ZOE LILY BELLE PATTERN CORRECTION PART 2

I warned you I suck at writing patterns. Thank you so much for all your patience and feedback. Recently I was contacted by Laurel who kindly pointed out a mistake in Rnd 18 (of the head) in THIS pattern. After much thought, I THINK the problem is only in the final count of the stitches for that row. It should read (9) and not (12) - I have corrected this in the original pattern. And as I told her, luckily since it's only a doll, we don't need to be precise anyway. The idea is that the head tapered down to a neck. So I leave it up to the maker's discretion on how to handle that row. Just follow your instincts and make it neat. That's what's so great about making amigurumi. There's really no right or wrong - only what you create with your own feeling.

BY THE WAY... you can visit the wonderful blog House Full of Monkeys for some great insight, notes, and suggestions to the Zoe-Belle pattern. I'd take her word over mine. ;)

Thank you everyone for visiting my sad sad blog. And I wish you the best with your hook!

(^_^)

Ami-G

Craftzine's Very First Crochet-Along!

Hi Everyone... I know I've been horribly irresponsible with this site lately. I hope you didn't abandon me thinking that I abandoned you! Certainly not, I've just been gravitating towards more mundane things of late. Boring, but that's life sometimes. So let me try to make it up some by telling you about Craftzine's first crochet along ever! "Gosh, Ami-G, get on the bandwagon, that's old news...geez!" Ok well I'll just remind you then. (^_^).

Yesterday I received a very excited sounding email from Laura at Craftzine about a cute little fuzzy panda ami they'll be sharing with the online community next week. The pattern is contributed by Tamie Snow from Roxycraft who is also the author of Tiny Yarn Animals. Look, it's sooooo cuuuuuute:From what I understand it's a lesson based crochet along partnered with Lion Brand Yarns. The first lesson is next week, Sept 7. Follow this link to Craftzine for more information! Of course, there will be a Flickr group for sharing and discussion. Gosh, how fun! Be sure to help spread the word. I can't wait to see all the finished panda cuties!

(^_^)v

Ami-G

ZOE LILY BELLE PATTERN CORRECTION!

Oh my goodness, please forgive me. I thought that pattern was complete but one of you lovely readers (Celene!) have called to my attention that I have left poor Zoe armless! I did warn I am a horrible pattern writer. *sweat*. Still there's no excuse. Here is the pattern correction (or rather addition!) for her arms. I confess I'm not sure if it's exactly right (I have seemed to misplace the pattern notes for that project) so please PLEASE don't hesistate to let me know if it's wrong. Again I apologize and I hope this didn't cause too much frustration for anyone out there!

Zoe Lily Belle - ARMS

Arm (MAKE 2)

Start with magic ring of 5 ch or however you like to start your spiral/circular shape using 5 ch

Row 2: 2sc in each ch (10)
Row 3: 2sc in first ch, 1 sc in next* five times (15)
Row 4-6: sc in each (in the first sc on row 5 make a cluster – this is the “thumb”. I used a 5sc cluster I think. experiment to your liking)
Row 7: 1 sc in next 3, sc2tog in next* repeat three times (12)
Row 8: sc in each
Row 9: sc in next 5, sc2tog in next sc* repeat (10)
Row 10-11: sc in each
Row 12: switch to shirt color and sc in each.

Bind off leaving long tail for attaching to body.

Note:You can attach the arms whenever you’re ready. I did mine at the end of the project. Whip stitch them to the first row of the shirt, placing them as you see fit. ;) When attaching them, just make sure the thumbs are facing the “right” way; facing forward if you wish for her to seem relaxed with palms toward her sides.

Ok, I hope that makes sense. I will also correct the original posting of the pattern. Thanks again, Celene, for pointing out my error! Everyone cheers for Celene!! (^_^)v

...who will no longer remain nameless...

How many here remember my little doll "Nameless"? Show of hands?

*crickets*

Ok, I know it's been a long time. I'm ashamed to say that it's been since February that I've done anything with this doll. And I've posted so little since then that I believe you can still see the post we're talking about if you just scroll down a bit on the main page. *shaaaaaaame* (-_-)''

Some of you were even so nice to respond to that post with very cute names for my poor doll. It's only since yesterday that I've finally decided to name her:

Zoe Lily-Belle!

I'm not that crazy about the "Belle" part but somehow it just seemed to fit. So without further ado, here is the pattern that I wrote for her way back then (look at what healthy guilt trips can get ya!). I made it as a pdf document but as I don't have a place to share those types of files at the moment I'm just going to have to cram it all here on this post! woohoooooo!! *cram cram cram* It's all ugly now, too. It was so much prettier in pdf format. *sigh*

It would probably be best if you highlighted the whole thing and pasted it into some kind of word document. That way you can save it to your computer and print it out for writing on or cussing at or tearing up or... or...

