back to more challenging projects.

Finished: BSM 05-12-135 & BPF FW-06-402

Seems like a long time since I've sewn an actual "outfit" the way I used to.  I got sidetracked and started buying fabrics differently.  I bought single pieces.  But, I'm back into the outfit mode again.

See sidebar or click here for pattern review.

Blouse  BSM 05-2012 #135

Pattern Description: 
Just when I  was looking for a camp shirt pattern, BurdaStyle Magazine gives me this pattern.  It's a short sleeved blouse with a sleeve band.  Sometimes BurdaStyle gives me just the right pattern – just not always when I want or need it.  In church we often say, "He may not come when you want him, but He's always right on time." I don't mean to be blasphemous, but the same can be said about BurdaStyle.

Pattern Sizing:
European plus size - 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I see a BurdaStyle Magazine pattern and I think I know how to complete a particular technique, in this case, the sleeve band.  Then I read the poorly translated instructions and think, "Huh???"  I  parse out the translation and discover my technique and BurdaStyle's technique are the same.  The problem is the language.  Diagrams would have saved the time I spent scratching my head.   BurdaStyle doesn't do diagrams.  I accept that.   I still want pictures sometimes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like camp shirts and the sleeve band adds a little "something different" to an otherwise typical camp shirt.  I didn't even know I wanted "something different" until I saw the pattern.  My first thought was to omit the band, but then I thought I should really get freaky and keep the sleeve band.  The band is purely decorative in that it doesn't open, but it's a nice design element.

Fabric Used:
I bought this cotton-poly blend at G-Street Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The buttons on the sleeve band were not included in the original design.  The instructions called for a hand-stitched X on band.  I think on a solid color lightweight denim type fabric, that would look okay, but I really couldn't picture it on this blouse.

Conclusion:
I can see this blouse made slightly more dressy by using a solid silk fabric.  As much as I like camp shirts, I'm sure I'll make this again.

Pants BPF FW-2006 #402

These pants are from my Docker Knock-Off collection.  They are typical fly front side pocket pants to which I added welt pockets.

Pattern Sizing:

European 44 - 52

Were the instructions easy to follow? 

If I had a nickel for every pair of fly front side pocket pants I made, I could probably go on an long vacation.  I didn't need or use the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

I like this pattern because, with a few simple changes, it transforms into Docker-style pants.

Fabric Used: 

Cotton-poly blend twill

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

To get that authentic Docker look, I added single welt pockets to the back.  I was worried about putting a buttonhole directly on top of a dart, so I made a sample first.  There didn't seam to be any problems wit it.  I can't say enough about the welt pocket instructions in Pants for Real People.  I no longer fear the welt!

I extended the front yoke to the zipper extension.  This eliminates the unattached, flappy front pockets.  I don't remember a BurdaStyle pattern that included this extension.  I just have to remember to make the simple adjustment on every pair of pants.

Conclusion:

This pattern has definitely moved into the TNT category.  Now, I'm always on the lookout for twills in interesting or neutral colors to make more Docker Knock-offs.

Finished: Kwik Sew 3866 (Rant & Review)

Chapter 1

The Rant

I have a problem with knits.  It's not a secret.  I was feeling more confident about knits until I met this green fabric last month at G-Street Fabrics in Falls Church, VA.

Ridiculous amount of rolled up edge!

Some knits just will not lay out smoothly for pinning and cutting.  This fabric behaved just like the red knit that made me rant and rave two years ago.  It had a infuriating tendency to roll up at the edges.  I like to match the selvages and fold the fabric in half.  Is that wrong?  Is that too much to ask?  Since it was impossible to place anything on a fold, I ended up tracing a full front, back, and collar pieces and two separate sleeves.  I forgot about folds and laid everything out on a single layer.

Maybe I'm over-reacting.  I've been known to do that.  After I got the pieces cut out, I experimented with the suggestions from my previous rant. I tried pressing. I tried spray starch. Some of the techniques helped, but I still wasn't satisfied.  I just want knits to behave like wovens and that will never happen. Maybe I just shouldn't be sewing knits.

Chapter 2

The Review

Click here or see sidebar for Pattern Review

One can never have too many polo shirts.  Polo shirts are a slightly less casual than t-shirts, but just as comfortable.  Now that I have Kwik Sew 3866 I can pick-up (easy to fold) knits (that don't roll up) suitable for polo shirts every time I see them.  This pattern offers long-sleeved and sleeveless versions as well as the short sleeved version.

Kwik Sew's instructions often are much easier than other pattern company's instructions.   I struggled trying to follow Burda's instructions for a front placket.  Kwik Sew's instructions were as easy as pie.  The band is interfaced and that made the knit behave a little better.