Oh, and by the way, if you leave comments with questions be sure to leave some way for me to contact you! I sometimes try to answer them in the comment section or by writing a new entry, so check back. But give me some time. And if I NEVER answer ... well... then I just don't, do I? Sorry.(^-^)*

Exclusive Original AmigurumiGirl Pattern - Free Free Free Free Free Woot!
(I love the word "free"!)

DISCLAIMER: or maybe REMINDER: I suck at pattern writing. Please please keep this in mind as you do this pattern. There are mistakes. I've corrected some. And others are probably better left alone. Use this as a guideline and let your inner creativity lead the way. You'll be fine. Any little "mistakes" can be looked as your own added charm. Good luck!

PS- for further insight and notes on this pattern from a completely unbiased source please check out House Full of Monkeys. I think her post will help you a lot with this pattern.

Zoe Lily-Belle

Materials:

Hook size D - 3.0mm
Tapestry needle

Black safety eyes (Darice Solid Black 12mm)

Yarn Color A – beige (“skin”)
Yarn Color B – leaf green (shirt)
Yarn Color C – chocolate brown (skirt and shoes)
Yarn Color D – white (underpants)
Yarn Color E – wine (hair)

Note: I used Red Heart Soft Yarn – medium worsted, Red Heart Sport in white, and a mystery double knit in beige for this project (sorry there was no label on the skein). Although next time I’d choose something much more light weight for the hair I think.

Embroidery thread – black
Embellishments – beads, ribbons, etc (although I didn’t use any this time around I have some ideas...)


Stitch notes:

Magic ring – this is a neat way to start crocheting in the round that offers a tight closed hole in the center. You can find a visual tutorial at PlanetJune . Lots of good stuff there in fact so be sure to go poke around!

Bobble Stitch – work 5 hdc into 1 sc (the number 5 is really “adjustable”. You can do less for a smaller nose or more for a really good sized honker. You can also use dc instead of hdc. Experiment to get the look you want.)

Hook the yarn through (in hair section) - by this I mean fold your piece of yarn in half. Stick your hook into one sc and out another. Hook the folded yarn and pull it through. Then reach through the loop you’ve created and pull through the ends of the yarn piece. Pull taught.


Beginning at the top of the head:

Using Color A
Start with magic ring of 6 sc (this is my preferred way to start working in rounds but you can use whatever way you’re comfortable with)

Rnd 1: 2sc in each sc (12)
Rnd 2: 1 sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in each next 2 scs, 2sc in next sc * repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each next 3 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in each next 4 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in each next 5 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (42)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in each next 6 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (48)
Rnd 8-10: 1 sc in each sc – 3 rows even of 48 each
Rnd 11: 1 sc in each sc - somewhere (anywhere, really, but preferably not too close to the beginning or the end) in this round work one bobble stitch for a nose
Rnd 12: 1sc in each sc (48)
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each next 6 scs, 2sctog * repeat 6 times (42)
Rnd 14: 1 sc in each next 5 scs, 2sctog* repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 15: 1 sc in each next 4 scs, 2sctog* repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 16: 1 sc in each next 3 scs, 2sctog* repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 17: 1 sc in each next 2 scs, 2sctog* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 18: 2 sctog* repeat 6 times (9) - originally I got 12 as the final count which I'm sure it should be but how it got there I can't remember... 1 sc, 2sctog repeat 6 times? prehaps.

Switch to Color B (optional: work one row of slip stitches – this is an uncounted row and purely to make the switch look neater. If you don’t want to do it you really don’t have to, but I do say it does lend a nice finished look to your work.) Here we are at the neck and the top of the shirt/dress.

Note:
Rnd 19 is worked behind the row of slip stitches into color A of Rnd 17

Rnd 19: 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next* repeat 6 times (18)

At this point you may want to stop and put the eyes in. Place them on Rnd 11 spaced evenly apart from the cluster you made for the nose. This would also be a good time to embroider in the eyelashes and eyebrows and/or any other facial features you’d like. Stuff the head firmly.

Rnd 20: 1 sc in each next 2 scs, 2sctog* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 21-24: 1 sc in each sc - 4 rows even of 24 each

Switch to Color C Work one row of slip stitches (optional again – see previous note). This begins the skirt.

Note:
Rnd 25 is worked behind the row of slip stitches into the front loops only of color B in row 24. We are working into the front loops only here because we are going to come back with Color D and work into the back loops later. Depending on your tension while you crochet this can be a bit tight, but it can be done! Persevere!

Skirt

Rnd 25: in front loops only work 1 sc in each next 3 scs, 2sc in next* repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 26: 1 sc in each next 4 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 27: 1 sc in each sc (work more even rnds for a longer skirt if you like!)
Rnd 28: skirt edge – 1 slst in first sc, 1 slst, 1hdc, 1 slst in next sc, 1 slst in next sc* repeat to end.
BO weave in end.

Switch to Color D

Going back to Rnd 24 into the back loops work 1 sc in each sc (30)
Rnd 25a: 1 sc in each sc (30)
Rnd 26a-27a: see note

26a: 1 sc in each (15)
27a: 1 sc in each (15)

Work a round of slip stitch. Switch to Color A.

Note: you need to eyeball things here. You are going to work sc until you get to the middle front of your doll. At this point you are going to put your hook through two scs at one time; the one you are on and counting to 15 stitches after that, therefore pinching the front and back together in the center with one sc. You should now have two “circles” of 15 sc each (hello leg!). Continue working 1 sc in each around then work one row of slip stitches. This is one leg of the shorts/underpants. Make a super long tail and pull it through that center sc you made earlier. You can use this tail to finish the other side of the pants later. Or, if you prefer, you can BO and pick up new yarn later on. Confused yet? Whew.

Legs

Rnd 28a: with Color A work in round 27a behind slip stitch row. 1 sc in each (15)
Rnd 29a-33a: 1 sc in each – 5 even rows of 15

Bind off.

Pick up Color D at Rnd 26a work 2 even rounds of 15 each. Work an uncounted round of slip stitches and proceed with leg 2 as done for leg 1. Bind off.

Shoes

Using Color C
Start with magic ring of 5 sc

Rnd 1: 2sc in each sc (10)
Rnd 2: 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat 5 times (15)
Rnd 3: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), skip one sc, 1 hdc in each sc after that, join last hdc to ch 2 with slst
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each hdc (15)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in each sc (15)

Bind off leaving a looooong tail for whip stitching shoe to leg.

Stuff the leg firmly. Stuff the shoe a little bit - just enough that you can still handle stitching the pieces together. You can stuff the leg/shoe more after you’ve stitched the shoe on part way. And then after stuffing to your satisfaction, finish attaching the shoe.

Attaching the shoe: whip stitch shoe to leg. Then wind the remaining length around the joining edge twice. On the first pass I stitch the yarn in at the half way pt, just for some stabilizing, then continue around to finish that round. On completion of the second round simply stitch the end in securely.

Arm (MAKE 2)

Start with magic ring of 5 ch or however you like to start your spiral/circular shape using 5 ch

Row 2: 2sc in each ch (10)
Row 3: 2sc in first ch, 1 sc in next* five times (15)
Row 4-6: sc in each (in the first sc on row 5 make a cluster – this is the “thumb”. I used a 5sc cluster I think. experiment to your liking)
Row 7: 1 sc in next 3, sc2tog in next* repeat three times (12)
Row 8: sc in each
Row 9: sc in next 5, sc2tog in next sc* repeat (10)
Row 10-11: sc in each
Row 12: switch to shirt color and sc in each.

Bind off leaving long tail for attaching to body.

Note:You can attach the arms whenever you’re ready. I did mine at the end. Whip stitch them to the first row of the shirt, placing them as you see fit. ;) When attaching them, just make sure the thumbs are facing the “right” way; facing forward if you wish for her to seem relaxed with palms toward her sides.

Hair

Making a hair cap...

Same process as making the head, just stop halfway. Since I used a yarn that was a little heavier for the hair than what I used to the head itself, my figures might seem ... strange. If you’re using the same yarn throughout the project then your cap should be “bigger” than your head. You’ll see here my numbers seem to stop at a smaller point, but it works for me because of the yarn and change in hook size.

Using hook size E - 3.5mm

Start with magic ring of 6 sc
Rnd 1: 2sc in each sc (12)
Rnd 2: 1 sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in each next 2 scs, 2sc in next sc * repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each next 3 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in each next 4 scs, 2sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 6-7: work even rounds 36 each round

Bind off leaving long tail for attaching to head.