I'm not sure about the fiber content because I found this fabric on the $2.97 table at G-Street Fabrics.  I suspect it's cotton because it pressed so well.  (You'd think I would have been able to press out those rolled up edges!) When it was time to press up the hem, it held the crease better than any knit I've had the displeasure to press.  I had to use my walking foot on any seam that wasn't serged.  The fabric tended to drag and would have made a huge gap when I reached the end of a seam.  I used the walking foot when sewing the upper and under collars together and when top stitching the placket.  So that dragging wouldn't be an issue, I used the cover stitch capability of my serger to hem the sleeves and bottom.

In spite of the knit's idiosyncrasies, this was an easy shirt to sew.  The pattern was so easy, you could almost ignore the knit fabric.  I'll make more of these tops if I can find knits that know how to behave.

Finished: BSM 10-2011-137 & BSM 02-10-137

See sidebar for PR Review or
 click here: Pants   Blouse 

Bringing this outfit to fruition was like a birthing a 12 pound baby after a 36 hour labor.  The biggest obstacle was my OCD about matching fabrics.  Then I took a little quilting detour in the middle of the project.  But, it's finished.

Pants:  BSM 10-11-137

I don't remember where I bought the fabric for the pants, but if I'd known it would be so hard to match, I would have left it in the store.  The fabric is woven with dark olive green and brown threads (and even a little black) so it doesn't know if it wants to be green or brown.  If I chose brown as a coordinating fabric, the fabric looked green and vice versa.  I took the swatch to three different fabric stores hoping to find a coordinating fabric for a blouse.  I'm not entirely happy with my final choice but I just refused to worry about it anymore.  Lesson learned:  Get over this unhealthy "fabrics have to match" obsession!

I added a partial lining to the front of the pants.  This technique was used on another Burda pants pattern I made recently and I like the results.  I traced the pants front, including the hip yoke section, to just below the knee.  After the pockets were finished, I basted the lining to the pants front and treated the two layers as one.  Technically, the technique I used is underlining, not lining.

From Threads website:

Underlining vs. lining
Let's clear up one point first: lining and underlining a garment are two different procedures, and depending on their purpose, one or both can be used in a single piece of clothing. Usually cut from a slippery fabric, lining is attached only at the garment's waistband or neck, and sometimes its hem -- otherwise, it hangs free in the garment. It's generally used to give a finished look to the inside of the garment, prevent seams from raveling, reduce wrinkling, help conceal some figure faults, and make a garment easier to slip on and off.

Underlining, on the other hand, is cut from the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric and is attached before construction begins. Then, as the garment is constructed, the underlining and fashion fabric are handled as a single unit. Most often, underlining is cut from fine cotton batiste, light- to medium-weight cotton broadcloth, or silk organza. But a variety of other materials can also be used to underline a fashion fabric.

Blouse:  BSM 02-10-137 

I bought three different pieces of fabric to make a top for the pants.  The more I worked with the first piece, a green silk, the less I liked it with the pants fabric.  It wasn't the right green.  So I set it aside, hoping it wouldn't morph into a UFO, and I ordered a tan knit. I didn't like that either.  I finally found a dark olive peachskin at JoAnn Fabrics & Crafts.

The same main pattern pieces are used for the blouse and a dress.  The blouse instructions say to add 5/8" seam allowances and the dress instructions specify a 3/8" seam allowance.  Because the blouse front is placed on the fold, it is impossible to add 5/8" seam allowance to the front placket area – that would eliminate the placket opening. There has to be a 3/8" seam allowance on the placket opening and on the front band.  There is no mention of that in the seam allowance instructions.  Fortunately, I remembered this problem from the first time I sewed this pattern.  It's not enough to thoroughly read Burda's instructions for the garment I'm sewing.  Now, I have to read the instructions for all of the garments that use the same pieces.  Sheesh.

For some unknown reason, I wanted to make and use piping.  This blouse called for pleated trim around the placket and cuffs.  I substituted the piping.  I've never been overly successful making bias strips by the sew-a-twisted-tube method.  I found an easier method that requires folding a square or rectangle of fabric.  Another little tip:  The Bernina bulky overlock foot #12 is recommended for making piping.  However, my piping was much thinner than the channel in the foot so the foot wasn't securely holding the filler cord in position.  I used the three-groove pintuck foot #30 instead and it worked beautifully.

I used polyester peachskin to make this blouse. I know I vowed never to sew polyester again, but promises are made to be broken, right?  I was more concerned about the color than anything else.