Place the cap on the head at a tilt with the back edge dipping down closer to the neck line. Once it’s positioned as you like attach it lightly to the head. Now comes the fun part. Cut equal lengths of yarn, I did about 5 inches (I think??). Cut a lot. Depending on the style you’re going to do this number will vary. Now simply hook the yarn through scs throughout the cap. You don’t have to hook through every sc. I did about two scs apart and staggered. At the top of the head you’ll have to experiment and see what works best; thinking about how real hair grows. After all the yarn you want is put in, style it!


Creator’s Notes:

Well, I hope this was decipherable. If you use it as a loose guideline and let your own creative juices flow, I’m sure you’ll have success and an original doll of your own! Remember to just have fun!

In retrospect I should’ve taken more in-progress photos. I’m sure a lot of my directions are mind boggling. (@_@)’

I’m happy if you make these dolls for gift giving or sharing with friends. However, I ask that you please do not duplicate this pattern or make the dolls to sell for personal profit. If you are interested in using it for charity or some special event, I’d love to hear about it. Please contact me at amigurumigirl@gmail.com and I’ll try my best to help. (^_^) Thank you! *whew*

Pears, pears, everywhere...

My friend - the birthday girl I spoke of - likes pears and cows.

Not sure where I got this idea from. It just flowed out of the pencils... I don't think this will become an amigurumi anytime soon.

SURPRISE! FREE PATTERN

(hope it makes sense... I suck at pattern writing, remember? Good luck!)

3.5mm/E hook
Red Heart Soft Yarn – worsted med Leaf (pear body)
Red Heart Soft Yarn – worsted med Chocolate (stem)
Bernat Satin Soft – taupe (leaf)
Black embroidery thread
Bright pink dk yarn scraps
Polyfill
Buttons

Finished pear approx 4” tall including stem and 6.5” around widest part of body

Body (starting from top of pear)
Start with “magic ring” - 6
2 sc in each – 12
1 sc in first, 2sc in next sc* repeat – 18
1 sc in each – 18 * repeat this round two more times
1 sc in first, 1 sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat – 24
1 sc in first, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat – 30
1 sc in each sc – 30 * repeat this round six more times
1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog * repeat – 24

( at this point or soon after you may want to stop and make the stem and attach it. same with putting on the eyes and stitched details. Then stuff it and proceed to decrease. Up to you but I thought it was easier that way.)

1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog * repeat -18
1 sc in first sc, sc2tog * repeat – 12
Sc2tog – 6
Tie off, weave in.

Stem
Ch 7
Sc in second chain from hook
Sc in each
Bind off

Sew onto top of pear

Leaf
Ch 6
Sc in second chain from hook
Sc im first, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in ch 1 of foundation.
Bind off, sew to top of pear

Patterns Coming Soon...

There have been a small number of you... nagging me about some patterns =D. However, 1) I'm so busy making things I hardly have time to write down the pattern, 2) I'm horrible at writing patterns. Therefore, I will try to post pieces of patterns that might help guide you to making your own creations. You're probably thinking, "Shoot! I can find these anywhere!" And you'd be right, but still, one more post on the internet won't hurt. tee hee You can already get an idea of the standard I use for head and body from my Mr. Frog pattern. So today's PatternPost is for standard arm/leg for something like Amineko. Enjoy!

Arms:
This can be done in two different colored yarns to give the look of paws or not. Choose your hook size to correspond to your yarn. This will greatly effect the finished product size.

Frame/row 1: ch 2. in second ch from hook 6sc
Row 2: 2sc every sc (12)
Row 3-6: work even
At this pt can change yarns or anywhere further up the “arm” to give “socked” look. Or just one stripe… or whatever! Anything! Woohooo
Row 7: 1sc, sc2tog in next sc* repeat until 8 (stop and stuff the paw!! Keep stuffing up along the arm just a tad as you go)
Row 8-28 (approximately): work even
I work the arms as long as needed. I measure them up to the body letting the “wrist” fall about where the bottom of the body is.

Fasten off. Leave tail long enough for attaching to body.

Here is a sample of some arms I'm making for another Roadkill Kitty bag. It's a straight version of the amineko pattern - there is no decrease at the paw line. Also there is another change of color near the "shoulder" because Roadkill has a red t-shirt on. hehe You'll also notice how short these look. I've made them to suit Roadkill's body so they are only about 14 rows.

I'm really a horrible pattern writter. I dont know why. I think it's because I get confused with knitting (although I'm a horrible knitter haha). I hope you can understand what I've written or at least glean something from it. The legs are done in similar fashion to the arms. They begin just like the arms with 6sc then 12sc, however at this pt you add another row to 18sc (ch1, 2sc in next ch* repeat to 18) before you work even the 4 rows. And then you go back ( ch1, sc2tog* rep to 12; ch 3, sc2tog* twice will make 10) to 10sc to make the leg. Confusing? Sorry. This pattern can be adjusted to suit any size/type amigurumi. Experiment with yarn and hook size too.