Finished: BWOF 11-2007-132A and BSM 08-200-11-138

The Outfit

See sidebar or click for review:  Skirt  Blouse

It seems like a long time since I've sewn a coordinating top and bottom.  I haven't been able to find coordinating pieces of fabrics when shopping.  The colors are quite a bit brighter than I'm used to wearing.  I hope I have the guts to wear it.

The Skirt:  BWOF 11-2007-132A

I like this skirt a lot, but it highlights a problem I'm having with Burda Magazine.  This skirt came from a 2007 issue – when it was called Burda World of Fashion.   I really don't have the space to store old Burdas. But I'm still finding things I want to make in older issues so I don't want to get rid of them either.  I've already given away 2005 and 2006 and I'm afraid to get rid of any more.  This issue was in the next batch to be disposed of.  How am I supposed declutter when my clutter is still useful?  I guess I'd better find some way to store them.

I'm trying to incorporate techniques into my sewing that increase the value of my garments.  Mismatched yoke seams at the zipper scream "home made" not "custom made".   This technique has its basis in Claire Shaeffer's "keying a zipper" technique.

I sewed one side of the zipper.  Then I closed the zipper and, on the unsewn side of the zipper, marked with basting the point where the zipper crossed the seam.

I matched the basting to the seam on the other side before sewing that side of the zipper.

When the other side was sewn, the seams matched nearly perfectly.

It was really just that easy!  I don't know why I never used this technique before.


The Blouse:  BSM 08-2011-138

Leave it to Burda to make things difficult.  Rather than faced or turned-under slits, Burda has bound slits!  Didn't I just say, not three or four paragraphs ago, I wanted to increase the value of my sewn garments?  Any old pattern company can have faced or turned-under slits.  Even though I seriously considered simplifying the slits, I went ahead and bound them the way Burda said I should.

This blouse has lots of gathering.  I used my new favorite method – pulling up the bobbin thread, pulling out enough bobbin and needle thread to cover the length of the gathered area and zigzagging over the threads.  This makes gathering easier because the threads are stable and secure.  I would have preferred more match points for attaching the neckband to the neckline.

If I'd made a muslin, I would have seen the sleeve bands could have been a little shorter so they fit tighter around my arm.  Oh, well.  Maybe next time.

Finished: BPF FW–11–428

First things first … I owe 100% Polyester an apology.

Poly, I'm sorry I blamed you for the horrible way the collar and yoke looked when I used you to make version 1 of this blouse.  I said some hurtful things when I threw you in the trash.  Some of the fault may have been mine.  I made a mistake adding seam allowances.  Here is what the directions said about seam allowances:  "1.5 cm (5/8") at seams and edges, 1 cm (3/8") on horizontal edges of cut in front piece, on front bands, and on collar attachment seam, 2 cm (3/4") on hem etc, etc, etc."  My mistake was adding two different seam allowances: 3/8" on the collar piece and 5/8" on the blouse front and back yoke neckline edges.  So Poly, I was wrong.  I still prefer natural fibers and I still will avoid sewing you, but it wasn't all your fault.  

I realized my error when the collar of version 2 fit a poorly as version 1.  I checked my pattern pieces and there was a 5/8" seam allowance staring at me.  I trimmed away the excess seam allowance on the blouse, stay stitched and clipped the curves and the collar went on perfectly.  Of course, my itty-bitty mistake on the collar doesn't absolve Polyester of the yoke, but we won't go there.  Poly and I can both blame Burda Style Magazine for the poorly written instructions. Adding a little "s" to "collar attachment seam" might have made all the difference.

And now, on to the blouse ……

BPF FW-11-428
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It all started with that damn polyester. I fell in love the with color and I had to have it. I selected the blouse pattern because it was not what I would normally choose. I started out in love with the polyester fabric color and ended up in love with the blouse design when the poly didn't work out. After the poly was thrown out, I still had to have the blouse. So, I immediately went out to find an alternative fabric. (Thank heaven for JoMar.)

The front gathers and front band were a bit of a challenge.  I had to adjust the gathers to the length of the band, meet the gathered edges to the bottom of the slit, diagonally bast the gathers to the slit opening, then cover the gathers, inside and out, with the front bands.  Of course, the inside and outside bands are not exactly congruent and the inside is a little funky.  If I'd done more basting, it might have looked better.  And if that procedure wasn't enough of a pain, the instructions were written in typical Burda pidgin English and required several readings and visualizations before they made sense to me.

I'm ambivalent about the cuffs.  They were part of the reason I chose to sew this blouse, but I'm not sure I love them now.  If I ever make this blouse again, I'll make a more conventional cuff.

As God Is My Witness………

…… I'll never sew polyester again!