Maybe I'll have an actual full pattern for something soon. Have fun! Oh, and don't forget to share your creations! I'd love to see them. Leave me a comment with a link or join up with Amigurumi-Along! (^_^)v

Amineko pattern posted AND in English! =D

For all of you who've been asking for the Amineko pattern, Sarah Jane at Ramblings in a Little Black Dress has posted her translation of it. It's slightly different than the one I use but I'm sure it'll produce the same results (probably even better since I bet hers is more true to the original). So for all you hungry amigurumi-ists swing on over to Lil' Black dress and have fun!! Thanks, Sarah!

note: For some reason, the most recent blog entries sometime gets its text messed up... If an entry looks strangely incomplete try highlighting the text area or scrolling up and down. sigh. darn technology (or maybe in this case, dummy user -me). (-_-)oO

Mr. Frog Pattern! Well... if you can call it that.

I finally got around to writing down the pattern for Mr. Frog! I hope that it's understandable and I hope it's correct! hahaha I couldn't really remember how I'd made Mr. Frog so I was staring at him and trying to count stitches the whole time whilst typing the pattern. hee hee If you've made Aminekos you shouldn't have any problems making Mr. Frog. Have fun with it. Try different yarns! Change the hook size! Do bells for his feet! Googly eyes instead of buttons! I don't know. Go for it! And then be sure to let me know how it goes. (^_^)v

Loose guidelines for how I made Mr. Frog…

disclaimer: I hate to have to add this but please don't sell this pattern or try anything ... I don't know, like that. I gladly share my "knowledge" and hope you respect me for it, but I hate being taken advantage of. (^_^)v

Loose guidelines for how I made Mr. Froggy…

Hook 3.0mm/D
Green sport weight/double knitting yarn
Red (or black or any!) yarn for mouth
White felt (depending on the quality of your felt you might have to double up so it will look whiter)
Two black buttons – small
4 wooden beads – your choice
Poly-fill

Head:
Foundation: Ch 2. In second chain from hook make 6 sc.

Row 1: 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 2: Sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat until 18
Row 3: Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, 2sc in third sc* repeat until 24
Row 4: Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc in third sc, 2sc in fourth sc* repeat until 30
Row 5-9: work even
Row 10: Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc in third sc, sc 2 tog * repeat until 24
Row 11: sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc 2 tog * repeat until 18
Row 12: sc in first sc, sc 2 tog * repeat until 12

Fasten off. Weave in end. Stuff. Sew on mouth with red yarn.

Eyes:
Foundation: Ch 2. In second chain from hook make 6 sc.

Row 1: sc 2 in each sc (12)
Row 2-4: work even
Fasten off. Stuff. Attach to head.


Body:
Foundation: Ch 2. In second chain from hook make 6sc.

Row 1: sc 2 in each sc (12)
Row 2: Sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat until 18
Row 3-9: work even
Row 10: sc in first sc, sc 2 tog* repeat until 12
Row 11-12: work even

Fasten off. Leave long end for attaching body to head. Stuff.

Arms/Legs:
String on beads or whatever you want to use for hands/feet. I used two different sizes of wooden beads. Small rounds for the hands and larger square for the feet.

Chain to the length that you want! I think I did 11 for the arms and 13 for the legs.
Turn and sc in each ch (10 for arms 12 for legs) push a bead up flush to your work
Turn slip stitch in each sc. Fasten off.

I left a long end and weaved it in all the way up the arm and used it to attach it to the body. I found this made a nice “backbone” for the arm and helped give it a pleasing curve. But you’ll really have to experiment and find what you like.

Details:

White felt cut out in rounds (my felt was cheap. I had to make two layers for each eyeball). I sewed black plastic buttons to it and then the whole thing got sewn onto the eye orb. A little dab of glue wouldn’t hurt to help hold it into place either. Or instead of buttons why not glue on those googly eyes? I dunno…

personal note: I’ve been stuffing all my amigurumi with just poly-fill no pellets. But of course, that’s up to you. Putting some pellets in the the bottom two-thirds of the Frog’s body might give it a more stable weight for sitting. Although, I haven’t had much problems with just the poly-fill.

Have fun!

pps~ I worked this pattern in continuous rounds - no slip stitching between rows, however if that's what makes you comfortable you certainly can do it that way! The continuous rounds give you a more spiral effect. In such a small project and with no color changes, though, this doesn't effect the results much. (^_^)v