Burda Plus Fashion
Fall/Winter 2011 #428

All I wanted was a blouse.  This blouse really wasn't that difficult.  I read the instructions a few times and understood the construction of that deceptively innocent looking gathering on the front.   My mistake was choosing 100% polyester fabric. When sewing a nice natural fiber like linen or cotton, one only needs a little steam to make the fabric behave.  Natural fibers stretch and ease.  But polyester?  Polyester doesn't stretch or ease.   It's almost impossible to ease a polyester seam.   Steam wasn't enough to shrink the longer seam.  Steam only made it wet.  It took brute force and a wood clapper to even press the seam allowances to one side.  And even then, the results are less than desirable.  I used every method of easing I know and it wasn't enough.  I got the sloppy looking collar and yoke seen below.

Easing would have helped the collar and yoke.

If the polyester were more cooperative,  I could have eased the seams together and those hideous little hiccups would have disappeared.  If I couldn't get a seam like the yoke to look smooth, imagine what the sleeve would have looked like – especially with the added layers of the bands on the shoulder.  I did what any self-respecting person would do.  I gave up.  I wasn't happy with the way the yoke and collar looked and I knew I would never wear the blouse.

As I struggled with an iron, a clapper and brute strength, I felt like Scarlett O'Hara must have felt when she found herself face down in the dirt scarfing down that raw potato.    A little piece of polyester was not going to keep me from having that blouse.  Just like Scarlett, I got up, wiped the dirt off my face, spit out that damn potato and took myself to the store to look for another fabric to use for the blouse.

Finished: Burda Plus Fashion FW-2010-405

BPF FW-2010-405
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My lastest finished project is #405 from the Fall/Winter 2010 issue of Burda Plus Fashion. I can't believe I've had the fabric since last May, PR Weekend in Chicago.  I usually don't let fabric hang around that long.  The fabric is 100% polyester and pressing it really made me appreciate natural fibers.  I had to use lots of steam and a clapper to get the seams to press open.

I thought the print fabric needed some contrast. I was lucky to find the black contrasting fabric at JoAnn. The two fabrics are essentially identical and they work well together. Adding the contrast was easy.  I determined the width and drew a line on the bodice pattern piece (front and back).  Then, I laid tracing paper over the bodice and traced the new contrast band piece.  Next, I added the seam allowance to the band and to the new edge of the bodice and cut out the pieces.  I recommend including a notch for matching the pieces.  An even easier method would have been to draw the line, cut the pattern piece apart and add seam allowances.  The bodice is lined with self fabric rather than faced.

No one would ever notice, but I used a tone-on-tone decorative stitch on the insert.  I took the time to audition several stitch patterns to find one that complimented the print.  I needn't have bothered.   I like a tone-on-tone effect for its subtlety, but this passes subtle and goes right to invisible.

I'm happy with the way this dress turned out.  I glad that decided to add the contrast.  This may end up being a favorite dress.

Pivot and Slide with Side Pocket

I use the pivot and slide method to make pattern adjustments.  When making pants with a side pocket, as 99% of my pants are, I usually ignored the pocket and adjusted only the hip yoke.  I read about a method for handling side pockets in Fitting Finesse (Zieman, 1995).  I missed it because it was hidden in the chapter on skirts.  This method used waxed paper and a tracing wheel to trace three layers of waxed paper at one time.  I couldn't use this method since I don't use waxed paper.  The marks made by the tracing wheel on my tracing paper were barely visible.  But, I realized I needed to adjust all three pieces (pants front, side hip yoke and pocket lining) and I modified the method to suit me.  The important part of this method is what I call "The Master Pattern".

1. Trace pants front master pattern.  Layer hip yoke and pocket lining pattern pieces into position, matching notches and dots.  Trace lines for hip yoke and pocket lining pieces onto the master pattern.  For easy identification of pieces, use a different color for each piece.
 

2.  Make adjustments to hip yoke.  Lay tracing paper over master pattern and trace hip yoke piece and side and waist seams (red).  Mark adjustment point measured distance from side seam.  Pivot to increase and trace new lines.  Be sure to trace side seam and waist line differences (red colored-in sections).

3. Make adjustments to pocket piece.  Lay tracing paper over master pattern again and trace pocket piece and side and waist seams (green).  Mark adjustment point measured distance for side seam.  Pivot to increase and trace all new lines.  Be sure to trace opening edge and waist line differences.

4. Increases appear on front, hip yoke and pocket lining.  Adjustments are made to the center front, center back and side back as usual.

So far, I've only tried this method on paper.  I'm eager to make my next pair of pants so I can try it out.